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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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what can you say, there is nothing.
only positive aspect i can think of is we learn something to help us.
where is that 101 Ways To Die Why Rapping article?
no search engine luck.
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brat
climber
El Portal
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One "above" the other on the tails? I've seen it many times from many climbers. Does that description make sense?
Werner, you were there, weren't you?
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WBraun
climber
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Yeah, I was there.
It was pretty dramatic ....
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Love and well wishes to Brian's friends and family, and to the climbers and rescuers who dealt with this accident. This is very sad.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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My blessings to his friends and family.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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I agree with Werner if we need to start a new thread for this, then do it.
I understand the system that was supposed to be in use.
What I DO NOT understand is the system that was in use that caused the accident.
I'm not seeing the EDK setup here.
Would someone please explain it?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Werner, I don't know how you do this sh#t. I got a lot respect for you guys.
God bless ya, and may you not be burdened with this stuff.
You always get the bad side of the situation. Mucho respect, bro, to you and your team.
I don't think people realize what you see and have to deal with. I can't imagine.
Rock on, Werner Braun!
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Hell A
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Werner, I don't know how you do this sh#t. I got a lot respect for you guys.
God bless ya, and may you not be burdened with this stuff.
You always get the bad side of the situation. Mucho respect, bro, to you and your team.
I don't think people realize what you see and have to deal with. I can't imagine.
Rock on, Werner Braun!
agreed
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Matt M
Trad climber
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YosGuns description of "the right way" is correct regarding rapping a single large line with a retrieval cord.
Without a eye witness description you're left with: Two EDKs? Knot Pulling Though?
If the knot did pull through it must have been a LARGE rap ring or something else. A 10mm + 6mm cord in an EDK is large enough to get stuck in a FIXE ring and/or a quick link.
Note that EDKs should really only be used with equal size ropes. Even with the double EDK I'm not sure it's a good idea.
Now, if the climber rapped BOTH lines there are other issues at play. The biggest being that cords of un-equal diameter pass though a rap device at different rates. If the knot on top isn't on the correct side you can have your tails end up being off in length enough to be a huge issue.
Pure speculation until we get an authoritative account...
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brat
climber
El Portal
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The climber was doing a single line rappel on a Cinch on the lead rope, with a 6 mm cord joined to it with an EDK (and another EDK for backup) to retrieve the line.
Please be patient. His partner on the climb, who is here with me now, will post a full account when he is ready.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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brat - Please tell your friend to take his time. I think we can all hold our collective breath until he feels well and ready to relive this terrible event.
We can only imagine what it is like for him right now.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Condolences to the family. Sorry to read this! I just started reading with great interest in how this happened. Lame question....What is a "EDK" ??
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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European Death Knot
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Agreed. Tell to take his time.
Again, I'm very sorry this happened.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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The community has lost another Brother.....So sorry to hear this.
Condolences to Friends and Family!!!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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I'm very sorry to hear of this. My condolences, too, to the family and all friends gathered.
EDK is a very unfortunate name for a useful and safe knot. We as a community need to come up with a new name. I'm normally resist sanitizing names, but it's distracting, especially here.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Tragic. My condolences to family and friends and much appreciation to those who were on the scene.
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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We used tie a 7mm to the old fat 11's and rap both lines. For tough pulls, put 7 thru anchor for easy pull. What's wrong with that system? We did it for years, were we just dumb lucky?
BH
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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bee, I also used a 7mm and rapped both ropes for years. Always put the fat rope through the anchor. Always felt safe. Very sorry to hear about this accident. I have no idea how many times I rapped from the same spot.
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