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Messages 1 - 137 of total 137 in this topic |
Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 7, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
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So by the title, it's obvious that we never reached our objective. No less though, we had a great adventure.
The trip started off with some exceptional luck. I brought along my wife, her friend, and her friend's 6-year old to spend the weekend up there and enjoy the park. As we rolled in at 0200, there were no campsites available for 45 miles except maybe at Kaweah Lake. We drove through Buckeye Flats and found a space that was reserved through the weekend but abandoned. I guess the occupants had enough camping and moved. We kept the space and had no issues.
As usual, we began the trip with standard gear for the approach.
In addition to the hospital "bunny suit," we employed Ivy Block, Technu wash, and permethrin. So far, no rashes or itching so this stuff may be effective. We had two sets of clothes and cached the first set after the initial ridgeline of thrashing through poison oak and other scrub brushes.
I was relieved to remove the long sleeves and pants as well as the suit in the 90+ degree weather. Nighttime temps only fell into the 60's.
The term "trail" is loosely applied to any number of dozens and dozens of animal trails that carve every hillside. Using a combination of the GPS co-ordinates posted on Summitpost.org, a topographical map, and a compass, we were able to navigate in the general direction. The most useful information from the GPS co-ords was the elevation as it kept telling us we were usually anywhere from 100-500 feet below where we should have been. This culminated in an interesting 500' scramble up moss covered slabs and through dense thickets of manzanita to arrive at the final cleared plateau that marked the now casual traverse to the approach gully (Thanks Mooch et al.). Arriving 10 hours after leaving Buckeye Flats campground, light was fading and after spending 30 minutes to find a flat spot we settled on something 100 yards above the trail. This "flat" spot ended up still being at an angle with multiple large rocks scattered throughout. This made for a somewhat uncomfortable night especially given that the entire tent moved about 2 feet and placed us even more squarely on top of these burdensome rocks. Eager to get up at 0430 to start the climb but even more eager to get off the rocks, we finally made our way out and broke camp by 0600. The approach up the gully required some scrambling and some more bushwhacking around the larger cliff bands. We were making fairly decent time up the gully and had covered the majority of it within the hour.
Jordan was approaching slightly below me and so careful not to dislodge any small rocks onto him, I clambered onto a 4' x 3' x 2' boulder. Suddenly, the entire boulder gave way allowing me to drop down to the next rock. Unfortunately, the 1-ton boulder lagged a little bit behind me and decided to land squarely on my ankle before rolling off. The good thing is that it missed Jordan and only got me.
After the initial pain subsided (thanks to 800 mg Ibuprofen) we got me to a flat spot in the drainage and figured out what to do. I made sure I had enough food, water, and clothing to spend 2-3 days up there in case a ground evac was necessary. We could already tell that my ankle was fractured and there was no way just the two of us could get me out of there within a week.
Thus the epic return began for Jordan who spent the next 7 hours getting back to the rangers. The stories of SEKI lived up to its name with encounters of rattlesnakes, more poison oak that one could imagine, bears, mosquitoes, and dense brush. The clothes we had cached were shredded and scattered by bears. Jordan was either following one or one was following him as there was fresh bear scat still warm along the trails he followed. We did take a bear canister for food as a precaution and never had any troubles.
Once Jordan found the camp host, the comedy began. It seems that most of the rangers and staff have never heard of Castle Rock Spire or the Fin and kept directing all rescue efforts to Moro Rock and the surrounding drainages. Providing exact GPS co-ordinates was not much more help as they kept transmitting only minutes among each other and failed to include degrees. Finally, Jordan found a ranger that knew something about anything. This exceptional ranger basically helped organize and arrange the entire rescue, assisted by his incident commander.
Two hours after Jordan arrived, the first bird was sent into the sky. After sitting next to a creek bubbling, churning, and gurgling for 10 hours, I had learned to ignore the sounds as the thoughts of an approaching chopper. However, this time, the sounds kept getting louder. Because of the heat and the direct sunlight, I had crawled to a nearby manzanita bush and laid on the ground underneath its meager shady coverage to escape the brutal onslaught of heat. My thermometer was registering 90.4 degrees in the shade but 140.7 degrees in the direct sun. Not wanting to be missed, I crawled back out and began waving my orange rain parka. They flew over once, then twice, then finally approached again and hovered over me. Not having my glasses on, I couldn't figure out what they were signaling before they took off. After calming down seeing that my salvation had departed without me, I rationalized they didn't have the necessary gear to drop into me or extract me from my location. I succumbed to thinking I was going to spend the night up there as the clouds were now moving in and may be signaling a storm.
30 minutes later I heard the whump-whump-whump of an approaching helicopter again and saw the short haul line with a ranger attached to it. He was dropped in and began loading me up on the backboard and bosun's bag. Once secured, the chopper came back in and extracted us and all gear. The views of the Spire were incredible! It was a free scenic ride of the park. The winds were only a very mild breeze (2-3 mph) so looking up at the helicopter it felt like we weren't even moving. Peering over my shoulder, I could see the ground, the river, the surrounding landscape and realize how remote and wild SEKI really is. 3 minutes later we were back on the ground at Hospital Rock. My wife had informed the guys that I was a doctor so when I taught the medic how to find my pedal pulse all his colleagues got a good laugh out of it and told him that's what he gets for having a doctor as a patient.
Another series of jeering and laughter from the peanut gallery (aka "friends") ensued before loading up into my truck and heading back to Los Angeles to have my ankle x-rayed and examined. Along the way, I heard of Jordan's epics, both on the trail and off with the rangers. I also heard about a quote from a by-stander watching all the commotion: "Is that his foot in that cooler?" This was said in regards to a cooler a ranger was carrying towards the make-shift drop zone in the parking lot. He looked at her with a bewildered look and said, "No, it's Gatorade for the crew out here. Want one?"
