Michelle
Trad climber
the f*#king peninsula.
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I hate you Generator Crack. The days I spent thrashing. vomiting. failing. good for humility.
I met these dudes in the Valley one day and said, hey, lets go climb this, its pretty stout. dudes are like, no prob, we need a warm up for the Shield anyways (uh, what? ok). Dude 1, thrash, thrash thrash win. me, not pretty. dude 2, less thrashing, still win. dude 3, float. I think that was the last time I tried to climb that bastard.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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That cam on Edge of Night was in there last year. Did you replace the anchors on that rig??? The anchors on the second pitch of Chopper are total crap... Just FYI.
Generator Crack is way harder than Cream... which is 5.10b tops.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Chad,
Yeah, the axle ends were getting a little light rust stains, but not too bad. Alexey found a description on Mountain Project where a guy mentioned it was in the crux in March this year. Looks like it could be hard to climb around it. It was very helpful to be on ascenders to remove it.
Roger is replacing the bolts on the routes in the vicinity, mainly the sport routes below it. There are 2 old bolts on Edge of Night about halfway to the chockstone. Only 1 bolt was shown in the 1982 topo, so I wonder if it was a protection bolt from back in the day, and a second one was added. Not sure.
I believe the only standard anchor on Edge of Night are the rap slings around the tree on top, which are good. There is also a sling around the chockstone belay; not needed for rapping if you have 2 ropes.
We will do all the anchors, including Chopper. I figured out how to bushwhack to the top of the crag, by reversing the descent on the right end of the crag. It's loose and dirty; I don't recommend climbing up or down it (there are rap slings on a tree above it for routes that top out), but think I can get up it a couple more times.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Just out of curiosity are you guys going to replace the blind reach bolt on Chopper Flake if it is even there any more? One of the weirdest clips anywhere and likely not necessary since cams came along.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Steve,
I'm not familiar with the blind reach bolt on Chopper - is it at the spot with xx in the 1994 topo, or somewhere else?
Generally, as you indicate, replacing bolts on wide cracks that were first done before cams is a tricky question, as gear often makes them unnecessary.
If the bolt was not original but has been there for awhile, then I believe the rule Roger uses is to leave it in place and not replace or remove it.
If it's original, the answer is harder; maybe also leave it in place.
If added recently, remove it unless something changed and made it badly needed (example: if only protection was in a flake that came off).
Tough question. Usually we don't like to deal with these cases - prefer obvious rebolting tasks where bolts are original and need replacement even with modern gear....
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