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Messages 1 - 262 of total 262 in this topic
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 12, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
jay smith.
paul crawford.

props to those artists.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 12, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
steve miller too.
love his routes.
Rankin

climber
North Carolina
Mar 12, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
dimitri barton as well.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 12, 2010 - 03:00pm PT
The Leap was where I did my first serious lead climbing. I really only knew what I had read in books as far as protection goes. Luckily, I had some climbing skills and I wasn't falling a heck of a lot. I remember running in to guys like Sumner and Cashner that gave me a few tips on things. If it wasn't for the fact that I was solid at bouldering they probably wouldn't have even talked to me. Those were the noob days.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Mar 12, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
Tony Yaniro, Hiddetaka Suzuki, Richard Leversee
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 12, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
tm herbert put up a few classics in the area.

mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Mar 12, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
I think I have that old Eric Beck guide kicking around. Was it for Donnar Summit area?
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 12, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
Nice post Ron. Hope others will continue to post up about the Golden Age (1970s) of Tahoe climbing.

I started climbing at Donner / Tahoe in 1982, just at the end of the Golden Age. Even then I still remember seeing many of the , now, classic cracks on Snowshed Wall packed with dirt and plants and there were large bushes along the base. Now the base looks like a park and it's hard to believe the same cracks that have been "scrubed clean as a new carabiner" from thousands of ascents were once dirty.

As for "Friends" being the new fangled thing at the end of the 70s/early 80s, most of the Tahoe "dirtbag" climbers I remember could barely afford a handful of nuts and hexes let alone "friends". And forget about placing any un-needed bolts (placed strictly ground up of course), could use that money for food or the one thing that you rarely found Tahoe climbers of the Golden Age without. (On Donner routes from the 70s you would be hard pressed to find a truly un-needed bolt) Definately not a yuppy crowd back then. Wasn't until the late 80s that most local climbers had friends on their rack. I couldn't justify spending money on those fancy things until the early 90s, lol. (heck, those old
"Golden Age" climbers didn't need them for the routes we were climbing)

Speaking of pioneer climbers from the "Golden Age" of Tahoe / Donner, a couple of prominent climbers are conspicously missing from the above lists:

John "The Pope of Donner Summit" Hoffman
Karl Hammer
And the "Fred Becky" Of Tahoe/Donner/Northern Nevada, Alvin McClain (RIP)

After the new guidebook comes out maybe the youngsters will have a new "Golden Age" as it's going to point the way to lots of new stuff and totally blow away the misconception that the Tahoe region is climbed out.

Keep this thread alive, as there are a bunch of worthy stories out there.
jstan

climber
Mar 12, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
In the 60's a good friend kept telling me I had to go to Lover's Leap. I never went and never will go.

Do I wonder?

You get up in the morning and success consists of one and only one thing.

To be able to draw in a breath of cool fresh air.

Nothing else is as important.

Then or now.
Stewart Johnson

climber
yo mama
Mar 12, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
gee ron,
tapestry is now crushed velvet with nine bolts...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Mar 12, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
There was also a short lived fad of SWAMI BELT ONLY

fad? short lived??
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Mar 13, 2010 - 10:45am PT
Who's bouldered in Olympic Valley? I found some excellent problems in Shirley Canyon.

Tahoe is in no way climbed out.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Mar 13, 2010 - 11:07am PT
ron,
good thread. I grew up in tahoe and i have many fond memories.
Ken Ariza, Bob Baldwin, Tommy T (T2), Rick Lovelace and Dave Hatchett were my partners from 1979 and later years..

Dave still lives there and is putting up new bouldering areas every year.

Here are some memorable days of yore...
1982 karls over hang- swami belt anyone..


bouldering with kenny



first solo of manic depression- 1986- bachar took this photo and then soled it after one TR burn!



kurt



hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 13, 2010 - 11:11am PT
My Folks were climbing at the Leap almost every weekend through the 70s. Wonder if any of you guys crossed paths with them and their climbing partners.

My dad tells me the good ol' stories about Lovers Leap back when it really kicked ass, no camp ground, drive up, find a place, talk to friends, everyone pitch in for dinner. The same small group all the time..

..Its a bigger community now for sure...Good stories thanks for sharing them.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Mar 13, 2010 - 11:22am PT
I first climbed at the Leap in 1972. There was not a soul around, bar my climbing partner and myself. Same thing with Castle Crags in 1974. I'd hate to see what those areas are like now, especially the Leap.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 13, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
We went up to the Leap and Sugarloaf pretty regularly in the mid-70's when I was at UC-Davis. I remember it was a big deal if you had done "The Line". I still have a copy of Gene Drake's guide to the area. I think it had about 20 or so routes.

We used to go up there in winter and climb the moderate routes at the Leap, like Bear's Reach, in mountain boots, ice axes, etc. to get a feel for the big climbs in the Alps.

Bruce
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Mar 13, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
A bit of trivia on the background of my Tahoe guide: My girlfriend of the time was director of the Tahoe City Parks and Recreation Department and had visions of founding a publishing empire. I had originally wanted to only do Donner Summit. I imagined 5 or 6 pages mimeoed (before xerox) and selling for enough to cover costs, maybe a quarter. She convinced me that I absolutely had to do the entire lake.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 13, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
Kurt, Bachar soloed Manic after having done it only once? Yikes! That's pretty impressive.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 13, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
Keep the stories coming Ron....
There still is some "golden age" in Tahoe....ie Woodfords. Still has the feel that you describe from the early Tahoe days. We still need to grab a beer with Chim Chim some night and get a little more history from you.
Shawn
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 17, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
jeff lowe's contribution of surrealistic direct is a fine crack climb.

overhanging 10a hands with wild exposure! gosh thats purty.
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Mar 17, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
Nice thread.
And methinks the rumors of overcrowding is a touch exaggerated.
Still tons and tons of good rock with no lines.
Especially mid-week.

Thanks for the stories, all - can't wait to read more.

TC
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
"At LEAST five people have been killed there "climbing"."
huh?


Discovered some extensive "farming irrigation" down in the canyon way upstream from Dinosaur Rock, by another crag, that gave me pause for thought. Decided I didn't need to explore anymore that day as it was around harvest time.

And Ron, the story of how a route was named after your "Peter Pan" impression in your youth at Dinosaur is in the new guidebook. lol
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
Any of those deaths due to exposure/frostbite? I've heard tale of a bunch of wackos who go down into that cold canyon in the middle of winter, with snow on the ground, in the middle of the night (while it's snowing) and practice aid climbing while downing great quantities of beer. Now those guys are ASKING TO DIE. LMAO


Edit: Yeah, found an old pin below the overhangs above the creek. Kind of a hidden spot down in there.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
Curious why Squaw Valley never saw much development. I know the granite under the tram is course grained and a bit crumbly, but has potential for some nice multi pitch routes.

There are also a smattering of smaller granite outcrops of better granite in the Squaw.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 17, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
Tolman-

Wait till the new North Tahoe guidebook comes out for an answer to that question. The Shirley Canyon Wall is one of the best "undiscovered" walls in Tahoe. Back in the late 70s/80s someone exploring for new climbing there discovered an ancient wood piton in a 5.8 crack. Some undocumented history and a bunch of amazing routes there!

Btw- There are a couple of shorter routes you are reported to be responsible for on a smaller wall closer to the trailhead. Shoot me an E-mail and I'll send you a proof of the photo/topo for those routes if you are interested.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 18, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
Yup, that's the wall in Squaw, I made some minor corrections in an e-mail. I did play around on some short cracks and other piddly stuff I top roped. I'll have to scan some pics.

I did check out some other areas as well. Going up I-80 there are some cliffs you can see on the other side of the hwy form the I-40 turnoff to Donner. I didn't end up with a full charge in the drill, so only managed a pair of tr bolts and tried to work one problem. There is an overhanging wall there that should produce a couple of hard routes.

Going down I-80 back towards Sacramento there are some cliff bands on the N side of the highway by the Grass Valley exit, in the vacinity of Rainbow but opposite side of the highway. I did put up one route there, I don't recall much about the route, I think it had 5 bolts and was 5.7-or 5.8. Somehow I forgot the hammer so had to use a rock to set the bolts. There were also yellow jackets buzzing me.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 19, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
Further flashback. I also did a little bit of work around Donner. Above the ledge of Bolt run I put up a slab route or two, easy 5.6 ish and somebody chopped em, go figger.

On the far right of the Star Wall I put up an 11b-c project, as I recall I put up 4 bolts and a 2 bolt (forgive me) cold shut rap station. As I recall the lead bolts were all 1/2", and some of them might have been petzl long lifes. I have no doubt that route has been climbed, be curious what it rates at.
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Mar 19, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
Lot's of new development in the Bowman lake area too. Along with the Emeralds, B wall, etc there are a handful of mini areas now.

in particular Carvel and Co. have put up a stack of high quality routes in the area directly below Bowman dam (aka Larry land).

Further up the road I found a perfect slab wall where I put up 6 one pitch face routes in the 5.6 - 5.10a range with the potential of 3-4 more. It's very similar to Indian Springs wall. Can't wait to go back this Spring.

