Unrepeated El Cap Routes?


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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 10, 2005 - 02:04am PT
Second ascents are proud. What are the remaining plums - routes and variations(variation=less than half the pitches are new)? A partial list -
Wings of Steel,Winds of Change,Quo Vadis,Highway to Hell,Abstract Expressionist,Turning Point,Allied Forces,The Girdle,Every Man for Himself,Continental Drift,Beyer Route - Left Side - I'm sure there are more

Social climber
The Deli
Nov 10, 2005 - 02:27am PT
Dude is now posting on ST? Amazing…

Hole World ?, Heavy Metal & Tinker Toys ?, Nightmare, Ned’s, Golden Blade (var.), Genesis ?, Heartland ?, False Shield ?, Jose Mem. (var.), Dark Star ?, Dave’s new routes… ...for a few guesses…

Continental has not seen a second?

Which Beyer routes?

Edit: On second thought, has there ever been a ‘second ascent’ list ever published? Can we list all of the second ascents/ascentionists of all of the El Cap routes that have been climbed more than once? With all of the… um… ‘old dads’ around here these days, you’d think that might be possible. Post up, oh knowledgeable ones!
Roger Breedlove

Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 10, 2005 - 08:14am PT
Hi Minerals,

I like your idea of colleting second ascents. I cannot help in this regard personally since I pretty much ignored the big wall routes. (Accepting one's lightness is the first step to recovery.)

Nevertheless it is interesting. Here is a start:

Nose: R.Robbins, C. Pratt, J. Fitschen, T. Frost, date 1960
Muir: R. Robbins solo, 1968
Salathe: R. Robbins and T. Frost, 1962
Dihedral Wall: R. Robbins and T. Frost, 1964
West Buttress: R. Robbins and C. Pratt 1965
WEML: R. Robbins and D. Laurie??

Cardiff by the sea
Nov 10, 2005 - 08:57am PT

Where is Dark Star located, and who put it up?

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 10, 2005 - 11:34am PT
did dave name his new route "Atlantis" after all? -- (thats the name he was kicking around while climbing) ..

.. got to see some of the pitches up close under the shark fin .. pretty sick hooking.

Nov 10, 2005 - 11:40am PT
Take Genesis, Darkstar, False Shield, and possiblely Winds of Change and Heartland off the list.

Sin City
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:08pm PT
has heartland seen a repeat? Also what about The Real Nose? Darkstar, Bridwell route from a coule of years ago over on the far right? Also the beyer routes one on the left side (past lurking fear) and 2 on the right side (dawn wall and Zodiac areas) repeats anyone?

Also, Hey Eric Abstract Expressionist is it finished? I heard (we know how climbers gossip) that you had a direct finish planned but never completed it. Is there any truth to this? I think ammon led the first pitch (or part of the first pitch) thinking that it was ZM, boy what a wake up!

la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:31pm PT
Genesis, repeat by Highway to hell team in the late 90s. Also repeated by Steve this summer with his wife. Looks like a good line.

Darkstar, Steve and team did a push on this route a few years ago. It starts to the right of the slab pitches over below the Waterfall Route. You can see where heads were placed. The first pitch did not look like A5 as shown on the topo I have. But whatever, still looked like risky if you fell. Looked better than I would have thought too. F.A. was Bridwell and someone.

Winds of Change, Valerio has done this and so have some other young guys from Europe.

Heartland, someone this summer said something about Steve climbing this. Wouldn't surprise me...
False Shield, I think Steve has done this.
Real Nose, Steve may have repeated this also???

Abstract... I didn't get the impression that the first pitch was the one to worry about. You can sorta see where he went from nearby routes. I think it would be a pretty good route as it is. Or just climb most of it then finish up the Straw.

Party on! I can't wait to get back to the Valley! Couple more weeks! Fun Fun Fun!!!

NOT Fresno
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:34pm PT
Climber gossip? I'm full o' that.

Heard whoever it was on Genesis said the aid wasn't bad but the free was terrifying.

Yeah, who did Heartland?

hahah, I heard that about Ammon too. No topo, goes up on AE. That's a classic "What the f*#k is happening!" aid moment. Didn't the Hubers free Zod variations take some of AE's lines?

Some 2nds:

Tom Frost and Fitschen and somebody did the 2nd of RNWF too, in barely 2 days. Grade V, anyone?

Thaw ticked a bunch of those Klaus routes.

Grant, Reticent, '97.

T2/Lovelace, Kaos, no?

Roger Breedlove did the 2nd of Breedlove Memorial in 1904. Actually pretty freaking hard to do if you think about it.

