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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
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I would love to hear if you Edge, or anyone has any experience in harvesting a burl?
Burls are unique, and much depends on what you will be using it for. Using them for bowls has no relevance here do I will leave that out. Ideally your grandfather as a young man lopped it off, coated it in wax, and set it in a dry, ventilated area and bequeathed directly to you. Then it should be fairly dry...
I generally resaw burls to 1/8"+/- for inlay. I cut a flat face, then another at 90 degrees, then resaw slabs of green burl (harvested 3-6 months prior) and then layer them sequentially with heavy paper in between, then wood blocks and clamps on the outside before setting them aside to dry for a year. I have had success drying green wood with repeated pressings of a hot flatiron, but I would only expect that to work with thin slabs. I also ruined the family microwave trying to dry a thicker piece in it. At least I always used towels to dry off the kids.
For thicker slabs I would plan on air drying it 1 year for every 1/4" of thickness to be sure, though you can probably push that if you cut blanks close to size but still large enough after it dries. Checks and voids are to be expected and can be filled with a colored epoxy (dark brown or black?) although I prefer to mix fine sawdust from the burl with thin superglue, press it into the crack with a wooden stick, then spray it with an accelerator for instant drying and a near perfect repair after sanding.
Good luck, and set a burl or two aside for your heirs while your at it.
interesting joinery for sure--what did you use on the top of the legs?
what glue?---I always cringe at the thought of squeeze out-damp rags or not!--nice job !
The preexisting piece, a chair, that I was matching had 1" round tenons on the leg tops showing through the top rail and glued/wedged. The client decided that they didn't want the exposed tenon end on their coffee table frame, so I stopped them just short of the surface.
Titebond II, breakfast of champions. I use a small brush to paint a thin coat on all the surfaces to "wet" them, then just before assembly I paint on a little extra on the surfaces that will push the glue into the joint as it gets slid together. I had 3 small squeeze outs on the table and just hit them right away with clean, lightly damped paper towels then rubbed dry immediately after with a fresh sheet. After 20 min or so I knock down the raised grain with a well worn sanding sponge of folded 220 grit. If I'm using a water based finish I will wet the whole piece first with a spray bottle to raise the grain, then lightly sand it before applying any finish.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
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It started out as a simple climbing wall.
NOW it's rad. And I love it.
Have fun, get strong, Whitemeat.
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MisterE
climber
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Jul 21, 2014 - 09:22pm PT
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Edge, did you think you were on finewoodworking.com forum there for a few minutes?
Just kidding - great advice!
I didn't have that grandpa - meh...
Erik
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:01pm PT
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Great advice Edge, from what I've researched that is some of the better advice. Some of the rednecks are fun to listen to, but the hillbilly way usually isn't the right way. This tree was killed by fire, which I've heard is supposed to be good for contrast and color. Really I'm gunna have to experiment and see what works. Hopefully in a few years I'll know what I'm doing. Haha.
Thanks Edge, I will definitely try out your suggestions. You truly are a master of your trade.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 22, 2014 - 06:55am PT
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Hey Edge,
That is some interesting joinery!
As far as burls are concerned: I have made many burl bowls, over the years. What is great about burls, in general, is that they have interlocking grain, which tends to not check or split. I assume the American Indian knew this, which accounts for the variety of early burl bowls.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 23, 2014 - 05:55am PT
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Helped my step dad mill some lumber last weekend
1"x12"
I'm adding a master bed/bath this fall to my house. Using a contractor for the framing and doing the rest by myself. I'm going to use the blue pine for the ceiling, not in 1" x12" though.
2x4 true
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 23, 2014 - 06:28am PT
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A friend of mine has a WWII FairbairnSykes fighting knife of the British SAS, and he asked me to make a sheath for him.
He wanted the sheath in Medieval-style, but with a modern belt loop suspension instead of traditional Medieval straps.
So I carved a poplar wood core, and covered it with 2-3 oz leather. The leather was dyed red and burnished with a bone tool. For decoration, I added a black strap laced into the front of the leather cover.
