The Art of Bouldering John Gill AAJ 1969

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
klk

Trad climber
cali
Dec 5, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
yeah, second, i was especially happy to see that achey piece which i really liked when it came out.

i've been looking for that issue recently and wasn't able to find it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
I haven't forgotten your request...Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
First bump in a while...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 30, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
Wow, what an awesome thread. Thanks for the bump. Very cool articles & great inspiration to hear John's point of view both then & now. Thank you. I couldn't imagine eliminating heel hooks from my bouldering repertoire, especially in Squamish! Just a testament to how important style & quality of movement were during that era. Amazing.
T H

Boulder climber
ne'erdowell
Oct 10, 2015 - 11:10pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
LongAgo

Trad climber
Oct 10, 2015 - 11:48pm PT
"These articles are painful to read! They seem incredibly dated, and my writing skills were minimal.."

Beg to disagree. Your passion and focus come through strongly in your writing.

Bows and thanks to you John for your singular and devoted climbing path in the day. You demonstrated early on what eventually comes to those who reflect honestly and deeply on the game: the most fulfilling climbing pays little heed to trends and tick marks on the climbing boards and instead looks to feed the soul. Thank you.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 11, 2015 - 12:03am PT

Great thread. TFPU!

As a follow-up to no-heel-hooks: Was "open hand grip contra crimp grip" a style issue that was considered at the time?
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Oct 11, 2015 - 07:44am PT
From a j.gill post above:

Whether a problem was difficult or easy to solve didn't make much difference to me; if it was easy and was appealing, I would work on polishing my performance, like a gymnast doing his best with a simple routine, enjoying the kinaesthetics as much as the challenge.

This is one aspect of bouldering that never really caught on in the mainstream, except by necessity on really hard problems. I think there is a lot to be said for "form". Gymnasts and divers, for example, are judged not only on degree of difficulty, but on execution - perfection of movement.

I like developing bouldering circuits that you just get totally wired after a while. I used to really enjoy watching John "the Birdman" at Gunsmoke in Josh in the 80s and 90s, talk about perfection of movement! It really teaches you just how efficient climbing can be, and you can work towards developing that same perfection of movement in your onsight climbing as well.

P.S. Too bad this thread only has 30 replies in 5 years . . .
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 11, 2015 - 07:55am PT
In 1972 Steve Wunsch and I were in the Black Hills and decided to have a go at the Thimble....with a top rope of course. After flailing around and noticing that when we fell the top rope kept us from being guillotined by the guardrail below, are already high regard for John's exploits shot up another notch.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Oct 11, 2015 - 11:01am PT
I'm glad this thread was bumped and I got a chance to see it. The book "Master of Rock" was an important influence for me and bouldering has been a life long interest even though I've never been very good at it.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Oct 11, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
As a follow-up to no-heel-hooks: Was "open hand grip contra crimp grip" a style issue that was considered at the time?

There were very few style issues 50-60 years ago. I prefered to avoid heel-hooks but everyone else considered them admirable. Nothing about types of grip. Jim Holloway popularized the open-hand friction grip during the 1970s and 1980s.


Thanks for the kind words, Tom. I have great memories of watching you and Bob doing first ascents in the needles - cool and precise!

;>)
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Oct 11, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
look at the duds on those dudes. pretty spiffy attire there, Mr. Gill.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 19, 2015 - 08:05am PT
Space holding bump
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 19, 2015 - 11:40am PT
F10???!!!!?!?!?!?


But what about all the VB problems?????!!!!!!



My 8a.nu scorecard is done for.


:)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
I give thanks for John Gill.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2016 - 10:23pm PT
And his amazing historical legacy...
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Sep 10, 2016 - 10:27pm PT
Indeed, a thankee to Cpt Gill!

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 11, 2016 - 12:16am PT
Dear jgill, I'm having trouble picturing the Mental Block.

My friend Carl told me my shoes were laced way too tight.

Have you ever heard of this?

--Knut from Butte
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2017 - 10:07am PT
Masterful Bumpage...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2018 - 01:44pm PT
Amazing how popular the bouldering game has become considering it started with a handful of stalwarts...and an occultist or two.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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