Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 20, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
|
If anyone has copies of the 1967 and 1968 Ascent Magazines handy, I am looking for a scan of the Climbing Notes section for Valley climbs. My particular interest is the reporting of free and first free ascents.
Thanks, Roger
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
|
Roger
I've got them all, and will be happy to scan some articles for you. But not until Friday. I'm under a double Thursday night deadline, but once that's met, I'll be able to fire up the scanner.
David Harris
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
|
Roger: I have the 68, but not the 67 Ascent, and a great scanner. I will work on that project for you in the morning.
If anyone has a 1967 Ascent, I will be glad to scan and return to sender.
Best Wishes; Fritz
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2010 - 01:27am PT
|
If it were ok with the copyright holders (Steck and Roper, I guess?) it would be really great to see those online.
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 08:30am PT
|
Thanks all. David, if you can scan the Notes Sections and e-mail them to me I would really appreciate it.
I am trying to find the first published sources for Frank Sacherer's first free ascents in the Valley. Most occurred after Steve published is first guide in 1964?, but we all knew about them before the green guide was published in 1971. None of the 70s climbers who were active doing these routes in the late 60s--Barry Bates and Steve Wunsch among them--believes that it was only from word of mouth, but it might have been. I don't remember when Pratt's looseleaf binder was still in Camp 4. If they are listed in Ascent then it clears it up.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2010 - 09:32am PT
|
Roger,
Your focus here is interesting. Back then quite a bit of Yosemite climbing was on routes that weren't in the guides and may only have been from articles or AAJ reports, if that even. More pointedly, I am thinking a significant number of Frank's important free routes (I am counting 17 approx) were in fact only in our oral tradition until the Green Guide years later. That is, they did not make it into the Red Guide published in 1964 and had to wait until the Green Guide of 1971---six years later---for publication. I can't find my Red Guide at the moment so perhaps you should run down this list and see what made it into the first (Red) Roper. Between 1965-1971 I had done all but 3 of these climbs. Having the only descriptions in AAJ or Summit or similar meant that the climber on the ground, living in camp back then, was going to be largely working with oral tradition for years.
Here is a list of those Sacherer free and FFA climbs with the dates available (per Don Reid guides and the Yosemite XLS spreadsheet corroborating).
Reed’s left: 1964
Reed’s Direct: last pitch 5/64, 2nd pitch 6/64
Hourglass R: 8/64
Sacherer: 1964
Moby Dick: 9/1964
Ahab 9/64
El Cap East Butt 8/64
Dihardral: 8/64
Lost Arrow Chimney: 1964
Half Dome Salathe Rte: 1964
HCR NE Butt: 1964
Sacherer Fredericks 7/64
MCR East Butt: 1965
DNB: 1965
MIdget Chimney: 1964
Worst Error R: 11/62
Crack of Despair: 1964
|
|
Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2010 - 11:00am PT
|
What a badass . . .
What sort of footwear did he use in 1964?
|
|
BBA
climber
OF
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
|
I scanned the following from my December 1964 Sierra Club Bulletin. The bulletins were the main way to get stuff out to the California climbing community at one time. The Bulletins were once nice books published yearly, not the monthly rag they have become.
Sacherer is down in the article by Pratt. I included Brower's intro as it tells what happened to the Sierra Club's formerly premier position for reporting on climbing in Yosemite.
So I will be selling my Bulletins (1955-1968) soon, first by trying to get money from Powell's Books, then out here. There are many intersting historical articles.
Bill Amborn
Mountaineering Notes (December 1964 Sierra Club Bulletin)
THIs YEAR'S NOTES did not reach headquarters until late in the pre-
Christmas rush, by which time space had been committed too far
to permit including all the material of broad interest. Some that
was hoped for isn't in yet. In omitting so much of the kind of
material I myself was first responsible for getting into these pages
from 1934 until 1953 or so, I have begun to wonder. How can
the sport and the club best be served? With some 27,000 copies
of the Bulletin now being printed, as against about 2,700 when I
started, we probably need to reevaluate the use of space.
The continuity of Mountaineering Notes had its first cuts and
scratches when the Mugelnoos started, followed by the Yodeler
and then by chapter and section newsletters. It got bruised when
the ratio of climbers to over-all membership dropped sharply even
though achievements rose sharply. It was wounded when climbers
all but stopped writing.
