Discussion Topic |
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Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic |
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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I was hoping that someone had any information about who stole over $1000 of offwidth gear from an offwidth roof project located down the road from the "Blue Gamma" wall in IC.
The route is located a pitch up and is a very serious invert difficult to steal gear off of. It has been projected by Bob Scarpelli, Brad Jackson, John Varco, and Mason Earl; without success.
Shanti and I have been projecting it over the last 8 weeks and were very close to sending. We went up there today to discover that all of the gear (minus the 4 big-bros?) were STOLEN!!!!!
Who ever took the 7 or 8 cams left a carin at the base as what I would assume as a big "F@ck you!". We are pretty crushed, as it was the majority of our offwidth gear and maybe 3-4 people knew where this route was located. It would have taken alot of work to get the gear off this project.
If anyone has ANY information about this there would be no questions asked, and a reward would be given.
Please don't flame this tread.
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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May 23, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
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Totally F*cked!!!
had to be one or two of the 3-4 you say knew where this place was.....
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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May 23, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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OOOOPS!!
I might have to apologize.
Not deleting my poor post though.
You left expensive stuff laying around.
It got picked up.
Now your pissed?!?
Clean up after yourself.
You are saying that gear was left on the ground.
P.Kingsbury
Who ever took the 7 or 8 cams left a carin at the base as what I would assume as a big "F@ck you!". We are pretty crushed, as it was the majority of our offwidth gear and maybe 3-4 people knew where this route was located. It would have taken alot of work to get the gear off this project.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 23, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
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> You are saying that gear was left on the ground.
No, he said it would be very difficult to get the gear off of the project.
Unfortunately, there are a few people who can't resist unguarded gear, or gear they judge as abandoned, ugly, or "up for grabs" by their own rules. (I don't have any actual information on who it might have been, sorry).
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
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The gear was in situ on the second pitch, a solid 5.13 offwidth ROOF. This route has crushed all who have tried, and has been attempted by leaving gear in situ on it in the past. It would be VERY difficult just to aid out the roof to steal the gear, which is what happened.
One must climb a (5.10) chimney first pitch just to access the second pitch. Who ever took the gear couldn't even do the blue collar (5.9+) above the last two Bros to the anchor and lowered from them! They also left a lower Bro as well, weird. We didn't leave the gear in a pile at the base!!! This isn't Super Crack Tucker. It is the only route on the formation.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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May 23, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
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Climbers are great.
Except the climber thieves...who SUCK!!!!!
Hope you get your stuff back bro.
B
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The Guy
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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May 23, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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Karma...they'll get it and your gear will probably give it. I always assume that the people we need to worry about are the non-climbers. People who come across a bag and shoes next to a trail. They usually don't know what is going on. Especially if they don't know that people climb at that particular location. It's a sad day when we gotta worry about our own dirtbag climbing brothers.
Did you ask if maybe somoene else was projecting as well? Maybe they came along to start it and got pissed off that someone else was on it. Regardless, not cool and karma is real.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
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My friend Mason was working it last fall, but had a bum ankle this spring and was leaving it alone. We asked him for permission, and he was psyched that Pamela and I were trying it. Nobody else was working on it, or would really even want to. The creek was very busy during the beginning of our projecting it, but now the creek is empty. Maybe a dozen people total camping down here.
We are bummed and pissed. Not the optimal way to end 10 weeks in the desert.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 23, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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This is super wack. Im sorry some jerks would do this to other climbers. I thought we had more respect for each other than that. And to poach it from a new legend like Pamela, despicable.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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Thanks Jeremy. (and everyone else) That means alot. You are right, who the f@ck would do this?
We are trying to figure out a game plan right now, and I really appreciate you offering to help in a time of need.
I have never heard of this happening down here in the creek, and it hurts to think that someone would pull this sh#t.
Patrick
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
Arkansas, I suppose
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May 23, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
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Pretty whack when you can positively ID the thieves as climbers.
