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Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Mar 17, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
Nice thread.
And methinks the rumors of overcrowding is a touch exaggerated.
Still tons and tons of good rock with no lines.
Especially mid-week.

Thanks for the stories, all - can't wait to read more.

TC
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
"At LEAST five people have been killed there "climbing"."
huh?


Discovered some extensive "farming irrigation" down in the canyon way upstream from Dinosaur Rock, by another crag, that gave me pause for thought. Decided I didn't need to explore anymore that day as it was around harvest time.

And Ron, the story of how a route was named after your "Peter Pan" impression in your youth at Dinosaur is in the new guidebook. lol
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
Any of those deaths due to exposure/frostbite? I've heard tale of a bunch of wackos who go down into that cold canyon in the middle of winter, with snow on the ground, in the middle of the night (while it's snowing) and practice aid climbing while downing great quantities of beer. Now those guys are ASKING TO DIE. LMAO


Edit: Yeah, found an old pin below the overhangs above the creek. Kind of a hidden spot down in there.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
Curious why Squaw Valley never saw much development. I know the granite under the tram is course grained and a bit crumbly, but has potential for some nice multi pitch routes.

There are also a smattering of smaller granite outcrops of better granite in the Squaw.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
Tolman-

Wait till the new North Tahoe guidebook comes out for an answer to that question. The Shirley Canyon Wall is one of the best "undiscovered" walls in Tahoe. Back in the late 70s/80s someone exploring for new climbing there discovered an ancient wood piton in a 5.8 crack. Some undocumented history and a bunch of amazing routes there!

Btw- There are a couple of shorter routes you are reported to be responsible for on a smaller wall closer to the trailhead. Shoot me an E-mail and I'll send you a proof of the photo/topo for those routes if you are interested.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 18, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
Yup, that's the wall in Squaw, I made some minor corrections in an e-mail. I did play around on some short cracks and other piddly stuff I top roped. I'll have to scan some pics.

I did check out some other areas as well. Going up I-80 there are some cliffs you can see on the other side of the hwy form the I-40 turnoff to Donner. I didn't end up with a full charge in the drill, so only managed a pair of tr bolts and tried to work one problem. There is an overhanging wall there that should produce a couple of hard routes.

Going down I-80 back towards Sacramento there are some cliff bands on the N side of the highway by the Grass Valley exit, in the vacinity of Rainbow but opposite side of the highway. I did put up one route there, I don't recall much about the route, I think it had 5 bolts and was 5.7-or 5.8. Somehow I forgot the hammer so had to use a rock to set the bolts. There were also yellow jackets buzzing me.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 19, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
Further flashback. I also did a little bit of work around Donner. Above the ledge of Bolt run I put up a slab route or two, easy 5.6 ish and somebody chopped em, go figger.

On the far right of the Star Wall I put up an 11b-c project, as I recall I put up 4 bolts and a 2 bolt (forgive me) cold shut rap station. As I recall the lead bolts were all 1/2", and some of them might have been petzl long lifes. I have no doubt that route has been climbed, be curious what it rates at.
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Mar 19, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
Lot's of new development in the Bowman lake area too. Along with the Emeralds, B wall, etc there are a handful of mini areas now.

in particular Carvel and Co. have put up a stack of high quality routes in the area directly below Bowman dam (aka Larry land).

Further up the road I found a perfect slab wall where I put up 6 one pitch face routes in the 5.6 - 5.10a range with the potential of 3-4 more. It's very similar to Indian Springs wall. Can't wait to go back this Spring.

Lots of rock in them thar hills!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 19, 2010 - 07:12pm PT
Tolman:

Re: Star Walls project.

Was that located to the right of Star Walls (North) just to the right of Steep Climb Named Desire, Star Walls Crack, etc.? Or to the right of Star Walls (South) A.K.A. Gemstone Wall?
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 19, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
I'll have to dig up my guidbook, but as I recall, far R of Start Walls North, maybe 100' to the right of steep clime named desire. As I recall it has a small overhanging bulge/arete and ends at a ledge.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Mar 19, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
Tolman,
There's some great bouldering in Shirley Cyn behind the construction shop.

That Squaw wall looks great, always meant to drag a rope up there.

How about the power line boulders near Rainbow or the boulders on Castle Peak?

For that matter, how about the boulders in Donner Lakes west end neighborhood?

Tons of stuff out there!

PS- How about the basalt opposite the Truckee river at the intersection of 89 and W River St?

How about Coldstream rock routes?

How about the bolted routes on Donner Peak?

I love Tahoe!

PPS- I've done a descent of Squaws tram line from high camp to tower one. Sketchy to say the least... Kitty litter humps with mandatory chasm leaps, all with tram-goers watching. Scary.

BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 19, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
Nice stories Ron.....Walked up to Whites Wall and was amazed by the crack lines there...I definately took a long approach that SUCKED and would not do it again until I find the right way there...
Up clear creek I thought I found a new crag until I saw your old pins and bolts... Is there anywhere you guys havnt been?
Ron
What about the crag at spooner behind the DOT station. There's an anchor halfway down the wall with one old bolt at the top. Doesnt look like it would take gear to the anchor from ground up.

Advent. One I was at Dinosaur a couple years ago with the beer drinking, snow on the ground, at night group and almost got arrested by "the tribe" police. Called everyone a bunch of idiots for aid climbing at night bla bla bla....
Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Mar 19, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
Ron- Can you tell us anything about Rick Sumner?

EDIT Hey, Shawn, I'll be at Woodford's Sat
if you can come...

EDIT Got it. Look forward to it. OOTD!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 19, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
Foot
Thanks for the invite but I work Fri-Mond until the snow melts... Then game ON!!!!!
Shawn
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
Definately some granite under tower 1


I did climb up the gulley under the tower in the spring and considered that it would be cool to ski down it. Not too steep, but quite narrow at the top.

But what really intrigued me was this.


Unfortunately by the times my skills were up to tackling the main face, my folks had sold their place at Squaw. I did get up a smaller lump of granite near the base of tower 1.


Looking up towards what I termed Santanna wall.

tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
Definately lots of bouldering possiblities


For fans of the wide


Ok, maybe it should have just been a boulder problem, but I think this might be the very first thing I ever lead. And what good is gear if you don't place it once in awhile.

Ropeboy

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 21, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Speaking of old names, what ever happened to Gene Drake? I used to climb with him at the Leap in the late sixties and we climbed The Line about a year after its first free ascent. We were young and it was a major accomplishment for us during our 20 day climbing trip in a $75 truck.
Mark Haymond
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 22, 2010 - 12:14am PT
Re Gene Drake-

Gene posts here occasionally as "Old Cragster". He is living in Washington State. He recently contributed some historical perspective for the new Tahoe guidebook.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 22, 2010 - 12:27am PT
I just want to add a couple names that I think are synonymous with the "Golden Age" of Tahoe, Gene Drake and John Hoffman.

Edit:
Sh#t you guys beat me to it!
Tolman great photos. Rode the cable car today and was looking at all the rock! Makes ya think!
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 22, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
toleman paul,
that looks like deliverance.
hah. good climb.
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