Generator Crack

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2005 - 12:53am PT
A few Sundays ago Gary, Aaron and I were finishing up the day beating ourselves up on Generator Crack, trying to become masters of the wide. We pulled into the power station driveway and there looked to be quite a crowd. Anyway, we took a peek around the corner and there was no one around! Strange, but we felt lucky and put a rope on it, lucky us.

Aaron went first and got a very good workout... his first time grappling in that slot, trying to unlock the secrets.

Next was Gary, who has got the middle to top sections pretty well down by now. While Gary was inching his way up a young woman came round looking for her friends, "no one around when we got here" and off she went. A bit later she returns with her gear, "couldn't find anyone", "would you like a ride?" and she said yes.

In the conversation that took place while Gary was finishing up, we learn that Lisa had only been on Generator Crack once and that she felt it was very strenuous. Gary gets lowered and Lisa ties in. Part of her prep is to shed her pull over and pull on her mocassins... not the "standard" offwidth equipment. Then she ascends... not fast but in great control. The whole pitch. Some where in the first third she is resting and states "gee, this is strenuous", but she isn't out of breath, she isn't sweating, indeed, she doesn't seem to be working very hard at all. Lisa is making this look very straightfoward and easy.

Quite an inspiration!

I was next and she watched until I came out the first time, then she had to leave... her friends, who had found us in the meantime, where off to Crimson Cringe and she was psyched to do that. Off she went...

If anyone knows her she might want to look at the pictures and arrange to get some copies from me...





Holdplease2

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Nov 16, 2005 - 08:02am PT
Ed:

You will likely never find Lisa, as it seems that you have encountered the "generator crack angel". You lucky soul, it is a rare appearance, indeed.

She is the maifestation of the tortured soul every young climber girl who has been taken to the base of the Generator Crack by some dude who has toproped it into submission (nothing wrong with that) over four grueling years and then brings his "young miss" to see him at his finest. He then pretends to go for the onsight.

Next, of course, he cheritably offers her "a ride", just to show what a burly manly man he is because, like, the climb is so hard.

Anyway. I'm surprised she showed up in photos at all. Usually we just see a rope and a locking caribiner dangling in the crack.

So nice shots.

:)

-Kate.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2005 - 08:18am PT
possibly so, but instead of wings she drives a Subaru stationwagon with Utah plates and is, by her own account, hanging out in the Valley ("until the weather changes").

But you may be correct... on our account (and I am being a bit defensive here):

1) a better description of Gary is "grizzled" and of me "Jerry Garcia teddy bear", not burly;

2) we are the submitted, Generator Crack has resisted our attempts to send it clean and has scraped more than a pound of flesh from each of us in the proceess (I know, a gross image, but I started taping my ankles because my partners objected to climbing up in my blood);

3) I offered Lisa a ride before me in the hopes she would depart before seeing just how un-elegant my technique is in it, I was in no rush to get on the bastard, however, and this indicates your angelic hypothesis may have some legs, she stayed for my attempt and actually shouted encouragement as I musculed my way up the bottom part of the crack, and only left after my fall (not from grace for sure, my feet stuck, her parting encouraging words: "great foot jams Ed!").

I do feel lucky to have got the pix though... and if anyone sees her about the Valley, I'd be happy to give her copies.
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Nov 16, 2005 - 10:49am PT
Hard to disagree with Kate, but I believe hers is a very nice fairy story. If Lisa where an angel, her wings would be pretty apparent in the two photos.

The kind words for Ed before her departure suggest very strongly that the apparition in question is the goddess of off-widths. I am sure if Ed posts the pictures in an appropriately reverent location in his home, his crack climbing will surely improve. With sufficient and frequent practice and continued humility, there is surely a good chance that he will soon meet this goddess again.

Oh, and Ed, you did not mention that you had her sign the normal model release before her departure. Of course, if she is in fact a goddess, that does not matter, since she has no legal rights.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 16, 2005 - 11:57am PT
sigh, the offwidth angel, I've searched for her, my whole adult life.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Nov 16, 2005 - 12:27pm PT
hehe, that ain't no angel, just another rat. the faded red shoes are a dead giveaway.

not only are they dangerous on off-widths, but beware the invitation to ". . take a lap on this great hand crack" especially if you're in indian creek and she's not wearing tape.
The Schmutzvink

climber
The WAY past
Nov 16, 2005 - 12:30pm PT
i guess she liked me more than you, Ed

because when i met her, she peeled off both the sweater AND her halter top
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 16, 2005 - 01:12pm PT
"". . take a lap on this great hand crack" especially if you're in indian creek and she's not wearing tape.""

People use tape in handcracks in Indian Creek?
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Nov 16, 2005 - 01:17pm PT
people use tape on face climbs in indian creek. you're not even allowed to camp in the bridger jacks anymore w/ out tape gloves on, they've got a LEO and everything
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 16, 2005 - 01:22pm PT
Damn rangers

My scar tissue thanks GAWD I never camped at bridger Jack.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2005 - 09:14pm PT
TIS - no commercial interest - however, if I ever do communicate with Lisa and she doesn't want to have her image public I will certainly comply.

