Castle Rock Spire Rowell Beckey Hempel Summit 1970

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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
An interesting Galen Rowell account of the FA of the second long, technical route on the Spire from Summit May 1970. Galen, Fred and Mort's big adventure!







donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 10, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
Whatever happened to Mort?
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jul 11, 2010 - 02:03am PT
Very Cool find!! I talked to Galen about this climb one time at one of his slide shows and he acted totally surprised that it had not been freed yet. I guess he was pulling my leg. Thanks Steve.......
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
Mort's name came up on the Arrowhead Arete History thread. He is still around...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=193581&tn=40
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
We must free the Maginot Line!!!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 16, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
Bump and Mort Hempel's father was actually my math teacher and home room teacher in Junior High School back in Berkeley around 1960. Mr Hempel was a very friendly Danish man, everybody thought he was awesome.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2010 - 12:18am PT
Did Mr. Hempel have any exposure to climbing before emigrating?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
Mort Bump!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 23, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
No mountains in Denmark. Highest point less than 100 moh. But there are, I believe, a few small cliffs, and better things on the other side of the Kattegat, in Sweden.
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jul 23, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
Cool article!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 4, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
Secor third ed. lists Mort Hemple as part of a team with Steve Roper and George Sessions climbing in The Gorge of Despair in 1972. They did the FA of the SouthWest Face Route on El Commandante Turret, II 5.7.

That must have been an adventure... possibly the third ascent of that tower by any route in 21 years (it was first climbed by Dave Hammack and Anton Nelson in 1951.)
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jan 4, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
Hey Kris.....GOD is totally on for the the 2011 "to-do list". I'm sure Blair has spoken to you about it. He's itchin' to get back there. Will pick your brain for more info as the 2011 summer season comes around.

Hope you're doin well, bro.

Juicy tidbit alert!:

If you look at the spire shot that Galen took near the notch, one can see a gendarme sitting low against the spire. Rob and I found a Band-Aid can on top of that gendarme that had one slip of paper inside, dating the FA of the 'Second Gendarme' at Oct 1948. Names were too faded to recognize....too bad.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
Sierra bump...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 27, 2012 - 01:11am PT
AWESOMENESS BUMP!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 27, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
One more bump for the real SHIZNIK!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2015 - 11:42am PT
Pure nostalgia bumb...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2017 - 06:46pm PT
Mort Hempel legacy bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2019 - 11:35am PT
Spirit of adventure bump...
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
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