Mountaineers would probably like a bigger section of the Bulle-
tin, not a smaller one. The readers who outnumber them may prefer
more diverse fare, hoping to see only the climbing stories that have
something really new to say and say it very well. Can the rest of
the record be kept intact by a quarterly, well-printed, separate
Mountaineering Notes supplement to the Bulletin, its editor ap-
pointed by the Mountaineering Committee?
The first (sample) issue of such a supplement is planned to in-
clude pieces on Peru by Glen Denny and Leigh Ortenburger, Devil's
Tower by Royal Robbins, Mount Brewer NE Face by Ken Boche,
the Crumb by Barry Miller, Ribbon Fall East Portal by Allen Steck,
El Capitan North American Wall by Tom Frost, Washington
Column S Face by Layton Kor, Mount Watkins S Face by Chuck
Pratt, Goodrich Pinnacle W Side by T. N. Herbert, Glacier Point
Apron by Bob Kamps, Middle Cathedral Rock N Face by Frank
Sacherer, and Taft Point by Al Macdonald. These are what didn't
fit in or didn't come in yet.
QUESTION: Who, to start it off, (a) wants to have these records
(printed in the same format as this issue) and (b) who would be
willing to pay $1 for four issues per year?
-DB
A Summary of Yosemite Climbing
The record of ascents in Yosemite Valley for the summer of 1964
is one of the most impressive in the Valley's climbing history.
Typically, a small number of climbers made a remarkable number
of spectacular first ascents as well as a great many first free ascents.
Activities began early as climbers moved into Camp 4 in May to
take advantage of the cool weather and long days. A four-day recon-
naissance of El Capitan's North American Wall by Royal Robbins,
Tom Frost, and Glen Denny was an indication of things to come.
By the end of June successful ascents of two EI Cap routes-the
Dihedral Wall and the West Buttress had been made, as well as
one ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome, two ascents of the
North Face of Sentinel Rock via the Flying Buttress, and the 2d
ascents of Sentinel Direct and the North Face of Quarter Dome. A
new route was established on the East Portal of Ribbon Fall which
involved an 1800-foot climb over a three-day period.
In June, Lionel Terray spent several days in Yosemite, climb-
ing two of the most popular routes-Royal Arches and Arches Ter-
race. Near the end of the month, climbing was brought to a halt
by the tragic death of Jim Baldwin, a fine climber and a close
friend to many Yosemite climbers.
In July the ranks were thinned out by those who migrated to
other climbing areas to escape the July heat. Despite the unpleasant
weather, a spectacular five-day ascent of the South Face Mount
Watkins, one of the last unclimbed walls in Yosemite, was accom-
plished.
Throughout the summer, the most popular climbing areas in the
Valley proved to be the Cathedral Rocks, Glacier Point Apron, and
the climbs along the base of the Southwest Face of El Capitan. At
least three new routes were established on Glacier Point Apron,
including the right side of Goodrich Pinnacle. Most of the other
routes on the Apron were ascended at least once, Patio Pinnacle
being the most popular. The numerous short climbs along the base
of EI Cap's SW face saw steady activity throughout the summer.
Climbers arriving in Yosemite for the first time were generally
introduced to Valley climbing in this area.
More ascents of routes in the Cathedral Rocks were made than
in any previous summer, the only untouched route being the North
Face of Middle Cathedral Rock. Although many ascents were made
of such old standards as El Cap East Buttress, the Southwest Face of
Half Dome, and Yosemite Point Buttress, few ascents were made
of some of the shorter climbs, such as the Spires and the Overhang
Bypass.
Some of the short, difficult climbs which have been established
in the last few years have increased in popularity each summer.
Rixon's Far West, Slab Happy Pinnacle, and Coonyard Pinnacle
were climbed several times, although climbers on Coonyard usually
kept to the first pitch. Several more of these short, extremely diffi-
cult routes were established this summer, including the left side of
Reed Pinnacle, a new direct route on its right side, and a variation
on Coonyard Pinnacle which connects the end of the first pitch di-
rectly with the fourth pitch.
Although two more ascents of the regular route on Sentinel
Rock, and two more ascents of the NW Face of Half Dome were
made, the Lost Arrow chimney was climbed but once. In that as-
cent, all direct aid was eliminated to the notch.
This marked the beginning of an unprecedented number of free ascents of climbs which had for years required direct aid. A small number of climbers, outstanding among whom was Frank Sacherer, after a summer of
concerted effort had succeeded in eliminating all aid on: The Slack,
SW Face of Half Dome, Dihedral Route on Slab Happy, Right
Side of the Hourglass, Bridalveil Fall East Side, Yosemite Point
Buttress, El Cap East Buttress, NE Face of Middle Cathedral Rock,
North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress of Higher
Cathedral Rock, and the Crack of Despair on Elephant Rock.