Lots of rock in them thar hills!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 19, 2010 - 07:12pm PT
Tolman:

Re: Star Walls project.

Was that located to the right of Star Walls (North) just to the right of Steep Climb Named Desire, Star Walls Crack, etc.? Or to the right of Star Walls (South) A.K.A. Gemstone Wall?
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 19, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
I'll have to dig up my guidbook, but as I recall, far R of Start Walls North, maybe 100' to the right of steep clime named desire. As I recall it has a small overhanging bulge/arete and ends at a ledge.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Mar 19, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
Tolman,
There's some great bouldering in Shirley Cyn behind the construction shop.

That Squaw wall looks great, always meant to drag a rope up there.

How about the power line boulders near Rainbow or the boulders on Castle Peak?

For that matter, how about the boulders in Donner Lakes west end neighborhood?

Tons of stuff out there!

PS- How about the basalt opposite the Truckee river at the intersection of 89 and W River St?

How about Coldstream rock routes?

How about the bolted routes on Donner Peak?

I love Tahoe!

PPS- I've done a descent of Squaws tram line from high camp to tower one. Sketchy to say the least... Kitty litter humps with mandatory chasm leaps, all with tram-goers watching. Scary.

BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 19, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
Nice stories Ron.....Walked up to Whites Wall and was amazed by the crack lines there...I definately took a long approach that SUCKED and would not do it again until I find the right way there...
Up clear creek I thought I found a new crag until I saw your old pins and bolts... Is there anywhere you guys havnt been?
Ron
What about the crag at spooner behind the DOT station. There's an anchor halfway down the wall with one old bolt at the top. Doesnt look like it would take gear to the anchor from ground up.

Advent. One I was at Dinosaur a couple years ago with the beer drinking, snow on the ground, at night group and almost got arrested by "the tribe" police. Called everyone a bunch of idiots for aid climbing at night bla bla bla....
Shawn
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Mar 19, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
Ron- Can you tell us anything about Rick Sumner?

EDIT Hey, Shawn, I'll be at Woodford's Sat
if you can come...

EDIT Got it. Look forward to it. OOTD!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 19, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
Foot
Thanks for the invite but I work Fri-Mond until the snow melts... Then game ON!!!!!
Shawn
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
Definately some granite under tower 1


I did climb up the gulley under the tower in the spring and considered that it would be cool to ski down it. Not too steep, but quite narrow at the top.

But what really intrigued me was this.


Unfortunately by the times my skills were up to tackling the main face, my folks had sold their place at Squaw. I did get up a smaller lump of granite near the base of tower 1.


Looking up towards what I termed Santanna wall.

tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
Definately lots of bouldering possiblities


For fans of the wide


Ok, maybe it should have just been a boulder problem, but I think this might be the very first thing I ever lead. And what good is gear if you don't place it once in awhile.

Ropeboy

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 21, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Speaking of old names, what ever happened to Gene Drake? I used to climb with him at the Leap in the late sixties and we climbed The Line about a year after its first free ascent. We were young and it was a major accomplishment for us during our 20 day climbing trip in a $75 truck.
Mark Haymond
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 22, 2010 - 12:14am PT
Re Gene Drake-

Gene posts here occasionally as "Old Cragster". He is living in Washington State. He recently contributed some historical perspective for the new Tahoe guidebook.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 22, 2010 - 12:27am PT
I just want to add a couple names that I think are synonymous with the "Golden Age" of Tahoe, Gene Drake and John Hoffman.

Edit:
Sh#t you guys beat me to it!
Tolman great photos. Rode the cable car today and was looking at all the rock! Makes ya think!
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Mar 22, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
toleman paul,
that looks like deliverance.
hah. good climb.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jul 4, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
Does anybody know if Gene Drake owned the trading card/comic boo kstore near Sierra Boulevard? I unfortunately had to sell my baseball card collection to that store to make bills once when I was 20 years old. Also I believe he coached a couple of my little league teams as well.

Kurt "the kid"

just wanted to say that you were someone I looked up to when I first started climbing (still do) in 1990. I had heard of some of your accomplishments in Tuolumne and thought it was cool that a local "viking" (you did go to South Tahoe didn't you?) was doing the kinds of routes you did.. I went to Al Tahoe through 5th grade then moved and became a "warrioir" after that. I graduated in 1986, but knew many people from South Tahoe, maybe even a few people that you knew, but I believe that you are a couple of years older than me. I met you a couple of times at OR, and you were always cool and laid back.

take care
dave
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jul 4, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
Ron-

thanks for the reply and stopping in the store recently. Unfortunately I missed you, I believe you met my partner Ryan?

Jim Arnold is a good friend of as friend and I see him almost every summer when he comes out to visit. Super cool dude!!

About Gene do you know if he owned that store and if he coached little league. I believe I also played Pop Warner with his son, who knows though it has been many years and I could have him confused with someone else.

Well I am still healing (both mentally and physically) from my fall last month. I went through a couple of weeks of being pissed at myself for doing what I did and putting my family and friends (especially my partners Eric and Steve) through so much worry. But everyone has been so supportive and helping me realize that I am human and sh#t does happen. and we do some stupid stuff sometimes. Thanks for asking hope to meet you someday.

take care
dave
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 4, 2010 - 03:54pm PT

note tube socks*
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 4, 2010 - 04:40pm PT

More Pie Shop fun.....

*circa 85'
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Jul 4, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
last I heard of sumner was up in alaska. thats been quite a while ago.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 4, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
Ya know Ron, if you could enlarge any or all of those slides, I don't think I, would be the only one to be grateful...
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 5, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
AL, that was a cool pic of walk like an egyptian.
Was that the FA?
I don't remember..

here is a classic photo of ken ariza bouldering @ pie shop, winter of 1983/84. my mom made us those fleece pants for ice climbing:


Tahoe was a great place to grow up and i miss it..

kurt
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 5, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
life is good in WV, New river Gorge.
lots to climb here, so west coast folks, get a move on east this fall..


the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 5, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
here a classic scarefest!
second time leading panic in detroit. this shot is 1984, right when Fire's were available.



first time i lead it was 1982 after many tr burns..
ks
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 5, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
Yo Kurt - Crawford and I put up the route in 84'. You probably got the second. (or maybe it was Troy Mayr).The other route is New Blood 12a, a route I put up on stance.....I think that's Banny on the second.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 5, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
good eye Ron, it is strawberry chalk bag. good route Al dude, stance master!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 5, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
First ascent of Babylon. I think it was sometime in the summer of 78.

Notice that there are no cams on the rack.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 5, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
An early or the First ascent of Sky Pilot. Summer of 77?

jstan

climber
Jul 5, 2010 - 08:10pm PT
God!

Nothing is worse than a bunch of old farts.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 5, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
No, not at all.

We each bought two sets (a 1, 2 and a 3) for the Headwall on the Salathe. Later that year, Ray gave Max and I two sets of half sizes, not yet in production at that time. I think Max still has those.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 5, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
Again Ron.......nice pics and posts. Love the history!!!!!!!
Shawn
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 6, 2010 - 09:35am PT
Mark,
great photos man keep on scanning. Sky Pilot is such a classic as are all those lines on black Wall!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 6, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
Yeah, you'd have to be crazy to climb on Black Wall. ;-)
Chute

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Jul 8, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
Still looking for my photos from those days...Banny Root and Paul Crawford at the Pie Shop and Glory Days at the Cave with Dano and Dimitri. Will post pictures if I can find them.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 8, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
I have a few memories.

I have lots more, but I'm getting bored.

Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 8, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
[photoid=162913]
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 9, 2010 - 09:58am PT
Blitzo,
awesome pictures my man!
keep em rolling..
ks

Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jul 9, 2010 - 10:03am PT
paul crawford's hero crown is absent everytime i see him soaking up the weak winter sun outside the coffee shop.

but hero status is his.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 9, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
Okay, I was inspired. Anyone one to take a day to check
out Indian Rock with me- via the Fallen Leaf Lake trailhead?
Weather looks good for the next week, chance to escape
the heat. PM me and let's go.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 9, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
Here's the Indian Rock description:

Weschrist- Hou about you, game?

The approach is only an hour, piece of cake.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jul 9, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
Footloose-

that looks like rick Piggot.