You like to have faith in your tribe, but you also have to realize your tribe encompasses some total dicks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 23, 2010 - 06:23pm PT
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That Bites, Patrick!
What a drag!
MF-ucker leave now, you have nothing to contribute here. You can just leave this, and all other, forums.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 23, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
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just a thought... did you check the cairn for a note?
Super lame either way though, hope you get your gear back.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 23, 2010 - 07:16pm PT
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Sic Scarpelli on them.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 23, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
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I'll keep my eyes and ears open.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 23, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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Pat and Shanti
That sucks, BIG TIME!!!!
I hope karma strikes fast and hard at the scumbag perps.
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Luke Malatesta
Big Wall climber
Moab UT
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May 23, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
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Pat/Pam.
Im sorry to hear about your gear. I will keep my ears peeled around town. Let me know if you need some wide stuff as I am heading westward in a couple of weeks and will not need some of it. Give me a call, you guys have my number. Thats F@!*ed that some one jacked it. It is a small town. Word will surface.
Luke
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 23, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
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I'd also mention it to Tracy and Gary @ Needles Oupost (they still there?) It'd be a long shot, but they might hear something.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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May 23, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
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Sorry to hear it Pat. Mason was just talking about that thing the other day. I'll keep an ear to the ground and an eye on the e-bay and whatnot.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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May 23, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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This sucks at every level. Sorry to hear it.
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WBraun
climber
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May 23, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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This is so sad.
You can't leave anything anywhere without somebody having to kill your buzz.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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May 23, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
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Patrick and Shanti- this totally blows and I feel incensed on your behalf. I am constantly amazed at how immature and immoral certain people can be. Unbelievable.
Could you please post an actual list of the gear that was stolen and if there are any markings to distinguish it? This is not your run-of-the mill gear the average person has lying around and it will stand our if someone tries to sell it or suddenly seems to have acquired a large amount of big-gear.
Let's keep this on the front page so folks have an idea what we are looking for. Hopefully they slip up and get busted.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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May 23, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
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So Sorry Pat,
Hopefully it will show up again!
That sucks!
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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May 23, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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This sucks! Hopefully you'll get your gear back.
I'd be willing to donate something for the wide and all I ask for in return is an awesome TR showing the piece in action.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 23, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
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Very sorry to hear about this, Pat.
It sounds like the list of suspects might not be a long one?
The cairn is an odd touch too.
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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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May 23, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
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Sh#t Pat
I hope you cross paths your gear soon.
Preferably with friends.
If thieves started mysteriously disappearing after they are found out maybe we would see less of this.
Put them on a stump with one quart of water and tell them you will be back next week.
(Side note) I guess the water will be a waste with hands tied behind back and rope tied to neck and branch or cliff above.
Maybe just maybe death is almost over kill maybe just the right index finger the first time.
So when I hike into canyon X as I have done before I leave my pack full of gear stashed for the next day,. is it trash for grabs?
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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May 23, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
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OOOOPS!!
I might have to apologize.
I apologize to PK for flaming.
I apologize to ST for having an rc.com moment.
Not deleting my poor post though. I'll let my mistake stand.
I miss read the OP.
So after ‘they’ took the gear, then ‘they’ built a cairn. Weird and a big FU.
I didn’t do it and just the reason I don’t leave anything unattended
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 24, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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Yeah MTucker you obviously don't leave your penis unattended. You give a whole new meaning to the term "hand out".
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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May 24, 2010 - 01:46am PT
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Weak.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 24, 2010 - 02:11am PT
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Today's demographics aren't without downsides...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 24, 2010 - 02:59am PT
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oh man
I'd offer up my BD#6s, but they ain't no WC 6s, that's fer sure.
any markings? the widefetish guys need to know too. post over there too PK!
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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May 24, 2010 - 03:14am PT
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I doubt it but this does sound weird. From MP project tonight. He claims three grand worth of gear.
