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Messages 41 - 60 of total 60 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Sep 20, 2010 - 01:07am PT
These had nice foam insulation. Used them in the snow and ice many times.

Okay for climbing. Edging was about it until the vibram wore down. Friction shoes are way better.

Bought those nuts from Fritz in about '74.
gf

climber
Sep 20, 2010 - 01:33am PT
Ghost,
I happen to know that Tami has a couple shots of don climbing "Foot in the Gravy" with chouinard rigids if memory serves. Tami -to the scanner lass!
gf
utahman912

Social climber
SLC, UT
Sep 20, 2010 - 11:55am PT
I think you can tell a climber who has been trained in either boots or an exceptionally stiff shoe: they are very precise in their footwork! It becomes ingrained in their style, and it's always impressive to see a real master.

Very true... pulling up and then searching for a foot placement to stay on the rock nearly always resulted in a fall while wearing boots. Now with rock shoes it just mostly results in a fall :-)

BITD you had to learn the footwork. These days a lot of people think you can get away without it.

jb
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 20, 2010 - 11:59am PT
I really think that there is no relationship between climbing with boots and good footwork. Good climbers use good footwork and mediocre climbers don't- simple as that.
hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside
Sep 21, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
My first boots were Galibier Guides. Climbed in them for a bit, until I got one stuck in a crack, had to unlace the thing, downclimb and yank it out by hand, put it back on and continue.
I climbed in Reeboks for a year or so after that before I got my first pair of rock shoes. (old EB's, complete with holes, traded for a beer.)





(edited to edit! Like my rough draft? Librarian shut me down before I could clean it up. My secret is out.)
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 21, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
JC Penny work boots, $14.99 - couldn't beat it with a stick. That and barefoot in the hollers of SoIll. Eventually we variously got 'blue meanies' (RRs), 'green meanies' (Chouinards), PAs, and then the miraculous EBs.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 21, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
I'll expand on what donini said, good climbers have good footwork and mediocre climbers don't. Agreed! I was simply stating that a climber who learned to climb in boots and got up the routes in good style learned good footwork or simply quit climbing.

Stiffer shoes have always been my choice, as well. I've had old red and black PA's, Robbins Blue Boots, Kletter Spiders, Boreal Ace's, and La Sportiva Mariacher's, and now am sporting a pair of TC Pros and a pair of Tradmasters.
bmacd

Trad climber
Grade V, Level III certified Kook 100% Canadian
Sep 22, 2010 - 02:51am PT
Ghost those custom soled Vasque ascenders are brillant. I did a bunch of climbing in the Bugaboos with mine, sans your resole job. Perhaps the modern equivalent candidate for that kind of resole would be my old pair of red La Sportiva Trangos
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 22, 2010 - 05:12am PT
TheEiger ? Did you ever do us a TR? If not, get crackin'!

And back on topic, from earlier today, it's never too late to find out how to knock boots.
Credit: Jaybro
bmacd

Trad climber
Grade V, Level III certified KooK 100% Canadian
Sep 22, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
Radical Riley sez: And I climbed The Eiger, a mixed 5.7 route in casual off the shelve A-solo hikers

bump for Nordwand TR with pictures ;)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 22, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 23, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug.

Jim, have you forgotten who you're talking about? Probably 99.999% of climbers who were around in the climbing-boot era would have liked sex in a cardboard box.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Sep 27, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
"If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug."

yeah well, better than watching!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Sep 27, 2010 - 08:22pm PT
If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug.

and your problem is?

Use what's available.
You just want to get it over with as soon as possible and find something better next time.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 3, 2010 - 11:09am PT
A Bump in Time Saves Thine...
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Sep 15, 2011 - 12:28am PT
Manly men rock climb in mountaineering boots

Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
Climbing Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, more than 30 years ago
Climbing Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, more than 30 years ago
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Try this in mountaineering boots
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, over 30 years ago
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, over 30 years ago
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 15, 2011 - 01:44am PT
Rooskies were still going to the Pamirs in tricounis in the late 70's!
GNARLY!
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Sep 15, 2011 - 08:26am PT
Royal and I used Spiders for a long time for the very reasons
Peter described, good edging, good in off-widths...

In about '65, I was bouldering at Split Rocks. A fellow came along,
trying to think of his name (I want to say Lee Herrell?). He
had some type of lightweight mountaineering boots. I was amazed
at how well he bouldered and how good he was with his feet.
He said he had done a lot of climbing in the Alps and that
the good climbers there could climb as well in boots as most
more pure rock climbers could in tight rock shoes. I tended
to believe him, when I saw him climb. He noted, however, that
it was absolutely vital to get the right boot, that most didn't
work too well, but one or two kinds were amazing. Seeing photos
of people such as Rebuffat and Bonatti with their boots, I began
to believe they weren't at too much of a disadvantage, and what
with their supreme techniue. The "good" mountain rock boot were
"flush" where the rubber meets the leather tops. I.E., the sole
didn't stick out at all....

About this time, Cub Shaefer gave me a pair of lightweight mountain
boots. I can't recall the brand, but I agreed to try them out on
rock. I went up and did the first free ascent of Vertigo. I climbed
right past the 5.11 section, solidly, but higher up on the 5.8
stem dihedral I realized I couldn't stem very well, couldn't smear
out on those sloping walls in those boots. Grabbed a carabiner to
rest and try to figure it out... Whatever... I used those boots
again on a host of climbs, but I really preferred my RD's. Gill and
I bouldered for a long time in RD's. They were vastly better at
edging than EB's. At certain bouldering areas, such as Split Rocks,
you couldn't even stand up on some tiny footholds in EB's, but in
RD's it was an easy step. RD's were a good measure better than Spiders,
for sure, in most respects. But then, and note, they came out with
a new RD that was supposed to be the same boot but actually had a
different, not nearly as good, rubber. Then climbers, rightfully,
started saying RD's weren't very good.... They hadn't used the original
RD's.

My friends Luisa Iovane and Heinz Mariacher have kept me in rich supply
of La Sportiva climbing shoes, for many years, and they friction so
amazingly well, but they still are quite soft compared to my years
with stiffer shoes.... and not very comfortable to the feet. The
feet get tired easily. One thing I've seen, with some of the top
Yosemite stars, is that they climb off-widths with these softer
modern rubber, but they don't heel-and-toe so much. They do more friction
technique along the sides of the walls....
BillL

Trad climber
NM
Sep 15, 2011 - 08:55am PT
Did lots of 4th and easy 5th class in big stiff leathers less than a decade ago. This was the Ptarmigan Traverse in the North Cascades ... a multi-day trip with quite a bit of glacier travel. Bringing extra shoes for climbing wasn't an option and wasn't needed.

On a peak along the way.  Helmet Peak?
On a peak along the way. Helmet Peak?
Credit: BillL

A little smearing and edging in boots a day or so after Helmet Peak.  ...
A little smearing and edging in boots a day or so after Helmet Peak. We did six peaks in six days from 2nd class to 5.7.
Credit: BillL

The boots in no way soured the climbing, to say the least. The technical climbing on this trip inspired me to take a technical climbing course the next spring and start traditional leading about a year after that (~7 years ago).

Bill
steve shea

climber
Sep 15, 2011 - 09:41am PT
Fun, we did not know any better. The five and dime edge route on Blacktail Butte in the Tetons, 5.12, done by Breashears in Haderers or some such in 1978. Also what Peter Haan said amout heavier climbers and the modern soft rubber is so true. It's like driving hard on an old school, non steel belted, low aspect ratio tire. It sucks.
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