Pulling into our apartment at 2300, we unloaded the truck, dropped off some of our passengers, and threw me in the shower to wash off two days of poison oak, sweat, dirt, and grime before heading to the UCLA hospital. Working there sure has its privileges and I was seen without a wait. The x-rays revealed a fractured fibula (Weber A) and would not require any surgery. It was splinted, I was given crutches, a prescription for Vicodin, and then sent home for a good night's rest back in my own bed.
(example of the type of fracture I have, real images would show much more swelling - I'll try to get a copy and upload it)
Big props go out to my partner, Jordan, the pilot of the helicopter, the ranger that dropped in to haul me out (Jack Carreo), and the other support crew on the ground including my wife who drove us all back.
If anyone knows of anything the SEKI SAR teams needs, please let me know. I'd like to try to pay them back for their services and assistance. It would have been a hell of a hike out without them.
So now the epicness and allure of this elusive spire grows. I wish Mooch and his partner the best of luck and success in climbing the spire. Despite failing to install the summit register in its place myself, I will pass the new one along for Mooch to send to its glory atop the "most difficult peak in the High Sierras."
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Gene
Social climber
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Bill,
Wow! Glad you made it through OK. Nasty picture of your foot. Heal well and quickly.
g
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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I have to thank Jordan for hiking seven hours to get help. As for Bill, he forgot to tell you how he was planning a trip to Peru this summer and... Well, we will see...
As for Sally's six year old. Hats off to the kid for being so good while we waited for them to short haul Bill out. He loved seeing the helicopter. The kid didn't know what a broken leg was and wanted to touch it. I so love that kid.
AFS
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oh man, what a bummer, Bill!
Glad you're alright. Heal up!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Ho-ly crap Bill!
Glad you got out OK and in good humor. Peru isn't going anywhere. Wouldn't surprise me if you toughed it out in the cast.
Heal quick!
Skip
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JayMark
Social climber
Oxnard, CA
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Wow, what a hellish approach. That shot of you in the bunny suit says it all, what a struggle. Good idea on the bunny suit. Glad it worked out as well as it did. It sounds like things could have gotten much worse. A leg fracture back in a remote area like that is a real problem. I hope you heal quickly and get your trip to Peru in this summer.
John Moore
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
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eKat, after working with SAR teams I am well aware of that. I was hoping also that someone might know what is currently on their wish list so I could try to help out with that.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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It was certainly an adventure! Thanks to everyone involved who helped "retrieve" Bill (the whole SEKI SAR crew, Anastasia, Sally & Robert)!
EDIT to add: Good luck next weekend Dave and crew! The climb looks FANTASTIC!
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Just thought of this:
Adventure is a four letter word: SEKI
Ha!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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lol, nice Jordan.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Oh Bill and Ana! I am so sorry to hear of your epic. I'm sending good and abundant juju for the healing of the bone. You'll be out there again in no time!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Heal up! HellaofA TR too!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Hoa! Epic!!
Bill, weren't you just warning me about the vicodin a few days ago?!
Jeez man, I was gonna invite you to the mountains to shoot. How long till you're off the crutches?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Wow!
Michelle just called me to let me know about this. I'm glad you got out safely. Jordan deserves a medal.
A huge measure of thanks & gratitude to the SAR team.
Heal soon & I hope you still make the Peru trip..
William
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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If only for feeling the bear crap to tell how close it was,...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Help!!!
I can't find the pedal pulse!!!!
Yer gonna die!!!!!
Best wishes for a full recovery, nice TR Dude!
Mucci
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MisterE
Social climber
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Hope you heal up fast, Bill!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there bill, say, oh my... a good trip-outing is NEVER the time to learn how broken-ankle-patients feel... oh my... ;)
but then, you know that, and extra well now... ;)
say, i heard from anastasia's facebook page, on my...
get well soon.. and god bless you with a speedy and good
recovery, and a nice summer, still...
thanks for sharing your whole adventure here....
happy healing:
once again, god bless..
:)
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jeez Bill, you will do anything to get out of a high altitude trip!
Sorry you're not going to Peru now. I don't feel any better, but perhaps next year will be "our "year". I'm glad it's nothing "serious". I'm sure Anastasia is pleased to have you staying home. Is she still going to Greece? Heal well and fast, Bro . Sorry about your mis-step.
Tony
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Ow. Broken bones are no fun. Hope you are doing as well as is possible.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Holy Smokes, Bill. Glad you got hauled outa there in 1 piece.
Yeah, that's an "adventure approach", eh?
Jordan is my hero of the occasion. Good bro's are worth their weight in beer. or gold, if they're small.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Good bro's are worth their weight in beer. or gold, if they're small.
Hahahaha! It's good to have the SkullMan back - laughter is the best medicine for me, although Dr. Bill may disagree...
;)
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jordan's beer consumption would be costlier than his weight in gold...
So yeah, he is worth his weight in gold.
;)AFS
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Sunshinesmile
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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WTF!!!! OUCH! Hope you get better soon!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Maybe THIS gold?
Oh, yeah, that's the ticket.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Hey Jordan! Will you drink this stuff? I do owe you...
:)AFS
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
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eKat, right again. I was hoping to help them purchase anything they really needed, thus using money to show my appreciation.
Mucci, you got me laughing with that one!
Piton Ron, I can still shoot a gun with or without crutches. You name the place and time and I'll show up. I just got a chance last week to take out one of my new AR's and get it sighted in. With the 9x scope I was hitting every silhouette out to 400m. They didn't have anything further otherwise I would have been going for that as well. A case of 5.56 ammo in Montana is half of what it is here in California.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 08:45pm PT
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Old E is always a good bet. So are Cobras.
Ihateplastic, we were talking about your shirts. It would be nice to earn one. We didn't come across any ticks out there but we're not complaining. The poison oak, rattlesnakes, mosquitos, and bears were enough.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Full Value!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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A "case" of ammo purchased in Kalifornia?
Thought you had rationing.
