Where do these routes go?

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Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 20, 2010 - 12:30pm PT

This might be a lame post but I can't figure this out...

Can anyone tell me where these routes go in the Lost Arrow Area?

This is not a contest... just trying to clear up my knowledge of the wall.

Dante's Inferno (VI 5.9 A3+) - FA Eric Kohl solo - Left of LA Chimney? June 1989

Satanic Ritual Abuse (VI PDK) - FA Eric Kohl solo - Right of LA Chimney? June 2001

Max-Ex (VI 5.11b A?) - FA Eric Kohl and Bryan Law - Right of LA Direct and ABC Route? July 2003

Bridwell Route (VI ?) - FA Jim Bridwell and Brian McCray - Right of LA Direct and ABC Route? Oct 2002

And what about Reckless Abandon... IS that up there somewhere?

Eric Kohl (Klaus on ST... I believe) is a hard ass solo climber! That boy has covered some stone!

Here is a pic with known starts for reference:

PURPLE = LA Chimney
LIGHT GREEN = LA Direct
LIGHT BLUE = ABC Route
ORANGE = Yosemite Pointless
DARK GREEN = Rainbow

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2010 - 12:32pm PT

Well Locker, that says more than the way Growing Up went...

Banquo

Trad climber

Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)

Sep 21, 2010 - 10:31pm PT

Exchange with Walt, who has refused to climb with me for 15 years now:

Look at the topo, where am I?
Off route!
Which way do I go?
Up.

Since that day I have always assumed I am off route and should, generally, go up.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

Green Cove slabbage BITD!

Sep 21, 2010 - 11:41pm PT

Dante's [Disco?] Inferno begins in the LA Chimney and proceeds up a smutty black streak out left. Not the finest line out there.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Sep 22, 2010 - 03:02am PT

> Dante's Inferno (VI 5.9 A3+) - FA Eric Kohl solo - Left of LA Chimney? June 1989

As Rob mentioned, starts in the LA Chimney and then goes up (left of the chim).

> Satanic Ritual Abuse (VI PDK) - FA Eric Kohl solo - Right of LA Chimney? June 2001

No, it's west of Yosemite Falls.

> Max-Ex (VI 5.11b A?) - FA Eric Kohl and Bryan Law - Right of LA Direct and ABC Route? July 2003

Don't know.

> Bridwell Route (VI ?) - FA Jim Bridwell and Brian McCray - Right of LA Direct and ABC Route? Oct 2002

Don't know.

> And what about Reckless Abandon... IS that up there somewhere?

Yes - on the far right side. There is a topo in the Don Reid Big Walls guidebook.

Here are the routes in order L to R, as far as I understand:

Upper Yosemite Falls - West

1293. Reign in Blood, PDK, AAJ2003
1294. Satanic Ritual Abuse, U
1295. Witching Hour, PDK, AAJ2004

[Yosemite Falls goes here]

Upper Yosemite Falls - East (starting on right side of falls)

1460. Easy's Playhouse, F
1461. Bitch's Galore, F
1462. Dark Cloud, F
1463. Eight Ball Slippin', F
1464. Easy-Duz-It, F
1465. Whipping Post, F

1466. Via Sin Agua 5.10 A2, 9p, Ro, AAJ1988
1467. Waterfall Wall A4, 11p, up dry path of falls, AAJ1988
1468. Via Sin Liquor 5.9 A4, 12p, B
1469. Miscreant Wall 5.9 A4, 8p, M
1470. Misty Wall 5.11d A0, 17p
1471. Escape from Tora Bora 5.9 A2, 16p, LFC crosses Summerland, ElectricOc to L
1472. Electric Ocean 5.10 A4, 12p, start R of MW 3p, join MW 1p, 4p, cross MW, B
1473. Summerland 5.8 A3, VI, 12p, start EO 3p, join MW 3p, R/new 3p, rejoin EO, Ob
1474. L'Appat 5.13a, 12p, crosses Summerland and Reckless Abandon
1475. Clusterf*#k 2000 5.10 A3+, AAJ1998
1476. Reckless Abandon 5.8 A4+, 12p, B