Rolo
2 days ago
I was in a bad car accident and Im willing to sell complete climbing set for 300$ must see in person what I have, you will be amazed that im willing to sell for 300$ call me to see what I have oh and both sets of rope are brand new!
if You are from out of town you must pay shipping and handling
I will give whom ever buys equipment garantee Exam or try it out you will be in shock with with this deal
Raul James Salazar
702-768-8857
raulsalazar@ yahoo.com
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 24, 2010 - 10:47am PT
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I pity da fool...
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 24, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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Damn ninja thief climbers.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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May 24, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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Hey Patrick - sorry to hear about the gear being stolen - hope you get it back. We will keep our eyes and ears open for any "big gear FS" type ads.
Meanwhile, if you guys need some big gear, we have a few pieces we would be glad to lend. Let us know.
Erik
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 24, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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Mister E, you rock! I'll be keeping my eye out too. I really hope all your gear gets recovered.
Hugs, AFS
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 24, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
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It is a bummer that one can no longer leave gear at the crag. Unless you take it with you on the climb or down at the end of the day, more than likely it is going to take off with out you. A couple of weekends ago my partner were up a pitch when some kids come up the trail in an area that I have never before seen non-climbers get off the trail. Yet, they get off the trail, cross the 200' of snow, hop the creek, and are now making their way up the base of the crag. Being one pitch up we sit and we watch for 20 minutes to see what they are going to do. Fortunately, nothing but as Warner said what a buzz kill having to wait until continuing on. They eventually leave.
The climbing community is no longer a community. When it comes thieves it has not been for quite sometime. So no matter how far away, how remote, or how isolated you think a crag may be. Think again. No matter take your sh#t with with you as one can no longer have any expectation that it will still there when you return.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 24, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
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Sadly this is not new.
We got a large Yates stuck at the crux of Lucille on the FA in '88. Mike wisely unclipped and was thus able to follow free. When He went the next day, after I'd split back to Tempe, someone had already rapped in and nabbed it.
in '79 when we first went up there we left a rope fixed on Best 'o' the Blues. The next day we came back and the rope was gone. it had been cut, leaving enough tied around the 'bench' to serve as an anchor.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 24, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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A couple of weekends ago my partner were up a pitch when some kids come up the trail in an area that I have never before seen non-climbers get off the trail. Yet, they get off the trail, cross the 200' of snow, hop the creek, and are now making their way up the base of the crag. Being one pitch up we sit and we watch for 20 minutes to see what they are going to do.
Hey, where was that?
Been a fair amount of theft near the crags in the SLC area. Makes me wonder if a crime ring has been/is super active right now. Climbing gear fetches good money on cragslist/ebay/ksl, etc. Especially if there's a fence willing to trade drugs for stolen stuff. Those guys make money coming and going. Crazy.
On a longer route in J Tree over Bridwellfest. Three kids go off trail and hike up to near the base of the route (Saddle Rock) where we started. I'm super nervious, as, instead of leaving my wallet in the car (never a good idear), its in the top of my pack. We're only a pitch up and after a few minutes of observation, they didn't seem the types. Two young military guys and a gal. Gal was schoolin' them on scrambling up to be sure (pretty funny). Ended up being ok, but, I was pretty worried.
Best bet is to just not leave stuff layin' around I suppose. Wierd on an out of the way spot in the Creek, given the route you were workin', though. Post it on up on mountainproject and/or utahclimbers. Some of those guys hunt down cragslist for stolen gear everyday. A bunch of large cams wouldn't go unnoticed.
Good luck.