Naturally we are talking about one of those silly "Kalifornia" ARs with the ten rounder permanently screwed into the magwell that you have to disassemble just to load. (snicker!)
You don't want Feinstein and Boxer on yer azz.
BTW, check out the 1987 AAJ article starting on page 76.
I had a similar experience with a boulder after the FA of the Monitor.
Article has a photo of me jumaring on the FA of the Merrimac 3 days later with a crutch clipped to my harness (I led 10m on aid too).
They passed on the crutch summit photo, but shooting?
Fuggin piece of cake.
Gimme a call cowboy. LOL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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a TR all about adventure climbing!
great read,
heal fast!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Bill: Sorry that "shit happened."
However your "good-humored" trip report was great.
A big adventure and an ride out.
Sometimes you do everything right, you are perfectly prepared, the party is experienced------and "shit still happens."
"Nerve Tonic" helps with the recovery.
Best Wishes.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
not very much, recently.
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Great TR, especially so soon after getting hurt! Get well soon!
That is great t-shirt, IHP.
Eric
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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It's a lucky break! That's why I am so happy.
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Nice epic report (ER?)! Rock climbing would be a lot safer without all the rocks.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Epic!! Good thing they had helicopter short-haul capability, otherwise MAJOR epic.
Thanks for sharing. It's hard to fit all that adventure into one tiny line on the spreadsheet! :-)
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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That rock never had a chance. <insert snare drum rim shot>
The foot in the cooler quote was classic touron captured at its best. I had an ache in my side for a few minutes after laughing out of control. Damn near pissed my drawers!
Talked to Rene yesterday. He thought you two were makin' your way skyward on Saturday. He and another partner were on the South Face of Moro Rock (scene of the REAL rescue :P.....anyone got the directions to Lodgepole's snack bar???). He was eyeballin' the Spire most of the day....too bad he didn't spot two doods wandering from ridge to ridge. (nudge, nudge, tease, tease).
Glad you guys are alright. Heal quick Bill!
Damn this thing is getting a rep!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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"getting" ??
oofa
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Wow! Really good to hear you made it out and all is okay as it is! You were REAl lucky that timing was as it was. All this last week the rangers were doing short haul training. This very dangerous procedure has to be practiced so that everybody is in sycn. I know they do it in Yosemite all the time and we kind of assume that this is just the way its done, but here in Seki it not the norm. Our pilot is really experienced in the Parks many different situations of flight and he is the key in this whole pull out. Several people in the Park knew we were climbing the South Face of Moro and might have thought that this was related, we were looking over there as our day went along and were wondering how it was going and even thought we saw you at one point, but I don't think it was you guys. It was a really hot day! Good Luck to Mooches party, I wouldn't want that pressure, but I guess its self induced!
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Bill, glad to hear you are safe and sound. Stoked on your beard brother, I haven't seen you in a while ;-)
Much props to Jordan.
An adventure indeed, the chopper ride looks fun!
Be well my friend.... Mike
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Levy, skully, ana, mike: thanks for the kind words. The hike out was kinda stressful since I REALLY didn't want to get lost, snake bit, bear bit, or busted up since then we'd be in a pretty big pickle.
anastasia: "Jordan's beer consumption would be costlier than his weight in gold..."
A truer statement has never been uttered! ;)
Well, today the poison oak finally made an appearance. On both elbows. Not too bad though. I forgot to decon with the tecnu when I got down the last hill and sorta got preoccupied.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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deus ex machina?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Bill,
Hope the ankle is starting to feel a little better. Worry not, the spire isn't going anywhere - it'll be there for you later!
kev
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Radish,
Why is your pilot wearing a flak jacket? ;-)
More to the point, I think he needs a second opinion
for his flight physical; dood looks like a walking/flying coronary!
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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The guy that picked me up also told me they just did their recurrency 3 days prior to the pick-up. He then said if this had been a week earlier I would have most definitely spent at least one night up there while they were co-ordinating to get their training in.
The poison oak has made an appearance on me as well. Hands and forearms are the worse. I guess we took off our haz-mat suits a little early.
Again thanks for all the kind words. Clint, that sums it up.
I left a page in the summit registry notebook stating our attempt. Mooch, you should be receiving it either today or tomorrow. Good luck!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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I'll keep my eyes peeled for the "passing of the torch". Munge and I are hoping to hit 'Aspire' on The Fin the next day after The Reg. Route. I see the snow is still reaching up into the notch (thanx Rene). Should make for an interesting bivy up there. Photos and such to follow...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I like sleeping on ice. Makes my sack shrink before I ever get on the rock. Pre-emptive shrinkage.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Good luck you two. I really hope you can map out that semi-trail. I have a feeling that Bill and Jordan will be returning for round 2.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Well, we're glad(I am) that you got the F outa there.
Munge, I like your ice line. Can I borrow that sometime?
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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an open spot to stop on our approach up the first ridge... which was the wrong ridge...
crucial gear for the CRS approach!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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I'm reading that you will be "replacing" the summit register because the old, original, historical scroll got weather beaten. I sure hope that you leave the original, old, historical one too. It IS the record of the ascents. I don't think that Clints, though good, is complete. I'm for leaving the original one up there and a new one too!! That historical climbing history scroll belongs up there and not in someone's climbing trophy case!!!!
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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I agree. The new summit register Bill put together and sent to Mooch is nice and waterproof, with a grease pencil that won't run and some regular shorty pencils. I put a copy of Clint's list in there and laminated it too.
edit to add: I wonder if the old original scroll could be "restored" by some professional or at least decrypted to figure out what was on it. There should be impressions from where people wrote on it. Just a thought.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I met the guys who found the old nearly illegible register last summer up at the Needles. Keesee was there too. They had it with them. I saw it and photographed it. Oddly the only readable names were ours. It was weird.
I wrote their names down, the guys who had it, but the info is elsewhere right now. Also maybe Guyzo has that too. Anyway it looks pretty far gone.
