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Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 14, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
Yes, Kerwin - writing guidebooks and histories is a sure bet for making friends. :-)

The FFA of the left side of the Split Pillar was by visiting Australian Nic Taylor and Peter Peart, in 1975. Peter had emigrated from Australia to Canada in 1970 or so, and was quite active. I knew him through the BCMC, and also we had some classes together in 1975, and he mentioned his and Nic's adventure to me. (Really.) I have several times attempted to correct the "Paul" bit, without success. Peter still lives here, on Bowen Island - he's an engineer. Nic was here on a road trip - I believe the first Australian to pass this way on a visit may have been Chris Baxter, in 1972.

There was some skepticism about Nic and Peter's ascent, in that Peter was more into mountaineering, and Nic not well known. But Nic went on to do some impressive climbs in Australia and Yosemite, offering additional proof. I'm reasonably sure that Peter jumared the crux, or at least had a tight rope.

Peter patiently belayed me on the FA of A Question of Balance, in 1977. That is, while I tiptoed about, drilled bolts, and got scared.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Apr 14, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
Yes, Kerwin - writing guidebooks and histories is a sure bet for making friends. :-)

And don't forget the part about gettin rich.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 14, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
Oplo - Hank would have probably been an oversight and not an omission. Chic is a Rockies guy and he depended upon the Coast Range people to lead him from one person to the next and point him in the direction of the people with the stories.
He did, however, parse the people involved as to what he felt they had contributed so ultimately the reasons Mather was not included rest with Chic - and I can't speak to that.
I'm not an apologist for Chic but to suggest he made decisions and not everyone might agree with them.


EDIT - Bruce - if Bill Price ticked the L Side it would 'a been in '79 - I think that was his and Big Wally's trip to Squash when he did the 2nd ascent of Sentry Box.
Could'a been '80 but no later then that.


L Side of the pillar is big, mean and really really hard. It's a phenomenal tick for the Aussies in the mid-70's.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 14, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
Jim Campbell's 1985 topo guide has the FA of the so-called "Grand Wazoo" by Dick Culbert and Tim Auger in 1972. The Grand Wazoo was (I believe) a Daryl name which never caught on for the left side of the Pillar, followed by a short pitch linking to the ledge at the top of the Pillar. Perhaps from a time when Nic's ascent wasn't given credence.

Dick was involved in Ten Years After in 1970 (not 1971), and so would have known how to get to the base of the left side via Mercy Me and the traverse. Jim's guide incorrectly reports the FFA of the "Grand Wazoo to Grand Wall" being by Bill Price, Daryl Hatten and Mike Boris in 1978. That more accurately was the second free ascent of the left side, with the new linkup pitch. (Later further confused by the "Grinning Weasel".)

I wonder if Peter P has photos from the left side?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 14, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
Grinning Weasel sounds like a Croft name. Whut was it ?

IIRC there was a number of heinous bolts connecting to the base of the L side back in the day. I know I was dragged up that thing once.....it could'a been twice . I recall the bottom of the L side being very steep & weirdly protected. That, and the pillar appeared to be held on at the bottom by just that little tinky portion of rock ; the L side crack extended down and to the right and gave us the shivers the entire pillar was, in fact, detached.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 14, 2010 - 06:13pm PT
Chic not only missed Hank Mather, he missed Leif-Norman Patterson. Both are worthy of inclusion, but he only had so much space, and it was a judgement call on his part.
Chief

climber
Apr 14, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
OK, I'm watching playoff hockey and drinking while posting so bear with me.
My reference wasn't to the Left Side itself but rather, getting to it from Merci Me. When Nic and Bill did it they accessed it by the BC bolt ladders because few people thought of climbing from Merci Me to the Pillar back then. The legendary Les McDonald apparently explored this area.
Both Nic and Bill were belayed from right under the Left Side roof.

Tom Gibson and George Manson climbed from Ten Tears After over to within a few bolts of the Pillar from Merci Me back in 80ish and told me with a couple pins and a bolt it might go free to the ladder. I placed a bolt to protect the shortcut halfway up pitch two of Merci Me and led the traverse from TYA to the big ledge well below the Left Side placing pins free on lead. Someone later pulled the pins and placed a couple bolts. Botch job. After placing a high protection bolt off the ledge, I climbed the twenty feet or so of poorly protected 11a face from the ledge to the roof.

The moves from the Left Side to the Right Side belay were beyond me (still are) till Peter "found" a secret foothold which later fell off. (12b now I think)

Linking Merci Me to the Left Side free meant that the Grand now went free to the top of the Sword via the Left Side and that meant a lot to me then and still does now.
Kevin McLane insists Dave Loeks and Bill Putnam did this previously.
I saw no evidence and they've never corroborated his story so till then I call bullsh#t.
Thanks, back to the playoffs.

