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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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May 16, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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Fun house slab at bowman crag. See the thread that describes it. A bit out of way though, off hwy 20 west of Donner.
5 minute approach. Easily leadable and topropeable. 7 routes 5.6 to 5.10b 60-90 ft high. You'll have the whole place to yourselves.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 16, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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I'm Gumby, Is that a pic of the Stomach? not familiar with a lot of the names. it's pretty much directly above 90' wall (a ways though, and bushwhacky). here's another view from the eagle lake trail. it's 2/3 of the way up and 2/3 of the way to the right. you can see the two main cracks of 90' under the branch of the big tree in the foreground for reference.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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May 16, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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Is the climbing any good? I hiked up there 7 years ago but haven't made it back. This year is a route year though...
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 16, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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I didn't climb. I was hiking up there last year with girlfriend and we saw someone else who told us about a couple bolted lines
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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May 16, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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I have a friend who wanted to climb up there on the Stomach. We went after work, it's further than we though, but not too far. We hike to the top and set up a line on a bolted anchor. We each got one lap in before it started getting dark, so we bailed. It was not very interesting climbing, but I'd go back for another, longer look!
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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May 16, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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My guide only shows 2 routes.
Anyone been to Venturi wall?
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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May 17, 2013 - 03:02am PT
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I already asked this dude to keep this little crag off the internet on MP. Does anyone else think that not every crag needs to be published? I dunno I think it's kind of fine how it is, word of mouth.
If you live around here, it's certainly not a secret crag and it's certainly not the best rock around but I have little doubt this place will be overrun quickly if it were published.
To answer the OPs question....
Kindergarden Wall at Donner Pass has to be about the best I know of.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 17, 2013 - 03:34am PT
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and because you asked, and after you insulted me, i removed the directions.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 20, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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I probably would have agreed about Ballbuster Rock not being good for kids, but we had fun there today. One nice thing is that it's small enough that running back and forth to the top wasn't any problem so i could belay, have them walk off, then I could run up there and set them up to rappel back down, and now they have a little experience doing that. It also makes it a good place to show them a bit about basic anchor building too.
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go1dens4
Trad climber
Melbourne, FL
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May 20, 2013 - 10:05am PT
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I remember 90 ft is good because the walkin is so short so 2nd ++ on that one for the youngins...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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May 20, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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Ball Buster is horrible.
All the info I have for Bottle Creek is a napkin from Sprouts that J scribbled lines and numbers on.
The parking is already tenuous as is, especially when SAR and LTCC classes show up. I agree with the berger brycer... locals freely share the information and it is far from secret. That would likely change if 100's of bay area folks dloaded topos from the web and started swarming every new crag.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 20, 2013 - 11:11am PT
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^Yeah it was Friedo I should have asked. He started the sentence where he mentioned Hotfingers with your name so I got confused.
The parking is what gave it away for me. Any time I see cars parked somewhere strange I think, "hmmm, I bet there's climbing around here." Worked there, worked when i was in the Rubies. i think today i'm gonna go check something out on upper Kingsbury by the Fox and Hound cause I saw some dirtbagmobiles theres when i was leaving for the Rubies a couple months ago.
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