Geek Towers

1477. Freestone 5.11c ***, 8p, aka Geek Towers Left
1478. Hurricane Jingus 5.9 A4, 9p, between Freestone & Geek Center 5p, 4p to rim, Ob
1479. Geek Towers - Center Route 5.10a, 6p
1480. Aqua Vulva 5.10 A4, 10p, between Geek Right & LA Chim, aka Route 66, B
1481. Geek Towers - Right Side 5.10a A2, 9p
1482. Dante's Inferno 5.9 A3+, 12p, starts on LA Chimney, then L, B

Lost Arrow

1483. Lost Arrow Chimney 5.10a, 10p
1484. Lost Arrow Tip 5.12b or 5.8 C2 **, 2p
1485. Lost Arrow Notch Exit 5.10d, 3p
1486. Lost Arrow Direct 5.9 A3, 14p, M
1487. ABC Route 5.11, 16p, MR
1488. Tee-Hee-Neh's Lament, 2 150' bolt ladders up high
1489. Blade Runner 5.11d, 5p
1490. Yosemite Pointless 5.9 A3, 10p, MR

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Sep 22, 2010 - 03:21am PT

Clint, where is wheel of torture and world of pain relative to the other Klaus routes?

On the Bridwell route. looks like we got ourselves a mystery. nice. paging Gordo Mr. McCray!

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Sep 22, 2010 - 04:03am PT

Rob,

Those routes west of the falls I previously listed start are just some of the climbs west of the falls. I don't seem to have listed exactly where they start....

The other routes you mentioned start at the bottom of the wall (west of the falls). There are topos for them in Don Reid's Big Walls guidebook.

Upper Yosemite Falls - West - bottom of wall (left of falls)

1272. Brush Off 5.9, 2p, right of trail, M

1273. Razor Train, F
1274. Hole Train, F
1275. Taste Buds, F
1276. Shift City, F
1277. White Rain, F
1278. Peril Drops, F

1279. In Justice for All, 10p?, VI, Ob
1280. Wheel of Torture 5.7 A4, 10p, B
1281. World of Pain 5.8 A5, 13p, B

Yosemite Falls Trail - Upper

1282. Taboo Treat 5.9, M
1283. Forbidden Pinnacle 5.10a, 2p, M
1284. Forbidden Pinnacle Continuation, F
1285. Forbidden Wall, listed in FA section of Big Walls 1996
1286. Mindahoonee Wall 5.11a **, 5p

Upper Yosemite Falls - West - ledge on upper wall

1287. AquaChossy 5.9 C1, 3p, starts L of Aquamist and joins it
1288. Aquamist 5.6, M
1289. Via Aqua 5.7, M

1290. Puke Ledge, F
1291. Spray Fest, F
1292. Slut Wagon, F

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Sep 22, 2010 - 04:10am PT

got it, thx!

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Sep 22, 2010 - 12:32pm PT

Hurricane Jingus and Clusterf*#k 2000 are the same route – say it all together and that’s the full route name. It’s to the right of Reckless Abandon. Reckless Abandon goes between Summerland and Hurricane Jingus, in the middle of the wall and just right of the falls (left of LA).

Max-Ex starts on Blade Runner, and shares some of Yosemite Pointless and Rainbow. I think we joined part of the Bridwell/McCray route but am not sure as to what/how much new stuff those guys did up there. It’s not the best part of the wall…

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Sep 22, 2010 - 02:16pm PT

Thanks for straightening it out, Bryan - here's a cleaned up list.

