Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
Didn't Chuck take a huge whipper on Aurora? I seem to remember something about being totally wasted and going to get onto the next piece and he missed getting his foot in his aider and fell ripping tons of gear.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
BITD
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
|
bringmedeath
I will call Troy Johnson, he climbed that route in 1985 with Clance, hope to have somthing fun to post back to your question.
|
|
Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
|
|
Drinkin' & Drillin!!
It's a shame Rich isn;t around anymore to tell his Clancy stories.
Doglips!!
|
|
joebuzz
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA.
|
|
Chuck was a friend of mine as well and used to stay at my place regularly in the 90's in Tahoe City before we would head to The Leap for a few days.
One thing that always impressed me was Chuck was pretty beat physically and not getting around very easily at a point but still wanted to climb. We were hiking up to Corrigation Corner and I seriously thought he might not even make it to the base of the climb? None the less, we did make it and as I was thinking we might even bail from somewhere low... Once Chuck was tied in, he just flowed effortlessly like he was a 5.13 climber fourth classing 5.7 terrain. I've lost his contact info but I do miss that guy. I heard he may be around San Francisco somewhere, where I also live now if anyone can hook us up again.
Hey does anyone here know a guy named Fidencio Salazar(nickname: JR)? He's the guy that introduced me to Chuck and was also a Valley staple back in the day. I'd really dig getting back in touch with him too.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Didn't he have an incident in that "Favorite spot" last spring? Is he okay from that?
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Saw chuck at the Leap Oct 1. Drank a beer with him in the rain in the lot. He's doing ok, still in SF.
|
|
nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
|
|
Chuck made it to one of the SushiFests. I forgot which one but I do recall he was a blast to have there....
|
|
chez
Social climber
chicago ill
|
|
fogerty,
Does Troy remember anything nowadays? Especially old stuff. Would love to get in touch with him.
I remember the tron brother days.
|
|
chez
Social climber
chicago ill
|
|
I remember Lips too. When he lived under the clinic. The last time i saw him he wanted me to take photos of him climbing for his mom, i never got the chance.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
|
|
Pretty firmly Pro-Clance.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
WOW nice to see clancy on the front page..
I talked to troy about a month ago, doing good and still crackin jokes!
In regards to the 3rd ascent of Aurora, Clance told Peter he drilled hooks on his route, they seem to have settled it.
I have gotton tons of mileage with Chuck, I consider him one of my best friends as I have said before. Dude is classic.
Looking forward to hanging with him in Josh.
Chez PM me and I can get you in touch with Troy.
Mucci
|
|
seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 02:35am PT
|
Bump
|
|
Merilyn Scott,Clance
climber
Phoenix,AZ
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 11:25am PT
|
how is Clancy? an old friend wants to know, 480 840 6760
|
|
Fogarty
climber
BITD
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 12:52am PT
|
A Chuck BUMP, he is now spending time on the east side enjoying life.
|
|
JohnRoe
Trad climber
State College, PA
|
|
ran into him in J Tree a couple of months ago, good to talk. nice to see the thread.
|
|
climbrunride
Ice climber
Purgatory, CO
|
|
Wow, just found this thread. I have lots of Crazy Chuck pics and stories. I'll post up more later, but here he is at the J-Tree SushiFest a few years ago:
|
|
Aerili
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Chuck on his first day out this season, 2011. He kept telling me he's going to give it up and surf full time instead.
|
|
climbrunride
Ice climber
Sailing Hawks Boulders, CO
|
|
And a Chuck story:
We were up at Calavares Dome for a few days and partied pretty hard one night. Chuck was, of course, very hung over the next morning. Still, he somehow made it up to the base of Old Smokey (5.9?, 5p?). I really thought he was either going to die on the way, or bail, because he looked, and sounded, so sick. But he soldiered on and made it.
The first pitch was wet through its crux, and I really did not want to fall, pull out my crappy nut and land on the broken ankle breakers below me. Chuck assured me that he'd been hurt much worse than I might get, many times. Without a good excuse then, I just went ahead and climbed through the slippery slime. It was really not too bad once it was over.
As we worked our way up the climb, I was having more and more fun, but Chuck was looking worse and worse, which culminated on the final pitch. He was keeping a fine pace, but I always thought he would have to retreat. At the top, I was on a small ledge and could not see him following. But I heard him. Have you ever heard a cat working up a hairball? That's what Chuck sounded like. He would make a couple moves, then heave for a minute, then climb some more. The closer he got, the worse it got. Until he was only about 20 feet down and I heard him letting loose the poison from his belly. And all I could do was to yell down at him, "DON'T PUKE ON MY NEW ROPE!"
He finally finished puking and climbed up to me. He confidently blamed his illness on the communists, cursed them, congratulated me on a good lead and was ready to move on with the day.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
|
Chuck is an awesome guy.
unique as hell.
wholesome.
stout courage as evidenced by his el cap travels,
super modest.
giving: he'd give his last beer to you,
and then run to town and buy everyone more.
funny and good for some show stopping stories.
a hell of a guy,
hey chuck i picked up this bitchen chick hitch hiking on
395, we rode about 3 hours together. your name
came up and i was telling her about our time
in j-tree. she was, uh, interested
so she gave me her p.o. box, she lives
in a little town within biking distance of
lone pine. i'll forward it on to you,
clance. whether you read this or not.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!