Little Giants- Aspen History Mike Kennedy Climbing Winter 74

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 52 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 22, 2010 - 11:45am PT
One of my favorite historical articles from Climbing magazine's back yard. The first cover shot is from the July- August 1976 issue and the rest is from the winter 74-75 issue. I spent some time around The Poor Little Rich Town with the Udall lads during these years when Mike was just getting Climbing going in earnest.


Steve Shea seconding the crux of Mind Parasite (5.10), Independence Pass, Colorado, during the first ascent. Mike Kennedy photo.

















The man in the visor, Marcus Udall, is now a senator for Colorado. I couldn't be more proud that he made the decision to serve in Washington.
Sure glad that he made that move because that is some soft stone!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Aug 22, 2010 - 11:53am PT
That "Bloodbath" looks like my kinda route. Thanks for the post.
Double D

climber
Aug 22, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
Cool, never saw that article.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2010 - 08:12am PT
This article was my first intro to Michael's excellent writing...
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Aug 27, 2010 - 08:27am PT
Outstanding thread! Thanks to you, and to Mike !
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2010 - 09:08am PT
Poor little rich Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
Grotto Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 08:56am PT
Kennedy Bump!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 11, 2010 - 11:13am PT
Hey Mike, where are you. (Tried tuesday, hope to see another great issue of Alpinist).

Drove over Independence wednesday morning and then got to reminisce with another of Harvey Carter's partners about climbing new routes with him there ('76).

Started early enough that, once I got thru THEZOOTHATWASASPEN, I encountered very little traffic.
(If you go over all the way this is good, especially if west-to-east as you are on the outside a lot more with no guard rail and a certain death drop.)



We need a "Who's been sandbagged by Harvey?" thread. lol
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Sep 11, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
I remember that article well, had some of those pics hangin on my wall when I went back to school in Gunnison. I ran into Lou Dawson one time when we were both 3rd classing 5.6 to 5.8 jam cracks in Taylor Canyon in a light snowstorm. It was kind of surreal, quiet with big fluffy flakes coming down, jamming up short cracks side by side. When we finally got to talking on a ledge up there and I found out who he was, I told him that I was in the Western State College barber shop quartet with his brother Craig (who was also a great climber and drummer, I think Mike and Lou and Craig did some big climb together).

Thanks! this really brought back some great memories!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 08:05am PT
Great Days Bump!
powderdan

Social climber
mammoth lakes
Sep 18, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
wow brings back memories from the early 90's when i grduated culinary school and than moved to aspen to ski bum. killer summers on indy pass with perl, jimmy, arlan, herman the german, mike(baker?). wow fun times riding down the pass, passing cars in flip flops and shorts racing to the littl nell for the night shift. those were two great years. aspen is great in your 20's when you still have the oats to be "last one off the barstool and first one in the gonadola line in the morning. oh ya...killer rock too!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Sep 18, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
Great story. Those Aspen Cat's were giants.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
Pretty damn bold!

Another wooly days period piece, the FA of Ames Falls from Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games, 1983.







Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
Ames Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
Colorado Senator Mark Udall Bump! Just so he gets a blast from the past if his staff is on top of it! Hey Marcus!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2010 - 08:25am PT
Staff prompting Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 09:42am PT
Bump for barefoot Henry Barber's Grotto cliff route!
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 4, 2010 - 10:07am PT
Thanks for sharing this classic material!

The Ames Ice Hose story is always fun to revisit . . . they did the route with the lower 2/3rds being in pretty thin conditions. The bivouac by the fire on top really makes this an epic tale. Lately it seems to consistently form much fatter and is a must do route for all aspiring water ice aficionados. The final curtain is a magical place to experience.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 10:11am PT
We don't seem to have Aspenites here on the ST!?! Can't even rouse the C'dalers!
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