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Messages 1 - 40 of total 40 in this topic |
the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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May 28, 2010 - 09:05am PT
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cool..
another proud cosgrove route...
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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May 28, 2010 - 09:11am PT
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Hey Kurt I thought Suzuki did the f.a. I know Watusie found it and was close to getting it.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 28, 2010 - 10:01am PT
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It hurt my fingers to just look at that thing.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 28, 2010 - 10:42am PT
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looks sweet!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 28, 2010 - 10:50am PT
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Most places a 13D repeat wouldn't be news, I guess at JT it's real climbing.
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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May 28, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Sonnie T, the famous headpointer
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RtM
Boulder climber
DHS
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May 28, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
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A Cozgrove route? I thought it was a Mike Paul (tr)/Hidetaka Suzuki (lead)route??
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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May 28, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Yeah, looked to be a true old school JTREE route. Man, major skillzzzz
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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May 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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I always thought it was 5.13d. Thats what it was rated BITD.
I believe Paul Parker may have toproped the Stingray at some point but I don't think he ever lead the route.
I second Dr. F's comment that it looked painful. ;(
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Congrats to Sonnie!
I don't remember a foothold on this climb that made it 3 grades easier though... The crux section overhangs almost 45 degrees and there was no foothold thicker than maybe 3/16 of an inch. Not exactly a finesse route! I think Hidetaka originally rated it 13d and I never saw any reason to dispute that. It is quite a bit harder than Phoenix, Cosmic Debris, etc. and probably 4 grades harder than Equinox.
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ktmt
Sport climber
Montana
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If only the Watusi would weigh in...
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah I got credit for the first TR and even was close to leading it but was a bit put off when I'd go out and see Suzuki hanging on all of my tcu's...Put a damper on the rest of my climbing career that someone had told him about it while I was still working on it...That was '88, glad to see it getting some attention after 22 years!:)
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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usless without photos!
we need photos!
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Hanging on your gear is bogus! Thats too bad someone jumped the gun on 'Watusi's' FA.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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My bad Watusi and zuki..
it does suck when someone snakes your project...
had that happen to me a few times..
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jun 11, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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Yeah it was the end for me and high end climbing...That someone would sell me short, saying that I'd never do it...I have been a bass player since I was nine so I had some thing to fall back on...Touring 20 countries for the DOD, opening for bands like Smithereens and Sheryl Crow, so it wasn't all bad I guess...
For my good friend who told him where to find my gear hanging...
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apogee
climber
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Jun 11, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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He probably used tick marks. Loser.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Jun 11, 2010 - 10:45am PT
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I've got to come to Hidetaka's defense here. You can't claim a crack as your project and effectively put a reg tag on it. I'm sure old schoolers are going to get all hot and bothered about my opinion on this, but there it is. Just because you find a climb, clean it and try to climb it first, doesn't mean anything. Climbers love to "make their mark" on rocks, but in reality, it's just a rock that's located on public property. No one individual owns it.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jun 11, 2010 - 10:58am PT
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Kinda puts the "sting" in Stingray.
Props on the repeat, though.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jun 11, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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Yeah whatever about "Claiming a rock?.." Hidetaka would have never known where it was (hardly anyone did...) until he was told where to find it, and to look for all my gear hanging out of it...Obviously you don't do first ascents, and furthermore who the f*#k made you an authority anyway?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 11, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
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You can't claim a crack as your project
That's gotta be one of the strangest things I've ever seen written here. Well, strangest climbing-related things, anyway. Any place I've ever climbed, claim jumping crack projects is grounds for hanging.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 11, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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You can't claim a crack as your project
That's gotta be one of the strangest things I've ever seen written here. Well, strangest climbing-related things, anyway. Any place I've ever climbed, claim jumping crack projects is grounds for hanging
Most places nowadays, leaving your gear in a crack for days at a time is grounds for booty.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jun 11, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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I remember you talking about Stingray Mike, and how fired up you were about Suzuki's bullsh#t. I have had routes snaked as well and its not a good feeling.