Radish, was that photo you posted above showing all that snow in the gulley taken recently? Last weekend? Thanks.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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I'm glad we're all on board with keeping the original scroll intact and left up there! Its kinda like not adding any bolts to an established route.
You never know what the future will bring..........
Kris.....The photo was taken this last Saturday 6-5-10 after we finished the South Face Route on Moro. Here's one that shows the Castle's better also taken last Saturday, can you see the guys going through the bushes?.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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All of that snow does not really fit with Bill's description from his original post:
The approach up the gully required some scrambling and some more bushwhacking around the larger cliff bands. We were making fairly decent time up the gully and had covered the majority of it within the hour.
Also bill's pic of the injurious boulder shows no trace of snow despite the fact they were an hour up the gulley. I also don't remember any cliffbands in the main gulley. Is it possible they were off route, perhaps one gulley toward the west?
I'm not trying to raise any issues with Bill and Jordan here, just want Mooch and Munge to have the best info for their go.
And good news you all got out safely. I'd bet that is the first time someone has been helo'd out from there.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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I swear to the pic being taken last Saturday on my part. I'll bet your right about the first rescue from the Castles. I flew through the back towers last November, but no Heli rescues till this one. The only Climbing death in the front country of the park was at Hospital Rock when a guy fell free soloing the lunch ledge route back in the early 80's.
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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Got a chance to fly through the Castles last November myself, beautiful ride.
Rene may know better, but you may not even be able to donate to NPS. I know it ended up being huge trouble when a swift water boat was attempted to be donated to a local Sheriff's SAR team.
Glad you got a good ride out and it was a non-incidental rescue. Heal up and hit it again soon.
See Rene, the SMR "curse" begins again. We're totally available and all trained up and SEKI gets the rescue...sigh...there's always next time. I'm thinking it may be a bad year. With the water running like it is, and the amount of people I'm already seeing in the river, we may just be bumping into each other soon up there.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Snaps, You guys get a Helicopter and you'll be in!
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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We're working on it. We have the pilot already, just a few more bucks and we're golden, wanna make a donation? I'm heading up to Wyoming to teach a knots and ropes class next week. Let's get a couple routes in when I get back.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Thx Kris. The right info is key. When we went in to recon we got to the gullies. But we could barely see the rocks thru the clouds/mist.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2010 - 03:16am PT
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Radish,
We had no intentions of removing the original records up there. Our plan was to consolidate anything into the Pelican Box I was bringing up there for the new register. The box we had contained a new notebook, Clint's spreadsheet (laminated), an oil based pencil, several lead graphite pencils, and a sharpener.
Kris,
It is possible we went up the wrong gully. We followed the GPS co-ordinates from Summitpost.org. It pinpointed us at the start of the approach gully.
It is correct that there was no snow where I got injured. The run-off was running through there stronger than any of the other gullies. When I took the GPS co-ordinates for my location, it indicated we were 0.35 miles from where the gully took off from the trail.
After talking to Mooch, he indicated he had his gear cached one creek East of where we went up. He said the last time he went up there he went straight up through the woods to a point where it opened up and then traversed West into the gully. I know which point he was talking about as I found his beer cached in the creek. Don't worry guys, it's still there and we left ours in the gully we started up. If you guys don't find them, we'll retrieve them when we go back up.
The Fin is so big that our perception of how close we actually were may have been off.
When the helicopter took off I had a good view of the gully we were in and it definitely went directly up between the Fin and the Spire and contained plenty of snow. We were probably about 500 feet away from the bottom of the snow tongue and the notch didn't look too terribly far away but again perceptions could have easily been off. When I look at Radish's photo from across the valley it does look like we still had quite a ways to go.
Once I get my GPS unit back from Jordan I'll post the co-ords to where we were at the time of injury. If we were in the wrong gully I'd really like to know as we are planning on going back up there at some point. It could potentially save us plenty of time, energy, and another broken ankle.
Bill
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2010 - 03:57am PT
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I just went through the photos that Jordan took. The first one looks up the gully from where I was injured. My foot is on the pack in this picture. The spire is on the far right, the fin predominates the picture, and the sub-dome below the fin is on the left. We were just below the dome in the gully.
Those of you who have been up there and climbed this, such as Kris, William, Joe, please comment to let us know if we were off track or not.
The second picture was the GPS co-ordinates I took at the location. I wrote them down and then Jordan took a picture so we would have the info in three places for redundancy.
Bill
Edit: I just downloaded Google Earth to figure this out a bit more and used my co-ordinates. We were definitely in the right gully but we were only half way up it. We were 0.35 miles from the trail and 0.38 miles from the notch. From talking to Mooch the other day, it still sounds like his approach might be a little easier. We'll talk again after this weekend to see how it works out for them.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Yes, surgeons are known for thoroughness. They like being exact with their statements, measurements, and time. I really don't think Bill knows how to be any other way.
He sadly doesn't have my islander's vague sense of time, or ability to generalize one's location to encompass the size of a city. That talent is all mine.
AFS
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Bill your coordinates show you to be in the right place. Here's how it looks on google to me. The gps points are very close but not exact. The trail location is from summitpost. Bringing the view around to SE puts the formations sort of in perspective.
From Radish's pic I would expect you to be in snow by there, but the foreshortening of the long shots plus Google Earth's wierd perspective is obviously throwing me off.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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That's where I had Bill mapped to as well Kris. We couldn't have been to far below the snow, but we were further from the spire than we thought while we were ascending. We were only at about 5600 - 5700' by my watch altimeter and GPS unit, which is well below from the notch, but the going up was pretty easy (comparatively).
Bill, your GPS unit is in your truck, either in the passenger seat back pocket or where you set your phone down. I definitely saw it in the truck while we were driving home.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jordan,
I'm driving the truck and guess what... I found the GPS exactly where you said it was. I swear we would never have looked in that pocket without your help. Dang it Jordan, somehow we owe you MORE BEER! At this rate you're going to be drunk all summer.