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salad
climber
Escondido
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May 24, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
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pk that sucks, sorry to hear.
i have an older bd #5 (green) id be happy to send out for you to use. its in near new condition.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 24, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
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PK,
Dude - that blows. Sorry the world has so many as#@&%es. May karma get the f*#kers and get them hard.
kev
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Bering Sea
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May 25, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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Hey thanks so much for all your support. It definately sucked to walk up to that route and notice our gear was gone. We sat there in tears (Pat just cried a little of course). We are still trying to figure out exactly what we had on it as Pat and I were putting in different gear and then will post on the Utah climbers site -- thanks for the suggestion! It looks like 5-6 new BD 5s and 3-4 BD 4s and/or 3.5s as well as 20 or so Neutrino and Spectre biners on new draws including one of those ridiculously stylish DMM Revolver biners. Again, thanks so much to you all it really helps knowing there are some nice and supportive people out there. ~Shanti
PS Riley glad you like that pic! I thought it was cool until I noticed I peeled the skin off a finger and then I made Pat take a pic cause I thought it was REALLY cool!!!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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May 25, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
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I have a Yates big dude I could lend/mail to you if you need big guns to keep the proj going. E-mail me if you want it.
Sorry about your gear. I reckon meth is the root of most of these thefts.
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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May 25, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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Is there a list of the stolen goods yet? Pictures and markings?
Big cams are not cheap for sure.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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May 25, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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Sorry to hear about the wide gear, or anybody's gear being stolen. It sounds like sort of an inside job. Somebody at least peripherally connected to the project may be the culprits.
Good luck on finding justice brothers.
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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May 25, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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Wow that sucks. Be sure to check ebay.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 25, 2010 - 06:19pm PT
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karma bump
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 25, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
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Bump to keep this on top.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 25, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
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Pat-
you've posted some good stuff on this forum. sorry this happened. maybe some one connected to the pro manufacturer's could help replace it at a discount? just thinking out loud.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 26, 2010 - 12:07am PT
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Sorry to hear about this. And even sorrier to realize that the thieves must be climbers.
But ours is a small world, and eventually someone will find them out. I know that doesn't make it any easier for you two today, but...
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krutley
climber
here, now
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May 26, 2010 - 12:41am PT
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Having read this thread to the end, and having a knot in my stomach to see the loss of integrity and respect in the climbing community (I think it started with sport climbing... ok, i'm kidding), I will say that aside from a couple of problem children, I am blown away at the support that I'm seeing from the rest of you remarkable folks. It's not good that the response is created by the theft, but I still applaud the response and the support.
Sorry, I have no gear to offer. I do hope to hear about what happens to the people that are caught. I have a good imagination if you need suggestions...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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May 26, 2010 - 12:51am PT
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Sounds like this offwidth demands more than a piece or two but you can have my #5 BD. Never been used. I could get it to Kevin in Butte or else to Bozeman.
Arne
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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May 26, 2010 - 10:06am PT
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Arne-
I could get it from Missoula to Kevin - I'm at Georgetown every weekend and
my wife works in Butte and can get it there.
Pat - I might have some stuff (tube chocks - #7 lowe tricam). Nothing bigger. One big bro i could make a long term loan.
Sorry for the bad expierence.
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Bering Sea
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May 27, 2010 - 01:29pm PT
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THANKS AGAIN!!!
Pat and I just want to thank everyone again for all the generous gear offers and support. Inspired by our lack of BD 4s and 5s we decided to go wider and do perhaps the first repeat (?) of Craig Leubben's 150' brutal squeeze chimmney the Dragon's Lair which required about 6 Blue Bros and a 12" VG!!!
Apparently the thief who stole our cams, but couldn't remove the Bros, didn't realize there's a COLLAR ya gotta turn on a Big Bro to remove it and that, no, slamming them with a nut tool will not help. So, now we're thinkin' of goin' Craig style -- skipping the cams and goin' ALL Big Bros -- gear thief proof!
PS Hey Jaybro that's 150' of Bruegal Chickens to you!!!
~Shanti and Pat
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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A couple shots of "bro-vision"
Pat lookin' for gear thieves..
Shanti scopin' out Pitch 3 of the Sorcerer
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quietpartner
Trad climber
Moantannah
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May 27, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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Avast, matey, now you can see thieves comin' from a loooong way away.
Good luck!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 27, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
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Man, I could go for a 150' Bruegal chicken right now!