Silver-

Jim posts her quite often. He probably is following this thread, although he has summers off he might be out roadtripping!

take care
dave
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 9, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
"You can get very into the gear when in that state of mind, I had to encourage Jim to put it in the crack instead of just playing with it"
LOL
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jul 9, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
Silver-

check your e-mail.

take care
dave
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jul 9, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
Thanks for the well wishes, Dan. I am healing but it is going to take awhile, both mentally and physically. glad to hear that you are still so active in the canyon. You are doing great work up there and I know that the few people who "get it" appreciate the revival that has begun.

take care
dave
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 10, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
Yeah Ron, The Kneeon photo was in Sumner's 1980 guide book.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 10, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
[photo
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 10, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
The rock at Prison Hill is like iron. It's like the rock at New Jack City. What is it?
matt morgan

Trad climber
carson city, nevada
Jul 10, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
Ron,

Is that the same Zubbie who at one time owned Spooner Mountain Sports in Carson... at the end of town near the junction to Tahoe? Because I learned to climb with Zubbie and your discription of the panic run out on a #1 stopper fits... I remember going to do my first baby offwith with Zubbie at Lovers, Bookmark, and Zubbie forgot his belay device... his response "It's cool, I'll just put you on hip belay bro, people have been hip belaying for years." Not quite the response I expected but, hey, it was Zubbie... If it's the same Zubbie, I've got stories, upon stories, especially since I was a noob... sometimes I'm suprised I survied. : )

Matt
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 10, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
I still hip belay someone following, it's much faster than a device.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 11, 2010 - 12:36am PT
Here's Indian Rock, near Lake Tahoe, today-
Another angle:
Lots of rock. Kinda reminded me of Woodfords Canyon.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 11, 2010 - 12:53am PT
Yeah. I actually climbed up it through the terraces and topped out. The pictures were taken around back on the descent to the West.

Sounds like the GF is being groomed for the sport / team. Cool.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 12, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
"waiting in line to climb is better than work..."
Well said, Chim. Esp if it is the Leap.



Indeed, I haven't had any specific "project" at the Leap
in at least five years, so if there were a "wait" on one route, I
would just hit up another. It's never once been a problem.
I like days it's empty, I like days East Wall is chockful
of people-energy, too. It's all good.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 12, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Ron wrote-
"Solitude was always a major draw for me."

I get that, too.

Fine poetry. :)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 12, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
Ron- So is that an overhanging OW next to the 5.12a LedZep
in the first photo? If so any good?

Excellent drawings, too.

EDIT TO ADD: I'll drive by tomorrow and check it out.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
The Leaps not a crowded as everyone makes it out to be. Problem is everyone has a particular route they want to do, and so wait in line when they could just climb the route next door.

A good example, I was able to climb 11 routes (yes routes, not pitches) on East wall in just under nine hours and only passed one party on bushy ledge a couple years ago. This was on a very busy Saturday in peak season.
Just gotta keep your options open and don't "expect" to jump on anything in particular. (end spray)


There's plenty of places to find total solitude in the Tahoe area. In fact, most places are usually pretty empty. Cal domes being one of the best for pure cracks and gnarly face. Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun is probably one of the best face routes around, along side Beacons From Mars. Silk Road (high times) linked up with the Karakorum Highway via the Lightning Bolt cracks is another gem checking in at around 15 pitches that is longer, slightly easier but equally classic as Astroman.

Then you have Bear River Domes. Monster slab routes, cracks tons of rarely explored rock and never a sole around.
Woodfords of course, which is 1000 or so routes, mostly fairly short but with as much as the approach inconveniences the routes make up for in conveniences as they're easy to jump around on. Should probably explore around that place myself more often.

Theirs Luther, generally no one up there.
Wrights Lake, Echo Lakes, Indian Rock as mentioned above, Lions Creek, Shakespeare Rock. Lets not forget Eagle Rock. 400+ ft of vertical granite featuring discontinuous cracks speckled with dikes, pockets, knobs and slopers. The kind of place you go to when you want to be humbled or are seeking a near death experience.

Of course, there's more up north, out east and dotted in between, I'm just sayin. People should poke they're nose around the corner more often.

Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
Sal, have you tried OOTD yet? I bet you have.
When you're in the area, let me know, maybe I could
show you a couple. Perhaps in exchange for some
Cal Dome experience.



EDIT TO ADD Imagine if Lovers Leap were situated where
Indian Rock is but with its same NW orientation; imagine the view
over Fallen Leaf Lake and Tahoe. That would be unbeatable,
out of this world.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
Haven't climbed One Of These Days yet, don't know why. My buddy Crawford was telling me recently about some routes he did up there and said it was one of the best .10 cracks in Tahoe.

One of the best .10 cracks in Tahoe is a bold statement. Coming from Crawford puts it in a prestigious class in my book.




Ron: that first clips a doosey, and the second, and the third and...

... then, on the second pitch, it starts to get run out, ha!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Jul 13, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
Back when Geritol was 2 bits of course.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 14, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
Nice shots. Aloha always looks so
surreal from up above on the West.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 14, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
Hey anyones hear from Mark "Raja" Rogers? I'd like to get in touch.


Looks like a Renaissance in hard climbing is going on, I've been watching the scene out there from afar, all those things we were like "Gill could do" or later "Sharma could" are being done! Prison Hill is seeing love, whooo! We always knew that rock was killer, still curious as to the geology...pockets and all.


http://jessebonin.blogspot.com/


Future Present is visible from the road if it is where I think it is. For that matter, so is the problem on bottom left front page. How many thousands of times did I cruise past those...knowing... "I could grasp the holds, but not the problem."

Crazy 88's

Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 14, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
Ron- I was up Woodfords today. It pains me to say
I could not find your Lost Cabin crag. I found the creek,
tracked up it on the east side to no avail. Whasup,
is it THAT small, 40', kinda like Prison Hill? LOL!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 14, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
"well the roundish face that faces thi highway is in view of the highway kinda hard to miss!"

And I'm usually good with a map! Ah, I know, I'll post a topo, maybe you could pinpoint it on there for me. Anyways, I found both side roads, south side, traveled both to their ends, no cabins or vestiges of any. The creek might have been rechanneled though- as your map shows it intersects with 88 perpendicular (EDIT: no it doesn't) whereas now it parallels 88 for 100 yards plus or so. Yes, I did have your fine drawing with me, too! LOL!


I won't be so hurried next time.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 14, 2010 - 10:57pm PT
Okay, roger that. I did travel that "flaccid pecker" road you have drawn on your map (caddycornered to the bridge on the North side) to its end. Thanks, Ron, I'll find it next time. Guess I was too rushed to get back to OOTD Buttress as my turn was coming up. Thanks.

P.S. Didn't see remains of any cabins out there. Must've been exciting to have those BITD.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 17, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
heres a fresh scan..
first lead of bell bottom blues, 1985.
Steve Schneider and i just scored lowe ball nuts and put them to use on this donner classic..



the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 17, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
chim chim, those knobs are still glued on? crazy.
that was 1986 when i brought a box full of meadows knobs to breckenridge and got the glue on!
...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 18, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
Footloose. Where you looking for led zep arete?
If so I can show you the way....missing top 2 or three bolts but it looks like a cool climb.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 18, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
Ron
I counted 3 bolts from the ground up and was wondering wtf.... Your anchor is still there. Took a picture of it cause it was a "little interesting". If I head there I can replace the bolts....hell Im off tomorrow if you want to?
Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 18, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
No problem Ron we will hook up sometime soon. I will put it on my project list to replace those.... Just realized I have a Burningman Meeting tomorrow anyway.
Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 18, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
Ron
If you want the hangers to match I will take you up on that.....
As far as the anchor.....mmmm
Very creative use of chain.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 18, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
I hate the term. Life is short- the "golden age" is the one you're in.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 19, 2010 - 09:04am PT
I think of Tahoe as going through a 'platinum age' currently, to call some of the incredible stuff going down as gold seems "undervalued".

Mebbe it's a tarnished by blaggo thing, "I got this thing, and it's .------. golden."

I've said the same about the Valley, i.e., "it goes boys"... magic mushroom free? zodiac? mescalito in the works? whodathunk?

The couple times I did Zod, i pondered the "freebility"...someday, I thought...Little did I know it would be within a decade(ish). Now, mescalito? There were sections I just couldn't fathom even for the future....

Still, I hear where you come from...might even dust off teh scanner for "gold".
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jul 23, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
Dick Richardson on Spacewalk '79ish


Kurt Smith ffa attempt of Wolf crack sans bolts...or belay for that matter...nice hip belay Skippy!


Manic Depression 1985


Steve Schnieder ffa Bell Bottom blues


School Rock overhangs 5.10a


Karls Overhang 1983










KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jul 23, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
No Ron, your pics kick butt...keep 'em coming
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 30, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
Whoaaa
Nice ice Ron....Ill need some directions to that!!!
Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 30, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
Thanks Ron
Wish I would have known about it when it was 20 below this winter.....couldnt find anyone to do One of these days falls this winter either anyway.

Havnt done the Grover rock yet. Ill keep it on my "wish list"
Did you drop those hangers off at the Rage? Have a little time off this week to maybe replace those....
Shawn
matt morgan

Trad climber
carson city, nevada
Aug 1, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
Ron,

I have done 'the wall' awsome climb! Also enjoyed the link up of 'women of plantet latex' and 'grip master.' Thought it was cool that the first bolt had the route name, grade, and f.a. etched onto the bolt...

