Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 20, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
|
George Lowe and I along with 20 year old Ben Lepesant from Luxembourg just completed the Evolution Traverse in two days. Awesome alpine experience which we, luckily, had perfect weather for. George had his 66th birthday on the climb and I celebrated my 67th a few weeks earlier. To complete the climb in two days you need a good route finding nose and you have to solo 99% of the terrain much of it in the you can't fall category. We belayed three short pitches, did 5 raps and zero simul-climbing. It goes on and on ( nine peaks over 13,000 ft.) so a little endurance/conditioning is a good thing.
|
|
Burt
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, Nv
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
|
wow that is rad, man the old guys are gettin out and making the young punks look light....
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
|
Photos?
|
|
Alpine Raven
Mountain climber
Eugene, OR
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
|
Well done, Jim. That would've been fun to do with you guys. I remember from an earlier post that you were doing this. Any photos to post? Did you find a partner and get on the Hulk as well?
David
|
|
karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
|
I turn 30 in a few months, and hearing stories like this inspires me so much and gives solace to the idea of aging. Your a remarkable human Mr. Donini. But wheres the Trip Report with Pics????
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
|
George and Ben took some photos which I will get later and post. Ben's 47 year old father did the first six peaks with us, they had done an El Cap route together the week before. Ben is starting the Muir Wall tomorrow- he's a great kid who posts as "Freerider."
|
|
TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
|
That's a huge effort and commitment all the more remarkable in light of your advanced state of decay!
Congrats to all of you. Did that youngster have problems keeping up with you old duffers?
Pics?
Cheers,
|
|
Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
|
Yah, the weather holding is so key out there! I got booted off the ridge after Mendel last month, and around 12 days ago 2 friends made it all the way to Haeckel in 13 hours just to be snowed off- there were 4 inches accumulated on their tent when they made it back to Darwin Bench.
Nice job Jim, you are still crushing it.
|
|
AM
climber
DLFA
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
|
Congrats, Jim! That is huge! Leavin us youngsters (and old timers) much to aspire to. Right on!
|
|
bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
|
Amazing accomplishment Jim, for all of you. Makes me want to go do it too, I love the long Sierra ridge traverses, but I'm much too scared to solo 5.9 terrain.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
|
Awesome. Like everyone else, I'd love to see a trip report.
Also, since I'm already 46 and expecting some new offspring in a matter of days, it gives me hope that others are still out there crushing it when my kids will be old enough to join me.
Old dudes rule.
|
|
TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
|
I wish I was 65 or 66.
|
|
murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
|
That's awesome!!! Big applause!
[To add a little to the challenge factor, Jim hauled me up the Hulk just a couple of days before.]
You were considering doing much of the Traverse in Vibram Five-Fingers--did you try that?
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
|
How can it be "trad" if you don't place pro?
Excellent. Jealous I am.
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
|
Wow. Just wow.
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
|
Just out of curiosity, what kind of rack did you bring?
Maybe just slings and biners?
And a #3 blue camalot...?
|
|
jfailing
Trad climber
A trailer park in the Sierras
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
|
One word: Badass.
I heard some tale of Michael Reardon doing the traverse in less than a day... in jeans no less. Fact or fiction?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
|
Nice trip!
I take it that the team evolved an intelligent design for the adventure.
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
|
Very inspiring! Two of the very best still at it.
Makes me reconsider my list of excuses for not attempting such feats.
Rick
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
|
Me too, Rick. I am looking for a more robust list.
About died with, "..his 47 year old father..."
|
|
BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
|
I talked to Don Lauria after you left his house and he told me what you guys had done! Good on Ya! Keep getting it up!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
|
Light weight sleeping bag and pad, no bivvy sack. Jetboil for coffee and to melt snow. Had rock shoes but never used them- approach shoes are fine. Bring a 60 meter 8mm rope and 4 or 5 cams and some stoppers and slings. Foil pack salmon or chicken for protein and garlic instant potatoes to pull it together. Don't even think about simul-climbing, if you do you will bail.
|
|
aleday
Mountain climber
Stateline, NV
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
|
Bravo gentlemen. A good job of work.
Looking forward to some pics and a more detailed report.
|
|
High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
|
Nice.
"garlic instant potatoes to pull it together" - ah, there's a favorite.
|
|
t-bone
climber
CA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 12:24am PT
|
good work!
did you like that choss coming off of Darwin?
|
|
T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 01:20am PT
|
Glad you had fun up there with the great weather. It is such a great place in the Sierra. You guys are inspiring.
Where are your photos?!?
I'll add a few of mine from last year taking the easy way.
|
|
Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 01:26am PT
|
You old farts are BAD ASS!
|
|
Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 02:22am PT
|
Hope Im still climbing like you when Im grey, Donini!
|
|
nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 02:28am PT
|
You guys kick butt.
