Alex Honnold and new Half Dome / Nose Link Record

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2010 - 02:05am PT
Just got this email from Hans Florine:

TOO COOL! Alex was down and showered by 5pm today.

2:09 on Half Dome and 5:59 on The Nose.

He brought about a 30 ft cord on Half Dome and he brought a full 60 meter rope on The Nose, only used it getting to boot, for the king swing, and on the great roof.

Way to go Alex!

Hans

And there is a great report with photos by Tom Evans here http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-62210
Chief

climber
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:11am PT
Jayzuzz!
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:44am PT
Not a bad day Alex!
S.Leeper

Sport climber
Austin, Texas
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:48am PT
holy smokes!! zehr gut!
Cpt0bvi0u5

Trad climber
Merced CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:48am PT
Crazy! Great sends and proud record for sure!
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal Ca.
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:54am PT
-Just gotta love the guy; stout!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:54am PT
and we have threads here suggesting there is not a God!

Holy Alex My mind boggles

Wonder what the car to car time was. (not that Alex cared much cause he hung out with Tom for awhile, not like he had to race or anything!)

Congrats

Karl
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:57am PT
Wow Alex. It's awesome seeing my generations greatest being ALL generations greatest.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jun 23, 2010 - 03:07am PT
YOWZA!!!!:)
Bill Sherman

Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 03:12am PT
I'm pretty much blown away by this. 8 hours of total climbing for both of them.
Fletcher

Trad climber
Looking for love in all the right places...
Jun 23, 2010 - 03:14am PT
Jumpin' Jehosaphat! I'll be draggin' my jaw around on the floor for the next half hour....

Eric
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
Jun 23, 2010 - 04:26am PT
H-Bomb strikes again !!!

The New World Order is here now
Brian

climber
California
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:52am PT
Well now, that's pretty damn impressive, especially since it just seemed to be a "fun" day for him (i.e., not really rushing or stressed).
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
Jun 23, 2010 - 09:58am PT
Wow. Astonishing achievement.

Anyone know his shoe size?
Slakkey

Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
Jun 23, 2010 - 10:02am PT


Way to Go Alex
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 10:10am PT
God, it's wonderful. Alex is now due more than a "golden piton" award; something more in line with a Nobel Prize for Climbing, I have to imagine. It's obviously insanely wonderful for him to climb at this level because vicariously for us from afar, it's pretty much "once-in-a-lifetime" joy just observing his works of imagination and power.
Jingy

Social climber
Nowhere
Jun 23, 2010 - 10:19am PT
Thanks Chris for bringing this to my attention.


Great job to Alex.


Proud sends
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 23, 2010 - 10:20am PT
Funny to see pictures of Alex. You might not think to single him out by looks to be one of the boldest, hard men in climbing history, but he's bad ass without having much "bad" in him!

Peace

Karl
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jun 23, 2010 - 10:27am PT
Another amazing feat by Alex!

Stunning! The photos Tom Evans posted of Alex cruising unroped high on the Nose are amazing. Mind blowing stuff!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 10:46am PT
I agree, Karl. Really a modern climber, isn't he! We are in the presence of a true and rare climbing genius, no question. And it is not a case of, "Modesty is the ability to call attention to whatever it is you are being humble about"--- he just is relaxed, really bright, and seems awesomely centered.

I really like how in an interview a few years ago, the subject developed that within his family down in Sacramento, he was typically kidded about looking like a cow, what with the big brown eyes. So I guess it's the Cow that Jumped Over The Moon, truth be told now.
Here are some more photos that reveal what a funny unassuming character he is, the first with his climbing partner Sean Leary:
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Jun 23, 2010 - 11:29am PT
Came here to post this but I guess I don't get up early enough. Crazyness.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
Giving hope to goofy looking kids everywhere, he's our hero!
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
OK, forget what I said back on the "Honnold, please don't solo the Nose" thread some months back. Got to give it to the guy.

Personally I'm hoping to drag my sorry ass up Half Dome one more time this summer. Giving myself 3 days. lol But don't worry, I'll let free soloists pass.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
He brought about a 30 ft cord on Half Dome and he brought a full 60 meter rope on The Nose, only used it getting to boot, for the king swing, and on the great roof.

I guess that means he was unroped on the changing corners pitch?

A tiny shiver of fear goes through me just thinking about it......

That dude is mind blowing!
eKat

Trad climber
http://www.ecokath.com/
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
My mind is blown!

