Walt Shipley Routes


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M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 3, 2010 - 09:41am PT
Anyone have any good memories from climbing his routes? I was just starting to touch them when I moved away from the Valley. Hard but doable moves above heady gear and bolts seems to sum up what I remember of the pitches that I've been on.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 3, 2010 - 10:23am PT
I did one. It wasn't too heady, had good gear and no bolts.

South by Southwest on Lower Cathedral Spire- is a classic. I recommend it to everyone.

The 10d pitch is exposed with a superhero jug that lets you hang out like poser with hundreds of feet of air under your feet. The 11a is classic hands and not that bad.

A route Walt should have been proud of.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 3, 2010 - 10:28am PT
four posts down: Jaybro's very brief tale of an attempt on Lightning Bolt Crack in Broderick Canyon:


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 3, 2010 - 11:15am PT
Day in Court, Courthouse Butte(?) Best route in Sedona
5.11+ wide, and lots of other cool climbing.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Jun 3, 2010 - 11:19am PT
Reanimator (Walt/Klaus) is a cherished memory. As is a post Afghanastan tour of Walt's then new routes on Queen mountain at Josh, led by the man himself. oh and 5.2/5.12 -not a Walt FA but a route we repeated numerous times.

Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, Nv
Jun 3, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
2nd ascent of the Forbidden Corner VI 5.10 A4 in Zion. Great route, scary loose, and lots of exposure. Really rad time 1st hard route I had ever attempted in Zion. Thanks Walt

Kurt "Burt" high up on the A3= hooking pitch of Forbidden Corner
Kurt "Burt" high up on the A3= hooking pitch of Forbidden Corner
Credit: Burt
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 3, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
White Rain is one of several Mega Classic Shipley routes in Josh.
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
I was asked a while ago if I had any info on Stinger and Stand and Quiver at Pat and Jack's. I've looked at that section of the cliff many times but have never climbed over there. Since then, this route has intrigued me. Is there anyone here who has or knows someone who has summitted Pat and Jack's via Stinger and Stand and Quiver?
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jun 3, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
I have another vote for White Rain. It is one of the best at Josh and is continuous and tricky. Walt did a way scary runout at the top (crux) on the FA and went back later to add one bolt and make it doable for mere mortals. Thanks man!

beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jun 4, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
Behold, the Age of the Kali Yuga:

Jun 5, 2010 - 12:10am PT
I've done some. Min Ne Ah, Mindahoone Wall (sp?), and fug I can't remember. White Rain is great and I have to say that South by Southwest was the least scary(not at all), and instead of bagged, it is light. The rest are way more involved. All great ventures into the world of rock climbing.

Jaybro have you actually done Day in Court? If so please share!!!!

Bob Jensen

Hobart, Australia
Jun 5, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
Hi Jeremy-

Nice job on the Setting Hen.

Walt actually called that one "Mr. Stubbs" because he freudingently saw the formation as a stubby penis.

We only had one rope on that one, and had to rap off a loose boulder from the top of the first pitch to get back down. It was one of the most tenuous raps I ever did. Walt went first.

Did you score the Birdbeak we used as a rivet hanger on the top rappel bolt?


Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 6, 2010 - 10:25am PT
it is sad Bob that you do not remember anything about Mindahoonee Wall. It looks very attractive [ 5 pitches: 10d, 10d, 10a, 5.8, 11a] From topo it looks like left facing corner all the way. long aproach- probably not easy to spot the line?
FA: late-1970s-Warren Harding, Mike Corbett, Bill Surnik (Blitzo?)
FFA: early-1990s Walt Shipley and Kevin Fosburg
two stars in book meant something classic
Anyone climbed it want to share?
Edit: made some search on this site and found greate Walter Flint photo of the route
Walter Flint photo
Walter Flint photo
Credit: Alexey

Boulder climber
El Portal, Ca.
Jun 6, 2010 - 11:18am PT
I remember working on psychological warfare with Walt, He just kept saying" psychological warfare , psychological warfare." lol
One of my favorite Shipley memories

Trad climber
electric lady land
Jun 6, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
hey volland,

i got nothin' for
you on shipley routes,
but just wanted to say
what's up?

heard you made a kid
and moved out of the valley.
'aint seen you since the
creek years ago.

hope all is well.


Jun 6, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
Alexey, no need for sadness here. I don't remember all the routes I've done by Walt, but I remember that one. THe first two pitches are absolutely classic, physical-ass climbing. If my memory does serve me right they were both overcome by fists deeeeeep. The 10a took a second to figure out where to go, but you end up pulling up some munge with good moves. The 5.8 was I have no idea (only thing I can't remember), but I linked it to the 11a which is hard fingers on a face with grass. I don't recommend this linkage as it is f*#ked. Just keep the pitches as is. If South by Southwest is 11a Mindahoonee is 12a, and its not 12a by any means. Great route, hard the whole way. Goes up one sick ass peace of stone. Its like a mix of Tuolumne and the Valley at the same time as I recall. Its just to the right in the first corners from that huge obvious corner in your photo. That looks sick too! One can see those corners of the first two pitches well in that photo.
Please, please don't be sad. j/k :)

Bob Jensen

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 6, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
Bob, thanks for sharing the route info.
I misunderstood you- when you mentioned that you do not remember spelling of the route
I've done some. Min Ne Ah, Mindahoone Wall (sp?), and fug I can't remember
I was thinking you do not remember the route itself.

And to confirm that I got it right
Its just to the right in the first corners from that huge obvious corner in your photo. That looks sick too! One can see those corners of the first two pitches well in that photo.

Do you mean that line following huge left facing corner, and not in the face of the book?

Jun 6, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
Whoa, crazy timing. I know how you misunderstood me. I was just being a foolin dork. Really good route when its all added up in my opinion. There's a write up of Min Ne Ah somewheres on this Taco. Its fun stuff.

Bob Jensen

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 6, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
Here you Go


Nice story BOB!

M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2010 - 01:19pm PT

Been a long time. Too long!

Yes, my wife and I have an almost 21 month old boy. And we've moved to browner pastures (Arizona). Thought we would move to a red state and procreate until it turned blue.

Before I left the Valley I was beginning to try out the .10 R routes. Just didn't get around to getting on Beer Pressure, Walt Shipley .10aR at the Manure Pile. Been thinking about it lately, thought I would start a thread and see if the route came up in discussion... Anywho, I'm going back to the valley for a family reunion on my wife's side and I'd like to give my head a go on the sharp end on that one.

Good hearing from you!
PS my creek days have officially started up again.
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