Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic |
dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 12, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
|
Have an opportunity to go climbing for a change and was thinking of going to someplace new. Looking for easy relaxing climbing (off the couch stuff) 5.8 to 5.9 well protected, my friend suggested either Courtright or Domelands. I being an old face climber like the sound of Domelands and heard it has casual approaches. I have always wanted to check out Courtright as I heard good stuff about it too.
Any details on the two areas is appreciated.
|
|
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
|
|
|
May 12, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
|
never been there myself, but they sure sound fun. shipoopoi
|
|
dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
|
Yep it is I, and Elliot did reach me. I have his number now.
Yo Shipoopi. Ask Oravetz if he has ever been to those areas.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:06am PT
|
I hate to admit this, but I've never climbed at Domelands. I love Courtright, although the road is under eight-foot snowdrifts at present.
John
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:54am PT
|
I've only been to Domelands as I like the remoteness and solitude.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 01:34am PT
|
I have spent a lot of time in both areas. They are both beautiful but different, and these are, thankfully places where a climber will have to invest some time to get to know their way around before they can say: "Been there done that."
I see people compare Courtright to Tuolomne and I laugh. Yes, high country domes but other than that little similarity.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 02:03am PT
|
PM Loomis. He's your Domelands man.
|
|
Loomis
climber
*_*
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 06:44am PT
|
The rock at both places sucks, better find a place like a well managed climbing gym.
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 10:09am PT
|
Courtwright is great! Power Dome is a really fun location for some great 5.9 5 pitch type stuff. As Jeleaz. said though, access road must be a month away from opening. Penstemon Dome is also nice.
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
|
I'm not sure I'd call Domelands approaches casual. I like the Domelands, though, and the Southern Sierra in general.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
|
Gary, I'll raise you a Power Dome (Courtright)
And a view from the camping.
I love Courtright. Really nice up there. Domelands looks cool too though...
EDIT: Holy!!! Normally I'd apologize for pics that big, but it gives ya more detail of The Dome....
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
|
The easiest route on P-Dome.....'A Little Nukey' (5.9-)
The Mooch Man forgot his climbing shoes and ended up climbing in the Mountain Masters...
Kris Solem pulling up on 'Smiladon' (.12b)
Mr. Courtright himself, Herb Laeger, working dah slab on the back side of Trapper Dome.
Here's a link to the Courtright page on Summitpost.org:
http://www.summitpost.org/logistical-center/151531/courtright-reservoir.html
|
|
Loomis
climber
*_*
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
|
Courtright, terrible I tell ya!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
|
Domelands is definately more remote/back country. Courtwright is more link Toulumne but spread out. Both are great places. Not everything in the domelands area is snowed in right now (well at least I don't believe everything is). The road to courtwright prolly wont open till mid june. If you need road updates I can find out more from a buddy who used to live up there.
kev
|
|
Loomis
climber
*_*
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
|
Domelands, even worse!
Really, go to the gym.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
|
Nice pics, dudes....
Courtright kicks assssssssss!!!!!!
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
|
I love Courtright. Really nice up there. Domelands looks cool too though...
I hear ya, bluering. Penstemmon Dome and Tiger Wall, what's not to like?
But I do like backpacking into Bart Dome and camping at the base for a few days.
|
|
FTOR
Sport climber
CA
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
|
made it to courtright once, so long ago those brain cells have long since cease to function. always wanted to climb domelands but never made it there, pics have always looked awesome... not much help here.
-rob
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
|
I love Courtright.
One thing to consider though. With the exception of Power Dome during the first part of the day, most of the good faces have all day sun exposure. July and August can be brutal up there. Tiger Wall gets morning shade as does the back side of spring dome. Leopold Dome goes in the shade in the afternoon. You can catch some morning shade on the west side of Trapper (that's where Loomis is, doing Nosferatu, in his nice pics upthread,) but you better be an early riser.