Schmutz - to quote Leonard Cohen from Sisters of Mercy

"And you won’t make me jealous
If I hear that they sweeten your night
We weren’t lovers like that
And besides it would still be all right"

All I needed out of our encounter was the inspiration to send the crack in the same style as she did... she was good.
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Nov 17, 2005 - 06:20am PT
So how tall is Generator Crack? I did it once in the early eighties, and have no recollection even though I still consider it my proudest highball send. Thanks.
mynameismud

climber
backseat
Nov 17, 2005 - 08:13am PT
That is just one of the Generator Crack Angels. I climbed Generator Crack with another one. Then went home with her, well ok I tried. She sent me on my way. So I stalked her untill her will weakened. She made me a beautiful dinner last night. She is mine now and you cannot have her. PPPHHHHHHTTTTTTT.
That is all. Have a nice day.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
bump for WideWednesday™ chatter....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 17, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
hahaha, didn't see the mynameismud post before. too funny

good bump
Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Jan 17, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
Women Ninja the generator crack and dudes thrutch & punch the anchor. I don't know how much blood you shed in there, but each time I've topped out, I coulda starred in any Sam Pekinpaw film.

The mysterious budding porn star is gone Ed, she's bunking with Jon Krakauer somewhere in Port Alexander. I hear their writing a new crime novel based on the Laci Peterson murder. Who knows, maybe John Travolta will direct it?
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Jan 18, 2008 - 07:53am PT
Yeah good stuff.. I climbed it back in 71 when it was rated 5.9 and it was pretty stout for the grade... seemed that doing it in the RR blue boots made it even more fun... of course that was 60 less pounds and many years ago! Don't think I will be going back.....
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 18, 2008 - 08:39am PT
I tried it once or twice in 1970, and concluded that I would need several pints of plasma on hand right there at ground level in order to make it back to Camp 4. I don't think a full King Tut tape job would've spared me.

I'd like to plead EFI (Eastern Face-climbing Ignorance), but unfortunately I was in the presence of, well, not exactly a crack angel, but the next best thing (from a climbing perspective, mind you): Peter Hahn, who was kind enough, after demonstrating just how easy the whole thing is, to lavish praise on my "sophisticated" (meaning ineffective) footwork and "creative" (meaning wrongheaded) body positions.

Oh, I know, it was those damn Robbins Shoes...

susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Jan 18, 2008 - 09:37am PT
Cute blonde dusts up WideCrack Rock Stars like Hartouni wearing a sports bra and moccasins.

Normally I'd claim Urban Legend, but there are the photos! Good on ya Lisa the Angle of GC.

Nice report. As for her not being cold...hard to get cold while doing the W I D E.

~Susan
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Jan 18, 2008 - 09:39am PT
Still cant get up that frickin thing. I'm gonna blame something, just give me a minute to come up with it.

Never saw any angels myself, just sweaty bleeding self. But maybe I wasnt looking hard enough!
TradIsGood

Recently unshackled climber
the Gunks end of the country
Jan 18, 2008 - 09:42am PT
Sports bra. check. Moccasins. ok, better eye for shoes.

Cute? Ed said "young".

But what do we see in the picture to support cute?

uh huh. OK.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 18, 2008 - 09:44am PT
I saw a fallen angel there once
clustiere

Trad climber
Rock Ridge/ Oakland CA
Jan 18, 2008 - 10:40am PT
Yeah yeah, I met her and she let me take off the halter top. She likes me more thann youuu , she like me more than yyouuuu.
billygoat

climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
Jan 18, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
I'm pretty sure that's the Lisa that was Ivo's girlfriend for a bit. She's really nice, and pretty strong too. I'm pretty sure she worked ski resorts in Utah in the winter and bummed around the valley and what not in the summer.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Jan 18, 2008 - 12:16pm PT

Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jan 18, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
For anyone wondering... The pic in the article above is of BadAss Momma. Great, steep OW climb!

Where's the rest of the article, Juan?
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
Jan 18, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
One of my old climbing partners was quite a practical joker. He knew some of his buddies were heading over to the Generator Crack, so he got there early with an effigy of himself he had made by stuffing his usual climbing outfit including his always present hat. He suspended said effigy near the top of the crack, and when his buddies arrived they thought it was him topping out free solo. Then of course he cut the dummy loose...
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jan 18, 2008 - 02:52pm PT
hahaha That's just wrong, Kris!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 18, 2008 - 05:54pm PT
sent it first try with muthafukkin (c)bone-crushing authority.

american legend, bisshes.
del cross

climber
Bay Area
Jan 18, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
I went once with a friend who hadn't been there before. While parking the car she looked
out at the crack on the side facing the road: "That doesn't look so bad!"
Lost Arrow

Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
Jan 18, 2008 - 06:03pm PT
Sorry, I will have to scan the extra pages Tue.

