Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 10:58am PT
|
Kinda puts the "sting" in Stingray.
Props on the repeat, though.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
|
Yeah whatever about "Claiming a rock?.." Hidetaka would have never known where it was (hardly anyone did...) until he was told where to find it, and to look for all my gear hanging out of it...Obviously you don't do first ascents, and furthermore who the f*#k made you an authority anyway?
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
|
You can't claim a crack as your project
That's gotta be one of the strangest things I've ever seen written here. Well, strangest climbing-related things, anyway. Any place I've ever climbed, claim jumping crack projects is grounds for hanging.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
|
You can't claim a crack as your project
That's gotta be one of the strangest things I've ever seen written here. Well, strangest climbing-related things, anyway. Any place I've ever climbed, claim jumping crack projects is grounds for hanging
Most places nowadays, leaving your gear in a crack for days at a time is grounds for booty.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
|
I remember you talking about Stingray Mike, and how fired up you were about Suzuki's bullsh#t. I have had routes snaked as well and its not a good feeling.
Rank, its a matter of personal respect.
|
|
blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
|
Maybe personal respect should include not insulting someone who doesn't post on this site who is very well respected for his climbing and as a person.
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
|
It is great to Stingray and other hard Josh routes getting well deserved attention from top climbers in the last year. Congrats to Sonny Trotter on his repeat of this fierce and amazing thin crack.
It is unfortunate that someone tipped Suzuki off to Mike's project. But it seems that the person whom did that is the one deserving of scorn, not necessarily Suzuki.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
|
If the gear was in, then Suzuki knew someone was working it and must have had a reason to decide to go for it.
Hard to say what that was. Someone will have to ask him.
|
|
Rankin
climber
North Carolina
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
|
Watusi, I never claimed to be an authority on anything. Just a climber with an opinion. And again that opinion...people who get bent out of shape over first ascents take themselves and climbing way too seriously.
Sorry your feelings are still hurt about Stingray, but is it really worth any bad blood? If that climb meant so much to you, why didn't you get the 2nd lead ascent? Who cares what Hidetaka or anyone else did?
I don't tell people not to climb something because I haven't gotten my ass up it yet. And I would never leave my gear on the wall overnight and then insist that no one use it. Life's too short.
|
|
426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
|
This is always a tough matter, how long does a red tag stay up and legit-since in climbing there is anything but consensus, something that Sharma is dealing with in Spain currently on FRFM.
...about which Nalle finally sez:(after respecting the red tag...)
"This was not the end of the world for me and there's so much good climbing in Catalunya, that you're never going to run out of routes to try."
In JT this is different, how many hard cracks of that grade are there..? Thoughts on how long red stays red?
|
|
lemonviolence
Trad climber
Monrovia, CA
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
|
Grades are something that will always be debated... Its an argument that may never end.
My question is why is this receiving so little attention in the US? I mean climbing, rock & ice, and alpinist have said nothing of his achievement.
Sh#t, when Cobra Crack went down... The photos/media were all over the American Climbing Industry... and its in Canada. You'd figure a classic test piece like Stingray along with its location (JTree for those of you not paying attention) would be big news...
Whats the deal with all that?
|
|
Wack
climber
Dazevue
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2010 - 12:31am PT
|
"And I would never leave my gear on the wall overnight and then insist that no one use it. Life's too short. "
That might be the consensus now but in the 80's at JT you showed respect to local guys like Mike Paul and a project that had that much work put into it. Half of the fun of an FA at JT is cruising through the Wonderland looking for classics. You didn't jump on an obscure climb you would have never found on your own. Mike Paul was humble, didn't spray and was willing to listen to the rad climb you had done that day, even though he had soloed it dozens of times. You have to wear fancy clothes and pay big bucks to watch ballet. At JT you could enjoy a cold bear while watching Mike Paul float the classic problems.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2010 - 01:30am PT
|
i've got some photos of watusi and brooke sandahl working the route right before mike did it. maybe i can dig 'em up and post 'em.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2010 - 01:43am PT
|
found one of 'em:
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2010 - 04:24am PT
|
Hey all!! Had some cathartic moments with this, and got through some tears...with some beers, and realized that it is all good and what happened was what happened, and I at the time and will always be Hidetaka's friend...Sheesh!! Sorry for getting bent, but maybe this forum helped me walk, (baby steps,) past this?? If I spoke out of turn, f*#k it, I believe I had the right too...:) Cheers to my own taco brethren!!! Once again, great to see this cool feature getting repeated and some new love!!
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2010 - 01:53am PT
|
Still getting over this...Could of been a big one, but I got ratted by friends...:(
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:20am PT
|
MP, don't sweat it mang. You guys out there uncovering and sending stuff stoked our fires for doing routes in Josh and elsewhere. Stingray is neat and all, but it wasn't everything the desert offered to those of us who loved the desert.
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2010 - 02:36am PT
|
i saw tucker tech knock that off while holding his nuts,
no water either. bone dry all the way.
dude never drinks water. like some type of human camel.
|
|
ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
|
Nice comment Scott
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!