Matt
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 3, 2010 - 12:18am PT
Thanks for the bag ron.....picked it up today. Will use it wisely. Great pics of iron butte by the way. Wanted to climb the wall but no anchors on top. (bashed in) May head out this winter and do a little work there and fix it up a little......love projects. PM if you are heading out to Woodfords some time. Im off Friday

Look familiar? Sucks they tore it down
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 4, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
Ron
Thats some crazy "nut" stacking....
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 4, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
Ron
Thats some crazy stacking.....did you try it?
oldcragster

Gym climber
WA
Aug 5, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
Ron, I had forgotten all about that letter till I saw it just now. Thanks for sharing. I'm sure I don't have a copy. The 'taco' comes thru again. I don't get a lot of time to visit but today I saw that tr on Peter up bolting on Half Dome, replacing the old ones, and in summer heat too!

Other posts lately have me reminiscing. Saw photos of Mt. Sill, Swiss Arete. Climbed that in '80 or so, but my first serious climbing trip into the Sierras was with my 15 year old brother in August 1966, a month before joining the Air Force. We climbed the face left of the descent and watched Palisade School of Mountaineering guides and clients climb the Swiss Arete from our view already on the summit. I took slides, and these along with so many others I wish I still had, I burned years ago. Interestingly, because of the influence of the book I quoted in that letter you scanned...all the Zen thing of getting rid of attachments. What an idiot I was for doing that...of course the daily smoking of pot may have had an influence as well. Who knows, but I deeply regret not having so many memories on film. Don't mean to regress.

On a positive note, I recently heard from an old friend, Mark Haymond, not seen or heard from for 40 years, because of the posts here. Very cool! I'll try and come up with some yarns about Tahoe climbing soon Gene Drake
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 5, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
Do all retired California mailmen got to Washington? or just the ones who were good?
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Aug 5, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
Gene Drake!

We miss you down here in Truckee.

Probably not memorable for you but I bought my first real rock shoes from you my first few days in town. I still have them, a pink pair of Scarpas.

You also taught my wife Sara to climb and I thank you for that, she's been one of my best partners on the rock.

Hope all is well in Wa. tell Cindy hello

James Colborn
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 5, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
Man I spent some time climbing with Paul Crafton in the 80's. What ever happened to Tom Sullivan from Bob's Alpine on Stewart Street. I bought my first Smc Gear and forrest products there in 77'.
What about Gordon the brick layer....There are so many great and unique individuals responsible for the climbing scene in the Tahoe area it could warrant a Sundance movie.
Fortunate to have experienced the "real" climbers and regret the current attitudes.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 5, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
Paul used to talk about belays on inverted LA's on aid routes at Shakespeare,,,,,
His Hat blew of on the Hogsback and he couldn't find it. I told him if we did another route I'd get his Hat( I already knew where it was), So I drug his ass up Red's Delight...Great Day and got his Hat back for him....
One time we went "dancing",(Big in the late 80's) in Reno, Paul and I won 1st and second place( with an assortment of different female dance partners) but he was capable of keeping me from some disease ridden snapper and got my Arse home safe. I love that man and hope all is well with him.
The first time I ran into Dan O ,Mikey I and I were doing laps on a peg board up clear creek in 82'...On our way home we see some guy hanging off (with one hand), a route at clearcreek (Dinosaur)...we thought he might need a rescue..HAHAHa. Mike and him went to the valley shortly after that.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 9, 2010 - 09:09pm PT
Wow Ron, you had me thinking I might have retro'd a route there on Hogsback by accident. Upon closer inspection it turns out a buddy and I did a variation to your furthest left penciled in route. We did find two pins in a crack next to each other just above the ledge with the bushes low on the wall. I figured it must have been a belay for an alternate start to Reds, (which we promptly climbed). This is where our two routes combined for about 70ft or so before going their separate ways. We also did a more direct start to that first belay ledge. A couple bolts were placed in the roof section of our route, but thankfully that is just beyond where the two routes separated which is on what I believe is new ground.

Our route "Spam Sandwich, 5.8R" is shown in Red.

There is another route just to the left of my route evidenced by a pin in a shallow left facing corner about 15ft right of Knapsack. It's shown in Green but I have no idea where it started from. It's about 5.7 and has really good gear the whole way. F.A. unknown.


426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Aug 16, 2010 - 09:03am PT
Neat shot. You'd get a kick out of the T-ton placements I've made in the very weird features at T-wall and Sunset.

Lucky #7, looks close to the same one you've got a shot of...
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Aug 24, 2010 - 11:33am PT
That picture of Indian head looks like the crag on Wolf Creek Road. How many routes did you put up there, I semm to remember 5 or 6 and they looked hard.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Aug 24, 2010 - 11:49am PT
I guess the easier routes were on either side of the cave.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Aug 24, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Nice Dano shots Ron!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 25, 2010 - 02:41am PT
LIghtning dream arete......Just looking at that route is amazing. A lot of work has gone into routes to the right of it. Way above my ability but damn nice to dream about it.....
The other climbs on the north face are freaking amazing as well.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Aug 25, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
So all the West Facing overhung wall from hell is Sector 20? That place in itself would get crowds there if more "elite" climbers knew about it.
Beers on me when I get back from burningman.....
Shawn
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Aug 29, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
Acrooss the street (hwy 89) from that, Ron, I spied a nice distinct formation on a hillside. Maybe one pitch at best. Looked cool though. Know what it is?

If you pull into the gas station there and look back at 89, you can see it up on the hill.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Aug 29, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
Somewhere around here I have a zillion pics of climbing around the tahoe area, from 1995 - 1999. They're all actual photos that need to be scanned.

Most of them are bouldering in Bliss State Park (almost identical granite to Buttermilks), which was just down the road 15 mins from where I used to live. Most days it was just me and maybe a couple other friends. Now I'm told it's gotten quite popular.

One of the Hatchett bros still lives in the area and has been opening new bouldering spots all over. He gave me info on finding one of them, up behind the landfill on the way to Truckee. Went once and didn't quite find anything too awesome, but found some pretty decent welded tuff rocks similar to the Old County boulders (another popular hang).

The Lycra Eliminator boulder (actually a TR of 5 pretty stout overhanging routes) is a forgotten classic spot. I have pics of that place too somewhere.

I miss that place.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Aug 29, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
Well, I moved away 11 years ago, so I've only *heard* that Bliss has gotten popular. Back then, seeing anyone at all besides the group you came with was very uncommon, so the fact you saw anyone at all means something.

Anyway, that asteroid problem is something else, eh? Took me a little while to get it. Tricky heel lock right foot, then hold a grim finger tip sloper pinch right hand and cross over left. Taller climbers could probably just bump the right hand again. Wait until late in the day when the sun has gone behing the mountains to the west, being the key beta :)

We used to call that line "The Lobster" and "Vomit Comet". Long after the fact, someone told me it got a V7 grade, which I have a hard time believing. [spray] I've managed a handful of problems confirmed at that grade at Hueco and here in Utah and they seemed quite a lot harder [/spray]. I think V5+ is probably more accurate.

Lycra Eliminator is in the old yellow tahoe guidebook. It is in the Incline Village area, around the ski area IIRC. It's right among a cluster of houses. One great big very overhanging face. It has TR anchors at the top, which you will want to make use of, as a fall from anywhere would be grim. Easiest thing on it is 5.12 / V5.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Aug 29, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
"bjj, scan those puppies in and post em up!;-)"

I will. Right now I am just waiting for a partner to get here. I'm getting up off the couch for the first time in 7+ years. Just got back from REI with a shiny new pair of moccasyms and a chalkbag. Sold all my gear years ago, when I thought I was done climbing for good. Should have known better ;:

Wish me luck. If I don't hurt anything, I'll consider the day a success.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Aug 29, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
"Yeah, ratings in these parts are wonky for sure. I do enjoy the lack of crowds, but certainly miss having a solid crew to help with the psyche."

Where else do you boulder at? Our usual spots were Bliss, Old County, Pie Shop and Echo View Estates. Donner was a bit of a haul from the West Shore, and usually if we were going there it was to put on a rope. I moved away before many of the newer areas got opened. I hear there's some good stuff now.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 30, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
Where is fort sage? I'm Knott a big boulderer anymore but am curious. My ankles and Tendons have been used thoroughly.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Sep 8, 2010 - 03:14am PT

Obscure spire........where is it???????
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Sep 8, 2010 - 08:59am PT
Is it "temperature dependent"?
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Sep 9, 2010 - 03:47am PT
Closer to Reno......not TD*
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Sep 14, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
What ever happened to Steve Miller?


"Don't tell me! We did that route years ago".



Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Sep 16, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
We used to go go out soloing and bouldering at the Pie Shop all the time and party boldly!
Last time I saw Miller, he was headed up to Wenatchee, Washington. Never heard from him again.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 22, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
Whenever the term "golden age" is used about a place, I think that the area is being prepared for the dustbin of history.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Nov 4, 2010 - 03:41am PT
^^^^^
Yeah, no shit!

I wish Jay Smith visited these forums from time to time.

Would love to pick that guys brain.
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Nov 22, 2010 - 01:20am PT
Hey Ron - great thread, maybe should be the glory days of Tahoe - at least in our own minds.

Here are some photos I thought I would throw out there. I'll start digging for more.
Snowshed was our bouldering area and as noted below we considered the first ascents as the first top rope ascent. Some of my biggest falls were top roping when Hudon was belaying! And he lowered me so fast to the ground I often thought the top anchors had pulled (yes we even rigged them ourselves).
Max

Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Nov 22, 2010 - 01:37am PT
Hey Welcome Max!

