Chuck Clance appreciation Thread

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wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Apr 20, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
He mentioned something about falling on/grabbing a pillar on the way down. If I remember, he fractured a couple of ribs. He said that it seemed like a better option than decking on a ledge further below. I think he continued and finished the wall.

Wasn't there a story about a ghostbusters ascent of the trip?

The stories didn't sound like spray. Just a different generation of climbers.

bump for clancy
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
Climbing mag July 2007 Reardon is on the cover,

I cant find my issue to post, Clance Pacemaker artical? can some one find it and post it?

MASTERS OF DISASTER
Party like its 1983 on a water-blasted trip up the El Capitan horrorshow Pacemaker a 13-day saga that left a team of two climbers so malnourished their teeth loosened in the sockets.
By Chuck Clance Illustration by Keith Svihovec




Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
I'm very disappointed with this whole taco stand!

The lack of attention to this thread is killing me!

HOW MANY OF YOU YOUNG AND OLD SPRAYERS KNOW CHUCK AND JUST MOVE ON ALL THE NON CLIMBING TOPICS AND DON'T STEP UP AND TELL A GOOD OR UGLY STORY OF A
Old FRIEND OF OURS...
John_Box

Ice climber
Bellingham
Apr 20, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
If I had a scanner I would post that story up. Its a great one.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:13am PT
This is pretty tame stuff compared to the stories I have heard about Clance. It seems the insiders are not willing to share. ;^)

lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:32am PT
Here It is in a nutshell:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=427292&msg=427292#msg427292

I've know Chuck for over 30 years. I could write a book on the guy, he's a force of nature. 'Nuff said

Cheers

lars
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:39am PT
Yeah Mike, I just saw this thread and also wanted to chime in! Chuck was always way cool to me, and I always thought fondly of him! I haven't had the chance to see him in many, many, moons however and wondered that when you see him next, ask him if he remembers Michael Paul from rescue and such back in the '80's...Cheers!! Tusi...
Loomis

climber
*_*
Apr 21, 2010 - 12:42am PT
Watusi, Chuck and I spoke of you recently, of course he speaks well of you.
Enjoy, Scott
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Apr 21, 2010 - 01:02am PT
cheers to clancey!

one of the first characters I met at the leap. always good to see him and I know that he will be there soon!
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Apr 21, 2010 - 02:16am PT
What unusual item Did Clance bring a on scullqueen? I stared at his hual bags for weeks.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 21, 2010 - 04:59am PT
Whack- that fall was on ZM, 2 broken ribs (whillans harness), he said it was long enough he had time to "take it all in". The fall ruined the lead rope as it ran over a sharp edge. He said they were worried about being down to one lead line, and running out of copperheads, I think they brought 80+.

I am pretty sure the doll on SQ was Jeff Altenberg's, funny stuff though.

Here's one I wrote over on Mud n Crud a while back, Classic Clance!

Sometime in winter:

Left SF at around 9:00 pm on a sunday night, headed for the East side campground (before it was consumed by the Man). En route, my partner and I purchased the appropriate supplies and motored on through until we hit the park entrance. Heavy cloud cover and chilly temps greeted us as we made our way into the ominous hills finally reaching our destination, campsite #12.

A good fire was raised and we feasted on BBQ pork ribs and a healthy amount of Sierra Nevada. Throughout the evening we began to hear noises. Unholy noises that left one feeling as though the hills had plans for your comfy bivy on the ground.

I make it into the bag and then slide into the bivy sack, zip up and pass into a half sleep turning at every noise. Meanwhile, my partner who by this point was tending to the fire and drinking the cold away decided to have a party all to himself.

I feel a knock at the feet, pop the hood off the bivy sack and reached for the headlamp. Illumination reveals a horror I wish the majority of people on earth never experience. RACOONS! A full on platoon charging my bivy and running all over the camp like soldiers on stimulants. The partner is passed out next to the fire on a proper military cot sound asleep and snoring. I begin to scream like a child, panning the light in a frantic mode immediately astounded at my position. One beast had a block of Endo chalk between its maws and was chowing down like a rabid animal.

The screaming woke the partner up. As I made a serious effort to remove myself from my down straightjacket, one of the masked villians was charging at me with the fire smoldering behind it's shadow. I made a move, rolled into the fetal position, and awaited the worst.

They vanish as quick as they came. I never made it out of the sack during the attack. I felt relieved and began to inquire as to the mission of the bandits. My light makes it very clear the folly of our ways.

The partner had Fig newtons, oreo's, and Doritos all within immediate reach. He had no respone as to how the Newtons made it into, onto and inside my sleeping bag, and strewn around the camp. He had a full on Fig newton party, and in the process turned me into the bait.

I never hear the end of that one!






neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 21, 2010 - 05:59am PT
hey there chuck, say, i may not know you, but one thing about "taco" news here, folks appreciate folks for very good, loyal and special reasons, and--climbing may be one of the highest honorable repspects paid, but FRIENDSHIP, is the tie, at the finish line, as well...

cheers to you, and your many friendships and honor to your climbs...

god bless... it is always fun to learn of more folks, here...


:)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 21, 2010 - 06:01am PT
hey there say, all.... oh my... and a bump,
for fogarty, too!

:)
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
Chucks tribute to our late friend Virgina Parker.

El Cap, Virgina 5.9 A3+ FA: CHUCK CLANCE AND STEVE BOSQUE 7/92

Any comments on this 7 pitch variation to the trip.

I spoke with Chuck last night and read some of your post I think it maid his night.



Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 22, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Mike, I remember Virginia well and hadn't known of her passing...God Bless and RIP Virginia, she was very cool...MP.
PS: Berg Heil Chuck!! You were and will always be the man!!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2010 - 12:50am PT
OT. VIRGINIA Parker friends Post up. on here life and the good!



People of that day tell us a story..

Maybe were not ready for this?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 23, 2010 - 01:27am PT
Wonder

climber
WA
Apr 23, 2010 - 02:15am PT
DUDE !!!


Tell him disco roy said do or die.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
May 4, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
Wonder, Got any johnny Ekk, now that guy could move!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
I posted early on this and said I would copy Clance artical on the 2nd ascent of Pacemaker.Climbing NO.260 SEPTEMBER 2007 I hope you enjoy this epic TALE.


TOUGH TIMES NEVER LAST BUT TOUGH CLIMBERS DO!

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