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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 22, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
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One of my favorite historical articles from Climbing magazine's back yard. The first cover shot is from the July- August 1976 issue and the rest is from the winter 74-75 issue. I spent some time around The Poor Little Rich Town with the Udall lads during these years when Mike was just getting Climbing going in earnest.
Steve Shea seconding the crux of Mind Parasite (5.10), Independence Pass, Colorado, during the first ascent. Mike Kennedy photo.
The man in the visor, Marcus Udall, is now a senator for Colorado. I couldn't be more proud that he made the decision to serve in Washington.
Sure glad that he made that move because that is some soft stone!
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Double D
climber
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Aug 22, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
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Cool, never saw that article.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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This article was my first intro to Michael's excellent writing...
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Aug 27, 2010 - 11:27am PT
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Outstanding thread! Thanks to you, and to Mike !
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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Poor little rich Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
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Grotto Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Kennedy Bump!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 11, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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Hey Mike, where are you. (Tried tuesday, hope to see another great issue of Alpinist).
Drove over Independence wednesday morning and then got to reminisce with another of Harvey Carter's partners about climbing new routes with him there ('76).
Started early enough that, once I got thru THEZOOTHATWASASPEN, I encountered very little traffic.
(If you go over all the way this is good, especially if west-to-east as you are on the outside a lot more with no guard rail and a certain death drop.)
We need a "Who's been sandbagged by Harvey?" thread. lol
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Sep 11, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
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I remember that article well, had some of those pics hangin on my wall when I went back to school in Gunnison. I ran into Lou Dawson one time when we were both 3rd classing 5.6 to 5.8 jam cracks in Taylor Canyon in a light snowstorm. It was kind of surreal, quiet with big fluffy flakes coming down, jamming up short cracks side by side. When we finally got to talking on a ledge up there and I found out who he was, I told him that I was in the Western State College barber shop quartet with his brother Craig (who was also a great climber and drummer, I think Mike and Lou and Craig did some big climb together).
Thanks! this really brought back some great memories!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 11:05am PT
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Great Days Bump!
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Sep 18, 2010 - 08:10pm PT
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wow brings back memories from the early 90's when i grduated culinary school and than moved to aspen to ski bum. killer summers on indy pass with perl, jimmy, arlan, herman the german, mike(baker?). wow fun times riding down the pass, passing cars in flip flops and shorts racing to the littl nell for the night shift. those were two great years. aspen is great in your 20's when you still have the oats to be "last one off the barstool and first one in the gonadola line in the morning. oh ya...killer rock too!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Sep 18, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
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Great story. Those Aspen Cat's were giants.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
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Pretty damn bold!
Another wooly days period piece, the FA of Ames Falls from Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games, 1983.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
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Ames Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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Colorado Senator Mark Udall Bump! Just so he gets a blast from the past if his staff is on top of it! Hey Marcus!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2010 - 11:25am PT
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Staff prompting Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
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Bump for barefoot Henry Barber's Grotto cliff route!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Thanks for sharing this classic material!
The Ames Ice Hose story is always fun to revisit . . . they did the route with the lower 2/3rds being in pretty thin conditions. The bivouac by the fire on top really makes this an epic tale. Lately it seems to consistently form much fatter and is a must do route for all aspiring water ice aficionados. The final curtain is a magical place to experience.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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We don't seem to have Aspenites here on the ST!?! Can't even rouse the C'dalers!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Bumpage for christs sake. This is a great little article. Kennedy is now the head of Alpinist Magazine, by the way.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
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The Editor and Chief!
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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A friend of mine was born and raised in Aspen, in his forties now. Wild stories abound from that guy. He is so damn old school, he wouldn't bother posting or reading on a forum, unless he is blasting people for spraying about local ice conditions on line. Great teacher, great motivator, and can drink and drive like a champion.
Bump for the old pics of Ames. I am scared to go climb that with Quarks and Turbo Express screws with screamers. that sh'it is raw. Very cool.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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A Jeff Achey Grotto bouldering shot...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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Bump for Steve Shea!
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
BIG ISLAND or Vail ; just following the sun.......
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I spent 25 yrs climbing the pass. Nothing beats climbing there on a blue bird day in the fall. Just down the road from my old casa.
Did Kennedy & Fritz Stamberger ever rock climb together?
Fritz was the best ski mountaineer of three generations; he disappeared if Afghanistan working for the CIA in 79. Some of his stuff hasn't seen a repeat 40 years later.
