Nuts To You- Royal Robbins Clean Climbing Intro Summit 1967

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 60 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
Some period nuggets from my collection.


Clogs, Troll, Parba and Dolt.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
Very Clean Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
Nut Bump!
S.Leeper

Sport climber
Austin, Texas
Aug 11, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
I never knew nuts used to be called "spuds"
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 11, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
what a thread! Many thanks Steve
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2010 - 11:15am PT
Higgins Bump!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Aug 29, 2010 - 11:36am PT
Just a tiny side note, Jim Herrington is going to England to photograph Bonington and Doug Scott soon, Pilgrims. Can't wait to see the results!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
Better not forget Joe Brown!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2010 - 11:51am PT
Some commentary from Long Ago...?
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Jun 11, 2011 - 09:14am PT
Steve asked me to post a photograph of the Spud on this thread. Here it is, with the real story of this nut:

"In the spring of 1963, John Earnshaw of the Phoenix Mountaineering Club was formulating in his own mind the need for, and the possibility of improving in some ways, the safety protection needed for some climbs. After numerous sketches and rejections, he decided on the style and the shape of the Spud, as it has always been known. The origin of John Earnshaw's choice of name for the device came about as follows. At the time of the invention, he had no access to machinery but one of his climbing protégés, Terrence Murphy, was an apprentice engineer and he volunteered to make a prototype. Everyone may of course already know that, in Ireland, potatoes are known as "murphys" and, in England, they are called "spuds". Because of Terrence's invaluable help, John Earnshaw named his invention Spud in his honour.
He had no means of testing the device scientifically but, with help, he did the testing by jamming the Spud in a crack near the top of a climb in Ravensdale. He hurled a kit bag full of stones over the cliff to check if the device held fast. After several successful proving experiments he decided that the Spud was indeed safe to use."

John Earnshaw Spuds. The small wedge in this photo is an aluminium ver...
John Earnshaw Spuds. The small wedge in this photo is an aluminium version of the iron Spuds threaded on the bit of rope.

Credit: nutstory

Another nut was marketed under the name Spud some time later. "Paul Seddon, master of his castle in his own small enterprise Parba, was asked in 1965 by Ellis Brigham to manufacture new nuts to be sold in his store in Manchester. Paul Seddon cut his prototypes in a 25mm by 20mm bar of aluminium alloy that he was going to use, by a coincidence, for a future piton... Angled at 14 degrees and drilled transversely with a simple 8 mm hole, these nuts were delivered, also under the name of Spud, to Ellis Brigham in October 1965. Later on, Spuds of different sizes were manufactured."

PARBA Spud
PARBA Spud
Credit: nutstory

Stephane / Nuts Museum
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2011 - 11:33am PT
Stephane- Thanks for the generous helping of Spuds!

Can anyone out there confirm the existence of Spud Murphy the Yorkshire climber that Joe Brown credits with inventing the modern metallic nut?

I wonder if Joe and the boys were yanking the Yank...
shady

Trad climber
Jun 11, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
Hey Steve, thanks to you and those posting first hand accounts of the arrival of this ancient ;) technique.
My adult climbing career began in the early 70's. My rack was a mix of pins and nuts.
BITD the lore was that the czech's had invented artificial chock stones of metal in the ninteen thirties or forties, which were quickly abandoned for rope (wood and cork) for protecting climbs on the soft stone of places like Adrspach.
this sounds logical, but can any of our elder-stonesmen confirm or debunk this lore?

Thanks

Post, post, response post, response edit post: Thanks for the link Steve, great read.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 11, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
So would they be called "French Spuds" in France, and "Freedom Spuds" in the US?

Noting that it appears that Thomas Jefferson imported the idea of the French fry into the US, and gave them their name.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
shady- My understanding is that any form of metallic protection that wasn't a big fat eyebolt wasn't deemed acceptable by the Dresden-Czech climbing community. Threaded, wrapped or jammed rope material was the only acceptable form of removable protection so as to keep rock deterioration to an absolute minimum.

This consensus took a little while and some serious effort to put into place. More on these areas...

Dresden climbing

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1018427&msg=1506912#msg1506912

Czech climbing

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/664661/Classic-Czech-Climbing-History-1983
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2011 - 10:32am PT
Bump for Nuts!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
Bump for a spud right where you need it!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 17, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
Bump for Royal!

When's his birthday??

It is coming up!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 17, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
Fritz, looks like it was missed by two weeks.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1077637/Happy-Birthday-Royal-Robbins
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 17, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
Mighty Hiker! Thanks!

Party on Sat night with pals that appreciate what Royal achieved!

We will toast him, despite missing his birthday.

Here's a link to a previous belated celebration.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1089550&msg=1091782
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
A nice clean little bump...
Messages 41 - 60 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews