Looking for Beta for Fresno Dome

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tseaney

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 28, 2010 - 02:02am PT
I'm planning on doing a two day trip to Fresno Dome during the summer and I'm just looking for some good beta for the area. Any help would be appreciated.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 28, 2010 - 02:38am PT
The Spencer guide is outdated, but still useful, particularly for things like approaches, etc. Tim Schiller and I probably did the first roped climb there in 1970, but we approached from the campground and found about all the brush possible, and ended up (unknowingly) on Hawk Dome.

The rock reminded me then of Middle Cathedral Rock, although now that I've spent many decades there, it reminds me even more of the Balls and similar areas.

One word of warning: the Dome can actually be quite warm in summer. If so, consider the Balls. They're higher and cooler, and you can take advantage of the Forest Service's dispersed camping policy, thereby avoiding dealing with campground hosts, fees, etc.

Have fun. It's a beautiful area.

John
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Apr 28, 2010 - 02:52am PT
Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs by Mark & Shirley Spencer is available again (Amazon), if you don't have it. Gives a good foundation for the older routes.

Some new stuff noted on summitpost.org and elsewhere on the interweb. I think Tom Slater's new NorCal guide has some info (have yet to see it), and a mini guide (probably hard to get in your area) by Mike A. has limited and spotty info. A newish topo of the main S. face has been known to make appearances on this forum if you poke around - likely in the looong "southern yosemite" thread, methinks.

If you want a one stop shop for good comprehensive beta for all of the current routes, it does not exist. But there is plenty there to keep you very busy.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Apr 28, 2010 - 02:58am PT
There is also a ginormous thread about Southern Yosemite climbing on these here forums that should be a wealth of information.
tseaney

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2010 - 11:05am PT
Thanks alot for all the help
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 28, 2010 - 11:24am PT
It's actually called Wamello Dome.

Here's a TR with some beta, I'm going back later this year...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/885849/Wamello-Dome-TR

Cheers!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 28, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
That's a great thread Blue.
Very informative!
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Apr 28, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
1) Get Spencers book - use it but don't trust it. Remember many new routes have been put up since the reprint of the late 80's/early 90's book.

2) Use google - there lot's of info to be had if you just search the web.

3) Plan on burning a day figuring out how to get there, where to camp, the right approach, finding the route etc. You'll be much better served to take 1 day to do that stuff and climb a couple of 1 pitch lines, then on your next day and future trips blast the long stuff.

4) Clean up your trash and the crap that others leave up there.

5) Don't add bolts or you will incur the wrath of locals with 125+lbs dogs

6) Have fun!!!!!
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
7) Watch out for tourons trundling rocks down from the top while you climb. Seriously.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 28, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
One other piece of advice, since you're coming from the Big Raisin. Take Sky Ranch Road and the approach shown in the Spencer guide to get there. Tim and I took a combination of dirt and almost imaginary roads from Fish Camp on our first trip there. It was not a bright idea in my 1962 Ford Fairlane with its "versatile two-speed automatic transmission" and four-wheel drum brakes. The correct approach uses relatively good roads, and approaching from the top takes much less time than the thrash we went through the first time.

John
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Apr 28, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
One more cautionary note on the vehicle approach... the road leads to the backside of the top, yo? It can be dry as sand down low, but as you round the bend to do that last uphill slog to the dome?

Seasonal snowbanks persist many years well into June. You may think you can drive through them and maybe you can. Or maybe you can beg a tow from some passing 4wder.

I've pulled two mokes out of those snow banks, over the years.

Hey John, first time I went to Fresno Dome we approached from below too! Of course we 'discovered' the road at the top, when we got there LOL!

DMT
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Apr 28, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
As Nate said, watch out for rocks being thrown by idiots.

My first time there my wife and I were almost nailed by several rocks coming down from above. We had to take cover. The more we yelled up for them to stop the more the rocks came down. I hoofed it up the steep aproach trail to late to probably get my ass kicked by rednecks. We left and did not go back for at least four years.
just_one

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Apr 30, 2010 - 02:25am PT
Does anyone have any idea if it would be possible to get to the dome in the next couple of weeks? I'm thinking probably too much snow still, but I've never been. Have a 4WD, but won't help much in deep snow obviously. Any info appreciated!

Failing that, any other ideas for less frequented areas this time of year? Turning 30 in 2 weeks and want to go hang in the wilds with some friends.
Ben Emery

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 30, 2010 - 07:58am PT
Hi Just_One.

It may still be a few weeks too early to get in depending on whether there's been much snow late in the season (I've moved away so haven't been keeping an eye on the weather)? Mid-May was the earliest I ever went up, and I think that was a dry year.

That said, the bottom approach (take a trail that leaves from a hairpin in the road below the dome and hike uphill) will probably be snow free well before the top road/parking lot/approach; feel free to email me for more detailed notes.

Great climbing there, enjoy yourself. I third the "watch for tourons trundling rocks" comment though, myself and a buddy came pretty close to being terminally inconvenienced by them...
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Apr 30, 2010 - 10:18am PT
Prolly not just tourons to watch for. The one day I spent there last year I saw a camp up near the top of the dome. The people had obviously been there for well over a week and it was a shithole. GARBAGE EVERYWHERE. It had that sketchy tweeker look and feel.

kev
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Apr 30, 2010 - 10:23am PT
I think you have no chance at all of driving to the top of the dome, right now. You might get to within a mile or two, however....

The last uphill stretch is a tree shaded north facing aspect... I'm tellin ya, it holds snow late.

can always walk in from below!

Cheers
DMT
just_one

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Apr 30, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
Thanks folks, might have to give it a shot. Any recommendations on places to camp nearby? Feel free to tell me to stop being lazy and do some research :)
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 30, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
You can camp at the trailhead to the top of the Dome. Just past this spot is another obvious area, right off the dirt road. You can also dirtbag at the sub-dome between the trailhead and the dome itself. Trust me, once you find the trailhead, it'll be obvious where to camp.

It goes without saying, but keep it clean.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Apr 30, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
Some select stuff in the "California Road Trip A climber's Guide Northern California". Most of the stuff on the long south face is easy, 5.8-5.9, so we only detailed the harder sport cliffs. Directions, topos, etc. $39.95 for ST shoppers. email me. Has Willow Creek wall in there as well, and Shuteye (THAT's where ya want to go!).
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