:)AFS
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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Kris,
That is accurate. The distance from the trail to the injury site was taken off my GPS unit when I took the co-ordinates. The unit is one of the first generation Garmin eTrek's so it's accuracy can be off by even a couple of hundred feet but at least it was close enough for the helicopter crew to find me first fly-by. I'm going to need to learn some pointers from you and Jordan on using Google Earth. That was my first experience with it last night. I tried to pinpoint the notch and the injury site then draw a line from them for the distance. In direct lines, we were 0.38 miles from what I thought was the notch.
It really puts it in perspective how tough it is to move anywhere in that place. We thought that an hour of moving up that gully put us much closer but it was wishful thinking. We knew our elevation and where we needed to get to for the notch. There were parts of the approach through the thickets where moving 100 feet in an hour became an accomplishment. Having such a wild place makes that area even more fun.
Radish's photo does make it look like the snow comes much farther down but I'm thinking it might be an illusion from the white granite reflecting the sun directly as well as the water in there reflecting the sun. That part of the gully was in the sun from 0930 until about 1930.
Jordan, we're going to have to figure more time for the approach next time or figure out a better way to get into that gully.
Bill
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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CRS in-a-day!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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As I understand it, the old register is a goner. Brutus made another one as a replacement to the old one whern they did Cinco De Mayo in '05, which also met its doom when the 2009 party found it completely destroyed by water. So, from what I understand, Bill is sending us the new (and only) register.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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But I still gather that the one found destroyed by the '09 party was the only register up there.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jordan, we're going to have to figure more time for the approach next time or figure out a better way to get into that gully.
Recon, recon, recon....
However, a 6 pack of Moose Drool and I'll get you up there in 5 or 6 hours (depending on how many Gatorita breaks you take), loaded packs and all. ;)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Roper's guide refers to a first gulley (with water) and then the main gulley. He says to head directly up the main second gulley.
Vernon's SEKI guide refers to a stream and then the main gulley. He suggests hiking up the ridge between the two (west of the main gulley) until almost across from the Fin.
We started up the between ridge, and dropped into the gulley at snow line (well below the fin.) The SEKI guide has it right, but how far to push the ridge depends on the snow level. If there is good consolidated snow get on it.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Vernon's SEKI guide refers to a stream and then the main gulley. He suggests hiking up the ridge between the two (west of the main gulley) until almost across from the Fin.
Bingo! Yep, hike up throught the woods, right of the main gully. Pop over to the gully when the thicket thins out just below The Fin's base about 200 or 300 yards.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Using the photo Kris posted, do these lines show the "trail" and "ridge" between gulley/stream?
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Yeah, that pic is pretty accurate.
We headed immediately up the gully from the trail past a bit of 4th class then got to a steep section (unclimbable with water) and went into the woods for a bit and re-entered the gully. The gully proper is bomber, the sidewalls are a loose conglomerate of boulders, rocks, and dirt. I was in the main gully and Bill went up one section of the side to bypass a bit of scrambling where the rock fell. I would still think the gully is fine, just don't mess with the sides. It's a pretty big gully. Climbers left is crap, climbers right is pretty solid, middle is bomber.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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del cross, we did head straight up that gully and that's what I was referring to as to the "small cliff bands". They were maybe 20-30' at a time but it was definitely grungy 4th class. We headed off into the woods a few times to get around them. We should have just stayed in there and it would have probably made the approach much easier and been boulder free.
We actually camped somewhere between the two gullies the night before. We couldn't find a flat spot and suffered for it. All this discussion and images (thanks Clint and Kris) is making a lot more sense. The going through the woods was somewhat steep in places but very easy to walk through relative to the previous approach and to the gully.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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As Bill said though, I'd probably go up the woods first and cut into the gully later than we did though.
i agree the approach "could" be done in 5 hours with packs, but you gotta have that trail WIRED. I thought with our GPS, maps, etc.. we'd be pretty good, but it's just so thick and steep everywhere it's hard to ever tell where you are. The printed out topo maps with notes all over it and GPS waypoints definitely kept us in the right general direction and I doubt we'd have ever made it to the approach gully without them.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I had to use my MPS (Mooch Positioning System), else it's madness trying to get in there without GPS and full armor, swords, and halberds.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here are the same lines, but on René's photo:
(Just my guess on the CCC "trail" - I have not been up to experience this nightmare).
Good luck up there - I wouldn't promise photos until you are safely back at home with camera in hand! :-)
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oh ye of little faith.
I promised photos....period. ; ) Nahmeen?
I'm tellin you guys.....recon before you do it. Besides, it's good exercise....not only physically but also an exercise in humility.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I said this on the other CRS thread, but it's worth a mention here.
The reason we were able to walk in there in good time, all the way up the gulley to a nice bivy on ledges at the base if the Fin, without any glitches was simple. The day before we spent a couple hours at the highest overlook on the road up to Moro Rock with maps, the available route desriptions and binocs, studying the terrain across the canyon.
This "big picture" situational awareness enabled us to know where we were and where we were going all the way in. We had no GPS and the trail was completely unmaintained. Understanding the lay of the land there beats the heck out of starting blind in the bottom of the canyon and fighting your way from one GPS point to the next, not really knowing where you are.
Anyway, good luck to you guys next weekend. Since Dave has the approach wired, it should be cake. Be careful.
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WBraun
climber
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Yeah
I was up on Moro Rock once too and looked over there at those fine features.
Then I scoped the approach and Ho man!! looks tough but definitely would be worth it for that awesome place.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Has there been any recent work on marking and/or clearing the trail? It sounds like there is growing interest in the area, and a weekend or two of trail work would be worthwhile. You could even call it an Adopt-a-Crag, and combine it with social stuff.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Has there been any recent work on marking and/or clearing the trail? It sounds like there is growing interest in the area, and a weekend or two of trail work would be worthwhile. You could even call it an Adopt-a-Crag, and combine it with social stuff.