Later, in September and on 'till the snow flies it is magnificent though.
Church Dome, right on the edge of the Domelands Wilderness always has shady sides when it's hot.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
|
Big thumbs up on 'Zodiac Mind Warp'!! Nice shot, Scott.
Kris, howzit going? Gonna be able to hit Shuteye this year? Guyzo too?
|
|
dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
|
Excellent photos. Making it hard to pick between the two. I am planning on going the first week of June, so I am concerned about snow, especially this year. Where is a good early season spot at either place? Also, where can I get my hands on topos for both places?
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
|
Early season is the time for Bart Dome. If the Cherry Hill Road is open to Big Meadow, then you can hike out to Bart and expect there to be water. It goes dry by summer. Courtright is best toward the end of summer.
The camping at Bart Dome is world class if its not dry.
Mooch - I'm doing great. I dunno about specific plans yet though. Got a big project to finish in another area. We'll see.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
|
Kris, if you can make Shuteye I'd make it!
I still have yet to meet a bunch of the gang out there. Looking forward to it this year though. Salsafest???
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
|
Cherry Hill road is usually open for Memorial Day weekend, Call ahead to the USFS to find out.
If you are into easy approaches and spurt climbs Church Dome is your huckleberry. Taylor meadow is also one of the best car camping areas anywhere.
The rest of Domelands is the real back country deal with some commitment required, but it's worth it!.
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
|
The biggest difference in these two areas is WATER...
Gary, see that dome directly behind Bart Dome is Stegosaurus Dome. 'Did a route on it sometime back that was about five pitches long, "Naked Lunch" 5.8
'Had to dig around a wet spot to acquire some water out of a spring.
 ec
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
|
great scott!
the pretty one out there is radiant dome. one of these?
|
|
Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
|
I went to Courtright years ago with Todd Gordon, it was simply fantastic. One of the best climbing trips EVER...over 30 years of rock climbing! At the time Lowe TriCams were MANDATORY; I'm guessing they still are...
|
|
papa_eos
Trad climber
conejo valley, california
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
|
I would go to Courtright, due to the proximity to the lake and water availability. However this year it might be open right at July 4th weekend.
Here is a link to road conditions:
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/sierra/recreation/recreports/roads.shtml
It may be an old number but 559-841-3404 was the Dinkey Creek Ranger station and 559-855-5360 was the Prather Station. I'm sure they have up-to-date info.
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
|
May 13, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
|
The big pics blew the OP off the screen and I didn't scroll over till now.
There are some casual gear routes at Church and on the Fist and the Knuckles on the way in to Bart.
Bart has one 5.7 gear route, Aquaman. From then on most of the routes are all .9 and up, Suicide/Tuolumne style sparsely protected slab (on God knows how old bolts) for the first pitch, gear protected crack or steep face with some bolts and gear for the second pitch followed by a sea of chickenheads and topped of with an "interesting" descent. (at least the first time you do it)
Never been to Courtwright yet, but after seeing the photo, I guess I'd better get my azz up there.
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 01:24am PT
|
ec: Gary, see that dome directly behind Bart Dome is Stegosaurus Dome. 'Did a route on it sometime back that was about five pitches long, "Naked Lunch" 5.8
'Had to dig around a wet spot to acquire some water out of a spring.
Never been back to Stegasaurus. My photo was taken from Rockhouse Peak. I'd like to get to that low dome that is in line with Bart sometime. Someone once said that was Radiant Dome, but that doesn't seem to jive with the map in Greg's guide book.
TGT, yes, that descent from Bart is "interesting!" :-)
BTW, that hike from Bart to Rockhouse was a great hike.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 01:42am PT
|
TGT, when you're ready, I'll be there I hope!
Let's rock!
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 02:51am PT
|
Gary,
That is Radiant. It looks totally different from the ground. On it there's the Beckey Route, Return to Forever and the free version Loominosity...It's better to just go and wander around and climb than to trust the guidebook.