Perry
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 15, 2010 - 12:44am PT
The moves from the Left Side to the Right Side belay were beyond me (still are) till Peter "found" a secret foothold which later fell off. (12b now I think)

I was watching Dean Hart thru binoculars as he stepped onto that foothold. A few moments later the foot hold blew, Dean popped off and I saw the former foot hold tumble to the ground. But this was them going for the Left Side from the tree belay, so maybe I am talking about some thing else. Should I post a picture ? I might have something somewhere ...

Nice work on the linkage Perry, I was not aware it was you who established the traverse.
Chief

climber
Apr 15, 2010 - 12:48am PT
Thanks Bruce, my point exactly.
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 15, 2010 - 01:02am PT
"found" = chipped ?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 15, 2010 - 01:15am PT
Which Peter ? If it was Croft then no, he didn't chip. Not that I recall at any rate........
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 15, 2010 - 01:24am PT
I'll eventually ask Dick and Tim how they got to the left side in 1972, also Peter how they did it in 1975. Daryl and Eric climbed the bolt ladders to get to the right side when they freed it, and Eric and I did Mercy Me in 1974 without any discussion as to going across from there - although as noted, Steve, Hugh and Dick somehow got partway over in 1970. Loeks and Putnam tried to scoop Eric and Daryl on the right side, and repeated it not long after. I don't recall anything unusual about how they got there, and the first mention of people going across from Mercy Me was maybe in the late 1970s (?).
Chief

climber
Apr 15, 2010 - 09:51am PT
It was Peter Croft and he told me he just "tapped a loose flake with a carabiner" and voila, nice foothold. Later the rest of the little flake fell off

Ten Years After was accessed from the top of Merci Me via a downward right traverse involving some aid. I don't know of anyone continuing right to the ladders although from TYA a short lower and pendulum would get you to the last fifty feet of BC ladders.

While there's lots I don't know about anything much less Squamish history, I can say that nobody climbed over to the Pillar free via Merci Me and those pin protected ledges before I did it on Tom and George's recommendation.
If there's something more than hearsay that proves me wrong, I'll fess up, say I was wrong and buy someone a beer. Till then, I'm loudly calling BS on Kevin's guides and not just on this matter.

Regards,

Perry
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 15, 2010 - 11:03am PT
Perry, what is the history of the "Daily Planet" ? I remember Hamish had a fair bit to say about it.

klk

Trad climber
cali
Apr 15, 2010 - 11:12am PT
The moves from the Left Side to the Right Side belay were beyond me (still are) till Peter "found" a secret foothold which later fell off. (12b now I think)

Heh.

That was my favorite move on GW. There was a buttonhead w/o a hanger right at that move. That foothold was positive, but not really big enough to switch feet easily. Two sidepulls for the hands.

I grabbed the sidepulls, put my right foot on that foothold, hooked my left toe back under the corner/roof, then let go both hands and leaned over to grab the belay ledge. Asked for slack and then cut loose.

When Scott followed he worked the same beta, got into that sidescale position, with the exposure under him, and reached for the ledge-- but he was about a foot short. Heh.

I really liked that Merci Me to R. SP section. It had the first really exposed feeling moves on the climb.

Now exfoliated, along with the rest of my memories.

Chief

climber
Apr 15, 2010 - 11:31am PT
The history of the Daily Planet is complex and colorful and at the time, it seemed like much was at stake. It's a subject that's deserving of it's own thread. Likewise for my beef with Kevin's guidebooks and his penchant for historical revisionism.

It's impossible for any guide book to be complete as it's outdated as soon as it's printed. It's hard to tell the whole story in a way that will satisfy everyone.
Guide books don't have to tell the whole story but they do have to tell the truth.
There's lots of good examples.

Back to Mighty's thread.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 15, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
A point of clarification. Upthread [Lonely Planet] bmacd is referring to Hamish F, and not to me. What a phenom. Wish I could have climbed like that. Dang!!!
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 15, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
Darnit, we just dragged out Peter Crofts dirty laundry on a historical thread and Chief bows out gracefully on more history lessons ...

Perhaps some grievances are best forgotten, lest they make us ill

Of course subject matter buried as thread drift, few would suspect to look here
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 15, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
Hamie:
Bmacd is referring to Hamish F, and not to me. What a phenom. Wish I could have climbed like that. Dang!!!

You are being a bit modest here; your climbing was never too shabby, and your climbing record speaks for itself.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 15, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
I"m with Glenn, Hamie has MUTCH to be proud of .........as does the other Hamish.

Well, dangnabbit, I prolly belayed Croft when he 'tapped that hold' and I don't remember. Seriously I don't.
If it came down to a problem of being too short, then I was prolly really too much way too short. Don't know there was any runt shorter then me at Squash 'cept for people climbing with their 8 year olds.

:-D

I like that Perry said the Daily Planet was a colourful first ascent and, at the time a lot seemed to be at stake. That's it about climbing , eh? Much ado about climbing ?

Hard to believe that was 25 years ago.
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