Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
May 15, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
|
I guess this thread is rolling around again. Michael had such a large presence it's like there's still a vacuum in his absence.
I still can't bring myself to remove his card from my rolodex:
The odd thing about Michael's phenominal ability was that, back in the late 90s/early 2000s or so, he was just an OK climber until he just took this HUGE step forward in ability. I'd climb with him at Suicide, Williamson, the Punchbowl and, even though I was just in OK shape at the time, I could onsight some stuff that he couldn't. Then suddenly, BAM!, it was like this amazing ability emerged. I still marvel at that. So remarkable. Still very much missed.
|
|
pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
|
|
|
May 15, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
|
The earth spins a little slower without you on it Michael.
I was lucky to have known you.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
May 15, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
|
I had never met MR but had for years heard the slander about his staging free solos and fibbing about this and that. When I finally did meet him and we did a couple new routes at Malibu, circa 2002-2004, he crushed the climbing and was a blast to be around - like Jim Carrey on steroids. I know he had a special relationship with his wife and kids and it must have been tough.
But life goes on - sadly, without MR.
JL
|
|
Quasimodo
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 16, 2012 - 12:34am PT
|
First time I met MR he was working at a friends warehouse in the shipping department. He told me about his Glam Rock ambitions and his one rock climbing experience outdoors. My buddy and I took him the the Ape's Wall at Malibu and watched in amazement MR flashed 5.11 top ropes on his second day climbing. His brash and loud personality was tough at times but his energy was infectious.
When he told me about law school I thought he was just joking. When he told me about his career in film production and entertainment law I had serious doubts about his honesty. I was thoroughly embarassed when I found out that MR had never mislead or exaggerated this claims. I had verified his education and professional claims with a few phone calls. I wrote him to apologize feeling guilty about doubting his honesty. MR responded with kind words and accepted my apology. I truly believe he was completely honest even though he enjoyed self promotion of his climbing accomplishments.
The last time I saw Michael he was doing laps at Hemingway Buttress at Josh. He talked to me while he soloed up and down numerous climbs while I lead the Overseer. He congratulated me as I topped out on Overseer. We had Hemingway all to ourselves that afternoon. I can still hear his unique laugh and see his friendly smile.
|
|
Steve's sister
Social climber
Las Vegas, NV
|
|
|
May 16, 2012 - 09:44am PT
|
Still weirds me out that it was 11 months to the day after my brother died.
Car crashes I get, rouge wave...WTF....
|
|
Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
|
|
|
May 16, 2012 - 10:24am PT
|
Wow...I never met the man,but you guys are making me miss him.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
May 16, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
|
The first time I met Reardon was at the base of the bat crack. He was climbing it with Mortimer, the filmmaker, and they were sussing out the details in order to film a solo ascent in the future. They offered to let us go first, but we knew we'd be slower. Reardon especially was very nice, and super psyched for me once he realized I was feeling intimidated by the line of the Vampire. Utter positivity.
Watching him climb, I remember thinking his style was very smooth. He placed one piece of protection before exiting the crack. On pitch 2 I saw him dyno for the flake, and then we lost sight of them.
On pitch 3, my partner took a fall and was resting on the rope while he got his head back together. Suddenly Reardon, in the middle of some hairy downclimb off to the right of us, called over with a good natured joke about how he was pissed that he'd missed that no hands rest, shouted some encouragement, and climbed down out of view.
|
|
Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
|
Just thinking of Mike over a beer with Guy.
|
|
Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 08:51am PT
|
Some three weeks or so, before Michael left for Britain, he was at our place in Idyllwild, sitting on Pen's kitchen counter. We were drinking tea and chatting about his trip, Penelope is from Yorkshire, England so he was interested in places to go. When he was leaving, he hugged Pen and she said in a motherly way, Michael be careful out there. Michael just chuckled and said, I will never die climbing, trust me Pen. He jumped into his car and left. A few days later came the news, totally chilling us both to the bone. As we all know, he was right. We miss you Michael, you were the most wonderful human being.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 09:02am PT
|
five years
where does it all go
|
|
Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 09:12am PT
|
Time flies out the window with some very special moments we can never recapture. I miss Reardon, Karafa, and Bachar. It's why I rarely climb since it helps me remember and I'm not ready to remember that much.
|
|
TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2012 - 09:54am PT
|
I know what you mean Anastasia I still climb, as a matter of fact I'm posting from the Cafe Andino in Huaraz, Peru. But hardly a climbing day goes by ,that I don't think of those guys. Climbers,friends,fathers and human being , flawed and all. But I misss them because of it, not inspite of it. TY
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 10:53am PT
|
Jeez, five years! We recently moved and so my wife made me (finally) made me get rid of all my old issues of Climbing, Mountain, etc. I was flipping thru them and saw that old add (Metolius?) of Michael sea cliff climbing in the UK. Kind of hit me in the gut. That one I got to keep.
Where does all the time go?
|
|
Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
|
You rock Tony! How is being in Peru so far? I can't wait for the trip report!!!
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
|
Michael was a fun guy.
I bet he would even laugh that a spelling error reports that he was killed by cosmetics,...
rouge wave
|
|
westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
|
Missing you my brotha.
Wes
|
|
The Chief
climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2012 - 07:21am PT
|
Oh the irony of destiny.
I was replacing anchors at Clark Cnyn the last week in May. Mostly solo. I was over in the "Alcove" trying to decide if I should centralize/combine the anchors for "Craters" and "Whats the Scoop". On top of both routes, contemplating I was. Then outta nowhere, pops up these two heads, one on each route. Unroped and free of course. MR on "Craters" and JB on "WTS". JB asks me as he tops out, "Whatta doing Ricki?" I told em. Instantly JB says I should combine em. Better yet, pull em all. MR starts laughing and says no. One for each.
Well, they went at it in a pleasant way arguing about anchors and bolts. I asked them to please continue their discussion somewhere else as they were no help to my immediate predicament.
That was the last day I enjoyed MR's company. I had a pleasant conversation with him on the deck some 2 hours later regarding rebolting operations and how many out there just do not show their appreciation for all them efforts the few of us give. Michael gave me some very valuable insight that I incorporated into my rebolting philosophy that morning in late May at the "Alcove".
It was a blessing to have had that time with MR just before he moved on.
Thanks Michael for them words of valuable encouragement.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2012 - 07:40am PT
|
That Krispy Kreme t-shirt in the picture at the top of this page is a classic. I have KK shirt just like that one I enjoy climbing in, helps justify my figure. It looks better on Mr Reardon though.
|
|
TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 08:50am PT
|
MR would say, quit bitching, and get on with it. Get out there and get after it! Times 'a wasting. He lived at the "no limit". Who you looking at?
Reardon would say the joke's on us. I would agree.
TY
|
|
10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
|
|
|
May 14, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
|
Bump
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!