The List - A Jim Sweeney writeup

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Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Topic Author's Original Post - May 2, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
Just thought I would bring a little climbing literature from some locals in Alaska to the scene. This was just a writeup in the local free paper. I began climbing after these guys had passed, I had no idea the footsteps I was coming into. You can still see their impact and the emptyness they left and I didn't even know them. Its pretty amazing all that they accomplished.

Original Article Here:
http://208.109.242.142/archives/archives-2004/feature2vol13ed10.shtml

The list

An ice climber's sad diary

By James P. Sweeney

Andy Embick's list still hangs on the wall in his Valdez house. The list haunted me while I did yoga and exercises the other night. It includes trips, goals and other things my friend wrote down before he died May 28, 2003.

Andy and his wife Kathy Todd were a great source of inspiration to me ever since climber Steve Garvey brought me to their home in 1987. Our trip in 1987 is legendary in the climbing world. We, mostly Steve, blazed a 1,000-foot route that we called “Sans Ami,” which means “without friends” in French. We completed “Sans Ami” during the second week of the 1987 Valdez Ice Climbing Festival. Andy, the father of the festival, launched it in 1983.

In Andy's Blue Ice and Black Gold, his authoritative 1989 guide to climbing around Valdez, he and Chuck Comstock interviewed Steve and me about our “Sans Ami” climb. Somewhere I have pictures of all of us. We were young, thin and happy. We were wild-looking.

Today, 17 years later, Steve Garvey, Chuck Comstock and Andy Embick are all dead. Embick took his life. Some say Garvey and Comstock killed themselves, too. By all rights, I should be dead from all my time in the mountains. Somehow I was spared.

I'm a complete wreck these days. I'm bitter, sad, angry and confused. My girlfriend and I recently broke up, but what really bothers me is that I don't get to see her dog, Toula, anymore. Toula was a snow white, yellow lab with a black nose. I raised and trained her. She meant everything to me this past year. She was by my side as I mourned for my lost friends. I arranged my jobs so she could be there with me at all times. I got up early and stayed up late to be with her. Some nights, I'd lay on her bed when I couldn't sleep.

After losing Toula and breaking up with my girlfriend, I checked into the Executive Suite motel in Anchorage and buried myself in my job. I got sadder and more bitter as each day passed. Nobody called. When I finished my job, I decided I needed to go to Valdez, the place where I spent so much time with Andy, Steve and Chuck.

Before I left, I spoke to the wife of my best friend, Dave Nyman, who saved my life on Mount Johnson. She told me to stay away from the town. “Suicide is an epidemic, and in your state of mind, you shouldn't go there,” she lectured me. I told her I had a great love for life and I knew which way was up.

Fortunately, I had a good partner I was traveling with, John Wieland - another climber with no good reason why he's still alive. For six days, we climbed, skied and reminisced about Andy, Steve and Chuck. Andy's inspiration was a constant topic. In fact, I started my own list of goals, like that one that still hangs in Andy's house.

Get a dog

Build a home

Climb both Bridalveil and Greensteps in a single day

Not being much of a paper-pusher, this is where my list stopped. Naturally, I moved to No. 3. Bridalveil and Greensteps are icefalls in Keystone Canyon, 12 miles from Valdez. When you drive through the canyon, they are quite visible, only a five-minute walk from the road across the frozen Lowe River.

On February 12, my birthday, I went to Keystone Canyon and climbed the first two pitches of Greensteps with my friends. I drove back to Valdez alone and went to Andy's wife's house. After Andy's wake last June, Kathy said she would be disappointed if we climbers and skiers quit coming to her home. I was scared of my sadness.

That night, I did my exercises under Andy's list, then took a sauna alone. I had to duck under the boat Andy rode to his death. (Andy took his homebuilt rowing scull on Prince William Sound and shot himself. The boat, 24 feet long and weighing only 65 pounds, looks like a shark. “The Stealth,” some called it.)

