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Messages 41 - 60 of total 65 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Sep 19, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
Spider: Thanks for the boot photo.

Those are Galibier Vercors. A great hiking and light mountaineering boot. They look like the Galibier Super-Guide, but didn't have the stiff -sole.

Spider's Galibier Vercors hiking/light mountaineering boots.
Spider's Galibier Vercors hiking/light mountaineering boots.
Credit: Spider Savage

It is the same model of boot that I foolishly trotted up to "The Finger of Fate" with, and then stupidly led the jam-crack with in 1977.

It didn't fit worth a "shet" in the vertical hand-crack.


Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Sep 20, 2010 - 01:07am PT
These had nice foam insulation. Used them in the snow and ice many times.

Okay for climbing. Edging was about it until the vibram wore down. Friction shoes are way better.

Bought those nuts from Fritz in about '74.
gf

climber
Sep 20, 2010 - 01:33am PT
Ghost,
I happen to know that Tami has a couple shots of don climbing "Foot in the Gravy" with chouinard rigids if memory serves. Tami -to the scanner lass!
gf
utahman912

Social climber
SLC, UT
Sep 20, 2010 - 11:55am PT
I think you can tell a climber who has been trained in either boots or an exceptionally stiff shoe: they are very precise in their footwork! It becomes ingrained in their style, and it's always impressive to see a real master.

Very true... pulling up and then searching for a foot placement to stay on the rock nearly always resulted in a fall while wearing boots. Now with rock shoes it just mostly results in a fall :-)

BITD you had to learn the footwork. These days a lot of people think you can get away without it.

jb
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 20, 2010 - 11:59am PT
I really think that there is no relationship between climbing with boots and good footwork. Good climbers use good footwork and mediocre climbers don't- simple as that.
BES1'st

climber
City of Orange, CA.
Sep 21, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
Rick A,
cool photo. Where is his toothbrush?
hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside
Sep 21, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
My first boots were Galibier Guides. Climbed in them for a bit, until I got one stuck in a crack, had to unlace the thing, downclimb and yank it out by hand, put it back on and continue.
I climbed in Reeboks for a year or so after that before I got my first pair of rock shoes. (old EB's, complete with holes, traded for a beer.)





(edited to edit! Like my rough draft? Librarian shut me down before I could clean it up. My secret is out.)
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 21, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
JC Penny work boots, $14.99 - couldn't beat it with a stick. That and barefoot in the hollers of SoIll. Eventually we variously got 'blue meanies' (RRs), 'green meanies' (Chouinards), PAs, and then the miraculous EBs.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 21, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
I'll expand on what donini said, good climbers have good footwork and mediocre climbers don't. Agreed! I was simply stating that a climber who learned to climb in boots and got up the routes in good style learned good footwork or simply quit climbing.

Stiffer shoes have always been my choice, as well. I've had old red and black PA's, Robbins Blue Boots, Kletter Spiders, Boreal Ace's, and La Sportiva Mariacher's, and now am sporting a pair of TC Pros and a pair of Tradmasters.
bmacd

Trad climber
Grade V, Level III certified Kook 100% Canadian
Sep 22, 2010 - 02:51am PT
Ghost those custom soled Vasque ascenders are brillant. I did a bunch of climbing in the Bugaboos with mine, sans your resole job. Perhaps the modern equivalent candidate for that kind of resole would be my old pair of red La Sportiva Trangos
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 22, 2010 - 05:12am PT
TheEiger ? Did you ever do us a TR? If not, get crackin'!

And back on topic, from earlier today, it's never too late to find out how to knock boots.
Credit: Jaybro
bmacd

Trad climber
Grade V, Level III certified KooK 100% Canadian
Sep 22, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
Radical Riley sez: And I climbed The Eiger, a mixed 5.7 route in casual off the shelve A-solo hikers

bump for Nordwand TR with pictures ;)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 22, 2010 - 10:58pm PT
If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug.
BES1'st

climber
City of Orange, CA.
Sep 23, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
mark miller, Stewart Indian school?
Today I was asked by a Indian fellow if I would like a toothbrush?

I met largo at Teflon about 12-13 years after that photo. He was
then wearing Bachars Fires and used the toothbrush on the crux
holds below where he is at in the photo.

If your were asking in regards to this please sign up here as a
ST member and then email me. I can then meet you at that Starbucks
on the SW corner of Main and Chapman.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 23, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug.

Jim, have you forgotten who you're talking about? Probably 99.999% of climbers who were around in the climbing-boot era would have liked sex in a cardboard box.
BES1'st

climber
City of Orange, CA.
Sep 27, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
Rick A,
Away from A-trays what portions of the Vampire went free in boots
during the 1'st ascent if any?
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Sep 27, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
"If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug."

yeah well, better than watching!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Sep 27, 2010 - 08:22pm PT
If you really like rock climbing in boots, you probably liked sex in the backseat of a VW Bug.

and your problem is?

Use what's available.
You just want to get it over with as soon as possible and find something better next time.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 3, 2010 - 11:09am PT
A Bump in Time Saves Thine...
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Sep 15, 2011 - 12:28am PT
Manly men rock climb in mountaineering boots

Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
Climbing Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, more than 30 years ago
Climbing Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, more than 30 years ago
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Try this in mountaineering boots
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, over 30 years ago
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, over 30 years ago
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
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