Rank, its a matter of personal respect.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Jun 11, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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Maybe personal respect should include not insulting someone who doesn't post on this site who is very well respected for his climbing and as a person.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 11, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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It is great to Stingray and other hard Josh routes getting well deserved attention from top climbers in the last year. Congrats to Sonny Trotter on his repeat of this fierce and amazing thin crack.
It is unfortunate that someone tipped Suzuki off to Mike's project. But it seems that the person whom did that is the one deserving of scorn, not necessarily Suzuki.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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If the gear was in, then Suzuki knew someone was working it and must have had a reason to decide to go for it.
Hard to say what that was. Someone will have to ask him.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Jun 11, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
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Watusi, I never claimed to be an authority on anything. Just a climber with an opinion. And again that opinion...people who get bent out of shape over first ascents take themselves and climbing way too seriously.
Sorry your feelings are still hurt about Stingray, but is it really worth any bad blood? If that climb meant so much to you, why didn't you get the 2nd lead ascent? Who cares what Hidetaka or anyone else did?
I don't tell people not to climb something because I haven't gotten my ass up it yet. And I would never leave my gear on the wall overnight and then insist that no one use it. Life's too short.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jun 11, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
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This is always a tough matter, how long does a red tag stay up and legit-since in climbing there is anything but consensus, something that Sharma is dealing with in Spain currently on FRFM.
...about which Nalle finally sez:(after respecting the red tag...)
"This was not the end of the world for me and there's so much good climbing in Catalunya, that you're never going to run out of routes to try."
In JT this is different, how many hard cracks of that grade are there..? Thoughts on how long red stays red?
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lemonviolence
Trad climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
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Grades are something that will always be debated... Its an argument that may never end.
My question is why is this receiving so little attention in the US? I mean climbing, rock & ice, and alpinist have said nothing of his achievement.
Sh#t, when Cobra Crack went down... The photos/media were all over the American Climbing Industry... and its in Canada. You'd figure a classic test piece like Stingray along with its location (JTree for those of you not paying attention) would be big news...
Whats the deal with all that?
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Jun 12, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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"And I would never leave my gear on the wall overnight and then insist that no one use it. Life's too short. "
That might be the consensus now but in the 80's at JT you showed respect to local guys like Mike Paul and a project that had that much work put into it. Half of the fun of an FA at JT is cruising through the Wonderland looking for classics. You didn't jump on an obscure climb you would have never found on your own. Mike Paul was humble, didn't spray and was willing to listen to the rad climb you had done that day, even though he had soloed it dozens of times. You have to wear fancy clothes and pay big bucks to watch ballet. At JT you could enjoy a cold bear while watching Mike Paul float the classic problems.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 12, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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i've got some photos of watusi and brooke sandahl working the route right before mike did it. maybe i can dig 'em up and post 'em.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 12, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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found one of 'em:
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jun 12, 2010 - 04:24am PT
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Hey all!! Had some cathartic moments with this, and got through some tears...with some beers, and realized that it is all good and what happened was what happened, and I at the time and will always be Hidetaka's friend...Sheesh!! Sorry for getting bent, but maybe this forum helped me walk, (baby steps,) past this?? If I spoke out of turn, f*#k it, I believe I had the right too...:) Cheers to my own taco brethren!!! Once again, great to see this cool feature getting repeated and some new love!!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 19, 2010 - 01:53am PT
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Still getting over this...Could of been a big one, but I got ratted by friends...:(
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 19, 2010 - 02:20am PT
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MP, don't sweat it mang. You guys out there uncovering and sending stuff stoked our fires for doing routes in Josh and elsewhere. Stingray is neat and all, but it wasn't everything the desert offered to those of us who loved the desert.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 19, 2010 - 02:36am PT
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i saw tucker tech knock that off while holding his nuts,
no water either. bone dry all the way.
dude never drinks water. like some type of human camel.
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Dec 13, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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Nice comment Scott
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