50 pitches. . . is that like 10 minutes a pitch?

WHOA!

YAY!

That's keepin' the magic alive, for ALL OF US!

oxox

eKat
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
Bad f'ing ass. Cutting Dean and Hans' solo link up times by what 50%!!!???

If you can do something in half the time it took Hans and Dean, well, that's insane.
tonesfrommars

Trad climber
California
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
W.O.W. wow wow
that's fantastic.

(i'm guessing some french free on the changing corners..? having seen the video of T.C. grunting up it seems like a pretty desperate pitch. And with the pack and rack, etc?)

I'm really glad to see this kind of effort from Alex as it puts less emphasis on the "big free solo" and brings him closer into the realm of the kind of feats croft potter flourine et al. are known for. Slightly less sensational to the casual observer, but no less serious. A little more room for flexibility and just plain badass.

Proud stuff Alex. keep it up.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 23, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
Very cool ascents Alex. I am curious about the details of unroped French freeing. The pictures I have seen of Changing Corners didn't seem to have much protection to pull on.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 23, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
Yeah man, I'm really wondering about some of those upper pitches without a rope.....and shaking my head.

Details CMac? Anyone?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jun 23, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
Way cool!

Be safe, Alex!
luggi

Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
Jun 23, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
Congrats!!
Congrats!!
Credit: luggi
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
Check it out, starting at 37 seconds.
I remember that spot, from my aiders.
Unroped?
Lordy mercy.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KlA77j6xAc
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
Just amazing is all I can say!
Gene

Social climber
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
Perhaps the lad had a daisy belay at the CC pitch(?) Astounding what he's done. A walk in the park.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
gee, what's left to do? a NSEW linkup? The Nose, Steck Salathe, NWFHD and the Rostrum...


amazing beyond imagining... Karl's right, I'm wrong, there is a god...
AlexReinhard

climber
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
wowwwww!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
How about RNWF, Growing Up, and Southern Belle, back to back?

Maybe throw in Karma for an appetizer.....
Randisi

Boulder climber
PA
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
Did he do the sit start?
WandaFuca

Social climber
From the gettin place
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
Wow! What an amazing day for Alex!






As to the Changing Corners pitch--and not meant in anyway to detract from his amazing speed ascent--it looks to me like he is aiding it unroped. In the photo below Alex seems to be standing on an aider attached to the bolt.



Credit: Tom Evans (cropped and enlarged)
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 23, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
Whew....that's actually a bit of a relief!


Did he do the sit start?

BWA HA Hhahaaaa! That's a great one Randisi.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Jun 23, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
The only aid fall we had on the Triple Direct was my partner's ripping three micro nuts from the Changing Corners.

What about the pitch to the Glowering Spot? Also hairy!

This achievement is so far out there. Still can't rap the mind around it. Amazing stuff from the young blood.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Jun 23, 2010 - 03:21pm PT
As to the Changing Corners pitch--and not meant in anyway to detract from his amazing speed ascent--it looks to me like he is aiding it unroped. In the photo below Alex seems to be standing on an aider attached to the bolt.


Yes I assumed that "unroped" did not mean "free solo" for a lot of the hard pitches. Still balls out either way.
Barry Bates

Boulder climber
Smith River CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
Amazing, I think were witnessing the best rock climber ever. Way to go Alex
JOEY.F

Social climber
sebastopol
Jun 23, 2010 - 06:30pm PT
It just seems unbelievable. Like "Hey, those are a couple of great problems to work on today" or something... Awesome!
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 23, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
I know that the link up of HD and the Nose is the story here, but hasn't Dean Potter been climbing the Nose in this style and speed for a few years?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
Hans' site lists his solo time of 11:41 as the record, but perhaps Dean hasn't publicized his times.

Edit:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=281419

States Dean's time was 12:59

And:

http://hansflorine.com/NIAHD/

Discusses techniques.

Hondo probably did a lot more unroped free climbing, which of course is much faster than roped soloing.
yogiclimber

climber
Martinez
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
Congrats Alex!
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
only a matter of time till he free solos it i s'pose? not a statement--just musing.
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
Shower by 5. This makes me think this is BS. No one showers after that unless the shower is beer being sprayed out of the top of the can when you open it.

I wouldn't shower for a week after that. The smell of fear, success, and life would be like a serious spanish fly on the ladies of camp 4.

