Has the fad of bouldering left us?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Sep 4, 2010 - 10:25am PT
Fanny pack bump.
Thanks for the story Wes.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 4, 2010 - 10:33am PT
i have never seen so many climbers, period.

between the gyms and the crags,

i mean there has never been so many boulder freaks at crsp, and i have been going there since 1971.

there used to be no parking lot, you could drive all the way up to the out house.

now the only car you see up there is the meat wagon.

i talk to the rock the whole time i am climbing,

kind of like mark fydrich, the pitcher, anybody remember him?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm_jU0b5Hgw
so everybody thinks i'm a freak to be avoided, hey man,
Randisi

Boulder climber
East Side
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:34am PT
I had thought that bouldering was dead back in the mid-Nineties. Then pads became popular...

But judging from all the chalk-smeared footholds and chalk-caked, unbrushed handholds I've been seeing since I returned to California (I'm not saying it only happens here), I'd say that boulderers have certainly gotten dumber.

I just visited Indian and Mortar Rock in Berkeley for the first time in ten years, and I've never seen it so ill cared for: dirt all over any hold within five feet of the ground and glass shards in what dirt has actually remained on the ground. I'm not sure if such neglect indicates an increase or a decrease in the amount of boulderers however.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Sep 4, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
Also, someone recently did a piece on Himalayan high country bouldering.

Oscar Eckenstein conducted a bouldering competition for natives in a village in the Kashmirs in 1892. He gave prizes of one rupee for each "winner", and commented the best there were far superior to any Swiss guide he had known. He might have mixed feelings about the beanies these days, however . . .
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Sep 4, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
I'm not really "old school", started climbing in 1995. Went to the buttermilks a fair bit back then, and usually saw only one other car (if any). Then didn't go back again until 2002. A dozen cars plus. These days, we all know the scene. I met Mick Ryan when I was down there, just as the craze was underway. Nice guy, invited me to his house. Boy, did he find the right place at the right time.

As long as climbing stays popular, bouldering will be at the forefront in my opinion. Back when I started climbing, it wasn't an end in itself so much as it was just good training for power / extreme movements to help you with routes.

"Cruxes, cruxes, cruxes" said Ron Kauk on the subject. You do enough bouldering and you'll end up doing pretty much every hard move you could ever enncounter on a route, That'show I used to look at it, prior to joining the rest of the pad people.

Even Ben Moon doesn't climb routes anymore, according to a recent interview. He said he packed away sport climbing almost a decade ago.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Sep 4, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
Edit: Tonesfrommars pulls the end-move on H-Dome.
Edit: Tonesfrommars pulls the end-move on H-Dome.
Credit: Apuhvel
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 4, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
My kids climb harder than most of you old crusty farts.












This is the future, you are the past.
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
My kids climb harder than most of you old crusty farts.

I doubt it. Nice pics, though.

Curt
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
You're exempt of course.
Thanks.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 5, 2010 - 02:06am PT
I started out bouldering and did it for years before I started leading and doing multi-pitch, so in reality my climbing is just an extension of my bouldering foundation. And then you get to aid and throw everything out the window.
Reeotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
Sep 5, 2010 - 11:20am PT
I've always regarded "climbers", who say they don't boulder, with suspicion . . .

Actually they're just a bunch of whiners . . .
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Sep 5, 2010 - 11:27am PT
Has the fad of eating pasta left us yet?
Because we would rather get back to eating just steak for every meal.

TC
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
Sep 5, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Has the fad of bouldering left us?
Not while I'm around. I'm glad to be among the company of Gill, Sherman, Bachar and all the others who loved this "fad."

Have the fads of practicing problems on top rope, 10 crashpads per vertical foot, beanie wearing, boombox playing, fag-dashing and general douchery left us?

I hope so.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 5, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
Ill second your sentiments about boomboxes.
Gregg Olson

Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
Sep 5, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
I have heard it said more then a few times that the hardest single moves in rock climbing have always been done and always will be done on the boulders. Bouldering is also (among real climbers) regarded as the purest form of rock climbing. Also... Im pretty sure toping out on a highball with a bad landing gets a "real climbing " rating !! Having done many very committing multi pitch climbs myself and bouldered many committing highballs, I can tell you there is no difference in the reward, emotion, and rush between the two. Maybe you just need to step up your bouldering choices Mungeclimber !!
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Sep 5, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
Didn't Royal Robbins himself start out as a boulderer?
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Sep 5, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
Spider Savage - Really great pics! I recognize the buttermilks of course, and I think Joe's Valley. What other spots are shown?

And, I defy anyone here sniffing their nose at bouldering as not being "real climbing" to try some of today's new wave highballs. Not even the ones in the extreme levels of difficulty department. Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes.

Have a look at this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSsdFlotCrA

Watch till the end. Forget that it's a V10 problem. Even if it was V1, I'd bet the farm very few of the "bouldering is a fad" climbers wouldn't sh#t themselves, no matter how many pads you have beneath you. I'm sure I would.

Past that, I know a lot of people who solely boulder, and not very many of them talk sh#t about guys who want to rope up and stroll around on 5.9 all day. I wonder why that is.
jghedge

climber
Sep 5, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
"Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes."

With a stack of pads below you? No. That's a ridiculous statement.

Plus, you get hurt 5 pitches up and it's a much bigger deal than if you're on the ground.

And you wonder why people talk sh#t...
WBraun

climber
Sep 5, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
LOL Joe

yer killin me man ....

hahaha ......
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 5, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
Yea, Im with jghedge also...
Bouldering is a great way to spend an hour or two after work or with the kids, but by no means is it as dangerous as falling off a cliff in the back country.
Too bad I don't get more opportunities to fall off sh#t in the back country.
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