I would argue that a lot of the beauty and intrigue of the area comes from it's remoteness and difficulty. It's not just a climb, but full on adventure.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jordan,
> I wonder if the old original scroll could be "restored" by some professional or at least decrypted to figure out what was on it.
David Hickey posted a full transcript of what was in the register as of fall 1991. A handwritten version of that would probably be nicer to find on top than the spreadsheet table? But it could take some work.
Here is David's transcription, which includes a few typos.
Castle Rock Spire register
Placed on the Spire by the 9th ascent parted 6/29/63
1st Ascent Castle Rock Spire April 27, 1950. Will Siri, Phil Bettler, Bill long, and Jim Wilson.
2nd Ascent May 28, 1950. John Salathe, Anton (Ax) Nelson, David Hammack, Manford Sanuelson, Richard Michael, and Charley Carley Cranford. (15 hours)
3rd Ascent June 17-18, 1954. Roy Gorin and Mike Sherrick. (12 hours)
4th Ascent October 1, 1955. Mark Powell and Don Wilson. (5 hour 30 min)
5th Ascent June 10, 1956. Charles Wilts and Jerry Gallwas.
6th Ascent July 22, 1956. Mark Powell and John Ohrenuhall. (7hours 30 min)
7th Ascent June 21, 1959. T. M. Herbert and David Rearich. (7hours 30 min)
8th Ascent July 17, 1961. Charles Pratt and Andy Lichtman all day
9th Ascent June 19, 1963. Steve Roper, Little Joe McHemon and Mark Powell. (6 hours)
10th Ascent July 6, 1964. Chuck Pratt, Mark Powell, and Beverly Powell.
11th Ascent May 19, 1969. 1st Ascent West Face. Galen Rowell and Fred Beckey (2 day)
12th Ascent regular route June 8, 1974. Greg Donaldson, Ian Raistrick, and Walt Vennum. (what happened to Frost an Herberts N. Ridge Ascent)
This register, as it is, was placed Labor Day, 1983. By Jack Huntamer, Giant Forest and Matt Hoggard, Santa Barbara, (Welcome to Castle Rock Spire!)
9/4/83. Matt H. (12th asct?) Hey all you low Budget-low Lifes. On top. Good rout (Regular) Later! Beautiful Day, Splendid Climb J. B. H.
13th ASCT (?) see other Reg. 9/8/83. All FREE 5.10/5.11 Pitch above tunnel 5.10+ Pitch above 5.6 chm 5.11? (A1). Last Pitch 5.9. Rob Raker and Dick Leversee.
July 6.1984 So Tired. I forgot the date. Came in from Paradise Ridge Down hideous gully, never again! Did reg. route, Bivy on top. Will rap an climb Fin to get out! E. C. Joe, David Hickey and Jim Marchesin.
May 15th 1988-LA-RCS 15th Ascent 8 hours. Miguel Carmona and Alois Smrz. Did “Silver Lining” on the Finn 2 days ago. This ranks among the best weekends ever. Weather suparb. Reading the Fegister-What a company. We must be the first plaine people up here!! Cheers
July 1. 1989. 15 hours from Buckeye to the top of Spire. Staying the night on top. Great Weather. Art de Goede and David Hickey. Splended night.
May 6. 1990. Kris Solem and Guy Keesee. This is fobulous-WOW!
5/6/1990. 2nd party for the day Meggo Kicks. Did Reg Route All Free 5.11c no falls. Did “Silber Lining” yesorday, very good. Like Faervew Dome in Tuolome. Bill Leventhal and Raehal Weil. Time for libation! “How can the wind with its arms all around me. I feel lost in the city.” Yes hart of summer
Stu Polack, and Tom Hunt 22nd Ascent? Reg Route Free 10/13/90. Part of an elite few it seems. In from Buckeye last night, up Reg Route, hopefully down and out tonight. Great Weater! (Modesto)
---
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Bill, Jordan, If you guys are still interested in making a donation to Seki SAR, here's a contact number..Susan Mills....559-565-3111...Tell her it is for the Seki SAR account. Since the park doesn't charge for rescues and budget cuts have taken there toll here too, any donation will be much appreciated!!
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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Radish,
That's exactly the info I was asking for at the end of my report. I want to give back to those guys after all the hard work they put into getting me out of there. Despite being a "straightforward short haul", being part of a couple of SAR groups in the past, I understand how dangerous any mission can be and how thin budgets can be.
Bill
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D H
Trad climber
Exeter CA.
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Jun 10, 2010 - 10:18am PT
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Bill,
Terrible sight for a sober man, here’s to a fast recovery.
A few thoughts on the approach from Buckeye Flat Campground: the first time I climbed the Fin, we hiked up the main gully that goes up between the Fin and Spire, then on the way back, we used the ridge to the right of the gully—this seemed easier. On subsequent trips to Castle Rocks I always used the ridge approach. When I wrote the Castle Rock section for the SEKI guide, this was the approach described.
Clint: For the Spire register—Mike Daly and Art DeGoede climbed the Spire I believe sometime in the summer of 1990 but not sure on the exact date.
Dave: Enough talk--take care and go climb the dam thing! Good Luck!
DH
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 10, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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Dave-
Dam straight! Other than Jim and Brutus, I could never get a committed partner to do it throughout those years. Too much whining about the approach. Munge hates the PO and gets it badly. But he's all over this adventure regardless. Now that's a mad man with a passion for suffering. My kind of partner!
Driving to the park now. And, yes, the talk is over.
DOIN' IT!
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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...donation to Seki SAR, here's a contact number..Susan Mills....559-565-3111...Tell her it is for the Seki SAR account.
I emailed about that last night actually. I just gave Susan a call and left a message. Man, that helicopter saved us from a GNARLY walk-out and we're very appreciative!