Great photos!

Its been too long since we have crossed paths, I have to come over to Spooner and ski your great trails.

I live at Serene Lakes and am climbing at Donner all the time, though a bit less this year due to a knee injury.

Look me up if you ever come up to the summit.

Peter
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Nov 22, 2010 - 03:06am PT
No sh#t, Max Jones chimes in.

Bet you never thought even to this day you'd have fans in the Tahoe area who admire what you and Mark did back in the day.

Hell, my first day on this earth hadn't even began before you guys freed Hookers. More stories and pics please. Woot!!!
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Nov 23, 2010 - 12:43am PT
Found a photo of Hud leading Lightning bolt roof. Look close Tube Chalks! Probably the only one ever to actually use the things. Mainly they just made a loud enough noise so you knew the fell out of the crack.
And guidebook additions for Snowshed.


Blowups happen was me. I seem to remember that it was a bit dicy. Little knobs ready to pop. Part of the never ending search to find something new to do.


I'll keep watching for the Reno sessions and try to make it. Or we have good beer here in Carson too!





Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Nov 23, 2010 - 08:35am PT
Hey Max, good to see you posting here - and thanks for the early Donner memories. Planning to come down and ride your fine MTB trails again in July.

Hope all is well!

Eric Barrett
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 23, 2010 - 09:37pm PT
Jones! Yikes! What's the world coming to!

Max on Freeblast in 1977, maybe 78.




Ropeboy

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 23, 2010 - 09:48pm PT
I got to close a big circle this year. The circle started when my young friends and I were camping in the woods below Lovers Leap in 1969. Two climbers stopped by the fire. Among other chit chat it came out that they had just done Haystack, a 5.8 route. The younger climber had led it and.... this....this fifty year old guy with white hair had followed it! I was impressed. My only climbing contacts were 20 somethings and I had never heard of an old person still being able to climb. Amazing. It stuck in my mind.
We came back later that season and did The Line as our first 5.9 climb. I got a favorite shot of one of my friends back then.
http://www.summitpost.org/the-line-1969/193739/c-161272 It was an age of mostly pitons, a few nuts, swami belts, and there was no guide book yet. As the decades and jobs and children came along I learned that there were plenty of old people climbing. There always were, I just did not know it back then as a newbie. That was forty one years ago. A lot has changed.
OK, my turn. I always had a day dream that I could go back when I got to be fifty and do the same thing. But for various weak reasons I never followed through.
This year I had the great misfortune to start climbing with a younger man who was strong, ambitious, and worst of all, tireless. He choose 5.8 routes with a few 5.9s thrown in and we climbed mostly at Joshua Tree and the Valley. He was doing the hard leads and I was following most of the time. He would wear me out with long climbing days, but hey, it was the right recipe for me, and this year was my chance to snap my suspenders in self imagined pride. I was 66 and at last it was my turn to be that old guy. When we planned a trip to the Leap I made sure we choose Haystack as our first climb. He led again and I was able to pull the roof smoothly because I had done it so many times in my youth. So satisfying, and THE DEED WAS DONE. This circle in my climbing career was closed. We did The Line the next day and that was a hoot too but it did not have the same charm for me. I have done lots of climbs but doing Haystack again is going to be one of my favorite memories. Nostalgia is sweet. Snap, snap.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 23, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
Max on Hookers.

We nailed the route to pre-place the gear, the crux was done off a tied off stack of a Lost Arrow and knifeblade. The thing wouldn't take nuts and you couldn't just go up and drill bolts on an established route back then. We didn't really care about the aid-to-place-free climbing- pro thing, we were just f*#king around.

Max, we went down there, worked the route and led and followed it free that same day.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 24, 2010 - 11:32am PT
Yeah, we laugh now that our past sandbags are coming back to haunt us!
crawdaddy

Trad climber
California
Nov 28, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
To bad about Tapestry...great climb.
Paul Crawford
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Dec 28, 2010 - 01:41am PT
Nice one Ron,

Pauls still ripped and cranking 5.13, always ground up and always placing his own gear. None of that sissy pre placed nonsense.


Say hello to his latest dog, the always playful Cedar.

crawdaddy

Trad climber
California
Dec 29, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
Nice photo Sal...just waiting for a weather break.
Happy Holidays to All, Paul, Ella and Cedar
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jan 4, 2011 - 11:44am PT
crawdaddy i hope you don't mind,
but this shot of you onsighting the first ascent of my oak tree
ground up is alwright.

Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 29, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
OT, but Wes, there's the community you're looking for in Truckee. Takes a little bit to meet the right folks, but it's there and very strong.
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Jan 29, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
I have been in South Lake since '96 and it has steadily evolved, albeit at sloth's pace. I am concvinced it will be the mountain town of dreams by the time I am Fred Becky's age, but in the meantime, the topography is incredible for year 'round mountain fun whether skiing, climbing, mountain biking, or hanging out on sandy beaches. If only Truckee were at this end of the lake. I can testify that there is a strong climbing community here. There always has been, but there is a new generation with rootsy ethics climbing hard, traditional, obscure, FA's, and with very kind demeanor. Maybe the bad economy has made some folks who would otherwise be chasing the dollar bill come realize that there is larger life pay off in a life lived in the mountains. Now if only somebody with wealth and vision would buy up Meyers and turn it into the downtown it could be....any takers?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jan 29, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
Manimal, have you been to Woodfords Canyon?

Oh, is that you in your avatar photo. Was just wonderin'.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 29, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
I only lived in Meyers for a year and left because we had the same problems with finding a good community. D-Sky was fun, but it's a lot of the same every time we went.

Hence the move back to Truckee.
I'd choose Reno over SLT, never thought I'd say that!

And no, Burger Me opened literally the week after I left town.

It's been two years and I still love it like it's my home.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jan 29, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
Wes, you want to meet up at High Altitude Fitness this
afternoon? It's a drive for you but I can give you a couple
of hours workout.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 29, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
The pizza joint south of Cave Rock (really Z Cove) is still making some tasty pies!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jan 29, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
Be nice, now, that's an incredible photo.


The pizza joint south of Cave Rock (really Z Cove) is still making some tasty pies!

Yeah. Wes could stop in there on the way back from a good workout
at Incline. If he's still at his keyboard, he'll see this and respond.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 29, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
OK, back OT. Let's hear some Shakespeare Rock stories!
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 29, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
Yeah, stories like that.

Thanks, got more?
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 29, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
OK, here's a question.

As you're driving past the casinos headed to the Kingsbury turnoff, you see a bunch of cliffs up on the hill.

What are they?

Edit;From a distance they look like Squaw tram face kitty litter, but I'd love to hear about them.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
There are some sport climbs up there that are kind of fun. Cant remember the name of the area though. Not a destination but a cool place to hang for the day.
Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 29, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
Ron
Has anyone climbed Shakespeare rocks ice smear that you know of?
Shawn
Spike Flavis

Trad climber
Truckee California
Jan 30, 2011 - 12:10am PT
I also started climbing @ Donner Summit in the early '80. I climbed with the same crew Kurt mentioned + dudes like Tim Maas, Bill Anderson, "hippie" Bruce Ericson, Hans Standteiner and Gene Drake. Ken Ariza was my main partner my first few years. I remember a lot of us left to climb in J-tree and the Valley and when we came back it was the older guys (some from Reno) who started rap bolting. Remember that scene? YIKES! I still live in Truckee and enjoy climbing @ Donner-just not at Snowshed on the weekends! Thanks for the cool thread, Bob Baldwin? I haven't heard that name in long time. thanks, Mike Davis
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 30, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
I've seen bolts on the face of Eagle Rock. Up top, I bouldered around and pulled every other hold off of the rock. Uber choss.

If we're talking lesser climbed areas, has anyone climbed the sport routes on Donner Peak? There's also a cool looking spot just down the ridge toward the lake.

I've always just bouldered in the alcove and the slot (my names, not sure if there are official names).
Good times camping and scrambling up there.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Jan 30, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
"If we're talking lesser climbed areas, has anyone climbed the sport routes on Donner Peak? There's also a cool looking spot just down the ridge toward the lake."

The routes on Donner Peak, as well as all the other obscure routes in the region, will be in the new guidebook. (In stores before the snow melts up there)

Lots of interesting history about the "Golden Age" of Tahoe is included as well.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:38am PT
Thanks Ron. I Drive by that damn thing almost everyday and just see the ice come and go. Not sure I want to ground up that bitch on ice though.
How tall is the ole guy? Would love to rap in on it and check the ice status when it looks "thick"

Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
Thanks ron
No bosching though. Don't want to start some damn controversy of ethics of climbing and rap bolting a 350 foot shitty ice climb. Hahahaha. Well maybe I will then. 
And I will do it wearing Lycra as the first ascentionist probably did.
Shawn
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
Don't forget the ghetto blaster with Slayer at full volume, Shawn.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
Would have to go with metallica to keep with some route names there but I will do it in total GNAR fashion!!!!!!
Cuz I'm gonna f*#king crush this route.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
Don't forget to call your Mom mid route.
Mega GNAR points.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
Shakespeare rock isnt worth the bolts unless you just gotta get an FA in the book.

