Has the fad of bouldering left us?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 60 of total 180 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jogill

climber
Colorado
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
Also, someone recently did a piece on Himalayan high country bouldering.

Oscar Eckenstein conducted a bouldering competition for natives in a village in the Kashmirs in 1892. He gave prizes of one rupee for each "winner", and commented the best there were far superior to any Swiss guide he had known. He might have mixed feelings about the beanies these days, however . . .
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Sep 4, 2010 - 11:27pm PT
I'm not really "old school", started climbing in 1995. Went to the buttermilks a fair bit back then, and usually saw only one other car (if any). Then didn't go back again until 2002. A dozen cars plus. These days, we all know the scene. I met Mick Ryan when I was down there, just as the craze was underway. Nice guy, invited me to his house. Boy, did he find the right place at the right time.

As long as climbing stays popular, bouldering will be at the forefront in my opinion. Back when I started climbing, it wasn't an end in itself so much as it was just good training for power / extreme movements to help you with routes.

"Cruxes, cruxes, cruxes" said Ron Kauk on the subject. You do enough bouldering and you'll end up doing pretty much every hard move you could ever enncounter on a route, That'show I used to look at it, prior to joining the rest of the pad people.

Even Ben Moon doesn't climb routes anymore, according to a recent interview. He said he packed away sport climbing almost a decade ago.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Sep 5, 2010 - 01:17am PT
Edit: Tonesfrommars pulls the end-move on H-Dome.
Edit: Tonesfrommars pulls the end-move on H-Dome.
Credit: Apuhvel
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 5, 2010 - 01:40am PT
My kids climb harder than most of you old crusty farts.












This is the future, you are the past.
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Sep 5, 2010 - 02:42am PT
My kids climb harder than most of you old crusty farts.

I doubt it. Nice pics, though.

Curt
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 5, 2010 - 02:47am PT
You're exempt of course.
Thanks.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 5, 2010 - 05:06am PT
I started out bouldering and did it for years before I started leading and doing multi-pitch, so in reality my climbing is just an extension of my bouldering foundation. And then you get to aid and throw everything out the window.
Reeotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
Sep 5, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
I've always regarded "climbers", who say they don't boulder, with suspicion . . .

Actually they're just a bunch of whiners . . .
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Sep 5, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
Has the fad of eating pasta left us yet?
Because we would rather get back to eating just steak for every meal.

TC
OfBlinkingThings

Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
Sep 5, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
Has the fad of bouldering left us?
Not while I'm around. I'm glad to be among the company of Gill, Sherman, Bachar and all the others who loved this "fad."

Have the fads of practicing problems on top rope, 10 crashpads per vertical foot, beanie wearing, boombox playing, fag-dashing and general douchery left us?

I hope so.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 5, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
Ill second your sentiments about boomboxes.
Gregg Olson

Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
Sep 5, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
I have heard it said more then a few times that the hardest single moves in rock climbing have always been done and always will be done on the boulders. Bouldering is also (among real climbers) regarded as the purest form of rock climbing. Also... Im pretty sure toping out on a highball with a bad landing gets a "real climbing " rating !! Having done many very committing multi pitch climbs myself and bouldered many committing highballs, I can tell you there is no difference in the reward, emotion, and rush between the two. Maybe you just need to step up your bouldering choices Mungeclimber !!
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Sep 5, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
Didn't Royal Robbins himself start out as a boulderer?
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Sep 5, 2010 - 07:39pm PT
Spider Savage - Really great pics! I recognize the buttermilks of course, and I think Joe's Valley. What other spots are shown?

And, I defy anyone here sniffing their nose at bouldering as not being "real climbing" to try some of today's new wave highballs. Not even the ones in the extreme levels of difficulty department. Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes.

Have a look at this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSsdFlotCrA

Watch till the end. Forget that it's a V10 problem. Even if it was V1, I'd bet the farm very few of the "bouldering is a fad" climbers wouldn't sh#t themselves, no matter how many pads you have beneath you. I'm sure I would.

Past that, I know a lot of people who solely boulder, and not very many of them talk sh#t about guys who want to rope up and stroll around on 5.9 all day. I wonder why that is.
WBraun

climber
Sep 5, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
LOL Joe

yer killin me man ....

hahaha ......
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:12am PT
Yea, Im with jghedge also...
Bouldering is a great way to spend an hour or two after work or with the kids, but by no means is it as dangerous as falling off a cliff in the back country.
Too bad I don't get more opportunities to fall off sh#t in the back country.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:23am PT
Give it a rest. I've done tons of long, hard commiting routes and highball bouldering. Stop being a hater. Watch the video of Lisa Rands doing a 30+ foot V10 with the crux near the top. You think you have the stones to try it? Even with a stack of pads? No, you don't.

And I said "a lot of spicey roped routes". Not "all". But of course you purposely tried to make it sound like I was. Because otherwise you'd have no possibility of retort. Reading comprehension, it's a good thing. Stop letting your insecurity cloud your understanding. Right, off you go.



"Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes."

With a stack of pads below you? No. That's a ridiculous statement.

Plus, you get hurt 5 pitches up and it's a much bigger deal than if you're on the ground.

And you wonder why people talk sh#t... "
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:28am PT
"Didn't Royal Robbins himself start out as a boulderer?"

Pretty much all the cutting edge roped climbers used bouldering as an integral part of training. John Long, Bachar, Kauk. It allows you to work your skill on the hardest moves in a relatively safe environment, so that when you do encounter some tough business in a spicey situation, you'll have that much more confidence. I'll take their word over those of some hater who wants to pretend like bouldering is an affront to "real" climbing. What a joke.

Like I said before, I rarely have ever heard anyone who only boulders talk sh#t about climbing on a rope. They simply don't care what other people do. But the reverse doesn't seem to be true. Rope only climbers seem to be very concerned that everyone know they are "real" climbers because they get a few pitches off the ground and place their own gear.
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Sep 6, 2010 - 01:51am PT
boldering is RAD, but all them pads are like nine men kissing.... SUPA GHEY!!!!!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 6, 2010 - 02:19am PT
Didn't John sometimes call his soloing "bouldering in the sky"? As the essence of bouldering is no rope and (likely) considerable difficulty relative to the climber's abilities, an accurate summary.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 180 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews