ABOUT JOHN BACHAR'S ACCIDENT

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pa

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 30, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
I did not have the stomach for it when John's father asked me to, a month after the accident.
However, given the recurrent discussions about soloing, so frequently peppered by speculation over what might have happened to John, I feel compelled to share with the climbing community what evidence I have, regarding the circumstances of his death.

People can draw their own conclusions, as I have drawn mine.
I hope it will help bring a measure of clarity and closure to all concerned.


1. The autopsy report:
Cause of death: massive cerebral hemmorrhage.
No evidence of internal organ damage.
No cardiac/pulmonary injury.
Both wrists and ankles broken.


2. Body ID:

Three hours after John was pronounced at the Mammoth Hospital, I went to ID his body, ( twice, because the first time, the Sheriff was not able to attend).


The ONLY head trauma was a 3 inch wound at the juncture of the parietal and frontal bone, VERY HIGH,, at the curvature of the crown.

The wound had clean margins, without excoriations or ecchymosis.

It appeared to be a penetrating wound, not a crush wound.

The back and the rest of the head were intact.
"Racoon eyes" were evident.


3.Approximately one month after the accident, John's father and I reviewed the photographs taken at the Mammoth Hospital ER. They confirmed # 2 above.


4. John's father and I read the medics and the ER reports, which supported the autopsy findings.


5. I went to the Dike Wall 40 hours after the fact.

The skid marks of his body in the winter debris/gravel on the slab below Mr. Kamikaze were consistent with a fall from the route itself, NOT from the descent route: The marks would have been further to climber's right, had he fallen while descending.


6. The first party on scene stated that they heard what might have been the sound of a rock falling, then a muffled groan, then they saw a "puff of smoke".


7. I asked Urmas Frenosch to climb the route 4 days after the fact. He stated he could not find evidence of broken holds.

I climbed it myself about a month later and had to agree with him. Please keep in mind that John and I regularly used that climb as a warm-up and had done so 2 days before the accident.
The holds are not abundant and they are all on a couple of dikes that snake across the wall: had anything broken, it would have been quite obvious.


I hope this information will be of help.

I will not be available until later tonight, should there be further questions.

Paola




ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Mar 30, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
Thanks for posting this Paola, I can only imagine the difficulty, but as you say, we can only draw our own conclusions. I hope we will be respectful of this report and only have kind and supporting words for you, John and his family.
Thank you
Peace
Ron and Kelly
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
This is difficult to read but seems timely. Thank you for posting, Paola.
S.Leeper

Sport climber
Austin, Texas
Mar 30, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
Even though you did not have to, thank you for bringing some closure to this very sad event.
RIP John.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Mar 30, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
God, Paola, the guts you have. I can know more than most the pain and grief you feel because of my husbands horrid death. Thank you for the information. There is an under current of speculation, talk and rumor which would be nice to put to rest. I would like to call you sometime if that's ok. Peace and you are in my prayers. Lynne
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 30, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
We started out poorly but I'm happy to say that we parted as friends so this was more info than I wanted, but thank you for putting some closure to the speculation.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Mar 30, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
Paola... tough to post, tough to read... but essential. Thanks. I had always held that there was no way John fell on the descent. Not John. My discussions with him the week (and day) previous about his sudden lack in arm strength/coordination must be the reason for this tragedy.

You are one brave soul.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Mar 30, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
Thanks for the post. Even though we don't know the whole story this very much helps our curiousity and ability to learn from the accident.

I have a friend who broke through a skylight doing contruction and fell 80' to concrete. Broken ankles and wrists too, long recovery. I would guess the same thing happened to John (stuck the landing) but then his head hit as well.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
. . . not !
Mar 30, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
I know he had an appreciation for fortunate climbers who'd survived high falls , such as Bruce Lella's 120 footer (in the Gorge I think) - and I once heard him tell the story of a climber in the valley who was in a death fall and somehow was caught by a seperate rope (?) . Add the fact that he had already survived his own fall while free-soloing ('80s ?) - - - the injuries you describe sound as if he was able to purposely break his fall with his limbs , and for the most part protect his head . There was a paramedic report about him breathing ok when they got to him . Sounds like he almost pulled off another amazing escape , accept for the relatively remote location / time and distance to the hospital .
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 30, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
Love you Paola

Being Real takes courage and helps everyone..THanks

Peace

Karl
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 30, 2010 - 05:12pm PT

Paola
I hope with time it becomes easier for you and
the rest of John's family.
Be well.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Mar 30, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
Thanks, Paola. Sounds like he almost made the landing.

