Patagonian Climbs

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 110 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 7, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 7, 2010 - 12:47pm PT

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 7, 2010 - 12:55pm PT

Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
On the edge

Is that on the Torre Central? I've never made it to Torres del Paine' but hope to some day

Scole
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 7, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
Yep, the Paine







Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
I'd love to hear more about the Torre Central. What route did you do? How about some more pics.

Scole
Gene

Social climber
Jun 7, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
Ontheedge_etc........,

Narrative please. Great shots. Thanks.

g
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 7, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
We climbed the North tower. We did a new route or variation of something. Mid 5.10ish. One of the best days of my climbing life.

We wanted to do the center (and the south too), but got shut down by weather. I think only one party got up the central tower that season, on the day we arrived! Such an amazing place and such grim wind. I read Moby Dick AND Lord Jim.

A couple more..


David Wilson

climber
CA
Jun 7, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
Here are a few from back in the day ( 1985 ). The photos are Mike Graber's

Galen on the way to the Italian col

Me on the summit ridge

Back to the pampas
Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
I remember giving a private slide show to Galen at Mike Grabers house in Mammoth before you guys left. Weren't you back in under two weeks?

Scole
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jun 7, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
Scott, We didn't have the wait on the weather we'd feared. After being stormed off our first foray up to the Italian col, we summited on the next attempt, about 10 days after arrival in base camp.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jun 7, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
Two years ago.....enjoyed Guillot (5+) via Couloir Amy (pronounced Ah-mee), 65 degree AI3+ (pretty thin at the time) on the east side Ag. Guillumet and 'Cuinas/Vieiro/Olaechea' on its west face (600m, 6a). Then we headed over to Cerro Torre Valley, hit up Torre De La Media Luna by climbing 'Rubia Y Azul' (6c). We wanted to get over to Claro De Luna on Ag. Saint Exupery but didn't have enough vacation time to pull it off. :(

Here's a few teaser shots of our 10 day stay, complete with amazingly warm and stable Patagonia weather .....

Crossing the lake outlet while heading out from "The Bird" camp....



Mrs. Mooch on her way out across the Cerro Torre glacier to Torre De La Media Luna.



Sharing 'Ni-Po-Nee-Mo' base camp with the "Uber-Doober" Bros. (Tomas on the left)



Mrs. M heading up the slabs to Torre De La Media Luna



The objective.....the route starts in the center of the photo by going up small corners and flake systems then bears right over to the chimney. After the chimney (which really climbs the left face on the inside), the route climbs the slabs on the right shoulder to the big yawning Oh-Dub that splits the top (the crux.....11b!) which leads to the top.



Again, the Misses having fun karate chopping the stellar hand cracks on the steep slab high on the route



Overwhelmed at the greatness of the route....



Ahhh....tasty cracks of Patagonia! Preparing to top out.



ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 7, 2010 - 08:56pm PT


Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
The shots below are from a new route I soloed in 1987 on the E. Face of Mojon Rojo (rt). I think Bridwell's rt is just left of the main prow, and mine started a few hundred feet up the gully.

I bivied at the base, and climbed the route in a 20 hr push V 5.9 A-2 with some difficult mixed to start

Scole

drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jun 8, 2010 - 02:16am PT
BUMP

Thanks everyone, this is killer!
northtrials

Trad climber
Penrith, Cumbria, UK
Jun 8, 2010 - 07:55am PT
We have a video from our last trip here: http://vimeo.com/9479710

Paine is a tough old place!

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jun 8, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
Cool posts!

A few more..


Steve B.


dude, it was sunny 3 minutes ago..

le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Jun 8, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
Northtrials - holy sh*t man. I didn't watch all of your vid but what I saw was insane. Thanks for sharing that.

Particularly enjoyed the send of 'The Half Peso' at minute ~25:00. Thin fingers .12c in Patagonia conditions? Yowza.
kiwi

Trad climber
Olympia, WA
Jun 8, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
how cheap is it to stay down there? I was thinking of spending a winter climbing. how hard is it to find partners? looks like a incredible place!
Scott Cole

Trad climber
Sunny California
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
Northtrials

That video is awesome. It's great to see modern climbing taken to the big mountains, the future of climbing! Way more impressive than any 5.14 red point.

Scole
Messages 21 - 40 of total 110 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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