Has the fad of bouldering left us?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Moof

Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Sep 3, 2010 - 09:23am PT
I think we have seen a general softening of the 'chic' of climbing. Not long ago it seemed like we had climbing walls as backdrops of sitcoms, Mathew McConaughey falling off sport climbs as a plot device, and so on. Either I'm watching less TV (sadly not true), or climbing has faded out of our national fascination a bit.

Bouldering still has a lot of ethics to overcome, driven largely by the low cost of entry, IMO. A pair of shows and a pad, and your good to go. Little to no mentoring required. Braided trails andflattened foliage results.

Not dead, but thankfully it looks from my meager perspective like the explosive growth of climbing in general has slowed.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Sep 3, 2010 - 09:31am PT
JR sends it.







we have the same jacket... did yours break 2nd day?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 10:06am PT
nice philG! thread stopper in 3 posts. :)



killer response everyone btw.


this one wins a prize!


I'm going to start a munge climbing fad, 51% of the route
must be covered in moss or rapidly decomposing
choss to qualify.


brilliance!


I kid and pot stir in the OP...

However, I've always thought bouldering was the most democratic form of technical climbing, essentially scrambling or what John Gill calls 'option soloing'

Yet, I find myself bouldering less and less, tho no less inspired by folks sending the shiz and was partly curious as to whether we just hang with the crusties or whether bouldering numbers have dropped?

given the number of young kick ass folks sending at planet granie on a tuesday night or thursday in the winter, the answer is a resounding ' fuk no, it's still going strong and more so than ever'

the barrier to entry is low, and as said above, the ethics and adoption of ethics may not be there just yet.

carpet swaths will return!!!
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Sep 3, 2010 - 10:29am PT
The fad will fade
the soul will remain.

you know,
kinda like fanny packs.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Sep 3, 2010 - 11:54am PT
My dad started bouldering years ago. The Front Part Deux let him ride on my pass since he only came in when it was slow. I took him out on real rock a few times... while we were working a vblahblahblah, he came around the bolder and said "hey, there is an easier way up over here..."

He was too cheap to buy a chalk bag, so he use A FANNY PACK. I was a bit embarrassed when I learned my pa was climbing with an old black leather fanny pack, but I got over it quick because at least he was climbing.

Once he complained to me "why pay $1 for 2oz of chalk when I can pay $4 for 9oz of talc at Costco." Cheap bastard! I explained that not all white powder was the same and told him he wasn't allowed to put baby powder all over the holds in the gym!


Well, a month after he drowned on his cancerous orange lung butter, I was going through his stuff. I found the old fanny pack and shoes he used to use and took them down to Vegas. A friend and I were doing Lev 29 and I figured I would take the memory of my pa along for the ride.

I was climbing like sh#t... didn't fall, but certainly didn't feel solid. I attributed it to having just lost my father. Since I was being weak, I had my partner lead pitch 4. After following I immediately led pitch 5 and linked it with pitch 6, for 280' of continuous climbing. About 40 feet from the anchors, pumped as sh#t, I realized I kept smelling "baby powder." I nearly laughed myself off the wall.

Totally avoiding responsibility and rambling...
apogee

climber
Sep 3, 2010 - 11:57am PT
That's a great story, wes.
SeanH

climber
San Mateo, CA
Sep 3, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
All climbing is fun.

That said, this trend of hiking out to alpine areas like Mt. Evans and similar RMNP bouldering spots to do 7 heinous crimps on a pebble...kinda weird. Go climb a mountain! To each their own though.

I boulder in the gym for strength/fun, and would probably have a blast in bishop. But I have yet to make the drive all the way out to the east side with a pad in the back of my ride instead of a rope.
t*r

Mountain climber
~ soulitude ~
Sep 3, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
i like multi pitch climbing but i get scared when i can't see the leader :(

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Sep 3, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
I sure hope the fad of bouldering is over...I'm tired of you clowns greasing up my boulders
Credit: it ain't me babe




Wes-best you've ever posted.
ec

climber
ca
Sep 3, 2010 - 02:51pm PT
The latest Climbing has an article on bouldering in the Sequoia back country (With Angel Wings right there!).

'never had picked-up a climbing rag for years and see this at a friend's house last month. Impressively. the most ridiculous thing I'd ever seen.

Then, while 4-wheeling out of Bald Mountain (near Shaver Lake, CA) after climbing, we see a ToyoTruck coming in with pads in the back...

Whatever...

 ec
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Sep 3, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
Yes Wes,, indeed a nice post from You!


and I like pebble pad people, keeps them off the normal crags....;-)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 3, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
Modern boulderers do some amazing stuff, and the focus on bouldering over the last 15+ years has probably generally advanced climbing standards. (And gyms, and ...) Plus it's a pretty good entry-level drug for other kinds of climbing.

There are concerns in terms of the impacts of boulderers, who seem often to travel in herds. All the usual - trails, trampling, waste. Plus noise, and the presence of "uncouth" groups. All disturbing to land managers and some of the public.

It is sometimes hard to take boulderers seriously, given their group behaviours, the ever-present videocameras and cameras, their uniforms, and the idea that we have to treat it like it's a BFD.

ps Liked Wes' story.
hooblie

climber
from where the anecdotes roam
Sep 3, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
^^^wes goes platinum, hanky please
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
First boulders are always free Anders!




Nice rambling Wes
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
Sep 3, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
Good story, Wes.
I didn't even know there was a fad goin' on!
It's ALL just climbing, right? Just a flava you fancy.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
Sep 3, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
This thread makes me SO ANGRY
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Sep 3, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
If you would have told me ten years ago that I would end mostly a boulderer, I would have laughed at you.

Now, with kid and job, it's pretty much the only climbing I do. You know what, it's not that bad.

I'll never be just a boulderer, but it has all the good elements of climbing but compacted into a short distance.

As for popularity, I can't speak for other areas, but Bishop seems to be getting more popular with boulderers rather than less.

They are catching on that the season is longer than advertised.

The new guide book may play a role too.

In short, if it's a fad- I don't see it. It's popular because it's good.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
Sep 3, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
I have a nice beanie now, too.
Score! ;-)
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Sep 3, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
at my age, bouldering is about the only thing I can do
AllezAllez510

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 4, 2010 - 07:24am PT
Lambone says:

"are you kidding? no munge you just hang out with the crusty supertopo vets.

The Circuit is building the largest indoor bouldering gym in the country right now in Portland. "

Because there's so much bouldering in Portland right?

Plenty of decent roped climbing in town, but PDX is a bouldering black hole...except for Carver which basically has five decent problems all of which i've done a million times.

I used to go to the circuit's original location and can tell you it was gumby central. On most nights I'd say easily 75% of the clientele had never climbed outside...and they're pulling down hard.

Having said that...the place had good route setting and was a pretty good place to train...except for the music which was usually godawful Euro house crap.
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