The dude has got sending power for sure and thats an amazing feat no matter the time it took or didn't take. Congrates!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
Damn!

I just spilled weak sauce on myself......
noshoesnoshirt

climber
Arkansas, I suppose
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
I am weak sauce...
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
Paco, see this re: free soloing el cap.

http://outside.away.com/outside/culture/200905/el-capitan-no-ropes.html
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 23, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
I am.........




































Captain Weak Sauce!!































Credit: survival
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Jun 23, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
Credit: HighDesertDJ
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
Yo... like I said in the Report... he used some cams for holds every now and then and obviously used some aid here and there...great roof ... climbing to the boot etc.... it is not a free solo but an aid solo with most of it being third classed. It has never been presented as anything else. His time was so fast because he didnt have to go back down pitches to collect gear and rope. He trotted down the Death Slabs. It was fun to watch and more fun to shoot! All in all it was climbed in a rational, sensible manner for a man of his talents. He is not suicidal you know!
Tom
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Jun 23, 2010 - 09:01pm PT

the ladies of camp 4.


wat?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jun 23, 2010 - 09:22pm PT
AhmminnyAhmminnyAhmminny ...

WTF? Over.
john hansen

climber
Jun 23, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
I know there are many ways to get down to the valley from Half Dome.

Just curious , what way did he come down? And is it the same way used by other Half Dome / El Cap link ups.

Basically,,, whats the fastest way to get from the top of the Dome to the base of the Cap? Of course, no base jumping allowed..
kevsteele

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:12am PT
Congratulations - what an awesome day. And on his own after the speed trials with Uli. Wish I was in the Valley to have seen it from the bridge, Or better yet been up on the Captain :-)

Peter Mortimer filmed Alex for his film "Alone on the Wall" and it was both a great piece of filmmaking and a great insight into Alex: the trailer is here...http://vimeo.com/11687754
John Galt

Big Wall climber
puerta Natales, Chile
Jun 24, 2010 - 10:15am PT
Apologies I made a typo in my email enews list. Alex did The Nose in 5:49 not 5:59. When I got the voice message at around 9am from Alex I was grinning all day at work knowing he was up there climbing away. Dang, now I've got to get off the couch and go climb The Nose solo in 2:54:30. (Alex cut my solo time in half so I have to return the inspirational favor)

To answer an early post question about car to car time: Alex told me he was considering camping at the base of Half Dome, so his "car to car" time would not be comparable. I'm not sure if he did camp or not.

Alex was very generous to me on the phone after he did the routes and said he would have taken longer than me if he had a wife, kids, job, and had to jug and clean all the pitches. I think he's going to run for president of the AAC. I'd say I would of taken twice as long as John, Jim, and Billy if I had to place pitons and nuts. Everyone has their time.

Hans




Mike.

climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
Thanks for the news...I'd call it inspiring, but it's way more than that. It's like reading a comic book that's nonfiction.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
What about this stuff of Alex soloing the Crucifix?
go-B

climber
In God We Trust
Jun 24, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
Outstanding!
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Jun 24, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
But I thought all you old has-beens told me the "Golden Age" of Yosemite is over?

Congrats on an amazing accomplishment, Alex, and on having a really fun day.

TC
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
That video on the nose is pretty cool.

Crucifix. It's true we're only talking about climbing, which is not that important of a thing in the big picture of the world. But I wonder if it's weird to walk around knowing that you are on a completely different plane of existence than everyone you meet? To know that people cannot fathom what you do?
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Jun 24, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
http://verticalventures.com/blog/tag/alex/

(edit: reposting The Alpine's link in case anybody missed it...)
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Jun 24, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
Too bad he was driving around in his van after climbing Half Dome, though.

Deduction! :)
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 24, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
Scott,

The world has changed. Young, high-end climbers have limited opportunities to stand out. The options are pushing the highest free climbing standards, free climbing big walls, speed climbing, and free-soloing. For lots of reasons, free-soloing and speed climbing are the games of choice nowadays. Look at the videos of Alex and Dean. And count the number of climbers in the Valley at all skill levels that climb unroped.

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 24, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
I dont know, I saw the Pics Tom took.
It didn't look so hard.
Whats the big deal?
Dudeman

Trad climber
Idaho/Beyond
Jun 24, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
Flippin Gnar!!!
Conrad

climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
Alex Honed & Bold.

way to go youth...
phillygoat

climber
portland,
Jun 24, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
Coz,

Your curmudgeon is showing.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 24, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
Astonishing, and a fine display of spirit and ability! I wonder what's next?
gonzo chemist

climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Jun 24, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
unless I'm mistaken, I think A. Honnold Has been involved in FAs. Or at least one of them.