Radiant, center-right
ec
|
|
Loomis
climber
*_*
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 10:32am PT
|
Morning bump for Courtright, enjoy!
Scott
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 10:36am PT
|
i packed in a full-size guitar to bart dome once. i'll do anything for a captive audience.
beckey has tried to be the first climber up every bas relief on the planet. i loved the crazy creek chair ad he did. bardini web page may still have an interesting account of a recent encounter between him and tm herbert in tuolumne. becky had talked some young buck into driving him all the way down from seattle. jon krakauer tried to portray beckey as over-the-hill--many years ago. beckey won't go over the hill as long as there's another one he has to climb.
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
|
ec, thanks for the confirmation.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
BITD
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
|
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 04:09pm PT
|
Voyager
And Penstemon (and Punk Rock, I believe, in the background)
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
|
That's Dusy in the back. You can just see the shoulder of Punk right foreground.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
|
Dusy.....got back there once. 'Fat Men In Diapers'.....edging and steep slab. Wear a diaper before you cast off!
Keep 'em coming Scott!!
Kris on 'Carson-Kodas Arete' (.11bR)
KSolem's significant other, Barbara (aka "UberBabs") on 'Esto Power' (.10d)
Eve Laeger leading the FA of "Eve of Distruction" 5.10d, Voyager Dome
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
|
Kris - Voyager gets shady about 3pm *
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 04:56pm PT
|
Kris - Voyager gets shady about 3pm *
Hi Al...
Yes you're right, gradually from right to left.
So how many folks have walked or boated down to the other end of the lake and done the Laeger/Leversee ultra classic route on Locke Rock called "Best in the West?"
I've done it twice, once with Rachel McCollum and then with Brent Ingrahm.
It's quite the climb! Here's the view from the top.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
|
that's a little ways in there.
look for the signal!
one if by land, two if by boat!
a whole six pack if more than 2 hours...
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
|
'Course it'd be cheating, but you could also tag along with a serious jeeper on the Dusy-Ershim OHV route to get out there. You'd probably be able to walk there in the same amount of time, however...
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
|
It's a nice walk along the east lakeshore and up the meadows. The road is dusty.
It's about 8 miles one way. Or you can start from the end of the road by the cottages past Trapper Springs and connect with some good trails around that side of the lake.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
|
California is certainly the slab climbing capital of the Universe- is that a good thing?
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 08:45pm PT
|
is that a good thing?
It's a great thing. I really like hard slab climbs. Hard to where they are steep - none of this stinkbug biz, butt all up in the air and stuff.
It's funny, you'll find people climbing steep routes on all kinds of rock, choss and beyond, but a really high quality slab climb only happens on perfect rock.
Here's a Courtright view from a different perspective, the south face of Power Dome with it's famous red intrusion. Voyager looms in the distance.
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
|
Nice pics Kris, I almost hate to see the word get out. Courtright is indeed a very special place. Hope all that go there keep that in mind. IMHO Power Dome has the best face climbing on the planet.
Peace to All
lars
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
|
Dave, in reality at the beginning of June you probably don't have a choice this year. Courtwright will not be open while the Domelands will. If you want to climb without packing in, then go climbing at Church Dome. 30 minute approaches with sweet granite ears to wrap your fingers around. And well enough bolted to not scare you. And except for us maybe, you won't see another soul the entire time.
|
|
dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:43am PT
|
Thanks all for the advice, much appreciated. Think I will check out Church dome it sounds like the best bet for early season and will have some mellow climbs for me to get my feet wet again. Thanks for the links to the guidebooks and road conditions. Anyone have just a topo for Church dome and the approach?
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
May 15, 2010 - 09:55am PT
|
ski into courtright.
ah, there's the red intrusion--and i've been looking for them under my bed.
|
|
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
|
Wow, great stuff and thanks for the photos, all!
