ushba

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Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Oct 19, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
Never used the Ushba version but I used to use a Yates Rocker for TR Solo which seems similiar. I had a prussik above like Big Mike shows in his picture.

The benefit of no teeth was so that it wouldn't damage the rope if I fell. Well I can tell you that I fell one day and the device didn't catch. After 7' the prussik stopped me. I ditched the Rocker and starting using the well teethed Traxion and never looked back...
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 19, 2018 - 04:55pm PT
There was an Ushba soloing accident at Skaha a few years ago but have details other than the climber decked and broke an ankle. If anyone has more info I would like to hear it.
I frequently lead belay with a Silent Partner and am religious about backup knots even to the the extent of hanging off a bolt to arrange things.
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Oct 30, 2018 - 04:59pm PT
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