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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
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he used the bass line as a spot...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 17, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
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Ahab 10bma "My Ass"
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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Led this earlier this year, definitely 5.9. Locker jam to locker jam. But tiring! Wait till you squirm up the 3rd pitch! Hardest part of the 2nd pitch for me was not losing my cams in the gaping abyss behind the crack.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
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last weekend we climbed with Salamanizer - Plumb Line on Elephants and both agreed, that last pitch there which rated 5.8 -is mother of all sandbags. It actually felt harder than mentioned above Reeds p3, Ahab and Cleft. I'll try to compile TR for Plumb Line soon - it is hidden gem
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Jun 17, 2010 - 06:02pm PT
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Good point, Alexey, I think there are other pitches out there which are
drastically underrated, but don't get the attention because they aren't
the hardest pitch on their climb.
Plumb Line (if it actually got any traffic, anyway) would be subjected to
a lot of scrutiny about the rating of the 5.10d pitch, but the "lesser"
pitches can be wildly off.
Big congrats on doing that climb.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 17, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
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The mother of all sandbags is at Carderrock....
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
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What is the opposite of sandbag? Would that be Jamcrack p2 5.9?
There is no beta info on Plumb Line that I could find. Where is it exactly?
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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Jun 17, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
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Mason , next time you do p2 ; aside from the great jams feel around inside for the hidden
incuts and edges. There really is no move harder than 5.9 on
that pitch. Save your energy and relax ... youll move easier.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
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I forgot about that one until you mentioned it the other day. Oye! And, I might add, an ambitious cool down for someone having done Astroman, the day before....
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 17, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
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There's this .10a next to Kaukulator, some Cashner/Reid thing I believe. HAF.
Hairline? Me nor my strong-ass buddy couldn't touch the thing, even though the crux looks like an easy lay-back ramp. WTF?
The Gauntlet. Right. Sez Kim Dao, you look at the thing and your arms explode. Same for Space Invader.
Anybody climb (and confirm Long's story) on Central Pillar o' Frenzy?
Also, I did some .10c up on Last Resort one time...Thasher!! (I'll find the name later when I can get my hands on a guidebook.)
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 17, 2010 - 06:58pm PT
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I think all Valley climbs are rated much easier than they really are.
I think many climbs outside the valley are rated harder than they actually are. It's the Y.D.S.- yosemite decimal system, many of the defining (standard setting) climbs for the ratings are in Yosemite or Tahquitz.
I always thought the boombox was to drain extra energy out of Werner or else the solo would have been too easy for him.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 07:52pm PT
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Lost Arrow Chimney. Took me longer than the Salathe.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
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Gable/Willoh routes are usually somewhat sandbaggie but they try to rate routes in the 'old-school' fashion.
I had to bail off the 5.8 Mason was talking about in the OP. I was kinda silently chuckling at him when he bailed. I said, "give me the rack, I'll do this". Told kev that tape is for pussies....
After taking like 3 slider falls out of the OW awkward flare, I was done and needed massive amounts of beer and protein. I was blown!!!! I had to sit down and carb up.
Some day, Kev/Eric will publicize that route.
Same day I did onsight a 'real 5.9' clip up they did. Short and sweet.
They put up good routes!
EDIT: Kev, God bless him, knew I was a better friction/slab climber and suggested I try the 5.9er. That 5.8 is an ass-kicker though. The BAWC should do it. I think Ed has.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2010 - 08:04pm PT
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"I think all Valley climbs are rated much easier than they really are"
You don't climb outside much, do you? or east of California?
experience is a cool thing.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 17, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
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Experience is a COOL thing.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jun 17, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
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It's always been considered one of the standards, so how can it be
sandbagged?
Well the other routes are no longer rated to that standard. I would have no problem with it being a standard if it actually was. But ratings are like language, words get meaning from how people use them currently, not how they are defined in some dusty tomb.
But the real problem is the notion of rating a climb from the hardest move. The OP might think the second pitch to be 5.9 if he only had to climb 8' of it a time (with longer rests than a few minutes of hangdogging). I would prefer climbs to get a rating for the hardest move and a different rating for the overall lead.
The first pitch has a stiff, off fingers/squeeze hand move. That comes down to a very specific technique, but I don't know that it is really sandbagged.
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Chief
climber
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Jun 17, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
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Orangutan Arch @ 11b.
The Cringe was fluff by comparison.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 17, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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before I did it the first time I was told it is 5.8 that feels like 5.10. The jams are pretty solid you got to admit.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2010 - 08:35pm PT
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¿The first pitch has a stiff, off fingers/squeeze hand move?
-it does? high on the pitch? Low? i did it four or five times six months ago and don't recall this...seemed like a lite enduro pitch with no crux... was one of my first .9 leads in the early/mid 70's, i had no idea how to jam, then...
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