Juan
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 18, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
Now, that's not what I meant, Clust, you quick wit. When are coming to wide wednesday?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
ow-angel bump
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 6, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
I went once with a friend who hadn't been there before. While parking the car she looked
out at the crack on the side facing the road: "That doesn't look so bad!"
it is true- it does not look so bad if you have big gear, quart of RedBull, headlamp and long summer day to summit
Credit: Alexey
Credit: Alexey
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 6, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
Left side in on that side.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Sep 6, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
Guess you got that 6 out finally.
jstan

climber
Sep 6, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
Would you believe in the early seventies I never went down to look at this crack? Still have never seen it.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 6, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
Rhodo-Router,

> Guess you got that 6 out finally.

Yes, Alexey's #6 is out of Blind Faith and back with him, although I don't know if his photo of Generator is new and if he has more than one #6:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1903416&msg=1912893#msg1912893

I got to meet Alexey last Saturday night for the cam return, what a nice guy. The next day, I found another big green Camalot, all by myself this time, and got it out in 10 minutes also. It was a good 3 weekends for getting (4) big cams unstuck!
[Edit:] it was on Edge of Night, and it was an old style #5.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Sep 6, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
Where did you find the second #6, Clint? What luck!

The easiest cam "recovery" I ever had was a single-stem BD #5. Dead of winter, trod through snow to get to the climb, and there it was, clipped to a bolt at a 3rd pitch anchor on the SW base of El Cap. How it got left there I'll never know.

I put up a note in Camp 4, made a post here, and asked around at the gym... nada. Now me and Nutjob share that cam back and forth as needed. What a mystery.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 6, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
Isn't there still a girl fixed at the crux from a couple of Facelifts ago???
Michelle

Trad climber
the f*#king peninsula.
Sep 6, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
I hate you Generator Crack. The days I spent thrashing. vomiting. failing. good for humility.

I met these dudes in the Valley one day and said, hey, lets go climb this, its pretty stout. dudes are like, no prob, we need a warm up for the Shield anyways (uh, what? ok). Dude 1, thrash, thrash thrash win. me, not pretty. dude 2, less thrashing, still win. dude 3, float. I think that was the last time I tried to climb that bastard.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 6, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Damn Genterator Crack...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 7, 2012 - 12:05am PT
That cam on Edge of Night was in there last year. Did you replace the anchors on that rig??? The anchors on the second pitch of Chopper are total crap... Just FYI.


Generator Crack is way harder than Cream... which is 5.10b tops.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 7, 2012 - 12:54am PT
Chad,

Formerly stuck cam at crux of Edge of Night. <br/>
Someone tried to pull i...
Formerly stuck cam at crux of Edge of Night.
Someone tried to pull it straight out, but there is a small lip inside the left side of the crack which prevents this.
I rotated it down, moved it down, then out.
Credit: Clint Cummins
Yeah, the axle ends were getting a little light rust stains, but not too bad. Alexey found a description on Mountain Project where a guy mentioned it was in the crux in March this year. Looks like it could be hard to climb around it. It was very helpful to be on ascenders to remove it.

Roger Brown rebolting at the Camp 4 Wall, 2012
Roger Brown rebolting at the Camp 4 Wall, 2012
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger is replacing the bolts on the routes in the vicinity, mainly the sport routes below it. There are 2 old bolts on Edge of Night about halfway to the chockstone. Only 1 bolt was shown in the 1982 topo, so I wonder if it was a protection bolt from back in the day, and a second one was added. Not sure.
I believe the only standard anchor on Edge of Night are the rap slings around the tree on top, which are good. There is also a sling around the chockstone belay; not needed for rapping if you have 2 ropes.

We will do all the anchors, including Chopper. I figured out how to bushwhack to the top of the crag, by reversing the descent on the right end of the crag. It's loose and dirty; I don't recommend climbing up or down it (there are rap slings on a tree above it for routes that top out), but think I can get up it a couple more times.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 7, 2012 - 07:55am PT
Just out of curiosity are you guys going to replace the blind reach bolt on Chopper Flake if it is even there any more? One of the weirdest clips anywhere and likely not necessary since cams came along.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 7, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
Steve,

I'm not familiar with the blind reach bolt on Chopper - is it at the spot with xx in the 1994 topo, or somewhere else?
Generally, as you indicate, replacing bolts on wide cracks that were first done before cams is a tricky question, as gear often makes them unnecessary.
If the bolt was not original but has been there for awhile, then I believe the rule Roger uses is to leave it in place and not replace or remove it.
If it's original, the answer is harder; maybe also leave it in place.
If added recently, remove it unless something changed and made it badly needed (example: if only protection was in a flake that came off).
Tough question. Usually we don't like to deal with these cases - prefer obvious rebolting tasks where bolts are original and need replacement even with modern gear....
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