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jun 10, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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Good Luck to you both!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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This should be the time to end the drought and get on top of the Spire - good luck!
And I hope Bill heals up nicely and summits with Jordan next try. Hopefully the approach goes easier the second time, and better luck avoiding the poison oak, too.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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Thanks DH and Clint. The PO is in full force today. I got it bad. Ivy Block and Technu didn't provide much protection although my face did escape. My fingers are so swollen right now I can't get my ring on my finger!
Jordan, let me know what you get back from the emails or I'll call Susan today.
Without that helicopter, we'd still be hauling my a$$ out of there right now!
Given our experiences now with the approach and the better knowledge of the approach to the actual spire, courtesy of the great group on here, the next attempt should be much better.
I'm thinking the fall (maybe September) now but I'm a little concerned about water. Is there still sufficient water sources after the snow has melted?
Bill
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 10, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
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Best of luck to the mooch and munge show!
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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del cross, you beat me to it. The helicopter ride definitely avoided it.
On the way in we wore "bunny suits" from the OR that I picked up on my way out of town. We also used Ivy Block on our hands, faces, ankles, wrists. We wore long-sleeve shirts and long pants.
Here's where I screwed up: after the first ridge I figured I was out of most of it so we cached our PO gear near the first cairns under some rocks. I don't handle heat very well and it was in the 90's going in. Even in the shade I was beginning to feel some heat exhaustion coming on (it's happened to me about a half dozen times so I'm hyper-aware of it now). So what I did was change into my shorts and t-shirt. I reapplied Ivy Block and some sunscreen then started hiking again. I quickly realized I was bush-whacking in PO again and pretty much knew I was screwed. We got to a spring and washed up some, used Technu wash, then reapplied Ivy Block.
As has been mentioned, there is PO all the way up to the spire until you are above treeline. Jordan continued to wear long pants which I believe protected him much better.
The places where I got PO were all uncovered. My hands, forearms, knees. I specifically bought clothes from Goodwill before leaving so I could throw them away when I got back to the car. I should have kept wearing them until we were ready to climb. The one other item I was trying to remember to get while we were at Wal-Mart on the way out of town were some cotton gardening gloves to wear. They may or may not have helped.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
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obviously a helicopter would be a way to avoid it(the PO).
HA!!! That was my exact thought too ;)
I really only got the PO on my arms and back of the neck a bit. I decided on the way down the last ridge that I was already covered in it and just wore my short sleeved shirt, thinking I'd use the tecnu when I got down. Unfortunately I forgot all about it while getting the rescue underway. The PO is only located in a t-shirt pattern so the long pants must have done the trick.
The beauty of PO is that it's a hapten and the response (rash) is immune mediated, therefore it gets worse and comes on faster with each exposure because you're essentially increasing your immunological memory to it. Awesome, right?
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
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I just heard back from Susan Mills.
To make a donation to SEKI SAR, make check payable to:
Sequoia Parks Foundation
Attn: SAR DONATION
P.O. Box 3047
Visalia, CA 93278
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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I threw everything that would fit in my washing machine at home, filled it with water and tecnu, let it agitate for a minute to mix it all up, then let it sit for about an hour and then finished running the cycle on cold. Then I ran it again with regular detergent on hot (like the tecnu recommends). I threw my shoes in as well. I still haven't decon'ed my pack and trekking poles, but was going to give them a tecnu treatment then soap treatment.
We figured pack covers (trashbags) would just get shredded. The hill we came up initially (one over) was horrendous bushwacking and semi-shredded the bunny suits.
Thanks for the info about the PO. It's a bummer, but not bad enough to keep me outta there ;)
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 07:00pm PT
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DC,
We didn't use pack covers or shoe covers. When I mention washed up a bit we just rinsed the grime off ourselves and then applied Technu to areas exposed - face, hands, arms, legs.
Once back, all laundry is getting washed in a washing machine. Shoes and packs are being hosed down and washed with Tech Wash. I am pretty sure that any pack covers would be thrashed and not much use. I used separate ditty bags inside my pack for all my clothes, sleeping bag, etc to try to prevent cross-contamination.
I really think the biggest key is to have a clothing barrier between you and the poison oak. It's an oil/protein that causes the rash so soap and water should be able to rinse off anything on the gear. Once it gets on skin it gets absorbed same as a skin lotion and then you're pretty much SOL at that point.
Bill
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 10, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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Thx Nate and Clint.
Almost out of here.
Mooch is on site. Low clouds. Forecast doesn't call for warming bad til Sunday. He's reconning the first part of the approach.
Big thx to Radish for the help too!!! (g'naw mean?)
Ivy block, Technu, etc. all packed. No excuses.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 10, 2010 - 07:47pm PT
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Mooch came by work here and hooked up with a permit. Got a campsite right by the trailhead in Buckeye campground. Big storm clouds covering Moro right now.....should be an adventure! If you have ATT on your phone, you can call out from up high out there and order pizza, there should be coverage!
Regarding Posion Oak, the amount of the oil on a pinhead will infect 500 people. Strong stuff!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jun 10, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
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Go GIT SUM boys!!!!
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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What is the "2002 helispot" you (Clint) refer to on the list? Is that the spot I'm calling the plateau? It's at about 5200 ft and had a bunch of chainsawed manzanita and even one huge tree that was cut down. It's where the trail stays at a constant elevation all the rest of the way to the gully. Bill and I were trying to figure out why that was even there.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 11, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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I know with all this talk we should, as Dave said, just go up and climb that spire, but I gotta work. Its been really great to be able to see it go this way and personally I love reading all the stuff everyone's posted about the spire, the approach and the history. This is the kind of rockclimbing reading I live for and it gets me inspired to climb!This is wilderness adventure! I have given blood, sweat and tears to the approach. Thinking back, I might have 25 times in to go out there and failed summit attempts. I'm totally into helping others with their adventure! THanks Everyone for the input! So, Bill and Jordan, I'd love to head out there with you guys when you go again. I hope to get that spire in my summit bag too and I bet we won't get lost! Mooch and Munges ascent will be the anniversay this weekend of Brutus passing when he was on his way to go up there to climb it last year...........................