Sorry for your loss, and Tyrus'.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Mar 30, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
Thanks for having the strength to put out the word. I read here the other day that he fell on the walk off. Thanks for the clarification.

As for those that say this doesn't matter? In a sense you are right, but for some reason, I feel it matters.

JB had an effect on all of us, as an inspiration and as a guy who put his money where his mouth was so to speak. His life and now his death, are often in the heads of other climbers.

Does his death lead to a re-evaluation of our personal styles of climbing? I'm not saying it should, but none the less, it sure has.

Does it change anything, knowing the cause? I don't know, but I do think about it.

WBraun

climber
Mar 30, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
Thanks for the analysis.

Very interesting.

For myself I'm pretty interested in this because I've climbed and known John for so long and I'm real curious how he fell.

So the ultimate knowledge is no one really knows if he actually fell while climbing the route or slipped at the very top ready to make the descent.

pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Mar 30, 2010 - 05:53pm PT
Paola,
Thank you for your candor.
Your reasons are good enough.
With great respect for you and John and Tyrus.
-Wayne Burnes
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Mar 30, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
Thank you for this.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 30, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
I agree that it hardly matters if John fell on the walkoff or the route. It might be of note or interest.

We die when it's our time to go and for reasons other than broken holds or loose scree. John has given us signs that this was his time and I wish him well on his journey

and continued love and healing to his loved ones

Peace

Karl
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 30, 2010 - 07:10pm PT
My heart goes out to you Paola.
Pretty straight ahead, as they say in the jazz world, for you to post this stuff up.
And so much more, beyond words.

I'm going to go reread some of the offerings in his birthday thread now.
WBraun

climber
Mar 30, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
".... it hardly matters if John fell on the walk off or the route."

Totally bizarre?

One of the greatest rock climbers and free soloist in the world falls and it doesn't matter how it happened?

Totally bizarre ....



Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 30, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
Thank you, Paola. I hope that you and Tyrus, and John's and Tyrus' family, are doing OK. It was good of you to post this information, if only to mute guesses about what happened, and why. We may never know exactly, but this rules out many theories.

Anders
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 30, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
It obviously matters to Paola how John died, and therefore to the rest of us. As someone who lost a former husband to climbing, I know I was not satisfied until I had explored every aspect of what went wrong - which I have also written about on ST.

Experts in post traumatic stress emphasize that the worst thing one can do is bottle up feelings and not deal with them. Reliving the events over and over until one has dealt with each detail and how one feels about it, with compassion for the deceased person and oneself, is a large part of the healing process.

Our society is very poor at facing death and practitioners of our sport prefer the macho glory accounts, but part of being a real human being, is to consider what happens when things go wrong. There is a reason that there are so many religiously themed threads on this forum.

I commend Paola for having the courage to post the details here knowing that some people are probably not as strong as she is or as willing to contemplate the consequences of of theirs and other climber's actions.



Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 30, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
Paola and Jan, thanks for all that you've chosen to share with us.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 30, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
You're a very strong woman Paola, thank you for this.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Mar 30, 2010 - 09:18pm PT
yes, again, thanks paola.

much as we'd all like to know, definitively, what happened, we just won't.
Jobee

Social climber
The Portal
Mar 30, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
Paola,
You are strong, brave, and remarkable. It gladdens my heart to know that you are the person John held fast to; he was a lucky man, and I know that he was loved. For me this matters much.

This quote helps me when life appears to be senseless.

Everything is determined, the beginning as well as the end, by forces over which we have no control.
It is determined for the insect as well for the star. Human beings, vegetables, or cosmic dust, we all dance to a mysterious tune, intoned in the distance by an invisible piper. -Albert Einstein.

With much gratitude, and respect.

Jo Whitford
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 30, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
Please note that it was John's father who asked Paola to do this.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
Mar 30, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
Life is so short.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Mar 30, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
God bless you, RIP John.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Mar 30, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
I agree with Coz... let's try and refocus this on the courage of Paola and keep speculation off these pages. I am as guilty as any in this regard...

