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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
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Nearly every slab climb in the Valley feels sandbagged to me, but I'll just chock that up to a lack of skill in that area on my part. I've often found myself getting lowered off a bail biner saying "Sh#t, we must be on the wrong climb. No way is this thing 10a, more like 11a!". Then after getting down, consulting the guidebook, and scouting around some more, I come to the realization that yes, in fact, that was the 10a I had intended to do.
It also seems like I climb a full number grade lower on glacier polish vs good friction, on all types of climbing. As for some specific climbs which are of a style that I'm a little more familiar with:
Dromedary 5.8+, long difficult chimney near the Owl Roof.
Entrance Exam 5.9, polished chimney with big chockstones blocking the way.
Moby Dick Left 5.9, extremely flared leaning chimney. Felt just as hard as Moby Dick Ahab (10b)
Cramming 10d, couldn't get off the ground. But maybe it's not actually that hard and I just suck at this particular size of crack.
Mark of Art 10d, and I'd consider liebacks to be a style of climbing I'm best at. But this thing is just ridiculous, no rest and it just keeps going and going.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 11, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
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I believe it is time. I will return to the valley this fall and lead this climb that they call "Reed's Direct."
I sure wanted to try leading at least 1st pitch of it this fall till I saw your thread. I mean is it really that bad? Can't even get any jams to start the 1st?
Funny story: This weekend I took a friend from High School and my climbing gym to climb outside for his first time. 1st day I taught him how multi-pitch works etc at Cosumnes river gorge (great place with short climbs). Next day I took him and my other friend up Scheister in Sugar Loaf. Both were SHOCKED that 1st pitch is a 5.7, refused to believe it. For 2nd pitch I took a 5.8 variation to the left (I know Scheister is a 5.7, but someone told me that left var is 5.8), and he found it easier than the 5.7 pitch before. Although I found it pretty psychologically draining due to not having any good pro for about 20 ft at one point (while having to get over a mini roof, although easy, was scary with no pro). So with the rating system etc it becomes what it is when you gain enough technique/experience to climb it? Since there are so many different types of climbs (slab, cracks-finger,hand,fist etc, face, OW, chimneys) and for new to climbing people (like me) it is hard to improve in multiple areas fast. I noticed if you climb 5.8 face it does not mean you will be able to climb a 5.8 slab or OW! And when you do learn to climb that particular type of climb, it becomes a lot harder with runouts. Whole different game. Climbing is complicated buzinezz. One of the reasons I like it.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
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reeds is stout 5.8 I say
now its sandbagged
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
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Cramming 10d, couldn't get off the ground. Cramming is hard. I did New Dimension a couple of days later and the supposed crux at the top of pitch 4 felt really light in comparison.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 11, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
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Nutcracker should perhaps be renamed Anklecracker.
ps A fair number seem to have broken ankles on the mantel on the last pitch. Werner? Jesse?
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2011 - 04:24pm PT
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Anders - it should actually be renamed to Shoulder Dislocator. I nearly killed myself the second time i led Nutcracker.
Vitaliy - it's really not that bad, now that Ive climbed it 3 times now. I finally got to lead it last Saturday and as Pat says, save your arms, use your feet. When I first wrote this post almost 1.5 years ago I was a total noob with about 3 months of climbing experience outdoors. And as for the first pitch, like I said, I was a noob. Just reach up high and place a good piece for the start. Reach up a little higher and get an ok jam, commit and go. First pitch is fun and a good warm up.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 11, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
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Nutcracker should perhaps be renamed Anklecracker.
How so? I have only done it once, like ten years ago. I remember it feeling easy, didn't really put much gear in but you always could if you wanted to.
El Cap base routes, lots of those were sandbags I remember.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 29, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
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Bumpin' a good thread.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Nov 29, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
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All the class 4 routes in Roper's.
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Nov 29, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
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Ten Years After seems high in the grade. Awesome climb, but strenuous and sustained, with slick rock. Good gear but tiring to place it, and the crux moves are up high, when you're feeling it.
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