Below, Natalie contemplates the sad case of an immature one, taken before it's time;
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Bering Sea
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May 27, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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Jaybro are ya thinkin' Chicken Wing or Teradactyl Wing? That's for REALLY wide chimneys?!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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May 27, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
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wow....that's super lame...wtf, I'm speechless
super sorry to hear this you two
Tom
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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May 27, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
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Pretty messed up scenario inflicted upon you two--hope the gear finds it way back to the owner(s)...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 27, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Maybe you can borrow some of Boku's rack?
If Trango had any marketing sense they would use that periscope pic!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 27, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
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Pat--was that really Shanti--I dunno, those hands looked pretty
. . .well not bloody, anyway...
hee hee hee. . .
Bump just to keep this one up. Hope you find the perps. . .
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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May 27, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
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I'll bump again with my funny big-bro story.
A few years ago I was given a #6 big bro. I sold it off to Russ W. but before I mailed it I played around with it a bit. I was under the impression they were screw-only and had no clue they are actually spring loaded. I was gazing straight down the business-end when I pushed the button deploying the thing right into my face.
Luckily- it didn't make full contact so I escaped getting knocked unconscious with a donut-shaped bruise in the middle of my forehead. Nearly gave me a heart attack though.
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Shanti
Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
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May 27, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
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Thank you all so much for the gear offers! Looks like we will be able to replace and/or do without most pieces BUT we lost all our old BD#4s - if anyone has one they don't use we would love to buy it or trade for small gear! ~Shanti and Pat
PS Jaybro is that the piece you'd place for the Teradactyl wing move?!
Note: Pat and I just read the Big Bro story and we're laughing too hard to drive right now. That's pretty much my worst nightmare btw. Good gaaaad.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 28, 2010 - 06:33am PT
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Albatross...:
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Any more news on this unfortunate event? ( good news, I hope?)
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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I'll be she knows how to spell "know".
idiot.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That makes 'know' sense, Medusa.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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It's true. The entire human race is a bunch of tools since they are not as gifted as you are.
Yes yes... and you sprung out of the womb with the intrinsic knowledge of everything under the sun about every single piece of climbing gear that ever is or was and have never done a single solitary stupid mistake in your entire life.
Edit to add... But thanks for bumping the thread.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oh
Reminds me, the first time I ever saw one was at Deseretmtn Sports in PHX. Cris raypole and I were, for some reason, drinking beers there, when in walks Craig with the bros. We get into this conversation about the wide and our mutual frieend Scarpelli and Squat which Craig had tested them on but at the time only Bob and I had ever free-ed.
Craig went into his speial with the owner, and we took one, for 'experiments.'
"chris, I have an idea, watch this."
I lined up an empty beer bottle and pressed the trigger. Much to my delight, there was a a loud crash, and a shattering of glass. MAn those sprindgs have umph, even back in '87 or whenever that was.
"hey don't do that, bad for the springs", said Craig. he either gave me that one ( the smallest one) then or shortly thereafter.
One of those big yellow ones, Skip? you're lucky you didn't get a concussion!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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I got a #4 big bro off of Bridewells rack. Not sure what to do with it - add it to my rack or use it as a club?
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Aug 14, 2010 - 03:57am PT
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What is the status?
Any sends??
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 14, 2010 - 04:12am PT
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I heard a homless guy wearing cast off mystery spot shirts and depends has been working it with the purloined rack. He told Stacy and Gary he's an undercover health inspector/ morals cop or somesh#t. Definitely using the August heat for cover....
Gawd people in thee desert are odd.......
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Nate Dizzle
climber
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I have heard that perhaps it was the original poster who stole the gear. Additionally, I heard that the free gear folks sent to said poster was actually sold for personal gain. I'm not normally one for confrontation or controversy, but it would be fascinating to see the truth of this played out on the interwebs if there is indeed a lying thief among us. If none of this is true, my apologies in advance.
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