Steve's picture hung on a cabinet door. Chuck's presence was everywhere. My chest hurt. I missed Toula so badly. I was with ghosts. But they wouldn't have anything to do with my sorrow. Andy never could deal with my pain. Steve always said, “If you're not a climber, who is?” Chuck, well, he was a prick, in the best of all ways, of course.

I left Kathy's and went to the Oaken Keg. I bought four big bottles of beer: two Raspberry Lambics, a Coho Red and a Arrogant Bastard. The women behind the register wished me a happy birthday. I drove to Brian Teale's house for dinner. Kirsten, Pete and Dean Cumming (world extreme-skiing and heli guide) were all there. They got me laughing a bit, and I was thankful to be with them, but I couldn't shake how badly I felt. I told them I'd rather fall of a mountain than feel like this. I left my friends, went back to Kathy's and cried with my ghosts.

The next day was Friday the 13th, so I took a rest. Steve Garvey died on Friday the 13th. He cut his rope on sharp rock while climbing near Middle Glacier in the Portage Valley.

On February 14th, Valentine's Day, I woke up early. I was still a wreck. I went to the Eagle supermarket and bought flowers and chocolate for Kathy. The next day, my buddy Joel showed up. He was ready to help me make good on my goal - ascend Bridalveil and Greensteps icefalls in a single day, both of which are about 650 feet. After a long ski, we hung out at Kathy's and sharpened our tools and crampons.

February 16 came in clear and cold; the digital in front of the Totem Inn read eight degrees. We drove to Bridalveil for our first climb. Any hope for an easy day evaporated when I saw Joel putting in a screw 30 feet off the ground. The ice was brittle, creaking, cracking and groaning.

When I reached Joel, he said, “You should lead the pillar.” The wind blew spindrift everywhere. My sadness and bitterness were perfect in these elements. I loved it.

The last pitch was the easiest we'd see all day. We rapelled the route, grabbed a sandwich and water, and then turned to Greensteps. Bridalveil had taken us six hours. At that rate, the chances seemed pretty bleak we'd accomplish climbing two icefalls. I told Joel we should only take one rope for Greensteps (to cut down on weight) and not extend any slings. That would speed things up, I said.

Joel did a good job leading us on the first pitch. While I belayed him, ravens drifted in the wind. I thought about Toula. I wore two down coats and ran in place to stay warm. The ghosts came back. As I followed fast up the first pitch, there was Chuck saying, “Nice move,” which meant I was moving slow. I heard Steve say, “Sweeney, forgive everyone.” Andy wouldn't talk about pain and suffering. Tears froze to my face.

To keep us moving, I asked Joel to lead the second pitch, hoping that would shorten the time we spent in one place. It was mistake. Joel hadn't eaten his sandwich. Now he was crawling his way up. Thank God he didn't know what was going on in my mind as I covered his back on the belay.

“You can do it,” Andy said.

“Get moving! Break out your weed!” Steve yelled.

“Sweeney, you always were overrated,” Chuck snipped.

Chuck had the best footwork I ever saw; Steve had the biggest balls; and Andy, he was a Rhodes scholar, author and doctor. They believed in me as much as anyone I've ever known.

I started the third pitch up Greensteps, climbing directly above Joel. I went up 30 feet and moved to the right to get out of his way. I pulled off a giant chunk of ice, yelling as it bounced past me and down Greensteps. I hadn't changed my gloves all day. I lowered my heels. My tools felt good, and I climbed ice as well as I ever had.

“Maybe you'll get it Sweeney,” Chuck said.

“Break out your weed,” Steve said.

Andy didn't say anything, but I felt his respect.

The last pitch was hard and as bad as ice gets, notorious for whooping climbers. I moved fast in the looming twilight, finding a patch of good ice to sink a screw. I hooked my tool around a small alder and stepped into the ragging wind scouring the canyon top. Joel made it up soon after me. It was nearly dark but we'd done it, bagging both Bridalveil and Greensteps in one day.