EDIT: Was Boulos on Dark Star? And Jake, you dumbass, if you go to the Valley in winter you'll get frostbite.

la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:46pm PT
-Darkstar... Steve Gerberding and team
-Get Whacked... Highway to Hell team
-Pressure Cooker... some guys from Philli... would have to check notes
-High Plains Dripper... guys from Philli
-Plastic... Kevin Thaw and Chris Kalous
-BUBS... Russ and Walt
-Surgeon General... Rick Lovelace solo
-Kaos... yup lovelace/T2
-Scorched Earth... Chris Kalous and Chris Righter
-Gulfstream... Scott Stowe and Will Oxx
-Tempest... lovelace or alex lowe??? Or did Gerberding get 2nd
-Reticent... Kevin Thaw, Chris Kalous, and Mark Synnott
-Disorderly Conduct... Eric George, Eric Coomer, and Brent Ware
-Genesis... Highway to Hell team
-Winds of Change... need to check notes but two 19 year olds

Hey T2, were you in the valley sometime in July or so?

la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
Yo, not if I don't just hang in my harness while belaying a 8 hour pitch. Not bringing belay chair was really bad idea. So was wearing my boots and socks I use in yosemite during the summer. Plus I want to prove doctor wrong and the valley in winter looks rad. I have already been playin in the snow this year.

Cardiff by the sea
Nov 10, 2005 - 02:25pm PT

Yes, I believe we met in the meadows briefly.

Be careful with those feet. I had to desend off the Captain in about 3-4 feet of snow after a winter ascent, and it fuked up my feet for a few weeks after the I got back. If you have any doubts ask my buddy E. His feet were frost bitten in Asia and he had huge ploblems with them after we got rescued on Occtopussy last fall. He counldn't walk or do sh#t for weeks as well. I am not saying anything other than be careful bro.
jack herer

chico, ca
Nov 10, 2005 - 02:29pm PT
bermuda dunes - chris kalous?

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2005 - 05:30pm PT
Good beta here.Yes Bryan even dinosaurs evolve. A few more candidates - Ring of Fire,Adrift,Verano Magico? AE looks stupendous but will for now remain a var.Scott Cosgrove and I accompianied Steve on Darkstar in 03. Did it in 20.09 - mostly in the dark - fittingly. 55 meter pitch up high was the barnburner(A4+). Still can't remember the name of the Beyer route but recall it has 5.12 tr pitches. Who's Dave?
Sam Shannon

Social climber
the middle of nowhere
Nov 10, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
Mediterreaneo; FA by the Gallego bro's from Basque country in 1981. (First all-foreign FA on El Cap?) Second ascent by Ken Bokelund and Kevin _? from Lake Tahoe in early 90's.

I met Kevin once. He's a helluva lot tougher than I am and he laughed in my face when I told him about my own attempt to solo the route a couple of years ago.

Social climber
My Subconcious
Nov 10, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
Who cares about the Capitan. It's passe. Let's hear about The Chief. Anyone repeat the route you did? What about Pegasus on Quarter dome?

"Dave" is Dave Turner a 23 year old climber from Sacramento California who has been doing some aiding. He put up two new El Cap routes, one called Block Party and a more recent one named named Atlantis. Both of these were solo first ascents. His routes come out of the Alcove and are usually really loose. He garnered national media attention when he was rescued a few pitches from the summit of El Capitan. It was during the storm that killed two Japanese climbers on the Nose.


Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 10, 2005 - 10:22pm PT
How many of these second ascencionists did the route pure without adding anything? I heard when Thaw & Co. did the second of Plastic SD they added bolts at belays. That's WAY lame. Not what the FA'ist intended the route to be and changes it for all parties that follow. If the FA'ist wanted the route to be scary, Thaw should have left it in it's scary original state or picked another line to climb. His seconding of it is marred by his changing the nature of the route pro.

la la land
Nov 10, 2005 - 10:55pm PT
About the PSD bolts... I have a whole rant on that! Everyone minus the Brazilans were like famous/heard of people. Ammon I think chopped some cheater rivets, we bashed some bat holes.

The added belay bolts are lame but I'm just as lame for not chopping them. There wasn't a need for it either. The 2 spots I can think of had a bolt already from the F.A. you just had to place some pretty decent looking pins to make a full anchor.

As for lead sh#t, all of it is now good. There is an added rivet on the 12th due to a nice size feature departin.

Oh I think it was Scott Stowe who did second of Gulfstream... but not sure I forgot to ask him this summer.

edit... Scott Stowe and Will Oxx did 2nd ascent of Gulfstream... aldude knew it

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 02:58am PT
Since you ask I will spray - The Chief on Yasoo Dome is my favoriteFA,...so far.Did the second and FOD with jimmi Hayden - time short,not free. A few years later I heard that P.Coward and co. fired it and managed to tr the crux pitch - a low angled leaning book. Well needless to say I recruited Ben and Bernie from the Deli and I managed to free that Albatross at 12b in a 2 day effort. No known fourth ? Tenaya Canyon is magical and the route worth the death-defying approach. WARNING - only 11 bolts in fifteen pitches,total!
As for Quarter Dome I think you're refering to "Quarter Pounder" on West Q- Dome.Four stretcher pitches on the right near the rockscar - 5.11a - no bolts,burly approach. Second ascent unlikely.

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 03:03am PT
P.S. Mad Props to Dave
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