Eagle rock is ok, nobody climbs it, for a reason. Its possible, theres bolts down low, like 5.10ish, and the upper portion has a 12 I believe, but the constant stream of tourists and such usually makes for lots of rocks coming down onto you. Why climb that hunk of crap when you can climb something good?
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
Lay off the Haterade, BS, we're just shooting the sh#t. :)
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
I love choss as much as the next idiot, but Shakespeare rock never took off for several reasons. If you must bolt it, go ahead, have fun. Come on into an area you don't live in and blast in a bunch of unnecessary bolts. Get your name in that book, there's still time. Go put up a crappy choss route that no one cares about but you. There's lots of FA's to be done that aren't right next to the road anyway, go look around. You guys asked, I answered. Get bent or stop asking if you don't like the answers.

Lighten up, Francis. Trade you my 'haterade' for some vagisil. Apply liberally.

Im just shooting the sh#t too, but most ST folks seem to not be any fun.

Since you dont seem to like my answers, go climb the bolts at Eagle Rock on a saturday without a helmet.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
BS

I was freakin kidding about putting any bolts on Shakespear. And I live here and am very active in replacing old shitty bolts around the area. Soooooo Im going to go have fun without my helmet now......

Wow.....cant a guy kid around about wearing lycra and holding on to his drill anymore!!!!!

Shawn
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
BS, relax man. We're just talking about climbing, OK?

Edit; I lived in the Basin for a decade. Hooosfravaaahhh...
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
Then watch your snippy comments like haterade when someone simply answers one of your questions (ie eagle rock). Some of us might call you out on them. Dunno where you got haterness out of my mega-profound post...

The rest of you are cool.

I could give two shits if someone wants to rail bolts up shakespeare rock.

Thanks for replacing local bolts.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
I could be a jerk, but,

OK.

Your comments struck me as antagonistic, but if they were truly altruistic, I'll drop it.

Brandon Mayo-

Edit;I didn't ask about Eagle Rock, I said it was choss, dude.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
I know BRB well enough to know he was just kidding about bolts on
shakespeare, and he has done tons of work to maintain and fix older routes.

I should know by the amount of bolting hardware he used to purchase from me.

by the way BRB how was Ouray?? did you sharpen my cramps?? ha ha

call me for a garage session!!

take care
dave

BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
Its the internet. None are more serious.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
All good my local climbing bro's. We are all friends again. Ouray was great. Wish I was back there and thanks again for the crampons. On a side note.
Was at GONI boulders tonight and someone is setting coyote traps out there. My pup got caught in one. F*#KING as#@&%e!!!!!
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
like Wes said thanks for the warning shawn!!!

there is way too much activity in that area too have that going on. many different user groups are out there all the time.

take care
dave
tallguy

Trad climber
eastside
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
As of Sunday, 1/30, numerous coyote traps also are in place at the Purgatory boulders too.. some directly under multi-starred V3 and V4 climbs.. Take care.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
hey stink-

they are referred to as the washoe boulders in cmacs bouldering guide. most of us call them the gonies or goni boulders.

In case you don't have the book they are in north carson off of college parkway go left at Goni road, go to the end turn right, follow to the obvious cinder mine.

take care
dave

p.s. when those cinder solpes get a foot of snow or more, you can slide down them on your bouldering pad, assuming you have consumed enough libations, we call it "padder x". watch out though that sagebrush comes real quick!!!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 31, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
Hearing my little girl yelp in pain and biting at the chain and her own paw was absolutely horrible. She bit me and my gal as we tried to get it off. I cant imaging any animal caught like that for very long.
She's doing ok now but everyone climbing thought I was beating my dog she was crying so loud............
Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 1, 2011 - 11:38am PT
Unfortunately it's on public land and nothing to be done. I called ndow. There are a couple
Of signs you pass stating it's public land. My girls doing ok so I'm not going to pursue it further. Yesterday may have been different. It's the first time in three years that my gfriend has ever seen me angry (this is an understatement)

Ron On a climbing note. If you are at American flats and look west onto the hillside there is a pretty big chunk of stone on it. Looks like it is on the eastern slope of "monitor" peak
Any beta?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Feb 1, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
I was a river guide in the early to mid 80's near Tahoe and used to make frequent trips to Lovers Leap, Donner Summit. I climbed with a guy named Sean Frazier or Frasier. Does that name ring a bel? He lived in Squaw.
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Feb 1, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
Anyone in to doing a trap clean-up day in Nevada?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 1, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
I agree with Ron. Please no more on the traps, photos etc. Start a new thread and get LEB involved. I just wanted to bring it to local attention. Its hard enough seeing my own dog in one and Im trying to forget it. Had nightmares about it last night and dont need to see anymore photos about it. Please.

Thanks
Shawn

Ron I may check that crop out when the snow melts and report up.

BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Mar 11, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
Nice Ron. Is there anything around here you havnt done
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
Anchors on those or just walk off?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
Have to check em out. May hit that dsaur wednesday...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
Nice ole stories. It is crazy how things can change so quickly with a pile o rocks. It brings people together to B.S. and slow down a little. Something that a lot of people need to do....including myself
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
Hogsback?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
Took me about a minute to recognize the angle of the rock and "texture" Post another stumper.

Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
You got me. But I can tell you the pic on the right is from around 84-88.....cause Bon Jovi Rocked !!!!!!!!!

I can see we are both working hard today!!!!!!!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Apr 11, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
Another trip down memory lane.....early to mid eighties














KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Apr 11, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
Thanks Ron, this is a great thread. Hudon and Jones were the cutting edge guys back then and i'd love to see more of there stuff.

Most of the time we didn't have a camera out there. For one, I remember the first time Roland Arsons visited Donner Summit and on sight soloed most of the 5.10's at Snowshed's.......dosing no less.

Kurt and JB did some amazing stuff that eluded documentation. There has got to be more stuff out there just sitting and gathering dust.
Brandon-

climber
Done With Tobacco
Apr 11, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
Man, this thread sucks. :)
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
Name this area Ron
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 11, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
Ding ding ding. Across from OOTD. Put up my first routes there in "poor style"...... 3 days of hanging cleaning out cracks before I would even consider putting pro in.

I think there are close to 20 routes that can be found in this pic so far
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Apr 14, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
Been there, and wasn't thinking it looked like an egg............certainly would be a subject of conversation in your backyard.Hmm.....The crack climbs in the slab right next to that bouilder, not in the picture, are a great place to take a first time trad leader to learn to set pro.

Lakeview Slab in Washoe Valley, btw.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 18, 2011 - 12:16am PT
Looks like Bear River Res, but I doubt it.

Al Swanson. One of those names that seems to pop up every once in a while after leading some balls out route and looking in the back of the guidebook to see who did the F.A.

BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Apr 18, 2011 - 02:33am PT
Ron
Found some fixed squares of metal in a couple cracks up by high energy wall. Have one in my "holy sh#t what were they thinking pile" of climbing metal...
Shawn
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Apr 18, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
Echo Lakes shot = Puppet Master (var.)
Check out Smiley's People to the right (overhanging crack) Rasmussen was a beast!
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Apr 18, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
Ron - does ayone climb there anymore? SLAVEDRIVER = a must do!
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Apr 26, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Apr 26, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Apr 26, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Apr 26, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Apr 26, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
adikted

Trad climber
Apr 26, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
^^^^^...I love the TP....gets you psyched for Tahoe climbnig season...
TruckeeTom

Mountain climber
May 18, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Does anyone know the whereabouts or status of Bob Sutton (an author mentioned above). A friend has a pamphlet he published titled "17 Spring Ski Tours of Truckee". (1993, A Broken Arrow publication).

In the pamphlet it mentions that Bob is a 1970 graduate of Truckee High, and that he "works at the Sierra Mountaineer and attends the University of Nevada"
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
May 18, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
Truckeetom
Bobs' family owns a paving co. in town. Try contacting them. Sutton Paving. Last I knew he was working for them.

I worked with Bob when I first moved to town at Sierra Mountaineer. Not sure what's he's up tonow.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Jun 16, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
Seriously . . .

I went to Iron Butte once last year. For all the hype there wasn't much there that looked solid besides what was shown in the pic above and even that only maybe 30 feet of climbing.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jun 23, 2011 - 12:17am PT
what ever happened to greg dexter? His name is on lots of interesting stuff in tahoe. Lot of heavily vegetated stuff too.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 24, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
crack of the 80's. worked that thing to death but never got the send..


solo of sanitation crack, part of kenny and i solo circuit in the early 80's @ donner..
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jun 24, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
Badass Kurt! I never soloed that thing but I did climb up aways and back down after gripping out one afternoon. Great shot man.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jun 24, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
Here's some late 70's shots of Jon Bowlin and I on Eyores Enigma.....I got the easy pitch:

Jon heading up into the squeeze armed with hex's:

Memoriable day a long time ago, he was a great friend and fun guy, we all miss him:

OK here's Jon and someone else you might recognize from the late 70's around Tahoe:
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 24, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
post up some donner action Kenny..
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jun 24, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
Ron,

Here's a character you might recognize, Tim Heydorf. He was a buddy of Ron Mitchell who I think still lives in the Carson Valley, also a friend of TM Herbert's. Tim lived up in Tahoe from the late 60's until the late 70's. I grew up in LA with Tim who knew Ron and TM through Tom Condon's daughter Sue. I'll see Tim in a few weeks down in LA for my 60th! OMG where did the time go?!?