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 12, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
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Cannot wait to see how the Edge sets up his truck.
First, a disclaimer: the Tundra is a 2001 and I did not want to put lipstick on a pig. I had a basic plan in my head, bought 2 sheets each of 1/2" and 3/4" hardwood ply, and built it as I went so each piece could be scribed or cut to fit. Took me about 4 hours which included spritzing on one coat of lacquer in time for the test run to Sushifest.
The two side units snap into place over the wheel well and under the side rail of the cap. Ridges in the bed liner hold each side in place. Just over the wheel well there are three sections of plywood covered in a removable piece of carpet. This is wide enough and strong enough to carry sheet goods when I'm working.
Under the platform are two 6' long drawers that pull out easily on the bed liner but are locked in by the tailgate. I'll make a third, narrow drawer later to fill in the 9" wide remaining space. When carrying tools that are taller than the drawer, I slide the last section of platform back over the middle and this keeps them close to the tailgate and locked in from sliding. The carpet can be left in place to hide the tools, and the million smaller tools (gear) and things can fit in the back of the drawer.
It slept very comfortably at Veedauwoo, although I can't quite sit up fully; a minor trade off. A nice bonus was being able to pull out one drawer onto the tailgate to create a windbreak for cooking.
Unrelated, but I had to shape some 8x8 pine blocks to fit over log siding. Turned out a 10" radius was pretty dern close.
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bamboo
Trad climber
pike co
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Aug 13, 2014 - 04:06am PT
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yikes! the first one or two has a sphincter rating of 5.12 for me!
the danger never really leaves-it just seems like it------
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 31, 2014 - 11:04am PT
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Just delivered this cherry and glass coffee table, shown with the chair that inspired it's lines.
Now I'm off to look at a house above BoCan that I'm pretty sure we are going to put an offer on. That should be good for a decade or four of projects.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 31, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Edge,nice table and truck bed.
Was wondering if anyone was building something lately,I do not get to get away climbing much in the summer months,business is cruising during that time.
Always building and busy as hell.
Fall is almost here.
Good Luck on that home up Boulder Canyon!
Just wanted to say ,you can do most anything on a tablesaw
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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bamboo
Trad climber
pike co
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work was crazy this summer--but got this done
I built these two kids size for my neighbors kids-they are fascinated with archery
nice bracket work willbeer--its nice to see an owner use some architectural components- instead of T-111
that coffee table is awesome-I really like cherry and how it mellows with age
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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An addition to my garage. I realize this is over-built but I wanted to use up the last of my beams, which I made years ago; rather than have them rot.
The corner post closest to the camera is 12x14" solid oak. All rafters are 8x8's. Obviously this will not fall down- but again, I wanted to use up the timber.
The entire house is timber frame, as well.
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perswig
climber
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^^
And I thought I over-built!
(But I always try to under-engineer, first)
Nice work all. Esp like Wilbeer's façade work.
Dale
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Wilbeer, nice corbels! Are they gold leafed, or painted? I too have made crown with the table saw, but can honestly report that I never used Trex! Great solution for those pesky curves.
Steve, and you wonder why your body is giving out. You're doing the work of at least 10 pyramid builders there.
Love the bow, Bamboo!
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Scratch built model of the Mustang Reno racer, the 'Red Baron', a P51 that crashed on landing during a race in the 1990s.
This one is a group effort, I've got three older ones that still race out of six I've bought or built.
Three of my Red Barons crashed hard or mid-aired while racing.
Progression of work, pre fitting components.
Ready for covering.
Installation and testing of servos in covered wing.Preparing covered fuse for engine and other components.
Ran into snafu with motor mount, scoop, and cowl.
Back to drawing board.
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Hey Bushman,
Beautiful work. Where are your contra-rotating props? That was a feature I always liked on the original version.
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Time to pick out a beauty from the hangar and go practice for end of month race at Sacramento Area Modelers next Warbird race.
Got to keep my fingers in the sticks weekly to keep a handle on these 160 mph sweethearts.
Building will have to wait.
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