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Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 18, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
I'm getting popcorn fer this.

A double bill with Old Guys battlin' out who changed the damn name to Sentry Box and Slightly Younger Guys battlin' over lieback land.

Sounds like cartoon fodder.


Big Grin.


Oh, and the Cirkids artical in the Tyee was , well, a little lame. But yes, I'm on that like a fat kid on a cupcake.
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 18, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
I think Bruce Kay may have been trying on some sarcastic humour ....

Perrys Lieback has already been disscussed, resolved and put to bed:
Atrocity defined - June 5/2003
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/20466/Atrocity-defined

Perrys Lieback  Grandwall - Tim MCallister
Perrys Lieback Grandwall - Tim MCallister
Credit: bmacd
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 18, 2010 - 06:02pm PT
haha! gotcha!

like i said its cool by me. I think ethic by consensus in a well populated area is the way to go and old rigid, fossilized fundamentalist notions need to be scrutinized with suspicion. the resource is one of community and there is only a little room for individual imposition of values, especially if they deny access to the many. The grand wall and polaris are perfect places for a few judicous bolts - judicous being the operative word. Consensus ought to have something to do with removing bolts as well.

hell it sounds like that slab alley bolt has been much apreciated over the years. but how about those newer routes crowding grim reaper? someone tell the story of the Grim reaper. i never did have the guts for that one and now its too late (not that i have any guts now mind you)
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 18, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Grim Reaper was an incomplete line. It went left instead of continuing straight up. It had a fixed copper head as the last piece of pro. Aside from swapping the copper head for a bolt we didn't change Grim Reaper to establish Teetering. Are you are talking about something other than Teetering Bruce ?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 18, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
no not teetering.... thats an excellent addition. was that you? with carl austrom?

there's some other ones to the left, barley jobs i think . anyway it seems like there's the odd historical piece that should get some respect. but having said that, in squamish if the thing dosn't get traffic it tends to go back to nature. which in a way is perfect as whatever is not of value gets recycled. the circle of life. so grim reaper was probably destined to extinction anyway.

apparently even dream on needed rescubbing recently.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 18, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
well you learn something new every day. good route.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 18, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
Hamie:
Okay Nails, you're in the cross-hairs today. Better duck now. A few days ago, Tami mentioned 'Sentry Box'. This climb is listed as 'Artificial Land' FA Baldwin/Cooper 6.4 [that's A2 for the children] in Baldwin's hand-written guide. I just looked at it again. However it is listed as 'Sentry Box' in your green guide, the first one published. So how/who/why/when was the name changed? This has puzzled/bugged me for years. Decades! Anders, perhaps the truth will finally out?

That's a really good question and I don't know the answer for certain. In Baldwin's final, typed guidebook (the one ready for publication), it's called Artificial Land. Cooper's account of the route says "The route we ascended climbs 50 feet to a cut in a large overhang (the sentry box), ....". Baldwin also used the term "sentry box."

I did not rename routes. I named a couple (and badgered people into naming them) but I didn't rename anything that previously had a name. Seeing as I had Baldwin's typescript, I was aware of the Artificial Land name. My guess is that, after Jim's death, Cooper though that "Artificial Land" was stupid or boring and decided that "Sentry Box" would be better (I agree). He might have told Tony Cousins who told me. I don't recall ever talking to Ed about it; I'm going to email him in a couple of minutes.

I went through my pathetically sparse surviving notes from the 1967 green guide. They don't help, but I did find an interesting note I'd written on Slab Alley. (That route keeps coming up, doesn't it?). "The ascent has taken as little as 15 minutes; most parties will require upwards of 2 hours." That seems fast even for today; I wonder who did it in pre-1968 days?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 18, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
its funny how greg dosn't want to talk about bute and JC - anybody else notice?
Maybe there's some dark secret best left under a rock

ok greg you're off the hook! the story is in an old CAJ anyway. the public story anyway.
gf

climber
Apr 19, 2010 - 12:02am PT
Bruce,
I just want to save that one for a full on JC appreciation thread-besides you hit the nail on the head re it being more or less in the public domain of the ACC journal. We need to enlist John Baldwin and a few others first to do justice for an appreciation thread for John.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 19, 2010 - 12:06am PT
Good luck gettin' Baldwin to post on this forum :-D I tried workin' Don S at his wife's big six-oh a coupl'a weeks ago & he gave me that sorta-blank stare ( you who know Don know the look :-D )

Maybe we could slag John's GUIDEBOOK to get him to sit up and take notice.

After the posts about KMclane I wonder if he lurks here.

Hee hee hee.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 19, 2010 - 12:20am PT
You know there's a biography of JC in the works...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 19, 2010 - 01:17am PT
Bob McGowan (sp?) from Oregon was the first to work on what became Teetering on the Brink of Madness, in 1977 or 1978. Somewhere I have a letter from him about it. I don't know how far he got, perhaps above the end of the crack. He was going to call it A Slice of Life.

Sighting today at the Starbucks in Squamish: Don Serl and his daughter Ashley, who'd ridden up from Vancouver on Don's motorcycle. (He's very keen on them.) That coffee shop is a rendezvous for hordes of motorcyclists, but probably not motorcycle gangs. The sociology is fascinating.

Carl was (is?) a darn fine slab and face climber, and lives in North Carolina.

You might be quite surprised who lurks here.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 19, 2010 - 09:30am PT
lurkers should pipe up every now and then

we need the diversity
sac

Trad climber
spuzzum
Apr 19, 2010 - 10:59am PT




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qtj7QFDjH1A&feature=related

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:34am PT
^^^ ???
sac

Trad climber
spuzzum
Apr 19, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
one lurker, pipin' in...

JC bump

enjoying this climber talk.

A.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 19, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Lisa Baile is the one writing the bio of JC. I know she has a publisher but I forget who they are.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 19, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
There is now (as of last week) an official Mount John Clarke. It was formerly and informally named "Sun Peak," and it's near the head of Jervis Inlet. John took many young people into that area; it was an important place to him. I'm very pleased.

Anyways, after much hard work by a number of people over 3 years, we now have a fitting commemorative peak for him. See http://archive.ilmb.gov.bc.ca/bcgn-bin/bcg10?name=60861

Harbour Publishing will be doing Lisa's biography of John.
gf

climber
Apr 19, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
Well done Glenn, Liz and John!
Lets wait for the book publishing to launch a tribute thread?
GF
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 19, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
^^^ I second that motion. I wonder if Lisa lurks on this forum ? :-)
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