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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
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The Editor and Chief!
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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A friend of mine was born and raised in Aspen, in his forties now. Wild stories abound from that guy. He is so damn old school, he wouldn't bother posting or reading on a forum, unless he is blasting people for spraying about local ice conditions on line. Great teacher, great motivator, and can drink and drive like a champion.
Bump for the old pics of Ames. I am scared to go climb that with Quarks and Turbo Express screws with screamers. that sh'it is raw. Very cool.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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A Jeff Achey Grotto bouldering shot...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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Bump for Steve Shea!
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
BIG ISLAND or Vail ; just following the sun.......
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I spent 25 yrs climbing the pass. Nothing beats climbing there on a blue bird day in the fall. Just down the road from my old casa.
Did Kennedy & Fritz Stamberger ever rock climb together?
Fritz was the best ski mountaineer of three generations; he disappeared if Afghanistan working for the CIA in 79. Some of his stuff hasn't seen a repeat 40 years later.
Aloha & be well
Rg
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
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Grotto bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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Shea Shea Bump...
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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These are a couple pictures from last fall on Independence Pass. That place is special.
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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I could not imagine a better place to learn to be an alpinist. Great rock climbing on the pass. There was one crag on the top of Indepedence pass at over twelve thousand feet. Granite, perfect straight in cracks of all sizes. We used to go up there and train for the Diamond. There was another crag, Gold Butte which was climable on sunny days all year! We used to ski Aspen Mt. in the am and go craging in the pm in Jan/feb. There was also a great little ice fall just down the railroad tracks from Gold Butte so you could stay honed for ice. Moab 4hrs. Glenwood Canyon/Rifle 1hr. The Diamond/Lumpy Ridge/Boulder 1/2 day. NF Pyramid, NF Capital, Grizzly Pk all relatively roadside attractions. Great partners Chris Landry, Lou Dawson, Kennedy, Rich Jack, Steve Kentz, Jack Dorn, Harvey Carter etc. Great times. I'm taking my kids down to climb this summer.
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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Shit! that's the crag, Instant Karma cliffs. That was some wind sucking climbing!!
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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Yeah Man, I've had some GREAT days with my friends at Instant Karma!
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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I forgot a few. Larry bruce and Molly Higgins, Bob Wade and Fritz Stammberger. There were some rockstars on tour that hung out in Aspen and provided good entertainment, John Long, Henry Barber and Gordon Smith.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
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I distinctly remember doing early (2nd??) ascents of Mind Parasite, Center Route of the Plaque, and some dicey route on the Independence Wall, both with Steve Shea. Also did the impressive Dean's Day Off, possibly with Shey but probably with Lynn Hill. Barber led the 1st ascent in bare feet and it felt like 5.12 back in 1977 or so. I barely made it with fat fingers.
Anyhow, Steve could climb like crazy and ski like an Olympian. I almost killed myself trying to follow him down the Big Burn on Snowmass and once got going so fast I skied half way UP another mountain because I couldn't turn.
Kennedy ran Climbing out of a little shack with a light board and a typewriter. We used to take huge road trips in his old Fiat. I was the stun monkey and Mike would take the pics. Gorilla journalism.
Man, we had some fun back then... Those were some great routes with funk pro.
JL
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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John we did do the 2nd of Mind Parasite. Remember the head jam? I've never laughed so hard on a climb in my life. Good times. Hope your doing well. I just left Rossignol Co. after 15 yrs. I hope to start climbing again with my twelve yr old twins but maybe I should not do that to them. best, shea
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 21, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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BTW Deans Day Off is still rated 5.12 I think and MP 11. Being out of the mainsteam in the provinces we did not know how to rate. They were all 5.10 in those days.SS
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
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You guys probably remember this classic from the first grotto wall.
cryogenics
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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Now this is some cool old sh*!, I was just over the hill in Gunnison with Lou's brother Craig. We used to go over there for that crazy pub crawl...what was it called?
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Curt Luttrell
climber
the pale blue dot
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Apr 21, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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so many classics up there... bloodbath, brainwashed, zanzibar dihedral, the grotto traverse, v2, whirlpool rock, peruvian flake, cramper, the plaque, inner worlds, crack city, jaws, tits on a bull, id chimney, daredevil...etc...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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Glad this thread finally took off...
SS- When did you land in the Aspen area initially and who was around to climb with at that time?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Apr 24, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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A few modern shots (early 1990's).
Will post more later.
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