Is That Your Favorite Locker Or RU Just Happy To See Me?!?

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 22, 2010 - 06:19pm PT
A thread for the workhorse biner! No other biner gets ground, gashed and grooved more than old reliable.

My favorite locker is this BD beauty! I just picked up a replacement so I have a mint one for show!





Who and when was the first locking carabiner invented?

Post up your favorites past and present.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 22, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
Phew. I was worried what Locker was up to. Didn't know what sort of photo would show. Greatly relieved. :)
Shack

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
Aug 22, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
My favorite Locker...


Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 22, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
These things weigh over half a pound. Solid chrome vanadium steel, with a breaking strength over 11,000 lbs. The friend who took me on my first climbs gave them to me (probably to get rid of the weight, but what did I know).

Made by Stubai, probably in the late 60s/early 70s
Made by Stubai, probably in the late 60s/early 70s
Credit: Ghost
The flip side. Over 8 oz (250g)
The flip side. Over 8 oz (250g)
Credit: Ghost
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Aug 22, 2010 - 07:04pm PT
My favorite biner is a locker!

I actually carried one of those monster Stubaes for rappelling way back when I was first learning to climb. The weight was obnoxious compared to the Chouinard & Eiger biners of the day. But it was a bomb proof anchor and rap biner(with 4 double reverse setup). Funny how we steered clear of rappel devices for so long, and opted for the biner setup.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Aug 22, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
These are pretty old. They belonged to Raffi Bedayn.
Credit: Chicken Skinner

Ken
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Aug 22, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
Hey Locker, is that a tattoo of a 'biner on your forearm? Cool.
Peace
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 22, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
Ghost, those Stubais make pretty decent brass knuckles.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Aug 22, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
For years I used to have a steel Marwa locking carabiner--- it was kidney shaped too. It was my only safety or as we say now locking, carabiner. An extreme unit, really. I did the Salathe solo with it. Somehow, I guess when climbing stopped being the only thing in my life, I lost it; in fact I see now that I disrespected it even. Great nasty unit from the early sixties. I think originally I found it back around 64.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 22, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
Ghost, those Stubais make pretty decent brass knuckles.

Ah, Ron, you've just moved us into story time...

About four years ago I had to go to Spain for a business event (yeah, I know, it sucked, but someone had to go). So, Seattle - Newark - Madrid. Not bad, but I was a bit tired. So, after clearing security, and with three hours to kill before my flight to Vitoria, I found a padded bench and went to sleep.

Two hours later, with my alarm beeping, I pulled myself together and... Uh oh! Where is my camera? Suitcase and computer bag are still on the floor beside my bench, but my camera is gone. It lives in a case on my hip. Connected to one of the belt loops on my jeans via a carabiner.

F*#k! Some scumbucket has lifted it while I slept! Or maybe not. I had to take it off my hip and put it in the tray to go through the scanner. Had I left it behind when I cleared security?

So I went back to the land side of the security line I'd come through and caught the attention of a guard. Somehow, with my limited Spanish I made him understand that there might be a camera left behind. He disappeared for a minute and came back with my baby. He started to hand it to me then suddenly stopped, took the carabiner off the loop, and then gave me the case.

WTF? The turd thought that just because he had a uniform and a badge he could steal my carabiner?

Our largely pantomime conversation had me pointing at the biner and then at my camera case and then at my belt loop. Followed by him putting the biner on his fist like brass knuckles. Indicating that he couldn't let me have such a deadly weapon.

Yeah, right. If he'd given it to me, what might I have done? Gone down to the car rental kiosks and demanded a Mercedes? Waved it at some poor sod in the food court and demanded a sandwich?

Dickhead.
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Aug 22, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
My old climbing pal Stein loaned Heidi an aluminum Eiger Locking biner this weekend at City of Rocks, since our "rope rocket" Kim wanted us to have at least two lockers each.

I had to ruin the moment, by explainings that Eigers have a well-deserved reputation as "Death Biners"
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2010 - 09:52pm PT
Peter- What else did Marwa make besides the ice screws that you ever ran into?
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Aug 22, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
Wow, those Raffi Bedayn biners are a thing of beauty. Fabulous patina from usage and time.
canada7764

Mountain climber
Suburbia Bay Area (originally Alberta)
Aug 22, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
Im gonna go foreign (and new). Has anyone tried these Mammut Mytholito or know of a store that carries them. I picked up 2 when I was abroad because I couldnt believe how good they felt. Anyone...Anyone....
Credit: canada7764
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 22, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
I like how David ( Ghost ) photographed his fabulous biners on his pet sheep.










Hee hee hee.









Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 22, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Nobody keeps a sheep for just petting.



I'm just saying,...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
Over the hump bump!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 27, 2010 - 03:29am PT
Ghost-

That happened to me in 2002, in paris. Although the gaurd/security was armed with a machine gun.

Same deal. Grabs it like a knuckle set, then pretends to punch me, followed by shaking his head "NO".

So pissed. Fatty omega pacifi HMS, with the offset gate.

The dog was pretty friendly though.

Mucci
duncan

climber
London, UK
Aug 27, 2010 - 10:26am PT
"Im gonna go foreign (and new). Has anyone tried these Mammut Mytholito or know of a store that carries them. I picked up 2 when I was abroad because I couldnt believe how good they felt."

They are made for Mammut by DMM. Any recent design DMM or the new Petzl Attache 3D screwgate (also made in Wales) will be of similar quality if you can't find any more Mytholitos.
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Aug 27, 2010 - 10:36am PT
Shack, that's my favorite one too. Can't seam to find him anywhere these days.
AFS
locker

Social climber
Aug 27, 2010 - 01:04pm PT


Anastasia...



