Tommy Caldwell Free Climbs The Nose and Freerider-in-a-day


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Nov 1, 2005 - 11:16am PT
Incredible and inspiring. Thanks for the report, Chris. A job well done!

It's quite a statement that a climber can ropegun for the likes of Chris, Hans, Beth, et cetera. Totally badass. TC is at the top of his game...or is he yet?

Go, Tommy!
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Nov 1, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
Most excellent report, Chris.

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Nov 1, 2005 - 12:50pm PT
I'm going to be attempting a repeat of this awesome feat ( ;-) in about a million years). I'm just wondering if someone can post a break down of the free grades for each of the pitches on the two routes.
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Nov 1, 2005 - 01:01pm PT
Man, Tommy is on fire.

NOT Fresno
Nov 1, 2005 - 01:27pm PT
Well fuсk me good.

What about three free in a day? Who wants it?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Nov 1, 2005 - 01:59pm PT
Would the East Buttress Of El Cap count?

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 1, 2005 - 02:31pm PT
freaking amazing, thanks for the report Chris.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 1, 2005 - 03:06pm PT
Amazing achievement. The sky really is the limit ... Must be Beth's turn to do the Nose in a day now!

Nov 1, 2005 - 04:24pm PT
Michael Jordan is the Tommy Caldwell of Basketball....Pele is the Tommy of Soccer....that is probably the one of the single greatest athletic achievements in history...whats next?

Trad climber
Mt. Shasta, CA
Nov 1, 2005 - 06:11pm PT
Ay Caramba! Tommy esta en fuego!

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Nov 1, 2005 - 06:38pm PT
Amazing achievement. Guy is a freak.

But sweet Jesus Juan, get a grip. I think Lindbergh flying the Atlantic is a hell of a lot bigger than some dude free climbing some pre-established wall routes.

Get some perspective. It's the greatest FREE climbing feat ever. But NOT the greatest climbing feat ever. As soon as Tommy wants to start scoping wall routes and risking his life putting up some A5 wall routes on FA, then I'll put him in the Michael Jordan "best climber ever" file. He's the best FREE climber. But climbing has been around a hell of a lot longer than Tommy, there's plenty of great feats that had the internet been around, it would have got a lot more play. It's the immediacy of his achievement and all of us immediately knowing about it and fawning over it that helps add to it. on now for every monkey now to free something on El Cap. You thought the fixed lines were bad now.
Bryce Breslin

Oakland, California
Nov 1, 2005 - 07:44pm PT

I'd be really curious to know what he took along for a rack.

Last weekend my partner and I racked tons to climb 9 pitches, Serenity to Sons - I'll bet we took more weight in gear for a moderate 9 than this man did for +/- 60 pitches?? Grim...

I'd also wager that I probably brought more cams up Lunatic Fringe - one pitch - than Caldwell did for this feat.

I'm still trying to grasp this: leading 60 pitches in a day. Does anyone know how many of those are 5.11 or above? 5.12 or above?

My hat is off, and I'm stupefied.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2005 - 07:54pm PT
The rack:

1 each really small cams
2 each .75"- 2.5" (small blue camalot to gold gold camalot)
1 # 3 (the blue camalot)
1 # 4 (the gray camalot)
1 # 6 (the really big green camalot)

4 stoppers (but i dont think he placed a single one)

8 draws

6 long slings

1 60m 10mm rope

Nov 1, 2005 - 07:55pm PT
That sounds about right. (rack above)

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Nov 1, 2005 - 08:04pm PT
i still am having trouble fathoming this...simply amazing.

whats really amazing is that Tommy, in real terms, is still just a kid!

imagine what he might do in the decades to come!
Bryce Breslin

Oakland, California
Nov 1, 2005 - 09:00pm PT

Outrageous!! I did take more up Lunatic Fringe. What can you mean, Werner, sounds right?!! I love it - I absolutely love it. No sarcasm, no cynicism: I'm just astounded and in awe. And inspired to lighten my racking - christ.

Thanks for the info - crystalizes the magnitude of Caldwell's climbing that day.

Four nuts!
Mick Ryan

Trad climber
Saratoga Springs, NY
Nov 1, 2005 - 09:46pm PT
Thanks for the report Chris.

We got it up on pronto.

Limey Bastard

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Nov 1, 2005 - 10:47pm PT
Thanks for the story.

The guy is a real soul climber.

Davis, CA
Nov 1, 2005 - 11:45pm PT
Holy freaking crap! Talk about setting the bar.

You know what is so cool about this (aside from the obvious)? Tommy (and beth for that matter) is quite possibly the most humble climber I know. Not only that, but he's the last guy to criticize anothers person's style.

Hats off dude, well done.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Nov 2, 2005 - 10:18am PT
"Not only that, but he's the last guy to criticize anothers person's style.

Funny how that works, isn't it?

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