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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Sep 23, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
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In the East we spell it Nazi.Nice shot Rich.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Sep 23, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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After climbing on doubles for 10 years in the Gunks and then climbing with a single for the past 15 years in the Gunks, I was just thinking about going back to doubles. I like doubles when climbing with a good, organized partner. However, there are some partners which I would avoid using doubles with. One of these unorganized guys could get tangled in a tire swing.
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ps
climber
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Sep 23, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
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Seems like doubles/halves and twins are a lot more of a cluster. At least that's why I'd go with a single line.
Lots of alpinists seem to be going with a single 9.2mm or so lead line, and a pull cord of ~6mm that they leave in a pack until they need if for rapping.
I'd rather stick with a single lead line just for the ease of rope management.
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perswig
climber
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Sep 23, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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"One of these unorganized guys could get tangled in a tire swing."
Have we met?
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 23, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Richross beat me to it, but I thought this thread needed a picture or two:
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tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
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Sep 23, 2010 - 04:41pm PT
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Nutjob has the right idea. My first ice lead of the season (2 winters ago)
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Sep 23, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
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Yo!
Double ropes... The BOMB!!... sometimes...
sometimes... not so much.
If yer haven a cluster bumble... yer not doing in right... imo.
Skinnies + reversos... Hell yeah! Tell me it ain't slick, Ga-head!!
BTW I live and climb in "the western world"
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 23, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
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Why don't you guys use toothbrushes?
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richross
Trad climber
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Sep 23, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
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Whip it good!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 23, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
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A selection of previously posted photos
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 23, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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technically speaking indeed
no reason for 2 ropes in any of those photos
just use some runners
mammut has the 70m 8.9 single rope now... still above 8kN
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Sep 23, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
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Snow... remember... rapping off could be a reason... darn good one at that amigo!
Suppose you could always trail a rope instead...
wait a minute........
Naaaaaaaa! That would suuuck!!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 24, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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or you could have a tiny diameter pull line for single rope rap- but your point is taken
rapped the sunspot on the hulk in 6 raps with an 80m just a few weeks ago- no knot to get tangled up with stuff- very sweet
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 24, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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Two ropes won't fit into my gri-gri...
dude, you're just not using small enough ropes. Try a pair of 4mm ropes. Bet you could get them in your GG
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 24, 2010 - 01:51am PT
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The Swedes are passed masters of double rope technique...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 24, 2010 - 02:52am PT
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That is a disturbing image Reilly. Are any of those climbers still alive?
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Sep 24, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
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I wouldn't say that none of those photos show any benefit for double ropes (for the going up), but it is only one or two with the rest not showing any benefit.
Is it my imagination (and longing for the good old days that didn't really exist) or do the modern, skinny ropes twist more than ropes of lore?
BITD being a clueless newbie doing all my climbing on a heavy 11m, I don't remember much problems with tangles. Now, despite 20 years experience, and extreme care--since twisted ropes are a rant of mine; I know to be careful uncoiling the rope, not twisting the rope when belaying, rapping, etc. and whatnot--the ropes appear to twist when weighted (sometimes just from rope drag) and then untwist when unweighted. Some ropes (brands? models? luck of the draw?) seem a little better or worse, but most annoy me at some point.
So, for those of you who profess love of double ropes and patronize those of us who claim to find them unwieldy (and its not lack of experience--I climbed on doubles for 3 straight years)... with double ropes at a hanging belay, are you stuffing both ropes into a rope bag, flaking them back and forth on a sling (like I would with a single) or avoiding climbs with hanging belays (or some other magical rope technique)? If flaking both ropes on a sling, the ropes are never so twisty that you aren't fighting to get them through the belay device without slowing the leader? Or perhaps you only use them on superhard climbs and never have to worry about a leader on easy terrain who is climbing a 100 feet in a matter of minutes?
Inquiring trolls want to know...
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Sep 24, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
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Aug,
Uuuuuummm ...yeah
pretty much I just grab the ropes, the reverso,
And go climbing.
I treat the ropes at any belay, kinda as if they were one... together... or something ... sometimes they twist, and stuff. sometimes they don't.
Hope this helps.
A.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Sep 24, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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Single rope technique in all its glory (Italy):
Too funny...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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