Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
Erik Sloan
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
|
Does this exist somewhere?
thanks,
e
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
|
Serious Doubt it.
Must talk to Dan McDevitt I think
Peace
karl
|
|
Erik Sloan
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
|
Thanks Karl,
Will call Dan.
Trying to put together a comprehensive list of Yosemite bigwalls.
cheers,
e
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
|
I think there are a number of routes after the original one; no info though. That big excel spreadsheet of Valley climbs has only those shorter climbs to the east of it by the Tower, I see.
Here is the original route from the Green Guide, 1971 in case you need it:
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Aug 16, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
|
This is what I have on my list:
Fifi Buttress
2545. Fifi Buttress 5.8 A3, Ro
2546. un Fifi a, one of 5 routes done 1998-2003, ST
2547. un Fifi b
2548. un Fifi c
2549. un Fifi d
2550. un Fifi e
2551. Sunset Strip 5.11a, 2p, M
2552. Vortex 5.12, 11p
2553. T-Bags Hanging 5.9 A3+, V, starts L/R? of Vortex, crosses Vortex, ST
2554. Colony of Slippermen 5.11+ A1, 2p
2555. The Golden Road (to eternal obscurity) 5.8 A3-, V, 7p, starts R of CoS, ST
2556. The Warbler 5.11d **, 3p
Clearly a lot of missing data, but maybe a few clues....
|
|
Erik Sloan
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
|
Thanks Clint. That's a start.
|
|
Easy Wind
Trad climber
Oakland, California
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2014 - 10:01am PT
|
Went up to do Voyager last May. (Great route)
Misjudging the start of the route we climbed the corner immediately left of the first pitch. This corner is hard to miss as it leads through an obvious crack system in orange granite directly right of a big roof. Great pitch ending with perfect hands in beautiful overhanging rock. There were new anchors on a ledge at the top of the pitch.
Trying to figure out what route we did...
Looking in the Reid guide, the topo of Sunset Strip (11a, 2P) seems to match the route - a thin crux section in the middle, followed by steep hands in a red/orange corner. We climbed it in one long pitch, but it wasn't quite the 165' listed in Reid. And there aren't many other routes in the Reid guide to get a point of reference. Difficulty felt on par, but a little easier than the listed 11a for Sunset Strip. We thought 10 c/d.
Anyone know?
Photo of the base:
Reid photo:
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
|
Running Wood - p1 (upper half is a gold corner) is 5.10d in the newest/unpublished (2005 draft) Reid Free Climbs topo.
Sunset Strip is the first route left of Tea Bags Hangin'/Vortex,
then next to the left of SS is the big corner of Romulan Freebird.
|
|
Easy Wind
Trad climber
Oakland, California
|
|
Thanks Clint. How many pitches is Running Wood? And do you know who did the FA?
We just traversed over to the ledge at the base of the Incinerator pitch on Voyager from the anchors on Running Wood.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
The rope in your photo is hanging on Voyager P1. Great pitch. Awesome route overall. Length of pitches seemed a bit off in the topo, they were shorter than advertised. Lots of great crack climbing.
|
|
Easy Wind
Trad climber
Oakland, California
|
|
That's right, Vitaliy.
Took this shot after rapping Voyager and then climbing the proper first pitch of Voyager.
Definitely worthy route.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
> How many pitches is Running Wood?
4
> And do you know who did the FA?
Yes. (That info will be in the new guide).
|
|
tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
|
|
That first pitch is so divine. And the Incinerator shows no mercy. A mega classic in the making? Yes. Shhh.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
Kicking around the idea of giving the Voyager a go this weekend... This thread solidifying things.
What a photo, tahoe! Is that the Incinerator pitch, or p1?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
I found incinerator is a sick pitch! Was my first 11c so in yosemite! Got my ass kicked on the following pitch though, maybe friction is better on a cool day. Last and first pitches are awesome too! Suggested it to a few groups of friends already. I think a few will do it this weekend.
|
|
Easy Wind
Trad climber
Oakland, California
|
|
le_bruce, that's P1 in Tahoe's photo.
Here's a crappy shot of the Incinerator pitch on Voyager:
And here's a shot of P1 of Running Wood. If there's a line-up for Voyager, check out this one while you wait:
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
If there's a line-up for Voyager...
Five parties!
...check out this one while you wait:
Did the first pitch, it was great. Should have read Clint's post more closely - didn't realize it was 4 pitches.
We braved the heat and went up Voyager as well. Just got through the Incinerator before the sun hit. Wow! Tahoe nails it above. Utterly classic.
Though judging by this weekend, I don't think it's any secret, haha.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!