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Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 11, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
skiing is grim
skiing is grim
Credit: Bruce Kay
BmacD

I don't know about your zone but further west just got demolished by out flows
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 11, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
Bruce Kay you are living the life .... looks good out there
Zenith Mountain - Tantalus Range BC - April 10/2010
Zenith Mountain - Tantalus Range BC - April 10/2010
Credit: bmacd

Click image for higher resolution
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 11, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
Tami:
C'mon Anders , cough up the REAL REASON the BCMC formed as the Leader of Her Majesty's Loyal Opposition to the Alpine Club of Canada - formed in 1906.

Wasn't it a hissy fit about a CABIN on Grouse Mtn? Oh, did I use the "C" word in the COAST RANGE ?!? We Don't Like Cabins ; Those Are For The Rockies ( Where Climbers Are Soft )

AFAIK, the BCMC formed before the Vancouver Section of the ACC, perhaps a couple of years before. Cabins were a big part of the BCMC, right from the beginning. There were various cabins on Grouse from pre-1900, even. Certainly the early days of the BCMC revolved around the cabin, weekends at the cabin, and trips from the north shore to the local hills. It was hard to get anywhere else: after the old roads were abandoned, even the Lions were a 3-day trip up the Capilano, unless you had a boat. Whistler area? Forget it. Chilliwack valley? Week's expedition.

The hissy fit (and that's what it was)came about in late 1926. At two General Meetings of the BCMC there were motions debated / passed / defeated regarding censure of one of the members of the executive, almost certainly Tom Fyles, who held the position of "Director", regarding his somewhat dictatorail leaderhship of club trips. The upshot was that "The Director immediately rose and resigned his membership in the Club, and the following members of the Executive then followed his example: J.H Speer, W.G. Wheatley, R.E. Knight, N.M. Carter, B.C. Cayley, and W.E. Martin."

The loss of Tom Fyles and Neal Carter was a great blow to the club, because they (together with the Mundays) were among the club's strongest, most active climbers. It was this event that gave great impetus to the local section of the ACC. Don and Phy Munday remained members of both clubs, and eventually in the 1930s let their memberships in the BCMC lapse.

This detailed reasons for the split were eventually forgotten, and no record of them exists in the BCMC minutes for the day,which are not to be found in the club archives. The two clubs continued to hold some joint trips, and many members belonged to both clubs.

When I joined the BCMC in 1959, I found it very welcoming to teenagers. I inquired whether the Alpine Club took young teenagers on trips; never did hear back from them, and my friends in the BCMC discouraged me from joining the ACC, even though my uncle was a member of the ACC. So I fell into the company of Dick Culbert, Tim Auger, Arnold Shives, Martin & Esther Kafer (the Kafers were in both clubs), Dick Chambers, Paul Binkert, Roy Mason, and the like. So today, some people are in the BCMC, some in the ACC, and some in both. Which one has had, collectively, the stronger group of active climbers has swung back and forth over the years - currently it's probably the ACC.

Glenn Woodsworth
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 11, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
Tami wrote:
Hey Anders, havin' sniffed thru the thing I find it to be most excellent but oddly incomplete. FABULOUS to see the artwork of Shives !!

I totally agree; I like his work a great deal (but I'm pretty biased).

[quoteIt's more like RANDOM history of BC mountaineering. I think they missed out big stories like Slesse ( the first ascent, FWA, the airplane crash, NE Buttress, et'c ) to name one.

For sure. I hope they continue to build on it and deal with the last 30 years. Baldwin? Clarke? Kasian? Serl? Fairley? Croft? Foweraker? to name just a random few. The site's got great potential, but it's clear the focus will always be on the coast, which is fine with me. Another group will have to do the Interior Ranges and (shudder) the Rockies.

- Glenn (a Coast Mountains brat - always was, always will be)


bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 11, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
So Foweraker is history ? Such promise now gone to waste ...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 11, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
Naw, Foweraker, Serl, Baldwin aren't history yet. Are they? I guess Fairley isn't history, either, but he seems to be history in the Coast Mountains. (That's what living in Golden does to you....)

When does one become a museum-piece?
mazamarick

Trad climber
WA
Apr 11, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
That must make Sinclair and Smaill history, right?
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 11, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
Relic hominids all of them, science should be done on their DNA.

More evidence that multiple classes of ancient branches of the hominid tree are still walking amongst us. Rarely observed and often misidentified yet the legends persist.

Homo Aplinus, more study and documentation of their existence is needed to pay tribute to the species.
Chief

climber
Apr 11, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
Relic Hominid?