That was almost a month ago. I'm still sad as hell. Embick had a big memorial service. When Chuck died, I was in Canada. I cried alone. I never got to grieve for Steve. I had to get involved in his children's custody case and deal with all his business. I pushed his body on a cart into the crematorium. I guess these are things you do when your friends die. But I don't know how to deal with suicide, except to support family and friends.

My list is getting shorter. I got a puppy now, an Iditarod sled dog. I named her Aluot, which is Toula spelled backwards. I've got to go now. The Valdez Ice Climbing Festival starts in three days. I have some exercises to do under Andy's list.
Chugach

Trad climber
Vermont
Nov 6, 2012 - 06:47am PT
Bump

http://www.jamessweeneybooks.com/

His Marine Life Solidarity is an excellent 'climbing epic' book; funny, well written, suspenseful, an amazing story and very sweeney-esque.

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 6, 2012 - 10:16am PT
Hey Chugach how is Sweeney doing these days. Have not talked to him in years.

Gads I sure hope he and others do not really have doubts about Garvey's death. Losing Garvey was a shock to all, but folks he was a living son of a gun that one.. One of my best friends was the guy belaying him when it happened. His last words made it clear it was not suicide. Plus many other things..

Anyway Sweeney certainly is a fantastic writer.

Here is another piece of his I love.

http://akwriter.blogspot.com/2005/07/sans-ami.html
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Nov 6, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Bruce, the Mt Johnson epic is the subject of "Alaska Expedition Marine Life Solidarity,available at the website Chugach notes above. It's an amazing book, I recommend it most highly.
tennsand

Trad climber
Fremont,CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 03:52am PT
I roomed with Chuck in the late 80's in Fairbanks (7 mile).... climbed Ice in Valdez with the UAF students making the thanksgiving pilgrimage... watched Embick's slide shows... went climbing with Kathy..... thanks Jim.... though the loss of friends is bitter the joy I shared with them was sweet.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 04:46am PT
That Sweeney article is a good one; I remember it.

If you want a more complete view of who Andy was, this is a great article -
Desolation Row by Tony Hopfinger:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/tmp/embick/apress.htm
Ikat

Social climber
Carson City
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Profound articles and writing.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:19am PT
Alaska scares me.....not the climbing, i've done a lot of that....the place. Summers with long days that have people bursting with energy.....winters, where the only light is your inner one and you better keep that flame burning.

Sweeny always could write.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Sweeney has always been a good story teller, and a witty and funny guy to hang with. He has certainly experienced his share of near death, tragedy and sadness. I climbed with him a little bit back in the 90's, and worked with him in telecommunications. Sweeney is a survivor. Garvey's death was devastating for so many of us and seeing Jim at the funeral, we knew we wouldn't get over it. I didn't know Andy or Chuck, but heard many stories of them from Sweeney and Garvey. So many legends now gone.
Larry
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
Speaking of legends, I have to tell a funny story I remember.

Back in the 90's, Sweeney and Garvey were like the Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid of Alaskan climbing. Sweeney and Garvey, Garvey and Sweeney. You couldn't hear one name without the other in the same sentence. They would rag each other constantly like a married couple and it was hilarious. I am just a gumby climber so I felt privileged to hang with them.

One summer weekend I climbed with Garvey up in Arch Angel Valley in the Talkeetnas. We came down from the backside of the mountain to the old climbers cabin across the creek. It must have been late cause it was getting dark and you could see lights in the cabin and a blue tarp shelter outside the door in the slow drizzling rain. We poked our heads inside to see about a dozen young college climbers with an instructor who was maybe 25 years old.

The instructor started asking us questions and to impress his students he puffed his chest and asked "So, while you guys were up by the Lost Wall, did you see Garvey?"
We just glance at each other, grinned and Garv humbly says "Well, my name's Garvey".
The instructor got uncomfortable and said "No, I mean the Garvey that climbs with Sweeney".
Garv once again humbly says "Well, I climb with Sweeney".
Now with his ruse unraveling he stutters, "No, I mean the Garvey that works at Alaska Mountaineering Hardware".
Garv, gracious as ever says "Oh, I don't work there, must be the other Garvey".