Re. “red intrusion” on Power Dome…
That looks like a small screen of older metamorphic rock – a remnant of what was there before the onset of magmatism and the emplacement of the Sierra Nevada Batholith. It also appears that there are two dikes (either host granitoid or aplite/pegmatite) that cut the metamorphic rock, meaning that the “red” rock must be older. So, it’s not an intrusion by any means; the granitic rock (magma) is what did the “intruding.”
Never been to Courtright, but would really like to! Both the climbing and the geology look fantastic!
edit: Based mainly on the reddish-brown color of the metamorphic rock, I’d guess a sedimentary protolith (as opposed to volcanic…). Really cool photo, Kris!
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
|
Church Dome approach is pretty easy if you pay attention and all of the signs are in place. You want to go up the road along the Kern river heading north out of Kernville. Turn right before going over the bridge and go up Sherman Pass toward Kennedy Meadows. Near the top turn right on Cherry Hill Rd. At this point stay on the main road following signs for Big Meadow. When you get to Big Meadow start following signs to Taylor Meadow. Follow these until you see Taylor Creek show up on a sign and then follow those. You can camp here at the creek or you can go past the creek to the end of the road where you turn right and go up a steeper road. Follow this, staying left at the only choice and when it dead ends you will be at the other camp spot and the closest walking approach. You can also park about a 100 yards sooner in a clearing on the right.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
May 17, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
|
Good one Jan, now I'm gonna have to pull a "Germans in the Battle of The Bulge" type manuever and flip around a few of the signs... ;-)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Cherry Hill is not open as of May 30th...
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
Ah, sweet dreams of Courtright this summer ..
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
|
Bump because this thread is badass.
Where do you access Domelands from? Can you get to it from the east side?
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
|
There are at least two ways in from the east side, (never done either one)
They involve more hiking and negotiating a crossing of the Kern river.
It's probably not the best way to get to Bart, but there's a bunch of interesting looking rock east and down hill from there.
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
|
Dcaunt did you get your feet wet?
|
|
dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
|
Yea but not at either courtwright or domelands, still want to visit those places.
Went to someplace down by Whitney on the east side. A place where they use to shoot western movies in the old days, forgot the name already.
These days I spend most of my exciting life playing disc golf and drinking beer. Still keep the climbing thoughts going tho, by reading this forum.
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
|
A place where they use to shoot western movies in the old days, forgot the name already.
Alabama Hills perhaps?
|
|
dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
|
Alabama hIlls, now thats a low stress climbing area if I ever saw one. Nobody around, short approaches, dry and hot, and most everything is 5.10 or less face climbs. Fun place, but certainly does not compare to courtwright.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
KSolem
So how many folks have walked or boated down to the other end of the lake and done the Laeger/Leversee ultra classic route on Locke Rock called "Best in the West?"
More info? Last time I was at Courtwright I looked back at Locke Dome and marveled at the potential. That was a few years ago. I found some info online but not much.
I'm thinking of a Labor Day trip out there with the wife. Was looking at some stuff on Voyager and planned to camp there. Scouting Google Earth and some other sources it appears the Dusy Ershim trail goes within 1/4 mile of Locke Dome. So, spill the beans please. lol
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
I'm on my way into Kings Canyon right now. Next week I'll dig up this thread and share my Locke Rock / Best in the West stories. It's a great, but serious climb. The fact that I went out and did it a second time indicates that I probably have issues when it comes to common sense.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
I'm OK with serious. Sometimes I actually seek them out. I bet our common senses are close to the same. Enjoy Kings and thanks. Talk to you in a week or so.
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
Yea...
Locke Rock
Started a route there w/Steve "Lucky" Smith in 85' - got three pitches up beautiful rock on the monolithic West Face before we ran out of time. Should of had a boat and a power drill !
|
|
Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
After roasting in Shuteye and Yosimite last week, I wish I had gone to soggy bottoms Tuolumne in hindsight.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!