Your's truly from as they say BITD:

Cheer's to the great people we've known as climber's!

Berg Heil,

Charlie D.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 24, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
This is a great thread Ron. I wasn't even born until much of the history in this thread was rapping up (79). It sure is fun to read about what was going on and who was doing what on alot of the routes I've grown to love.

What about probably the biggest force in the Tahoe region BITD. The "been there done that man" Jay Smith?


Keep the stores coming. Dig deep, tell me about routes, F.A. stories... obscurities!

Good things are still happening in the area. We're not all a bunch of over protecting slouches. Woodfords guys are getting it done, and most of it in good style. A bunch of "less than traveled" cliffs are seeing some good action from a growing number of dedicated souls. More and more obscure routes are starting to see regular traffic. Hell, I'm on a mission to climb every route at the leap... EVERY ROUTE! I've bagged just under 70% by my count and most of the ones I've missed are on the central wall.
Some of the best routes in Tahoe NEVER get climbed.

Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jun 25, 2011 - 08:18am PT
No doubt about it, Jay Smith set the bar in Tahoe for many years. Here's a contemporary of the day, Paul Crawford (as in the Smith-Crawford) another Tahoe force and climbing hard to this day:
BTW when I say Paul is climbing hard it's on rock as well as in trees!!! Climb on Paul!
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 25, 2011 - 08:22am PT
jay smith and paul crawford were power house climbers during that era.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jun 25, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
More Donner in the 1980's





Kurt, remember you and I along with Dave H. and Charlie Headley training the 5.10a center Phantom slab route on solo? I recall you having to talk Charlie through the moves as he started wigging out near the top. Talk about young punks on dope lol.....


climbbjj

Social climber
Tahoe
Jun 25, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
undercling thing in that last pic, i do believe.

i consider myself very fortunate to have been living in tahoe when i took u climbing. The highly diverse crags (plus the easy access to yosemit and the east side) really helped the well rounding process.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jun 25, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
Who there?? Bruce?
Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Jul 1, 2011 - 08:52am PT
Nice pic Ron. I went through many of Victor Marcus' chalk bags. They were the standard for years!

Eric Barrett
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jul 1, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Speaking of the man, here he is on Tioga Pass over Memorial Day 2011 weekend enjoying some powder with his friends:
Back in camp with the Great Stein:
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 19, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
Question about an area I drive past all the time...
The big, (usually wet) slabs and walls to the right of highway 50 as you are climbing towards Echo Summit....
Some (most?) of it looks too low angle to be much fun, but there are some walls and maybe some discontinuous sections of slab that look like they could be fun.

Does this area have a name? Is it considered "Lower Flagpole" or something like that? Any routes here?

Just wondering if anyone had knowledge of anything that's ever been done up that way.
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Jul 19, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
I have scrambled that near the top, pretty fun stuff out there, I think the bottom near the road use to be farmed for ice wasn't it?
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Jul 20, 2011 - 11:12am PT
Hmmmm well I can give updates on Dexter and Sumner

Dexter is living in South Tahoe off of Upper Truckee and I bump into him at Kirkwood on a fairly regular basis.

Sumner moved to alaska and is a contractor but lives part time out near Pyramid lake and is still climbing

I am living in G-Ville and still scrambling around in the Sierras

I will post a few more pics in a bit....

No idea what Todd is doing, he moved to Colorado and that was the last heard from
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jul 25, 2011 - 02:07am PT
So Ron,

I finally pulled my skirt up and let my balls drop a little this weekend and sucked it up to successfully climb Dancing Feet on the Hogsback.

Oh my god that Smith is a stud, I did all I could to keep from leaving brown streaks of holy SH#T along the route. That is some serious climbing with serious consequences for sure. The way it went varies slightly from your topo given above. There were only 4 bolts protecting the first pitch which is much different from what's shown in the Carville guide. Anyway, the first pitch worked out to be about 210ft (thank god I had a 70m) and the belay stance was much welcomed.

Anyway, I could spray on but my question to you is: Do you remember there being any pitons protecting the route?

I couldn't help but notice faint pin scars in key spots that would have made the climbing much less heady. I'm thinking Smith and friends had some pins along the ride and removed them after the ascent. If I'd have had some with me you'd have heard that golden ring all the way to Reno. I only ask because if pins were used during the FA, I think they should be permanently replaced. Someone then might actually be suckered into leading this thing more than once every 30 years.

Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jul 25, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
No pins huh? Well, there sure were some definite signs of pins having been placed in key spots at some point. They wouldn't make the route casual by any means, just take the sting out of the last 10ft of runnout before a couple of the bolts.

Anyway, yeah I must have linked the first two. Now that I'm looking at a photo of hogsback I'm thinking there were only three bolts protecting the (my)first pitch. I never entered the Deception corner system at all though I did get really close. Was hard not to just pop over there and slam in some pro.

Here's a crappy topo using your 76 Tahoe guide photo of the line I took.
All bolts have been replaced with bomber stainless steel... thank you to who ever!


mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 26, 2011 - 01:29am PT
Ron/Sal-

The black line to the right of knapsack crack in the photo..What route is that? .9x??

Sal-

When I did the Spam route (Very sporty) we went straight up through that roof , then wandered through where that black line goes then back left through those left trending corners near the top.

What say you guys?

Oh and Sal- nice to see you at the leap when you fired Fantasia! Ha!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 26, 2011 - 02:19am PT
Ron-

The line I mentioned in your photo is between Knapsack crack and Red's Delight.

The photo you posted shows the Knapsack belay tree I believe.

Maybe you got the location a bit off?

I have never heard of the route, very cool share!

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 26, 2011 - 02:31am PT
I have never seen the green guide, that may be the problem?

I only have the carville book and Falcon ( Both of which do not include Billy's Nightmare), and going on memory...

Must Be "Obscure" HAHAH!!

Just like dancin feet, Way bold from what I have seen from adjacent routes.

Thanks Ron for the history, very cool thread.


426

climber
Jul 26, 2011 - 08:56am PT
When led DF (eons ago) I remember the pin scars you speak of; I tried to put the smallest RPs, total chit. They had like 40-60% contact but pysch pro I guess.

I think they either fell out as I climbed by or when I pulled up the rope..pretty sure they fell out before they could be cleaned proper..still had old crappin' bolts at that point, gross...

Same think with the risght side remnant in yose, what I would have given for some pins---u could see the scar but get no modern pro and the runout was pretty massive in my mind.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 26, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
Hey Ron, do you have an accurate topo for what is what on the right side of the Dear John buttress? Kind of confusing over there, with stony god, stony end, stony highway, drug crazed.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Aug 20, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
Some more Tahoe Sierra climbers from BITD:
George Conner climbed Eyeores Enigma every birthday until he "couldn't find willing partners". Here he is armed with tube chocks for the bomb bay doors with Robert Oravetz belaying below:
George a Hootowl and the Ghoulwe's did a number of FA's up at Phantom spires, here's some charactors after the FA of Steppin Stone, 1977 or '78:
George wrote a great piece on the history of Phantom Spires in the Tahoe ST guide describing the rivalry between the Hootowl's and Ghoulwe's reflecting on the fun times and "our day in the sun." Well here's to more days in the sun George, a couple weeks ago in Tuolumne:
Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Aug 20, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
Wow, now there is a blast from the past! Thanks for posting that pic Charlie. George Conner, Dave Stam and I (along with Robert Orevitz, Dave Babich, Jon Bowlin, Kevin Rivett, and a cast of others...) used to hike up to Phantom Spires pretty much every week for several years - starting from the turnout down on Hiway 50. That was long before the road was built that now gets you to within a 5 minute walk. We had a full pin rack, rope and bolt kit stashed up there for several years so we wouldn't have to carry them up every time. There was a lot of unclimbed rock there at that time so we picked some pretty nice plums!

Good memories of that area!

Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 20, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
Knott to be a "party" pooper, but there are some crags up 80 in the TRC that I have been "eyeing" from the road for years that I had hoped would have been in the new guide book.
There appears to be a several hundred foot crag just southeast and about a half mile behind the log house on the river, Has anyone been back there? Is the home owner complacent to climbers in his " backyard"?
Then also on the North side of 80 16miles from reno there is some good looking stuff.
Gimme another beer my ankle feels like Shite.....I dream of climbing but only Kayaking is on this summers agenda.

adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Aug 21, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Mark,

I've been to those places, many years ago. CHOSS-as in barely solidified mud, unfortunately. There is a place right across the freeway from Farad that has some ok, short, rock, ("The Amber Wall") but it did not make it into the new guide because of the extreme likelihood of people knocking rock down onto the freeway from the very loose approach, as well as parking issues. Stomped around a bunch in that canyon in the late 80s/early 90s and everything else I found that looked ok from afar was horrible choss. The higher up you go the worse it becomes.