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 04:09am PT
|
Glad you had a nice WALK*
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 04:13am PT
|
Inspiring!
|
|
426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 10:58am PT
|
Neat stuff
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 11:23am PT
|
Really inspiring, Jim! Thanks for the post!
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
|
Awesome! This one is on my list.
Here's a shot taken from Evo Lake while Peter was nestled up to the bar with a glass of Kunde Cabernet in camp after the first foray he and Galen did in '97. Thanks for the Rack beta Jim.
|
|
superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
|
Nice job! I just did the whole shebang myself a week prior. Wondering if you found summit registers on 13,360, Darwin and Warlow? On 13,360 I put scratch paper under a rock (!!!) and on Darwin, I just wrote in the front page of "The Origin of the Species" and on Warlow I tucked some paper into a ziploc.
Just curious if you found the real registers or if you used the book and the ziploc?
Heading up the NE ridge of Warlow was unbeatable! Such perfect stone!
Victor Lawson (the guy with the "middle of forever on his mind")
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2010 - 12:36am PT
|
As Bridwell said, "That Donini is Bad Ass." Great job Jim, you inspire us and continue to push it hard! I had to laugh when at the Bridwellfest, The Bird and I were driving through the Monument, when he saw yer van he told me to just keep driving, you kicked his ass the day before.
Peace
|
|
ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2010 - 01:46am PT
|
Nice ! ...bump for climbin ... and doin us older guys proud !
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
|
I'll do a proper TR when I get photos from George and Ben.
|
|
Les
Trad climber
Bahston
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
|
Amazing. Thanks for the inspiration!
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
|
Donini: You sir: are a tough old fart! See you tomorrow!
|
|
Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2010 - 09:49pm PT
|
Wow Jim!
Every one says you're an old guy; it sure doesn't sound like it to me. Just climbing as hard and as bold as ever.
Barry
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2010 - 12:29am PT
|
Is this the Evolution Traverse? Or at least part of it? Perhaps from right to left?
|
|
em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2010 - 02:19am PT
|
awesome
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
|
wow, missed this while i was on the road.
what a great looking climb-- that sounds like an absolute blast.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
|
All that and then holding court at the Climber's Ranch in the Tetons...hard to get my head around.
Great stuff, Jim, good to see you.
-Brian in SLC
ps: package delivered safely...ha ha...
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
|
To reply to john hansen, your photo shows the latter part of it, namely Mt. Haeckel high and to the right, Mt. Wallace on it's near left, then Picture Peak (which I'm not sure is on the traverse). The traverse itself starts off photo to the right and behind the crest, with Peak 13,5-something, Mt. Mendell, Mt. Darwin and so on.
That's just a huge amount of territory. My buddy and I got spanked on the Little Lakes traverse, which is supposed to be easy in comparison. Can't imagine the energy needed to do the Evolution or Palisades traverses.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
|
Way to go Jim, look forward to the TR
Did you get in on any Hulk climbing while you were here?
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2010 - 12:30am PT
|
Cool!
A friend of mine (Vlad) solo'd the whole gig in a day this season as well, but to be fair, he's about 1/3rd yer fellas' age!!
Good on ya'll!
|
|
noriko nakagawa
Trad climber
los angeles
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
|
Congrats! Looking forward the pics.
-Michelle
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
|
I don't get it, hearing all these kudo and "way to go"s and shite. This is what great knights do- they slay dragons. It keeps the world in balance. I thought everybody knew that.
Z
|
|
BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
|
Congratulations!
Like others, I'm looking forward to seeing your pictures.
Wow!
Bill
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
|
Donini would probably forget to mention that the real crux of the traverse occurred early on the first approach day in Bishop when my golden retriever, Olivia, stole his socks and buried them in the backyard.
Where the hell are my socks? Donini and the innocent Olivia
At Upper Lamarck Lake. Ben, Dad Lepesant, George's gray pate, and Jim
On the way to Lamarck Col. Father, son, Donini, and Olivia
At base of Lamarck Col. Ben Lepesant, George Lowe, and Ben's father.
On their way over Lamarck Col.
Back at my place. Donini, Ben and his dad.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
|
What a grand outing! Thanks for the TR and I hope more pictures are forthcoming! Anchorites out for a stroll...
Don-does your pooch routinely poach?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
|
Badassssssssss!!!
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
|
Donini wears socks-I thought you said he was a hard man?
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
|
Talk about badaaaassss! Checkout these posters:
Wanted Dead or Alive - Notorious Sock Thief aka The Weasel
She doesn't harm them - she just likes socks!
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2017 - 12:58pm PT
|
Bump... for Olivia's 8th birthday
|
|
| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!