:-)



Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 27, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
Since i like all gear to be lite, this old version of Quicksilver Screwgate is the one I have used the most just because it's compact and light. I know its not the best for a lot of applications because it is so small, but for some reason, it is the biner that gets used the most. In the end, I think the main test for any gear is "What do you reach for most often?" which is much more important than gate clearance, weight, etc etc etc. They don't make this one anymore so if I ever have to buy more biners, i would go with the Petzl Attache 3D just because it is so light for its size.

Credit: Chris McNamara
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
Locker Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
An old Simond classic from the early sixties.



bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Sep 4, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
The BD RockLock is my favorite belaying locker. The screwgate. The twistlocks...I dunno, just don't seem right.

As a workhorse locker there are a bunch of killer new designs out there. They're all good. Hard to pick a fav.

Ain't innovation and technology grand? (Cue Werner with a statement of how it used to be...)
T H

climber
Sep 6, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
Hardware-store variety for my rock rings .
Credit: T H
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
Love that Locker...Bump!
eKat

climber
http://www.ecokath.com/
Dec 5, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
That Mammut is THEE single most beautiful biner I've ever seen.

Architectural!

NICE!

eKat
grover

climber
The Gar, BC.
Dec 5, 2010 - 08:33pm PT
Is it me or do those bitd biners look mean?

They have a warped half-moon mallion rapide look to them.

MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Dec 5, 2010 - 08:48pm PT


Everyone knows National Geo makes the raddest locking 'biners, what is wrong with you people?

;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
Special Oops Model!
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Dec 5, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
Yeah, because you never know when you might need a screwdriver to tighten those...ummm...yeah! Special Ops!
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Dec 5, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
Please tell me the words "not for climbing" are stamped on this somewhere!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Dec 5, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
Here's an old notchless-gate PA that might be another contender for least safe.
Major axis 1600kg, minor-axis less than you weigh!



cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Dec 5, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
About those Mammut Mytholitos, a few online retailers seem to have them:

http://www.trailspace.com/gear/mammut/bionic-mytholito/#where-to-buy
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 5, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
Great ----------"Thread"!!!

Here is the Locker page out of the 1988 Chouinard catalog.
1988 Chouinard catalog page on Lockers.
1988 Chouinard catalog page on Lockers.
Credit: Fritz

It appears the least purchased Chouinard Locker, due to higher price, was the black anodized Marinabiner.

Does anyone here own one?? How about sharing a photo??

Thanks, Fritz
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 6, 2010 - 12:05am PT
Anymore I hear the word but always think of...Our pal!! :)
edejom

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Dec 6, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
Some metal that been used for memories:

khanom

Trad climber
The Dessert
Dec 6, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
I bootied one of those Mammut Mytholitos off Royal Arches a couple of months ago, and it is da bombz. A beautiful, wonderfully handling biner... I just love it. I can't imagine who would use it to bail off of.
groundup

Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
Dec 6, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
Here you go Mr. Haan,
Marwa locking carabiner (mid 50's to mid 60's?)
photo not found
Missing photo ID#181012

Steve, I think Marwa made a few other items:
Several types of carabiner
Wire ice screw (better cork puller though)
Several types of descenders for rescue applications
And miscellaneous rigging tools

Stubia acquired them sometime in the late 60s or early 70s (I think)
But before that they made much of the Marwa gear at their production facilities.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
Any markings on that biner?
hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside
Dec 6, 2010 - 07:00pm PT
The new Mammut locker is pretty cool, but that old Marwa is a work of art!
groundup

Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
Dec 6, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
Stubai Austria stamped on the other side, no strength ratings. It has a beautiful patina and the screw gate is brass. No wear marks at all anywhere on the carabiner!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
Sweeeeeet!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 6, 2010 - 08:35pm PT
This one doesn't look like a MARWA...

MARWA Stubai screw and locking carabiner
MARWA Stubai screw and locking carabiner
Credit: Brian in SLC

It is!

Few more older lockers:

Lockers:   <br/>
l to r top row:  Chouinard, Kong-Bonaiti, Bonaiti-Cassin,...
Lockers:
l to r top row: Chouinard, Kong-Bonaiti, Bonaiti-Cassin, Stubai.
l to r bottom: Chouinard, "Swiss Made", unmarked, Stubai, unmarked.
Credit: Brian in SLC

Cheers!
groundup

Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
Dec 6, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
Nice Brian! I have a few of those weird "fat D" shapes in a non-locking version. They weigh a ton and a half.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
I loved this black anodized Clog locker to death. This design featured a locking barrel that would spin freely when in locked mode and not jam tight.



Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Dec 26, 2010 - 04:38pm PT
Dig it, the BD "Gridlock". Looks like a nice solution for minitraxion /anti-crossloading apps:

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
Radical shape!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
Locker Bump...
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Mar 15, 2013 - 04:01am PT
Credit: nutstory
10b4me

Boulder climber
takin' the scenic route to Montana
Mar 15, 2013 - 11:39am PT
Reverse locking pearabiners are the only way to go
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
A PairaPearaBiners!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
Clip, Twist and Bump...Ahhhhhhh, I feel better now.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 20, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
My favorite locker is the lightest one available. Locking carabiners certainly have their place but I think they are overused. Do you realy need locking biners when you clip two bolts at the top of a sport climb and lower off....I think not.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
May 20, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
Opposite and opposed, so I agree with you.
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