2nd ascent of the prow-solo


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Big Wall climber
Mar 10, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
nice send!
i have a rope-solo ascent of the Prow in summer of 98'.
fun stuff and solid aid for a day an half.
i was totally stoked when i topped out.

Mar 10, 2010 - 11:53pm PT

Mar 11, 2010 - 12:00am PT
Really great tell, steveA. Thanks for the post.

You went from the new guy nobody would climb with to the dood getting the sh#t done with suitors aplenty. Way to put that in their faces, brother.
Double D

Mar 11, 2010 - 12:00am PT
Wow! That's an impressive ascent & good story. Thanks for posting up!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 11, 2010 - 12:08am PT
Cool story. That's a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig ripper!

1970 sounds better for the 2nd ascent, if it had been done a bunch by spring 1971. The FA was in 5/1969.

As for hardest aid route in the valley at the time, the 1971 Roper guide lists the following as A5s:
 North American Wall
 Swan Slab Aid Traverse
 Washington Column - Great Slab
 Half Dome - Direct NW Face
But of course opinions may vary.

Crestline CA
Mar 11, 2010 - 12:50am PT
Steve... you most likely don't remember me but I was there and watched you do the climb... thought you were in deep shiit when the weather broke... I wondered what ever happened to you after that... thanks for the memories! I might even have a picture of you on the route.. have to dig deep in the files to find out... will let you know..
Tom Evans

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 11, 2010 - 02:56am PT
Hi Steve:

Thanks for the trip report. I was always wondering about that ascent for this reason: The Prow was my second wall climb and we (Richard Harrison, Ricky Accomazzo and I) did this as kids shortly after your solo ascent, long before the climb was bashed out. We heard that you had soloed the thing and I was amazed, it being so steep and exposed and us being so green. You seemed very heroic to us just then. Still do.


. . . not !
Mar 11, 2010 - 03:14am PT
"Swan Slab Aid Traverse"
Has that ever been freeclimbed ?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 11, 2010 - 03:46am PT
> "Swan Slab Aid Traverse"
> Has that ever been freeclimbed ?

The guidebook lists the first pitch free at 5.10+, but still A5 for the rest.
FA by Bridwell in 1968.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 07:01am PT
Largo, Thanks-that is quite a compliment from one of the early Stonemasters.
I will always treasure my times there; as will all climbers who really got into it. I'm curious about one thing when you said that you did an early ascent. Do you remember on the 1st or 2nd pitch, a block of rock, about 1 foot square, standing on it's end, like a balancing pencil. Must of been 8-10 feet long. It was just balanced there ready to come off. I tied it off with a sling, I was so nervous. Was it still there when you did it?
I am retired from teaching but still get out often; sometimes with my son who is in Red Rocks right now. I went back into my favorite place last August-Ambush Peak;in the Wind Rivers, repeating for the 3rd time a route I did with John Bouchard some 17 years ago. My son just posted a route description of it on Mountain Project, ( it's in the East Fork Valley). I did the 2nd ascent with him a 6 years ago. I recommend the place highly. Cheers

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 11, 2010 - 09:09am PT
That's the shit!
Man, I remember the energy and exuberance of youth in the valley. That one puts me right back there.


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 11, 2010 - 09:39am PT
Steve, I was with Dill when you took the whipper. I'll never forget having to eat Spam four nights in a row on the Salathe. You went to the PX in Merced to buy the food and I never checked to see what you bought.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 10:02am PT
Hi Jim,
Sorry about that. Unfortunately, I did the same thing to John Bouchard when I went into the Wind Rivers with him. He never let me forget it! I have reformed my ways and make sure I talk it over with whoever I go on a trip with now.
My son is climbing in RedRocks at this moment. I'll be seeing Mark Richey tomorrow. I'll say hello for you.
There is a local climber here who is heading out to Indian Creek in about a week. He did my kitchen cabinets for me. I know he doesn't have alot of crack experience, ( 22 years old). Would you be interested in showing him around, ( and sandbagging him), which your so good at,ha,ha. I'll get your number from Mark R. and give you a call, just to catch up. Regards, Steve

Trad climber
Mar 11, 2010 - 10:21am PT
Wow, epic story! Thank you.

Mar 11, 2010 - 10:51am PT
2ND 3RD OR WHATEVER, That was out there for back then Steve! Thanks for sharing it.

Trad climber
Mar 11, 2010 - 11:08am PT
Great story Steve, thanks.

Big Wall climber
Mar 11, 2010 - 11:16am PT
What it is with the Prow and soloing it. When I did the south face and looked up and saw the Prow my very first thought was I was going to solo it, it was on of the greatest experiences of my life.

My new goal is to solo elcap. I am drawn to the Muir Wall.

I figure I could do it in Ten Days like Robbins.

I just sold 30,000 dollars in Seismometers so I have all the gear I will need.


Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
Mar 11, 2010 - 11:33am PT
God what an amazing resource this place is!

Thanks for inspiring us all Steve.

Mar 11, 2010 - 12:00pm PT

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 11, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Great story, Steve. I, like several other earlier posters, remember this as being in 1970. I remember Eric Beck climbing it sometime around 1971, and coming back with the report that it was A3, not A4, but that was after Roper's "new" (i.e. green cover) guide came out.

Messages 21 - 40 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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