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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 3, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
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I should know I'm sure.
Just returned from a cool trip to DT with my son. Were able to complete 4 routes in four days, despite the constant rain, including Walt Bailey Memorial. All routes were good.
Arne
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Naming the route for him was a gracious act.
(Not to mention not re-naming after the FFA)
And now, more than a half century after his death in Alaska, somebody is asking.
A nice thing in climbing.
EDIT
I wonder why the link said Alaska.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2010 - 09:43am PT
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Tom still going strong at 79. Total sweetheart.
Arne
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Hey there Arne(?). This post caught my eye as I lived in Casper through most the 90's and owe Walt Bailey much. He was responsible for an amazing collection of climbing/mountaineering books on hand in the Casper College library that I spent many a cold winters night reading in my dark, dingy studio apartment. Unfortunately, I don't know much about Walt personally except what has been stated: a professor at Casper College and avid climber/mountaineer. Now, the link above says Walt passed away in Alaska, but I'm fairly certain I read that he died moutaineering down in S. America. But I am not 100% on that. Maybe someone will confirm that or I can by doing some snooping online.
On a personal note, Walt Bailey Memorial is one outstanding climb. I remember it being very sustained and challenging for this hack. Thx. for the post!
Frank
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Walt Bailey was indeed an instructor at Casper College, who tragically died on an expedition in the Andes from pulmnary edema. My understanding was he started a climbing club at the school, and was instrumental in getting many initiated at the Devil's Tower. There is also a Casper College route there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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I don't know much about Walt Bailey, but I know that if someone was going to name a route after me that route is a pretty proud choice. Pretty much the only one pitch route on the tower. It is a great finger to hand crack that is a very full pitch.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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I'd almost forgotten "Bailey's Overhang" on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon; I've done the route, though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I always wondered who Walt Baily was. All i knew was that he was from Casper.
Another fascinating human, fractal of the climbing population.
Stellar route, too.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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What would be cool is if there are some original members from the Casper College Climbing Club lurking about and could share some stories and info. I always thought it'd be cool to revive the CCCC.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You mean like the guys that taught Fred Becky how to climb?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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It seems like I had seen another route with the same name in another area. Anybody know anything? It could have been he was the FA of a route though, but my memory is foggy.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Found another interesting link on a mountain named after him in the Winds that was not summited unti 1963. It also talks a little more about the circumstances of his death. Ron did he realy teach Fred Becky to climb. It says in the article he died on Alpomyo in 1958. Pretty bad ass to be rumming around down there back then. http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/153513/bailey-peak.html
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I didn't say it, Jay did.
I thought Albert Mummery taught Fred.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sorry Ron I guess I need to open my eyes, but I heard it was Moses that taught Fred to climb.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sinai was a walkup but Moses did a traverse that was more serious judging by what happened to the second team to try it.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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BTW, that summit photo provided by Arne is really amazing...the participants span a significant portion of our human lifespan, the oldest being 79?!!! What an inspiration!
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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ionlyski, That was pretty impressive that your 14 year old son led the 2nd pitch of soler. I met you guys sitting out the rain. I got to meet Tom for a brief moment too.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
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Thanks Ron and Dick for the great info. Yeah, an awesome, full one pitch route. I like that.
ionlyski, That was pretty impressive that your 14 year old son led the 2nd pitch of soler. I met you guys sitting out the rain. I got to meet Tom for a brief moment too.
Hey there Florida. Actually he's 15 now. I thought he led the first pitch but they're starting to blur together. Meeting Tom was a kick. The rest of you either meet cool people all the time or else didn't happen to notice the photo above. Go back and look cuz I'm fishing dangit!
Arne
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Good on yer kid! I didn't lead Soler until I was 19.
So what's the story on Tony Soler?
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
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Don't know about Tony Soler or that there was a Tony. The route names at Devil's Tower are unique for sure and that's refreshing. Seems they all spawn a discussion in their own right.
How about Carol's Crack? Climbing that thing at the City of Rocks and you're thinking "who's Carol"? Then you go to the Tower and climb Carol's Crack there and you're thinking, "aha, this is where it comes from". So who's Carol Black? Saw her all over the guidebook from the 70's.
Arne
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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met her at the tower and vedauwoo?
you know lean, athletic
Tony Soler climbed Soler August 30, 1951. Though it may have been a pen name of Tonio Kroger.
any of you Tower, wyo types remember Kim Walker?
I think Bisbee Larry knew her.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Info? What info?
I made a joke.
Albert Mummery was one of the first "guideless" climbers of the 19th century and died in 1895.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
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//Info? What info?
I made a joke.//
OK then, thanks for input. I like your dialog. and jokes.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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I think of Nanga Parbat when I see the name Mummery but that's about all I know, except that respect seems to be high for him. by the way, who did teach Fred?
sorry for the thread drift.
Arne
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Okay, fun is fun. In all seriousness it was Fred Becky who gave Eubbie Blake Piano lessons.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A.F. Mummery was an amazing climber, in the Alps and Caucasus. The Mummery Crack on the Grepon is named for him.
I'm pretty sure that much of Fred's early climbing was with the Seatlle Mountaineers. Or maybe Moses. But he struck out on his own quite early.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Who was 'Nanga'?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I thought Fred taught Moses.
(or at least wrote up Mt. Sinai as a 5.9 A3)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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yeah, but they say that's an old school rating...
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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So, Arne, we're supposed to guess who Tom is?
Looks like Tom Hornbein to me, but what do I know, I'd be highly pleased
to meet him, that's for sure.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Actually, I think he was hoping you'd guess the other two...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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Actually, I think he was hoping you'd guess the other two...
Nope Paco. Hornbein it is. The other two are nice guys though.
Arne
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 27, 2014 - 11:34pm PT
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My sons favorite climb is named after him.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 30, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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Re: Soler Route; FFA by Layton Kor and if my failing memory serves me, Raymond Jacquot.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Apr 30, 2014 - 11:23am PT
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Always assumed Soler was a person. Great route at Seneca with that name, too. Someone must know. Great thread!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Mar 28, 2017 - 11:12am PT
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I believe the fastest ascent of Devil's Tower is via the Walt Bailey Memorial Route. The late, great Todd Skinner climbed it to the top in 18 minutes. A few years ago a DT guide, Ago Felipe, climbed just the WBM route in six minutes. Not sure how long it took him to get to the actual summit.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 28, 2017 - 11:58am PT
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I once soloed 4 rtes in 4 hours, a record at the time ( that includes rigging the rappell) all rtes to the summit. WBM was one of the eyes I soloed that day. Though I had soloed it before that.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:57pm PT
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I don't know much about Tony Soler other than he was a member of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (the DC area outdoor club)climbing group in the 1940s and 50s who led some hard and bold climbs on Seneca Rocks, as well as the Devil's Tower climb. He also established a number of very difficult problems at the DC practice areas such as Carderock. The PATC of that era--and since--developed a number of excellent climbers.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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I think it's time to go back to the tower. Shooting for mid-May. Will the west side climbs like El Matador be closed again for raptors?
Arne
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| Messages 1 - 41 of total 41 in this topic |
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