In September, Layton Kor arrived in the Valley and with char-
acteristic speed and nervous energy climbed two routes on Sentinel
North Wall, a new route on the South Face of Washington Column,
and made the 2d ascent of the NE Face of Lower Cathedral Rock,
to name a few. First ascents continued to be established during the
fall. Two very difficult routes had already been made in the Cathe-
dral Rocks, both of which were climbed entirely free on the first
ascent. A new climb was added to the notorious routes on Elephant
Rock and was called The Crack of Deliverance by the first-ascent
party.
An outstanding climbing season was brought to a fitting close
by the first ascent of the North American Wall on EI Capitan. A
four-man team reached the summit after nine continuous days of
climbing and proclaimed the route to be the most difficult yet
established on El Cap.
-CHUCK PRATT
79
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
|
Thanks Bill,
By modern standards these are cryptic Beta, so to speak, but given that they were written by Pratt, we will have to just accept them as they are.
|
|
Norman Claude
climber
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
|
Roger
I'd argue for poetic as opposed to cryptic. As in how else would one approach Pratt's notebook. The ffffing Guttenberg on the table. Approach the alter Mister Breedlove. Now enter your route and name.
I only had the privilege of perusing the notes one time. Then sadly we know the tale of the disappearance.
And not to state the obvious but why not give Roper or Steck a call.
Oh, and the shoe question, Kronehoffers, Long ware, Bonatti biners and balls.
Claude
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2010 - 11:19am PT
|
Roger, I just last night got my first look at those, amazingly enough.
I can only offer a brief summary at this time, but will provide more soon.
They offer route descriptions similar to Roper's guides. I believe the
1967 Yosemite Notes is edited by Chuck Pratt. At the end of the
descriptions of the new routes, Pratt lists 25 climbs which had all the
aid eliminated from them, with brief description, date and attribution.
A paraphrased example: Reed's Pinnacle 5.10 Difficult jamming to the
right of the A4 crack.
Some of the new climbs listed had names different than their current ones,
such as Fredericks' Folly on Middle Cathedral Rock, and South Face,
Washington Column (the Bridwell/Faint route).
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2018 - 05:41am PT
|
This is a bump related to Tamara's post of her Dad's notes in the back of his 1964, Red climbing guide which showed the FFA done in the middle 1960s. notes Dad made on the last page of the first edition of Roper's guide I thought I had a copy of the page from the 67 or 68 ascent in which Pratt lists the FFA done in 1964-65 which was the spark for the 1970's free climbing revolution, but I cannot find it. Any chance someone with a copy of that issue of Ascent can post Pratt's notes?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 11:04am PT
|
The list of free ascents is in the 1967 edition of Ascent. I will try and scan the entries for you soon.
|
|
Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 11:12am PT
|
I have both issues setting by my scanner. Just as soon as I finish this cup of coffee, I'm on it.
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2018 - 11:22am PT
|
Thanks Steve, Fritz. As I recall, Chuck's list sort of has an ironic tone: just one or two opening sentences and then this long list of mostly Sacherer FFAs since Roper 64 guide on the lower right side of the right hand page. Almost an afterthought.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 12:57pm PT
|
Thanks for picking this task up Ray.
I just spent several days interviewing Roper and Steck about the history and content of Ascent magazine, nine hours in all.
Due to its shift into conservation and away from mountaineering content, the Sierra Club Bulletins ceased to include Mountaineering Notes after the red guide came out prompting Roper, Steck and Fitschen to propose a stand alone mountaineering journal in 1966. The Club to its credit agreed to the separation and allowed the editor's vision of Ascent to flower unimpeded.
The break in covering route information lead to a very extensive report by Pratt once the inaugural issue came out with almost an entire page devoted to first free ascents.
|
|
Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 02:13pm PT
|
Steve: It's always good to work with you & not step on your toes, hence the email I sent you about this too.
1967 Ascent scans. Click to enlarge. They look sharp to me & average about 3mb in size.
|
|
Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 02:19pm PT
|
1968 Ascent new route scans. Click on photos to enlarge. They are very readable when you do that.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 03:08pm PT
|
Ray- I just replied to your email and am happy to have help when it comes to scanning material to share. After posting thousands of my own photos and scans I appreciate your efforts in continuing to share historical content.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!