Upper Yosemite Falls - West - bottom of wall (left of falls)

1272. Brush Off 5.9, 2p, right of trail, M

1273. Razor Train, F
1274. Hole Train, F
1275. Taste Buds, F
1276. Shift City, F
1277. White Rain, F
1278. Peril Drops, F

1279. In Justice for All, 10p?, VI, Ob
1280. Wheel of Torture 5.7 A4, 10p, B
1281. World of Pain 5.8 A5, 13p, B

Yosemite Falls Trail - Upper

1282. Taboo Treat 5.9, M
1283. Forbidden Pinnacle 5.10a, 2p, M
1284. Forbidden Pinnacle Continuation, F
1285. Forbidden Wall, listed in FA section of Big Walls 1996
1286. Mindahoonee Wall 5.11a **, 5p

Upper Yosemite Falls - West - ledge on upper wall

1287. AquaChossy 5.9 C1, 3p, starts L of Aquamist and joins it
1288. Aquamist 5.6, M
1289. Via Aqua 5.7, M

1290. Puke Ledge, F
1291. Spray Fest, F
1292. Slut Wagon, F

Upper Yosemite Falls - West

1293. Reign in Blood, PDK, AAJ2003
1294. Satanic Ritual Abuse, U
1295. Witching Hour, PDK, AAJ2004

[Yosemite Falls goes here]

Upper Yosemite Falls - East (starting on right side of falls)

1460. Easy's Playhouse, F
1461. Bitch's Galore, F
1462. Dark Cloud, F
1463. Eight Ball Slippin', F
1464. Easy-Duz-It, F
1465. Whipping Post, F

1466. Via Sin Agua 5.10 A2, 9p, Ro, AAJ1988
1467. Waterfall Wall A4, 11p, up dry path of falls, AAJ1988
1468. Via Sin Liquor 5.9 A4, 12p, B
1469. Miscreant Wall 5.9 A4, 8p, M
1470. Misty Wall 5.11d A0, 17p
1471. Escape from Tora Bora 5.9 A2, 16p, LFC crosses Summerland, ElectricOc to L
1472. Electric Ocean 5.10 A4, 12p, start R of MW 3p, join MW 1p, 4p, cross MW, B
1473. Summerland 5.8 A3, VI, 12p, start EO 3p, join MW 3p, R/new 3p, rejoin EO, Ob
1474. L'Appat 5.13a, 12p, crosses Summerland and Reckless Abandon
1475. Reckless Abandon 5.8 A4+, 12p, between Summerland and Hurricane Jingus, B

Geek Towers

1476. Freestone 5.11c ***, 8p, aka Geek Towers Left
1477. Hurricane Jingus Clusterf*#k 2000 5.9 A4, 9p, between Freestone & Geek Center 5p, 4p to rim, AAJ1998, Ob
1478. Geek Towers - Center Route 5.10a, 6p
1479. Aqua Vulva 5.10 A4, 10p, between Geek Right & LA Chim, aka Route 66, B
1480. Geek Towers - Right Side 5.10a A2, 9p
1481. Dante's Inferno 5.9 A3+, 12p, starts on LA Chimney, then L, B

Lost Arrow

1482. Lost Arrow Chimney 5.10a, 10p
1483. Lost Arrow Tip 5.12b or 5.8 C2 **, 2p
1484. Lost Arrow Notch Exit 5.10d, 3p
1485. Lost Arrow Direct 5.9 A3, 14p, M
1486. ABC Route 5.11, 16p, MR
1487. Tee-Hee-Neh's Lament, 2 150' bolt ladders up high
1488. Blade Runner 5.11d, 5p
1489. Max-Ex 5.11b A?, starts on Blade Runner, shares some of Yosemite Pointless
and Rainbow, not the best part of the wall, YW, ST
1490. Bridwell-McCray, nearby, YW, ST
1491. Yosemite Pointless 5.9 A3, 10p, MR

Yosemite Point

1492. Rainbow 5.10 A3, 13p, MR
1493. Seand Paradise, F
1494. Yosemite Point - Czech Route 5.10 A1, 13p, M
1495. East of Paradise, F
1496. Yosemite Point Buttress - Direct 5.9, 14p
1497. Yosemite Point Buttress 5.9, 14p
1498. Yosemite Point Buttress - original FFA 5.9, L of Sacherer FFA line, Ro
1499. Yosemite Point Buttress - Pedestal right side 5.7, exceedingly rotten, Ro
1500. Yosemite Point - Southeast Face 5.9 A3
1501. Min-Ne-Ah 5.11d, 11p, free version of Yosemite Point Southeast Face
1502. Yosemite Point Couloir 5.7, Ro
1503. Castle Cliffs 4th, Ro