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 11, 2010 - 12:54am PT
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Thanks for pointing that out Rene.
I'm going to hoist one for Bruce right now. I didn't get to know Bruce well but we met a few times and climb a bit. I'll think of him whenever I see Castle Rock Spire from now on.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 01:54am PT
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Jordan,
The "2002 helispot" on the list was copied from an old forum thread which discussed trail work. I recall it was on summitpost, but I am unable to find it now. It may have been deleted. Trail work may sometimes be a sensitive issue for the NPS. For the same reason, I left the names out of those entries.
I haven't been up there, so I don't know where the helispot is. I recall there was a fire up there, so it was probably established at that time.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Jun 11, 2010 - 10:10am PT
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Wow! Get well soon Doc!
the museum
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 11, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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Jordan, The "Helispot" was just that. Back in 02 a lighting caused fire started on a ridge above and the Arrowhead hotshots were dropped in and made a landing area so that crews and equip. could be flown in. The Helispot is a key landmark on the trail. Thanks Clint for keeping the names out. The Park is sensitive to trail making, usually done by growers. I was hoping to "adopt" the old original CCC trail, which is a really cool line up there and still pretty well perserved in some places.The whole trail goes all the way around the Castles and up to meet the Paradise peak Sand Meadow trail, which also heads down to Redwood Meadow. I did a full GPS of it and submitted a 3 year plan to bring it back in 3 segments. They said if I did they would then have to maintain it and just didn't have the manpower, which is true, for a frontcountry trail like this and the fact of all the PO was part of it.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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So, Bill and Jordan, I'd love to head out there with you guys when you go again.
That sounds great. We'd love to have you on the climb. I'm just "itching" to get back up there ;)
Thanks for the info about the helispot. Bill and I guessed it was a drop zone for equipment and people due to a fire in the area. There are still some burnt log pieces here and there we came across.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Just went to my orthopedic surgeon yesterday and had the splint removed. The foot is even more swollen 5 days after the fact and from additional imaging, my doc is telling me I'll be lucky to be walking again on it in 2 months and should expect full recovery in 6-8 months.
Looks like I'll be doing this trip next year.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jun 12, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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Sorry to hear that Bill. But, you'll probably be up on it sooner is my guess if your in shape and active. Doctors don't know everything, thats why they call it a "practice"
When I left work yesterday, Friday, it was raining like crazy here in Ash Mountain, Sequoia!
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 12, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
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MOOCH AND MUNGE, SEND!
They gotta be in the throws of it by now.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jun 12, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Jeeez Bill.Your foot looked worse than mine did.I was out over a year so don't feel toooo bad.Just lettin' ya know I feel your pain.Do what I did,learn to tie flies.I'm pretty damn good now though.Just saw this,sorry for the late reply.Haven't seen ya for a while.Let me know if ya wanna come up and fly-fish.Get better soon.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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Kirk,
Glad to see you're still around. I heard about your accident from the Bishop Grapevine.
Tying flies doesn't sound like a bad thing right now. I'll have to get my fly-tying kit back out and start practicing again.
Radish,
I have a feeling that the truth will lie somewhere in between. I tend to be a somewhat quick healer as I'm motivated to do my own PT. I had to have hand surgery for a severed ulnar collateral ligament in my right thumb. It took less than 3 months to be able to start climbing 5.10 again. After a ruptured appendix and septic shock that kept me in the hospital for 26 days, I slogged up a 10,400' peak exactly a month after I ruptured. A week later I was climbing 5.7 and a month after that I was leading Scouts up several of the peaks in the Tetons. I'll keep people in the loop as to my plans to return to the Spire.
Bill
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jun 14, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
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Any news if they made it?
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 06:35pm PT
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I know, right? What's the word?!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 14, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
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hey there bill, say.... just saw the newest news on your ol' foot...
oh my... but still,l even if you feel you may heal fast:
take care... you want your foot to be strong for a lifetime... not just the antsy "missing time" ... :)
keep getting well...
and do this fly tying stuff, for sure... sounds like a good past time...
say, capt. as to this quote:
Do what I did,learn to tie flies. good advice, and constructive too, and---something you can later enjoy, not only as memory-markers, but as to a well caught fish, hopefully...
say, now, bill, get busy and artsy (ooop, being a bit pushy, i am, huh?)... ;))
god bless...
:)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 14, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
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Dang!!
Let the hurdles stop you not. Go forth and gather all the healing you can find. Rehab your foot well my son, and return to the spires in the sky!
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Jun 14, 2010 - 09:23pm PT
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Just got a text from Munge that said they did it!! Congrats guys!!
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2010 - 09:26pm PT
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Excellent news! I'll be very happy to sign my name in that register again but the next time on top of the spire instead of in the gully.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 14, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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Got right back up on that horse, didn't you.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
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Jim, I'm out for 6-8 months but I'll be sure to let everyone know when I actually make it up that spire.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
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CONGRATS!! That's great news to hear!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 14, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
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Yeehaw DD and RB! Just got a few summit pics, as I'm sure others did, but I'll let them post up a full TR in time.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jun 14, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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Excellent! I am so happy for you two! Yeah!
AFS
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 15, 2010 - 04:58am PT
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Sleep, water, and junk food!
"EAT THIS!"
Brutus
Why am I still up at 1:50AM? Oh, yeah....must've been the Moose Drool that's gurgling my gut. ;)
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Jun 15, 2010 - 10:30am PT
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sikness, good job lads!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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Glad to hear the Mooch & Munge team's back! Lots of folks thinking of ya! Congrats! Looking forward to the TR!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2010 - 11:30am PT
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Can we get a topo in the interim?
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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