Some stuff in Borneo. Big wall free climbing in the jungle = BADAZZ!


http://climbingnarc.com/2009/04/climbing-video-alex-honnold-others-big-wall-climbing-in-borneo/


didn't he do the FFA of some aid line on the Washington Column last year as well?


Gene

Social climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
After all in climbing history it is the pioneers that are remembered. All the climbers of my day who didn´t establish new climbs are for the most part forgotten.


Playing devil's advocate here, but Peter Croft, Henry Barber, and John Bachar made their names on existing routes, ignoring for the sake of discussion the Bachar-Yerian, an all time classic FA.

Not that it matters at all.

I wish Alex the best. From all I have seen and heard, he's quite the level headed young man.

g

le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Jun 24, 2010 - 06:36pm PT

Neat clip linked above, to First Ascent: Alone on the Wall.

I had no idea he had a camera crew with him up on Half Dome and Moonlight when he solo'd those lines.

eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Jun 24, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
does his mother know about this?
Randisi

Boulder climber
PA
Jun 24, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
Playing devil's advocate here, but Peter Croft, Henry Barber, and John Bachar made their names on existing routes, ignoring for the sake of discussion the Bachar-Yerian, an all time classic FA.

Yeah, those lazy slackers never put up anything new!

I would think the Devil would have a more informed advocate.
Gene

Social climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
LOL.

Yeah, they put up a ton. But they are mostly known for their free solo repeats of existing routes.

Devil

[/off_thread]
Double D

climber
Jun 24, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
Wow, that's impressive. I don't even think I could hike the 8,000 verticle feet and cruise down the valley in that time.

canyonrat

Trad climber
Armstrong BC
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:10am PT
Congratulations Alex! Thanks for the post Chris
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2010 - 02:11am PT
Peter Croft did a lot of new routes and first free ascents, some quite significant, at Squamish and then Leavenworth before making a mark in Yosemite and the Sierra.
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Jun 27, 2010 - 12:50am PT
incomprehensible...

one proud day






on a side note, anyone else find this a bit humorous:

>My generation never climbed to make a name for themselves....

>.... All the climbers of my day who didn´t establish new climbs are for the most part forgotten.


hmmm.... wonder why we're concerned about being forgotten since we climbed in such a Zen state. Makes me wonder where all those articles and pics came from since the FAs had no interest in self promotion....
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
Jun 27, 2010 - 01:28am PT
Watch your heels.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 27, 2010 - 01:53am PT
"Watch your Achilles...and don't be a heel."
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Jun 27, 2010 - 02:35am PT
Alex claimed that "the whole timing thing is not a strong point for me...I stopped to look at two amazing birds on the way down from Half Dome. I'd hate to have to hurry." Still, he admits that he "was hoping to break the speed record on [Half Dome], which is 1:50 or something."

From the Alpinist article. I just think that is such a great quote.
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
Sep 8, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
Honnolds own account of the link up posted here:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-alex-honnold-reports-on-his-recordsetting-half-domeel-cap-link-up

I hiked up to Half Dome with a minimal rack, personal climbing gear, my bivy gear, and a 30-foot line that I use to tow my van
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 8, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
thx for the link...


"I spent easily 10 minutes sitting on Thank God Ledge trying to booty a brand new fixed #4 Camalot."


ah, good to know he's a dirt bag too. :)


all is right with the world.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 8, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
Such a down to earth trip report for an out of this world day. So cool to read his account.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Sep 8, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
Such craziness is beyond my imagination. Thanks for helping me stretch my powers of visualization Alex, but please: this is some sick hard scary stuff, listen to your gut and pull the plug anytime you think you need too. Don't be doing this sh#t for us, cause we're, collectively and totally, not worth it.
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
Sep 8, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
Alexs ascent and from the heart account of it, truly makes a mockery of Edwin Drummonds troll, "Open letter to Alex". Edwins thread was nothing more than an attempt to draw attention to Edwin.
Brian

climber
California
Sep 8, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
Great trip report: a massive accomplishment (total understatement), described straightforwardly without spray, and clear description of the style of ascent. Fecking brilliant, and way inspirational.

Brian
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