Aloha & be well
Rg
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
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Grotto bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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Shea Shea Bump...
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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These are a couple pictures from last fall on Independence Pass. That place is special.
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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I could not imagine a better place to learn to be an alpinist. Great rock climbing on the pass. There was one crag on the top of Indepedence pass at over twelve thousand feet. Granite, perfect straight in cracks of all sizes. We used to go up there and train for the Diamond. There was another crag, Gold Butte which was climable on sunny days all year! We used to ski Aspen Mt. in the am and go craging in the pm in Jan/feb. There was also a great little ice fall just down the railroad tracks from Gold Butte so you could stay honed for ice. Moab 4hrs. Glenwood Canyon/Rifle 1hr. The Diamond/Lumpy Ridge/Boulder 1/2 day. NF Pyramid, NF Capital, Grizzly Pk all relatively roadside attractions. Great partners Chris Landry, Lou Dawson, Kennedy, Rich Jack, Steve Kentz, Jack Dorn, Harvey Carter etc. Great times. I'm taking my kids down to climb this summer.
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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Shit! that's the crag, Instant Karma cliffs. That was some wind sucking climbing!!
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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Yeah Man, I've had some GREAT days with my friends at Instant Karma!
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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I forgot a few. Larry bruce and Molly Higgins, Bob Wade and Fritz Stammberger. There were some rockstars on tour that hung out in Aspen and provided good entertainment, John Long, Henry Barber and Gordon Smith.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
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I distinctly remember doing early (2nd??) ascents of Mind Parasite, Center Route of the Plaque, and some dicey route on the Independence Wall, both with Steve Shea. Also did the impressive Dean's Day Off, possibly with Shey but probably with Lynn Hill. Barber led the 1st ascent in bare feet and it felt like 5.12 back in 1977 or so. I barely made it with fat fingers.
Anyhow, Steve could climb like crazy and ski like an Olympian. I almost killed myself trying to follow him down the Big Burn on Snowmass and once got going so fast I skied half way UP another mountain because I couldn't turn.
Kennedy ran Climbing out of a little shack with a light board and a typewriter. We used to take huge road trips in his old Fiat. I was the stun monkey and Mike would take the pics. Gorilla journalism.
Man, we had some fun back then... Those were some great routes with funk pro.
JL
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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John we did do the 2nd of Mind Parasite. Remember the head jam? I've never laughed so hard on a climb in my life. Good times. Hope your doing well. I just left Rossignol Co. after 15 yrs. I hope to start climbing again with my twelve yr old twins but maybe I should not do that to them. best, shea
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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BTW Deans Day Off is still rated 5.12 I think and MP 11. Being out of the mainsteam in the provinces we did not know how to rate. They were all 5.10 in those days.SS
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
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You guys probably remember this classic from the first grotto wall.
cryogenics
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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Now this is some cool old sh*!, I was just over the hill in Gunnison with Lou's brother Craig. We used to go over there for that crazy pub crawl...what was it called?
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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so many classics up there... bloodbath, brainwashed, zanzibar dihedral, the grotto traverse, v2, whirlpool rock, peruvian flake, cramper, the plaque, inner worlds, crack city, jaws, tits on a bull, id chimney, daredevil...etc...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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Glad this thread finally took off...
SS- When did you land in the Aspen area initially and who was around to climb with at that time?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Apr 24, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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A few modern shots (early 1990's).
Will post more later.
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 24, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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Steve, I landed in Aspen in 67/68. Met Chris Landry on a construction job. We were carrying hod for stone masons on the 110' tower on the Chapel of The Prince of Peace. The two masons were alcoholics and fell off the wagon. They did not show up for a few days so the foreman gave Chris and I the job to finish. We finished up and drove to cali. We made a lot of dough so took off for the Valley that fall. The weather had been great and our first and only climb was the right side of La Cosita. The next day the weather crapped out and it puked. I think a meter of snow fell in the high country over night. We hung out any way and witnessed the epic rescue on SF Half Dome of Rowell and Harding I think. We were hooked on the valley though we realized we needed more experience. That next summer we climbed hard around Aspen and did our first wall together, D7 on the Diamond. After that we felt ready for the Valley and had some great trips there. We had an opportunity to go to Woodstock but stayed in Colo. to climb. We were on the Diamond while our friends were in NY
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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Thanks for the background Steve.