Edit-However, there is this one, mostly hidden, little cliff that looks like ? that I still have never made it up to on the North Side...hmmm... (but again, all the obvious stuff up high is total garbage)
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Aug 21, 2011 - 03:27pm PT

yup this is the shot of JB soloing it right after just doing 1 run on the tr for the first time.
He tore it up during that week that we went up there together..
1986..
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 21, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
Ron, anyone, what's this?


Picture's taken from mountain ridge east of spooner. Is it worth a looksie?

Here's one more for a little more perspective"


Anybody been there?

A couple more crags in the spooner area:


and a more familiar one:


This is pretty much all the crags in the Spooner area, I think. At least those visible from the Carson Range peaks.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Aug 22, 2011 - 12:57am PT
K...

Though Willoughby posted on a previous thread a link with a tr he did of climbing the first pitch in June 2009, "Donner Summit Recomendations" was the thread with the link. That thing gets so much water in the winter/spring it becomes dirty very quickly. I know others that have done it in the last dozen years as well, and probably others.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 22, 2011 - 02:23am PT
I climbed Inside Out a few weeks ago as an approach to Full Tilt. Thought it was a nice little scruffy chimney.
Full Tilt kicked my ass on the other hand. 5.11a my ass!!! I got it and all, but it took more tries than I care to mention.

Climbed the Imaginary Voyage the day before. Thought nobody probably ever climbs that whole thing. Next day, three parties on it. Guess it sees a steady stream. Looked like it hadn't been climbed in ages.

First time at Black Wall it was. What the place lacks in height it makes up for in quality and stiff grading. Loved it.

Way to many anchors around the place, I'd have to agree. They are on every single route, needed or not. No wonder all the posers from Truckee have been coming over to the South Side and feeling entitled to put anchors on everything.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Aug 22, 2011 - 11:10am PT
donner has the best urban cragging around.
it sure needs help.
the climbers trails there are an erosion sh#t show.
in fifty years of climbing,there has been basically no effort by local climbers to build proper trails, no crag stewardship at all.
lots of bolted anchors for convienence
Dennyg

Trad climber
Westminster Maryland
Sep 28, 2011 - 08:02pm PT

David at Lover's Leap. what is it Bear..?
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Oct 11, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
Bump.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jan 24, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
Wolf Creek Road. Saw it a few times but most routes were out of my leauge.
kennyt

climber
California
Jan 29, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
Ron, I know several people that work for alpine county public works ( road dept) and they assure me they had nothing to do with it. One is also native american and knows nothing of that place being sacred to anyone. they did however move some large boulders to the base to keep people from parking there. Brian Peters is the cheese at the road dept and my neighbor he's a good guy but if you ask him permission to start installing bolts in a boulder that's in the countys right of way i think the obvious answer would be no.That being said I say yes bolting for nostalgic purposes is in order when do we start? We need a gym out here. Kennyt
kennyt

climber
California
Jan 29, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
We should get some beer and a bunch of guys out there and get it done. We could talk rap bolting,retro,bolting, too many bolts, not enough bolts,bouldering pads whatever. The damage has already been done to that chunk of choss whats a few shiny bolts gonna hurt? the place is actually kinda cool.
kennyt

climber
California
Jan 29, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
The Golden age of Markleeville hasn't even happened yet
Jon Taylor

Trad climber
Gardnerville
Apr 3, 2012 - 11:28am PT


Wave Rider not sure when, late 70s/early 80s by the look of the Strawberry Mt. Chalkbag
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Apr 8, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
This Thread is great.... many response's and historical beta.... I was about 4 years behind these innovators but had great drama on all of their achievements. Thanks to all of the Tahoe Achiever's.
The first time I did Cannonball Gully at Donner I froze my arse off and anxiety almost took the best of me and in 78', some local (in Shorts) comes free soloing past us....Life goes on.
climber bob

Social climber
maine
Oct 29, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 5, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
worthy thread Ron.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Aug 30, 2013 - 02:53am PT
Sorry I missed ur post about Blitzo.

I did a bunch of his (with others) routes at Echo Lakes.
Before I met him. And I still like the slithering slit.
BlitZo was all about Tahoe.

All the rtes put up at Echo were by studs!

I wonder what the Collins Brothers are up to?
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Aug 30, 2013 - 03:19am PT
Yea! I think al dude is swimming around down here in the desert somewhere?
Blitzo was jus singing me some of Al's love songs. Seems like yesterday....
But I guess it was last year. God I miss you Billie! Sucks ur not here
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Aug 31, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
To quote an old Babylonian proverb.....sort of...

The gods do not deduct from mans allotted time the hours spent climbing.


Drove by thing the other day on I 80
What a kick ass looking line and great photo.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 24, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Good thread worth bumping.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Dec 24, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Hudson and Jones hands down.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Dec 24, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Or maybe Price for Grand Illusion alone
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 24, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
some prime ball cupping

LOL, yea, i'd rather talk about good climbs than other men who like to get out and climb a ton. My toast to them for putting in time and work in putting up new routes, but most did it for their own fun. Not because they cared because all of us. If they did they wouldn't sandbag and would bolt more often! :)

How about picking the best climb in Tahoe for
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10a
5.10b
5.10c
5.10d
5.11a
5.11b etc

With crowds not being included as a turn off.

Like if you had a visitor from Canada and you could have him do one of those, what would it be? Is there a better 5.7 than Corrugation Corner? Would you choose the Line, Traveler's Buttress, Fear of Flying, Nova Express or something completely different for a 5.9? Is Space walk the best 5.11c in Tahoe? Is One of these days at Woodfords better than Hospital Corner?
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Dec 24, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Lovers Chimney would be hard to beat for the best 5.5.

Exposure, enclosure, good pro, route finding, a good combination of clean rock and dirt to add to the experience. It takes a variety of gear and skills and can give you a taste of most everything you will ever encounter throughout your climbing career. Hard to beat for the grade.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 24, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
I have not climbed much in Tahoe, but here is my little list for Tahoe for now:
5.7 Corrugation Corner
5.8 Haystack
5.9 Scimitar, Eagle Buttress, Traveler's Buttress or The Line at LL, or maybe Nova Express or Fear of Flying. If I had to choose one to take someone outside CA on I would pick the Line probably due to solid granite, sustained climbing, and INCREDIBLE line.
5.10a Hospital Corner
5.10b Surrealistic Pillar Direct
5.10c Candyland
5.10d The Fracture at Sugarloaf
5.11a War of the Walls on Calaveras dome with a 5.11a start variation
5.11b Silk Road on Calaveras Dome
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 24, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
When I did WOTW on Calaveras I linked first 2 pitches (freaking amazing) but took the fingercrack variation. I think the climb is a better candidate for a 10c than 11a since it is more sustained at 5.10. But I have not done any 11a climbs in Tahoe area that I could take anyone on and be proud, so I had to use that to fill up the blank in my list :)
5.8 in Tahoe area is pretty lame, I agree. Well at least ones I have done. Pony Express? Meh Test Piece? 25 ft and not even in Tahoe. Haystack, I guess is pretty cool. Can't come up with anything else that would be a good addition to the list. But again at that grade.
How about more 10d-11a climbs?
I heard North Face at LL is a really good one, and 10ds at Donner WML mentioned are supposed to be really good. You guys should move V8 crack from Cardinal Pinnacle to Tahoe. Would be a nice fit :)
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Jan 15, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
Oooh... are we listing our favorite routes in Tahoe?

I lived there for almost 8 years, and learned to climb while there.

Faves (led them all, either onsight or eventual redpoint):

* The Line (5.9 Lovers)
* Fantasia (5.9 Lovers)
* Mainline (5.11 Lovers)
* Farley (5.9 Sugarloaf)
* The Fracture (10d Sugarloaf)
* Black September (5.9? Donner)
* One Hand Clapping (5.don't remember Donner)
* Farewell to Arms (5.10b Donner)
* Ariel (5.11a Donner)
* Brain Child (5.12b Donner)
* Imaginary Voyage (5.various Donner)
* Warp Factor (5.13a Donner - my first, and one of only two 13's redpoint)
* Space Truckin' (5.10a Eagle Lake)
* Quest for Glory (5.10d Eagle Lake - this is the closest I ever came to getting f**cked up while climbing in Tahoe)
* Buster Brown (5.10b Eagle Lakes)
* Candy Land (5.10c Phantom Spires)
* Space Invaders (5.12a Echo View area)

I could list so many more. I really miss the wide variety. Now I live in Vegas and it's sandstone all the time. Crimp and step up. Crimp and step up. Ok, well actually there's a little more movement variety than that. Slightly... :-)
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 14, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
Loaf: that 11b finger crack flake thing somewhere over by Fracture
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Nov 5, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
Thanks for bump ron

Shawn
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