Thanks Bruce, that explains everything. At last, I've found my tribe.
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 11, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
Funny how these 'northern neighbors' threads don't seem to turn
into pissing matches even when someone gets accused of belonging
to a dead-end branch on the 'hominid' tree. Yous guys really are
different! :-D
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 11, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
Yer a museum piece ........when ya post as "tricouni" :-D Hahahaha........who here actually KNOWS what tricounies are, eh ? ( Okay, on THIS forum there are LOTS of folks who wore boots w/ tricounis ) hahahaha again.

Glenn A ZILLION thanks for the post about the cabin & the history. Frankly I think that personal stuff is more important then the dates and ascents because it highlights the personalities and gut-reasons for the history to have happened.

One very wonderful thing about this type of forum is that it provides a platform for a people's history - such that it is, at times, unfettered, unfiltered, totally adulterated opinions. But that too is the history & it's the authors of the history books who tend to get to decide. That, and their publishers.

I'm always annoyed by history books that arbitrarily cut off at some date in the past. Living history can be written down........and, if some of it becomes more or less relevant in the future then so be it. But to just say that because the person is still alive ergo they aren't yet a museum piece is silly.

The Croft/Foodeater/SurlyDon traverse of the Wadd & range in '85 was spectacular history & had been predicated on the fast & light ascents those guys ( croft in particular ) had been doing in the Bugs & lower Coast Range in previous years.

By the same token the huge traverses that Clarke/Baldwin were doing in those years ( or later ? ) were also being challenged by Kobus B & Emily , and the kids who did the Fraser River to Alaska trip on skis ( I am SO SORRY but I have forgotten who this was - Vance Culbert, et'c ? Guy Edwards? The Rowat sisters were in on some of that. ) THAT is BIG history.

I"m sure not sayin' I know more then what these folks know but it would be great to see a more complete 'history'. A quick perusal of Chic Scott's Pushing The Limits would be a killer place to start.



Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 11, 2010 - 10:27pm PT
Relic yes, but Hominid? are you guys sure?
aren't at least a few sporting dorsal fins and tails?

BC sub species anyway...the climate explains it.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 11, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
Some coastal types balance business acumen with great climbing skills.

Credit: Jim Brennan
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 11, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
^^^^ Are those his LEGS or is he bi-penised and WALKING on them ?








The mind boggles.










bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 11, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
CougarLife.com = 1000 Tami's

Anders, signup now ....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 12, 2010 - 12:23am PT
ya know that guy looks just a bit like mike down
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 12, 2010 - 12:43am PT
He's Hominid Representicus. A Renaissance dude around these parts.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 12, 2010 - 12:57am PT
That picture looks kinda like Bricks.

I haven't visited the virtual museum, but any attempt at telling the story of BC mountaineering by looking through the lens of club membership seems kind of silly.

BCMC? ACC? Sure, there was plenty of climbing done on club trips, but there was, and is, just as much done by climbers. Not club members, just climbers.

And about the cabin thing, Tami's probably just pissed because Rat Hall doesn't feature prominently in museum.

D
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 12, 2010 - 01:12am PT
David, the virtual museum 'exhibit' primarily relates to the period from the late 19th century, through the 1960s and 1970s. So is somewhat oriented toward what the BCMC and ACC and their members were doing, given that they had a finger in most of what was being done during that period. Yes, there's more to the story than that, e.g. in the 1960s the energy of the baby boomers in the VOC, and the appearance of independent climbers. (Jim Baldwin may have been one of the first.) But what's there is an interesting initiative, even if a bit too club-oriented, and can be added to.

Glad to see there's some interest in this subject - I hoped there would be. It's probably impossible to satisfy anyone let alone everyone with any museum display, let alone a new-fangled virtual display, but it illustrates the sort of thing that's possible. You can't fit everything in, of course, and historiography eventually rears its head.

Just back from a full day working on a project at Squamish. Cleaning an old route on the Apron, called Slab Alley. The first route on our Apron, done in 1961 by Jim Baldwin and Tony Cousins. The current phase is to physically clean up the route, restore the existing/accepted bolts (ten total), and consider options. The idea being to recreate a moderate and reasonably manageable independent route on the Apron. The 1961 route, done in mountain boots, involved some fierce slab climbing for the time.

There's some pretty cool virtual history on the YCA site - www.yosemiteclimbing.org
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 12, 2010 - 01:23am PT
Bricks shannan? whoa yer right
It was the laptop, briefcase and cell phone headset that made me think of MD. mike went from a underfunded granola cruncher to high flying sales tycoon in about a month - and hasn't stopped.

I went with Bricks, Bob milward and pete shackleton and i think ross nicol and maybe some others in the middle of winter to assault the vulcans thumb. i think we made it as far as metal dome and froze in gregs mackinley tent. I think i wore jeans and got blisters. For some reason i always remember that tent full of fog from the cooking pot and greg looking like that guy (kinda like Hagrid in harry potter) laughing on the other side.
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