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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Nov 15, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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BBB - I see no problem here.
Dude uses "easiest" route on the wall for whatever reason? No biggy.
Now, you could take this to be an affront on your masculinity, but who's to say that you judge people based on your being a man or not.
Even if this were a woman who wanted to jump in front of you for whatever reason, you should allow it.
It's no big deal.
Be prepared for the situation to change, but just know that the one who did the jumping may or may not be in full control of themselves, and if circumstances dictate another plan of action may be needed.
It seems like the more I think about it the more ok with it all you/we should be with it.
I think if you had balked, you would have looked like the dick at the crag to the first timer, and the solo dude.
Just think if you had balked and a big tense discussion ensued, which you loose, or look like the dick.. Does noob want to go climbing with you again? Probably not.
Other side: You allow solo to take a crack, he takes a fall, you turn to noob and say "That is the price you pay if you solo and fall", then render the best assistance to your ability to solo guy.
Either way, fostering climbing, and keeping the spirit of climbing going is the bigger picture I like to take.
Cheers
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rectorsquid
climber
Lake Tahoe
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Nov 15, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
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I assumed he would be using a rope
Stupid assumption. If you are concerned with his style, ask about it. I can see it now:
"Can I climb this route while you are getting ready?"
"Well, what do you think about eating Tuna?"
"Huh?"
"Well, I'm going to decide if I give a damn about you climbing this route based on your style and ethics and how you live your life."
"You don't care if I solo and fall on you guys?"
"No. Even with a rope, you might run it out then fall at the first piece of protection and kill someone. How you feel about dolphins is more important."
It's all dangerous and it's all climbing. Don't make any assumption you can't live with.
Dave
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michaeld
Sport climber
Near Tahoe, CA
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Nov 15, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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When a buddy and I decided to free solo some stuff at Lovers Leap on a busy fall day, we actually had to wait at the pitches while other teams were ahead of us. The good part about it was, the person belaying was good entertainment, so was watching a CDF Huey flying around dropping water on a small fire started up on the trail head.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
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Has a route ever in the history of all rock climbing been soloed by someone who didn't eventually tell someone about it? Please tell! I just love all these dropped stories.
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
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Can Free-soloing be a dick move? No. Its just a simple test to
see if you are eligible for The Darwin Award.
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joshklingbeil
Trad climber
Arizona
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Nov 23, 2010 - 11:39am PT
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Since you let him climb it's not a dick move. It's your fault for not asking where his partner/gear was. If you would of hogged the route. Dick move. If he would have fallen. Dick move.Double edge sword.
So when I'm on some over populated Yosemite multipitch and some dude is yelling at his girlfriend belay to belay for not being able to get one of the cams out and I untie from my belay and climb over to help her get the cam out. Dick move or dick mode?
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