Steve Roper's 1964 Red Yosemite Guide- Classic Photos

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 22, 2018 - 08:49pm PT
Loved seeing:
Sacherer Crackerer
Moby Dick's Maw
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 23, 2018 - 02:02am PT
Ledge Rat, as to the printed marks on the back of your copy, it might be a publisher's/distributor's indication that the title is a "remaindered" one, no longer being in the system due to low numbers of sales or great reduction of stock on the item and reduced in price.
Many books of this sort are marked along the bottom or top edge with Magic Marker, as well. Look for them on bargain tables.
Ledge Rat

Trad climber
Michigan
Feb 23, 2018 - 07:17am PT
Thanks for the response. I have lots of books with remainder marks, but have never seen a date stamp like the one on the inside fold of the dj. I was kind of hoping that the “R” in front of the date was a clever Roper! :)

Jeff
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2018 - 07:40am PT
I will ask him about it for you.
Ledge Rat

Trad climber
Michigan
Feb 23, 2018 - 08:19am PT
Awesome, thank you!

Jeff
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Feb 23, 2018 - 10:49am PT
The little red book, and especially the photos, were incredibly inspiring to me as a yearling climber in 1969. Some of them I looked at and thought, I could maybe do that and it would be just out of this world. Others, I thought, no way, ever....but it was still inspiring to see guys hanging out in this incredibly steep exposed spots, pretty much casual, getting it done.

That book went up a number of climbs in my pocket or antique (well, totally state of the art, then) Lafuma pack. Copies that are thrashed and are imbued forever with the juju of the age ought to sell for the premium, not the ones in mint condition that never saw the real world of Yosemite climbing. Robbins gave a talk near here a few years back, enjoyed it much, but I was a bit puzzled by people getting their copies signed. Maybe on a route page of a Robbins route I had done, but that's my book, purchased for my $4.75 or whatever.

Wonderful thread. Seems to me I read or saw somewhere that a couple of the photos are mis-captioned. Like maybe one or another annotated as Quarter Dome were actually Salathe Wall or something (I haven't done either route so cannot tell myself). Can anyone confirm or falsify this possibility?
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Feb 23, 2018 - 12:37pm PT
I just happened to be looking at my copy of the red book the other night.Like Mongrel's (Hi Adrian!!!), my copy is well battered. It surely isn't likely to make any money on re-sale, but the scribbled notes from my first climbing visit in '66 and beyond bring back so many wonderful memories, even though I never did do many of those routes so beautifully pictured in the book. A personal treasure.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
Adrian- I just went through the captions and I think that they are accurate.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Feb 23, 2018 - 03:34pm PT
Thanks, Steve. Must be one of those fried neurons that made me think that, something about one of the photos of Tom Frost on some aid roof.

First trip to Yosemite, summer 1969, we found a note in the book that apparently the whole of Glacier Point Apron up to the top hadn't been done in one go, but thought we could handle the slabs. The attempt ended not so well with a 70' factor 2 fall off of Coonyard pitch 4 or 5, held by one halfway driven anchor piton (which however we had tested because you carried a hammer then). But we rallied for a slightly more sober ascent of the classic Higher Spire regular the next day. Ah, those were the days.

It would be an adventure to do some routes again with no topo, only the text descriptions in that guidebook.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2018 - 05:53pm PT
Henry Kendall was quite a photographer and spotted that roof very early on and asked Tom to head out there on an FA after he had been climbing for a year or two. Tom was immediately good in slings and obliged.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Feb 23, 2018 - 09:06pm PT
ST at it’s best, helping me stitch a number of people together in the place we love....thanks to you all.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Feb 24, 2018 - 09:40am PT
Royal's notes solve a debate that occurred on the Sacherer Memorial thread.

I remembered we received news in Europe that the climb had been named Sacherer Crackerer but I was overruled on this in favor of Sacherer Cracker.

This shows that the original was indeed Sacherer Crackerer

Thanks Tamara !


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2018 - 03:19pm PT
Nice catch Jan!
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Feb 24, 2018 - 03:41pm PT
Yay, Jan I'm pleased to hear that. Thank you for sharing! If anyone is familiar with a Dennis Bird from Jackson Hole let me know.... I have his red guide...
Ledge Rat

Trad climber
Michigan
Mar 1, 2018 - 09:23am PT
Looks like my copy was once owned by Lewis Clark.


I didn’t know a thing about the man until spending an hour last night researching him. More great climbing history!

Jeff
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2018 - 09:44am PT
Red Guide Bump...
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