Climbing or Woodstock...What a dilemma! LOL
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Wee Jock
climber
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Oct 21, 2011 - 08:35am PT
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Steve Shea ... did we not do Bridalveil together in 1976?? Did you take any photos? I gave up climbing ice after Bridalveil ... took to climbing snow-covered and verglassed rock instead as more ... intense! Saw you tumble down some ski-hill on Ripley's many years ago and was relieved to see you stagger up and stagger on down!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 21, 2011 - 09:48am PT
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steve shea mentions jack dorn. The same jack dorn as the pot plane crash?
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 21, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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Aye, Gordie me boy, good to know you are out there. I stumbled across this site not long ago after a long hiatus from all climbing. I'm now back in touch with a few old timers. My 12 year old twins have shown an apptitude for climbing so I've gotten off the couch, bought a new rope and have been teaching my kids the basics. Yes, we did the second ascent of Bridalveil Falls in Teluride in 76'. Mid Dec I think. If I remember correctly we cruised it, swinging leads on a very cold day. Each of us with twin "terrors". I've got photos. We drove my old Saab right up to the base. I have a photo of Larry and the huge fire he started with the Saab at the bottom of the route. If you want some photos I'll go through the archives. It's been awhile but I can find them. I last saw you in Chamonix in 77'. I remember we were planning a route you had spied on the Plan but the meter ran out on my plane ticket thus a sudden departure. In 78' I camped and climbed with Black Nick and got caught up with Gordon Smith stories and then lost touch. Now living in Wyoming and New Hampshire. If you come over get in touch. Let me know about the photos. Best,SS
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 21, 2011 - 10:02am PT
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Yup, same Jack Dorn. Great guy, taught him how to climb when he lived in Aspen , Co. Lou Dawson and I had a little climbing school then. I remember Jack as being enthusiastic!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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I went looking for Larry Hamilton's chalk article and found this classic Aspen period piece in Climbing September/October 1974.
Brad Udall, John Searles, a fellow named Tony and I did the North Face route under normal conditions shortly after these guys had their fun. About halfway up we stopped to look over to the left where these guys had gone. After a short bit of discussion, an impressive a volley of rockfall swept the area.
I can still see a steamer trunk-sized block spinning its way down the wall clicking and grinding and smell the cloud of granite dust.
Point taken...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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The north face of Capitol is in a gorgeous cirque, but it’s a long slog in, even in summer. Hard to appreciate how impressive this winter ascent was unless you’ve been back there. A grand adventure, indeed!
Wonder if Lou Dawson climbs anymore? He is a professional back country skier these days and his blog, Wildsnow.com, is excellent. Those Aspen guys of the 70’s, Shea, Dawson, and Kennedy, are remarkable in that they were world class climbers, and at the same time world class steep skiiers.
I believe that Dawson was the first to descend the other side of Capitol as part of his skiing the Colorado fourteeners project.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Michael is the man....climber, father, husband, writer and one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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A recent tragedy in RMNP illustrates the dangers of winter mountaineering in Colorado, of the kind described in Kennedy's article on Capitol Peak. There is precious little tolerance for error or delay in such conditions.
https://avalanche.state.co.us/acc/acc_report.php?acc_id=499&accfm=inv
Condolences to the family and friends of the lost climber.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
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Bump for the better side of valor...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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Christmas in Aspen Bump...
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steve shea
climber
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Dec 25, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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Hi Steve
Ya Christmas in Aspen BITD was nice. I remember going ice climbing in Redstone on Christmas day. It was kind of a tradition for a few of us. Today in JH was one of the best I can remember for pow though! No bah humbug here.
Happy holidays to you! Thanks for keeping ST entertaining for non cali, old, over the hill alpinists. SS
Lou was the man Donini!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
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Keeping far flung and estimable stalwarts like you engaged on this forum is my pleasure.
I finally met Lou Dawson this year and he is as described and one impressive talent in a fabulous crew. Just add mountains...
So much perfect snow, so little time to find it. Glad you did.
Cheers!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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A bump to get Shea back in the stadium...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 09:52am PT
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Shea bump...
A mutual friend Chip Chesteen told me some stories of going drinking with you where knee pads were standard issue for the trip home. Give new meaning to the phrase Pub Crawl. LOL
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steve shea
climber
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Jun 25, 2017 - 12:45pm PT
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It must have been a post climb drink up involving Barber. He brought drinking to a new level in the old mining town.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 08:54pm PT
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In the finest traditions of British climbing is he...
Sheridan Anderson drawing
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| Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic |
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