Pinnacles, fun for everyone!

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short-rope penis-head

Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 10, 2005 - 06:31pm PT
Hey people!

So the post about the Pinn's new guide book and retrobolting issues made me think about my past there. I grew up climbing there, as many of you may have, and love it. I realise that though I sometimes feel like it is my "local" area, it is a place to be shared with everybody! The Pinn's is special to us all, sooo...

What are some of your best memories of climbing at the Pinnacles?




Kevin Friedrich
SoloBolo

Trad climber
groveland, ca
Nov 10, 2005 - 08:53pm PT
climbing a .10c with spinning glue-ins. turning 5.8's to 5.13's, hitting my belayer with the holds i just used'
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Nov 10, 2005 - 10:18pm PT
spinng glue-in????

where? when?

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Nov 10, 2005 - 10:18pm PT
wait a second, aren't we supposed to be posting over here...

http://www.mudncrud.com/mastersofmud/
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Nov 10, 2005 - 11:13pm PT
Pinnacles pisses me off..
billygoat

climber
Nov 11, 2005 - 01:24am PT
Glue-ins are supposed to spin. That's how they're designed. Call Petzl for more technical details...

As for memories:

Soloing the first sister and realizing that I could actually hurt myself if that one loose section broke.

Telling Chris that there should be a line on the arete next to lardbut, then getting a call one evening after he and Sterling had figured the details of Uberminch out. Not that I ever really had a hand in it, but I swear Chris would've never climbed that line had I not insisted he should try (he thought the rock was too loose).

Third ascent of Loveline on the Hand. Pulled a huge block off the second pitch, and SteviDx got a real kick out of that as he watched from the Salathe route!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Nov 11, 2005 - 01:46am PT
billygoat is a crack up!

spinning glue ins, apparently they are all the rage in Europe this year.



billygoat

climber
Nov 11, 2005 - 01:48am PT
No munge,

Tom Davis had the same problem, he called Petzl, and they explained the design. It'll all make sense if you ask those dudes.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Nov 11, 2005 - 02:44am PT
Doing and early repeat of "Piece of Ewe" on Goat Rock back in the mid 70's. The belay for the third pitch is a loose chockstone in a crack. The Chuck Richard's guidebook describes the first ascent and notes that since a fall from the crux on the third pitch would probably result in death of all climbers the FA party was forceably made to tie into a top rope and how a bolt now soundly protects the crux.

I go up there (30' out from the chockstone) and, for the life of me, can't find the bolt. I go for it (in true Pinnacles spirit) and make it only to have both my followers, who are solid 5.9 leaders, fall while seconding!

You gotta love it!

Bruce

ps - I probably should have known what was coming as the best protection on the second pitch was a jammed knot in a crack.
short-rope penis-head

Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 03:11am PT
Okay, I started this one so i've got to say mine.

One day in 2000 (I was 16 years old then) I went to the west side with my mom. I had my climbing shoes and a chalk bag, but no harness or belayer. I decided to climb Tilting Terrace solo, and when I got to the ledge (terrace) decided to solo up Adams Apple instead of going up the gully to the left. The best part is that when I was getting ready to turn that little lip/overhang crux thing on Adams Apple, my mom looked up from the slab bellow and was like "don't fall kev" and then kept reading her book. I don't even think she realised the risk I was in. Soloing pinn's 5.9 80 ft off the deck? Sh#t, your only 16 once.

Kevin Friedrich
billygoat

climber
Nov 11, 2005 - 03:53am PT
Here's a string of moments which brings me evil grins...

Sitting on top of the monolith and reading James' post about soloing a bunch of routes that morning. Went back to cruz town, saw James, told him is was f*#king stupid for soloing at the Pinns. Few months later he fell and wound up...ah, ya'll know the rest.

I guess we all have had our brainless moments. At least I was soloing the first sister with a girl. Ha!
Dog

climber
Nov 11, 2005 - 10:13am PT
Pinnacles is a great winter and spring playground. Hell, you can do 20-25 routes in a day.

And you know what, every time I go back, the routes change from the broken holds so its always a new experience.Take the Verdict for example. How many variations have there been over the years for the start.

Great place. Some great memories with great friends.

Cheers
Mei

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 11, 2005 - 12:21pm PT
My first outdoor climbing trip was to the Pinnacles (thanks to my early climbing mentors such as Dave Ross and Joan Marshall). When Mud heard about this, his comment was: "Wow, you got the best start in climbing!"

I remember following only one climb (might be Ordeal) before we called it a day due to weather. There, I heard the terms like rappel and flaking a rope the first time, and words such as gear, anchor, etc. suddenly started taking a new meaning (and got really confusing).
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Nov 11, 2005 - 01:27pm PT
Ah, have times changed! Rather than 20-25 routes in a day, how about 25 Pinnacles in a day. On Thanksgiving weekend in 1977 four of us tried to do 25 Pinnacles in a day the only caveats were that they all had to be 5th class routes and no headlamps. Man, leading Piglets as the light was fading and you could barely see was an adventure.

Bruce
SoloBolo

Trad climber
groveland, ca
Nov 11, 2005 - 02:49pm PT
munge,

the bolt is the last one (most were sound i think)on cantaloupe death.

glue-ins designed to spin? bullsh#t...
every other bolt on that route was as solid as the pinns can be.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Nov 11, 2005 - 03:57pm PT
Some good memories at the Pinns:

Stumbling onto a new route on the Frog and climbing it to
the anchors, thanks Clint that was Great!

Watching my buddy blow a hook (and peal a huge rock) while bolting
on the Hatchet--the crowd at the resevoir clapped.

Topping out on Love Line. That was the best.

:- k
salad

climber
San Diego
Nov 11, 2005 - 04:32pm PT
My first day on real rock was at the pinns too. it was august and 100+ on the east side. we did portent first. i put my shoes on before my partner led. he climbed then pulled the rope about half way up before i realized i wasnt tied in. he had to down climb half the route to get the rope back to me and we ended up doing it in two pitches. it was so hot that by the time i got to the top my feet had burned and i had BIG blisters on the tips of my toes.

we did all the easy classics that day, portent, swallows, ordeal, wet kiss, the 5.6 and 5.8 route on monolith, maybe the upper crust and finished with stupendous man(pulling that mantel got me hooked).

i had to lance the blisters on my feet before every climb.

my second day on rock was at donner and my partner whipped on Firecracker and broke his wrist.

Third day was on the west side, we climbed costanoan (partner in a cast still). that was my first lead and first time setting an anchor mid route. our ropes got stuck rapping power tools (my first or second rappel ever). epic.
aldude

climber
Nov 11, 2005 - 05:00pm PT
Climbing "Torso" with Petey. e were so wigged at the site of that tottering phallus that we simo-rappeled on opposite sides to avoid vector forces we thought would bring the whole gnarly rig down on our heads TIMBER!
WBraun

climber
Nov 11, 2005 - 07:00pm PT
Bump
Mr_T

Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
Nov 11, 2005 - 09:35pm PT
Third ascent of Cuidado. Pulled a grapefruit size hold out of the wall on the third pitch, locked off, and just sort of admired the whole situation. I was 17.
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