By this time I have retreated outside laughing. The kids now began to enthusiastically hammer Garv with all kinds of questions. The instructor soon meekly retreated outside under the tarp. I felt bad for him and while Garv was conducting an impromptu clinic inside, I made small talk with the hapless instructor. Soon his confidence returned and he finally said to me: "So, while you guys were up by the Lost Wall, did you see Sweeney?"
It was all I could do to hold my tongue, my laugh and NOT say "Well, my name's Sweeney".
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Oct 6, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
Dug up some old photos of Garvey and Sweeney climbing on the 2nd tier off the Seward Highway...No belaying with 65mph traffic over your shoulder.
The Northwest Passage is a climb Garvey and Sweeney put up, bolting on lead and aid. Garv was the master of drilling while hanging on a hook or beak.
This sequence shows Garvey on the FFA with Sweeney belaying. Sweeney went up after Garv. It's a 5.10+, don't remember for sure. Their bantering, as usual, was nonstop and funny as Hell.
I got to go up after, but I leaned on the cottonwood tree at the crux, and they said that downgraded it to 5.8 or so.






climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 6, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
Dude..you f*#king nailed it! That's exactly how it went down so many times in so many places.

Garvey's ability to place solid pro with ridiculous gear in total crap was a wonder to behold..a terror to trust but always bomber..sometimes with disbelief after you thought you were a goner.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
Oct 6, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
Great post, Kelsey.
Highdesertman

Trad climber
jtree ca
Oct 6, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
Sweeny took me up there right after they put it up.He was really excited about that route at the time.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Oct 7, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
Hey Dino,
Yeah, Sweeney loved that area along the highway. He used to hike the trail to McHugh Creek parking lot all the time. It is always the first place to get warm and sunny in the spring. But getting up off of the road is crucial for the solitude.
Northwest Passage is a beautiful little area, kinda hidden.
So here's some shots of another day at NW Passage up off the highway.
I don't remember exactly the climbs here, but I seem to remember most of the climbs here had the crux at the first couple of moves, then the angle eases off to the top.
These are to the right of "Northwest Passage". I am belaying Sweeney in the first sequence.
Garv belays in the next sequence while I hiked up the hill for some nice views. I'm not much of a photographer,...you can barely make out Sweeney... but you can see the great views. Must have been in the fall with the leaves off the trees.

Ok, some shots of Garvey


Ha ha, snuck one in of yours truly working 'Snizzler's Passage'
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 8, 2015 - 04:27am PT
Funny seeing a thread about Sweeney here.....my oh my but didn't he love to trash anyone and everyone from Cali.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Oct 8, 2015 - 07:10am PT
Being from Cali, I got my share of ribbing from Sweeney.
Ironically, I remember him telling me that he was originally from Chico, Cal...ha, ha.
But snow and ice were Sweeney's forte. I never did any skiing with him, but he knew my cousin from working on the Ketchum Ski Patrol.

I know he did some ski patrol work for the World Extreme Ski competition out of Valdez for awhile and even went down in an avalanche once. I think he broke a leg bone, sold the story to the National Enquirer for a few hundred dollars, but had to spice it up for the readership, ha, ha.
I was out somewhere with Garvey, and Lynn Garvey called and she read the National Enquirer story to us over the phone. Lynn could barely speak the words as we were all laughing our asses off. Sweeney told the more realistic version later in person.

Edit: On another ironic note, I remember a tale I heard second or third hand about Sweeney trying to talk someone into either rock or ice climbing down in the Homer area. As I remember the tale, his sales pitch was calling Homer "The Berkley of Alaska", ha, ha.

But I can't speak for Sweeney. Haven't seen him in years. Nobody can spin a tail like that old curmudgeon. Maybe he lurks on here and sneaks posts in.
I'm just posting old photos here after getting prodded by Prezwoodz to dig up some old history, and now I have the momentum going.
Sweendog9

Sport climber
Alaska
Nov 21, 2017 - 09:41pm PT
This was a joy to find. Funny sh#t.
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