Perhaps we can all use this loss to re-examine our own lives and goals.
ninjah

Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
Mar 30, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
sounds like he most likely was hit in the head first and thats what most likely would have killed him! Not the fall! That wall is not very big. But there sure is alot of lose looking rock above. It just seems to add up to a horrible rock fall that caused head trauma and then a nasty fall with broken wrist and ankles. AND NO ORGAN INJURYS. I've seen him climb sence his car accident.. he still had it!! dude does not fall!!!!!!!!!
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Mar 30, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
Jan and the Chief have deep wisdom here for us.

edit: and Lynnie does too.

I honor you, Paola, for your courage in writing this.

chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Mar 30, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
JB had a great LIFE!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Mar 31, 2010 - 01:27am PT
Yes, chez, and JB gave to life and people and had so many great people in his life. We all do only have a number of days. None of us know that number.

Dan died unexpectedly, John died unexpectedly.....the message to this gal is live each day, one day at a time. Live each moment loving the people around you. Help those in need, follow your dreams. I have reviewed my life since Dan died. What you have is more than enough to share with others. Give, Love, Live....each day, a step at a time with Peace, Patience and Perseverance.

I thought that after experiencing the death of one I loved I would eventually be me again, be ok, go on with life. Well I am going on and I will be ok......but I will never be "me" again. Not the old me. Life is never the same after someone you love dies. It's not like a sickness you can recover from and be better again. It's life changing. And I know the ones we loved want us to become more than we ever thought we could be in our days ahead. We cherish them, they are rooting for us. Peace, Lynne
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
. . . not !
Mar 31, 2010 - 03:45am PT
"Pick Pocket" (The Chief referring to one of Bachar's Gorge routes) I never did it , but it looks super aesthetic . I like what Werner said up-thread too .
pa

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 08:52am PT
I am grateful for the understanding in everybody's kind words.

If further clarification is needed, feel free to e-mail me.

Peace.
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Mar 31, 2010 - 09:06am PT
Well, Paola, you were obviously a great match for John's mental strength and honesty. How anyone could read the facts of the accident as you've presented them and not conclude that to a high degree of certainty that John was first hit in the head by a falling stone, and only after that fell to the ground, is beyond me. The rope - or no rope in this case - would have had no bearing on the outcome. John's death should probably be attributed to stonefall rather than a free-soloing fall.

Thank you again for your grace and strength.

-Jeff
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Mar 31, 2010 - 09:15am PT
Paola, I also want to thank you for your forthrightness in this painful matter, and the grace and dignity you have brought this closure. I so hope John's loved ones find peace and comfort for their futures. RIP JB.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Mar 31, 2010 - 10:51am PT
God bless you too Lynnie. Wise, wise words. Thank you. Cherish those you love today, tomorrow may not come.
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
Feb 23, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Just read this thread. I don't see anything that rules out John Bachar having had a stroke. Have to agree with wBraun.
One of the greatest rock climbers and free soloist in the world falls and it doesn't matter how it happened?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Apr 26, 2015 - 05:33pm PT
Tobia,I have bumped this to satisfy our joint curiosity how is it that I did not and you did not see this thread then it comes up as the longest stayed /visited and left open an average? Of six minutes? That is how I see it by what that CMac post & chart say.
EDIT: the answer was the google search engine, huh?



Anyway what a man and an inspiring climber with his own ideas and direction

As the next solo artists performing have made clear,

they have no death wish. . .

It is a life wish,

to experience life at it's finest,

so pure

a puff of dust
the rock,
rubber
and a thought

I will climb up!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 26, 2015 - 06:41pm PT

John is still missed. Moreso after watching Valley Uprising on
TV last night. . .
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Apr 26, 2015 - 06:52pm PT


Bad Climber

climber
Apr 26, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
Hey, Wolf--I like those! Nicely done.

Honor the fallen heroes.

BAd
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Apr 26, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
I commisioned those with the permission of Phil Bard who shot the original photos. The original paintings were auctioned off for Tyrus' fund.
Ma'ila

Boulder climber
Ventura, CA
Nov 7, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
Please, how can we contribute to T's fund?
Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic
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