Yosemite Big Walls - 3rd Edition - What do you want to see?

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 61 - 80 of total 88 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Dave C

Trad climber

Louisville CO

May 11, 2010 - 01:07pm PT

Include all the free routes. A separate free topo would be nice instead of just free var. marked.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

May 11, 2010 - 01:33pm PT

Sometimes it's not clear when free is indicated on the topo whether it means a section of mandatory 5.whatever or that the whole pitch goes free at that grade.

Also, a couple of times the free ratings have seemed to be what the topoist thought the pitch looked like it would go at if they were free climbing. I think I passed beta long on a couple of these (i.e. 5.8 that is really 5.11). As someone mentioned up above, the beta that you guys provide is usually so good and the belief is that you've done it yourself, so one's guard is especially low when it comes to taking free ratings w/ such a big grain of salt.

Re: free only grades...If I see 5.whatever or C1 I'm more psyched to free it b/c I know it's supposed to be well protected!

Style notes on the free climbs might be an interesting and historically worthy addition.

Some clear indications of what one might expect when they try to get on the Nose in June might help some poor travellers out (and maybe spread them onto other routes). It's one thing to say that they may need to wait a couple of days to start, but it might be worthwhile to say that the average party that starts, probably doesn't finish, and that there is generally a giant cluster finkle somewhere above Sickle Ledge that even competant parties might not be able to bust through w/ the time (or water) that they have available.

bringmedeath

climber

la la land

May 11, 2010 - 01:38pm PT

Used to hang out with someone who said he did The White Room.

mr p

Big Wall climber

eastside ca

May 11, 2010 - 01:49pm PT

with regard to the white room the second was johnson, foz, dorton some of the pitches can be down rated Godzilla was a-3 p expando but Walt's topos were simply
the best Walt counted the # of holes and the ratings were dead on at the time of the first he was a mechanical engineer talk about meticulous not to mention he had a photographic memory the Walt show was a site he had
total recall of every placement, move,hold etc

bringmedeath

climber

la la land

May 11, 2010 - 02:03pm PT

Mr P, do you happen to be the man who put up the route?

crazymountaingoat

Big Wall climber

modesto, ca

May 11, 2010 - 02:08pm PT

ALL known assents!!!!! i wish there was a guide that had all recorded routes in the valley.free, aid or otherwise. just put it all in one place. when you go to do a climb and the guide you hvae only has select climbs of an area. you could see other climbs with bolts or tat and be misdirreected by the guide. if the guide had everything, confusion at the base would be greatly reduced. also like someone else said. more routes to keep traffic jams to a minimum.

one other note: i don't think that any route should be included if there has been no recent assent to verify the topo. people assume that the guide is accurate and if something is missing or wrong it could cause some pretty major trouble for someone.

either way, im stoked for the new guide.

GhoulweJ

Trad climber

Sacramento, CA

May 11, 2010 - 02:15pm PT

Chris, you might think that I'm out of line here, but these books you write are just bulls**t. I mean really, You are just writing what you should be telling me.

When I go the valley, I expect you to be right the f' there next to me giving me the beta that you know I need right at that moment. You writing these books and expecting me to "go do it" is just selfish on your part. I expect better service from you. If I'm shelling out $35 of my hard earned cash you need to be there when I need you... Really man... This is nuts.

One time, I just went out and used your guide. It said to bring one #1.... Dude I totally needed two of them WTF???

Oh yeah, and one time, I used your book and aided this pitch and it turns out I could of freed it, WTF? you totally robbed me of the best climbing day of my life.

Dude, you need a time out to just think about things.

NOTE to all: Sarcasim

mr p

Big Wall climber

eastside ca

May 11, 2010 - 07:45pm PT

that be me i scoped it and walt was the surgeon general!!!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

May 11, 2010 - 08:14pm PT

Can someone point out to me a 5.7 or 5.8 pitch that cannot be aid climbed (Apron excluded)? Do really need the guidebook to tell you that the next section of 5.8 can be aid climbed? Are you that dependent on the guidebook and that unsure of your own abilities to read the rock?

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

May 11, 2010 - 08:43pm PT

Mark...What's it to you if someone, like me, is keen to know that bit of beta?

You sure were keen on beta for the Freerider. Beta is the cat's pajamas when you're making plans near your limit, and for plenty of otherwise competent wall climbers, 5.8R is very near a limit...or even a disqualifier for route selection. Even if it's well within the zone, C1 is just another way of saying "good pro" or "don't change your boots" or "not a problem if it's wet".

You can think that those of us who are not trying to climb as free as can be or as free as you personally define as easy don't deserve to be there standing in slings on 5.8 all that you'd like, but if our skills actually are sufficient to take us to the summit by hook or by crook...which is sorta the point for many people when they get on a wall that is predominately climbed with aid...we're going to keep letting each other know how hard the aid and free is so that we can choose routes that jive with our own sense of confidence in our skills. Knowing what can't be aided is also motivation for us ladder standers to improve our skills so we can be ready for sections like the Texas Flake that can't be aided too.

It's true that some routes would be less crowded if only people who were better climbers did them. It's true, but it's not going to happen like that. People who don't get scared on anything less than 5.10 are probably the minority of Yosemite big wall climbers and Chris' customers. I'd be curious to know what % purchasers of Supertopo Big Walls max out on a Grade V C2? Even for us punters that do more than that, the guide is as much of a fantisizing tool as it is a guide for our whopping one or less climb per year. Beta helps with that semi-fiction. Like a TR.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

May 11, 2010 - 08:55pm PT

Mark...What's it to you if someone, like me, is keen to know that bit of beta?

You sure were keen on beta for the Freerider. Beta is the cat's pajamas when you're making plans near your limit, and for plenty of otherwise competent wall climbers, 5.8R is very near a limit...or even a disqualifier for route selection. Even if it's well within the zone, C1 is just another way of saying "good pro" or "don't change your boots" or "not a problem if it's wet".

That's a fair and accurate rebuttal. I'll go for that.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

May 11, 2010 - 08:56pm PT

Thanks. Sorry if I came on a little strong.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

May 11, 2010 - 09:02pm PT

Oh no, you should argue forcefully, fairly but forcefully.

OlympicMtnBoy

climber

Seattle

May 17, 2010 - 01:26pm PT

Chris asked "Anyone know where to find the AAJ FA account?"

The AAJ is now entirely online and completely searchable from 1929-last year: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/aajsearch

Great resource if any of you are looking for FA info, or trying to identify new or obscure routes (just search for the formation).

Peter12345

Trad climber

California

May 18, 2010 - 05:19am PT

A printed book obviously has page limitations but PDF does not. Including all routes helps navigate - identify the target route among possibilities. As was said above, more routes helps spread people and shorten lines. That said, not all routes have to have a detailed description, especially if it is not well known.

Alone

Trad climber

Nevada City CA.

Jul 18, 2010 - 07:09pm PT

Please include all the free routes in the book, you did a great job with including first ascent history. What about first free ascent history.
Thanx..
Keep up the great work!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Jul 18, 2010 - 07:35pm PT

How about a recommendation that everyone captures their urine and carry it off the climb?

Roxy

Trad climber

CA Central Coast

Jul 18, 2010 - 10:10pm PT

bump for responsible waste management

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jul 18, 2010 - 10:16pm PT

What would I like to see- frankly, nothing. It would be nice to see info. on other big walls around the World that don't have volumes written about them.